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Tasting, September 2003

A collection of tasting notes from a local informal meeting of friends, to look at a variety of wines, young and old. By chance, Alsace turned out to be a popular choice at this tasting. (10/9/03)

Tasting Notes

Tasted in September 2003. Click to locate stockists.

White Wines

Trimbach Gewürztraminer (Alsace) 2000: Served blind. Fairly pale wine. A classic Gewurztraminer nose - floral, heady and perfumed, but with an almost medicinal cough-candy note. On entry it is quite full, a touch fat, with typical perfumed lychee fruit. Where's the acidity? I found none to oppose the sweet richness on the palate. This wine seems completely out of balance. Not a style that suggested Trimbach to me. 12/20

Zind Humbrecht Gewürztraminer Grand Cru Hengst (Alsace) 1998: A good colour. Full, heady, tropical fruit nose, with a touch of bacon fat. This has elegance combined with richness. Full, structured, somewhat earthy on the palate. A smoky, peppery note. Creamy opulence. Low acidity, the norm with Gewurz', but there is some grip. The residual sugar may put some drinkers off. I think it's great - an element of bias no doubt. 17.5/20

Bott-Geyl Gewürztraminer Furstentum Vendange Tardive (Alsace) 1997: A pale wine. The nose gives the impression of a full, sweet, perfumed wine. An impressive, full, almost oily texture on the palate. Matched by very good acidity - especially for this grape. Great perfume. Rich but remains fresh, and a touch of complexity. 18/20

Domaine des Remizières Crozes-Hermitage (Rhône) 1989: Pale yellow. A touch of apply madeirisation. Candied lemon peel, nutty. Attractive, and certainly showing its maturity. Clean entry, balanced, with plenty of interest. Perhaps lacks a little through the midpalate. At peak - if not a little further on. Drink up. 16/20

Grosset Polish Hill Riesling (Clare Valley, SA) 1998: Somewhat greater depth of colour than the previous wine. Turbocharged nose: lemon and lime fruit rubbed on steel. Powerful character, bordering on brutal, which comes through on the palate. Full bodied, steely citrus fruit flavours. Focused with plenty of acidity. What this wine has in power it lacks in finesse or elegance. Not my preferred style. I believe this vintage is atypical of other Polish Hill Rieslings from Grosset. 15.5/20

Mount Pleasant Elizabeth Semillon (Hunter Valley, NSW) 1995: Strange nose here. Some typical Semillon notes of honey and beeswax, but now and again the odd dirty whiff in the background. Corked? Certainly not barn-door. On the palate it has more honey-beeswax notes with citrus fruit, but a muddy, damp note as well. A full, creamy texture, but very dry. Slightly nutty finish. Not right though - most probably very slight cork taint combined with poor storage - as we were told of two bottles this was the one with the least ullage - in an eight year old! Not rated.

Red Wines

Ada Nada Barbaresco Valeirano (Piedmont) 1995: Less intense colour. A tight, closed nose. A full, polyphenol-influenced mouthfeel, with a little oaked, dust-edged fruit. Simple, a touch dilute, tired even. Not well balanced, with quite a bit of tannin to resolve yet. I can't see this wine going anywhere. 13/20

Dalton Cabernet Sauvignon (Upper Galilee, Israel) 1999: Served blind. Quite a stinky nose, with mature vegetal fruit and a confected edge. A similar profile on the palate. Sweet ripe fruit, with a hot climate stewed/confected note. Firm acidity though, and it has balance, although overall it is rustic. Some tannin in the finish. A surprise when the label was revealed. 15/20

Hidden Valley Pinotage (Stellenbosch, South Africa) 1998: A dark and inky wine. What a nose - a concoction of seaweed, farmyard, horses and sewage, all over some ripe blackcurranty fruit. Surely this is Brett contamination? A full, farmyardy, horsy, cheesy palate. Sweet ripe fruit, and packed with tannin through the midpalate onwards. Moderate acidity. Needs time, although those Bretty notes may get worse. 15+/20

Isabel Estate Pinot Noir (Marlborough, NZ) 2000: Good colour, but less dense than the Pinotage. An interesting nose, with sweet, smoky, slightly stewed fruit and a roasted-toasted note. An elegant, finely balanced wine on the palate, with good fruit, although it has that slightly stewed note. Black fruits. Bags of character, texture and weight, and a touch of tannin in the finish. My favourite red of the night by a long shot. 17+/20

Domus Aurea Cabernet Sauvignon (Chile) 1998: A dark, glossy wine. Typically Chilean. Sweet black fruit pastilles or blackcurrant cordial on the nose, with some coconut oak notes. Sweet black fruit on the palate. Round, and intense in it's simplicity. Correct acidity and tannin though. Needs time although I doubt whether it will develop any great interest. 14.5/20

Sweet Wines

Alain Brumont Vendemiaire Octobre (Pacherenc du Vic Bilh, France) 1996: Pale orange hue. Decent honeyed notes and some botrytis on the nose. Sweet, lightly textured, well balanced. Lovely stuff. Simple, but clean and refreshing on the palate. 16.5/20

Rolly Gassmann Gewurztaminer Selection Grains Nobles (Alsace) 1989: A good colour. Typical perfumed lychees on the nose. Full, limpid, balanced. A touch oil/creamy. Great lychee and spice flavour, and a wonderfully thick luscious, marmaladey sweetness. 17.5/20