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Loire 2010: Touraine & Centre
Loire 2010
First Taste, 2011
Touraine & Centre
Second Taste, 2012
During my visit to the Loire in 2010 I found it impossible to get hold of Frantz Saumon. I mentioned this to Richard Leroy, who is a friend of Frantz. As it turned out they had been talking on the telephone the preceding evening, and Frantz had reported thunderstorms, with plentiful precipitation including hailstones, only the previous day. Nothing unusual about that, except this was the middle of July; hailstorms aren't expected (although having been caught in a particularly heavy shower of hail just outside Chaudefonds sur Layon in July 2007 I know from personal experience that mid-summer hailstorms in the Loire are no myth). And so it was perhaps unsurprising that I couldn't track Frantz down; he was out in the vineyards from dawn until dusk, tending to his vines, some of which had been damaged by the impact of the hail. It was an early indication to me of some of the difficulties the vignerons faced in this particular vintage.
Loire 2010: Touraine
Catherine Champalou certainly projected a guarded and circumspect opinion of the vintage when I spoke with her in early 2011, describing it with refreshing honesty as "not an easy one". The spring was cool, she reported, and the summer months were, apparently, no better than "OK". Bernard Fouquet, meanwhile, used the perhaps rather euphemistic term "interesting" to convey his opinion of 2010. None of these statements would measure up very well in the search for a ringing endorsement of the quality of the vintage.
Having said that, I know from my tastings so far that there are some good wines in 2010. They are not necessarily
the most exciting of cuvées but if you are in the hunt for serviceable dry
wines, as opposed to the exalted and sometimes super-sweet moelleux
cuvées, this vintage certainly has its fair share of candidates. The dry wines
of Huet are particularly good (there will be plenty of
pétillant and sec, but only tiny
amounts of demi-sec and moelleux première trie - see my
2011 Huet update for more information), as
are those from François
Chidaine (again, more on these wines in my 2011
Chidaine update). The wines of Domaine
des Aubuisières (tasted here and a week later in Angers, further notes to
follow) are rather lighter and more feminine than
I expected, no doubt a reflection of his "interesting" vintage, and
stylistically they were closer to the wines of
Catherine Champalou (pictured right) than any other vintage I can recall
tasting. Sticking with Champalou, I have tasted only two Champalou wines from this vintage
so far (in Angers, not at
the tasting written up here); these cuvées showed promise,
despite Catherine's rather cool comments detailed above. Otherwise she was
pouring her 2009s and a single 2008, so I will have to wait a while before
tasting the rest of her portfolio in the 2010 vintage.
The wines referenced above were tasted in Angers in January this year, alongside examples from Jacky Blot of Domaine de la Taille aux Loups, Xavier Weisskopf of Le Rocher des Violettes, Lise and Bertrand Jousset, Clos Roche Blanche, Thierry Puzelat and Frantz Saumon. As was the case with my 2010 Muscadet & Anjou report, those notes that have not yet been added to my profiles will be soon. As for the wines written up below, I tasted these at Charles Sydney's annual Loire tasting in London, just a week or so before my trip to Angers.
Loire 2010: Centre
Finally we come to the central vineyards, where we find the Sauvignon enclaves of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. I make no secret of the fact that these appellations are not why my heart lies with the Loire, as almost all my regular coups de coeur can be found further downstream, where Sauvignon Blanc gives way to Chenin Blanc in particular, but also the two Cabernets, more esoteric members of the Loire varietal portfolio such as Grolleau, Pineau d'Aunis and Romorantin and, dare I say it, the ever-under-appreciated Melon de Bourgogne. Nevertheless there are great wines made here. I didn't taste any at this year's Salon, but at Charles Sydney's tasting I encountered a handful of really enticing wines from the likes of Vincent Pinard, Domaine Laporte and Florian Mollet, and a special mention goes out to the Menetou-Salon from La Tour St Martin, this being a particularly appealing wine for the appellation. On the whole the wines seem to have better vigour and form than the 2009s, rather like the Muscadets I suppose, and the vintage will appeal to many for that I think. (19/5/11)
Touraine & Centre 2010: Tasting Notes
These wines were tasted in January 2011. Click
to
locate stockists.
Château Gaudrelle Vouvray Ammonite 2010: An attractive nose, bright, rather minerally, but also with a soapstone, talcy perfume to it. This
latter element seems to be a hallmark of the Gaudrelle style. This persists on the palate, which has a very soft,
supple and caressing character, gently polished but at its core maintaining the soft, perfumed, soapy-papery style of
young Chenin Blanc. There is a little minerality underneath it too. An attractive wine, in its own way. 15-16/20
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Domaine des Aubuisières Vouvray Cuvée Silex 2010: Bright and flinty on the nose, elements of citrus
fruit coming through, with a smoky edge, characteristics which both Chenin and Sauvignon show on this terroir I think.
A beautiful substance on the palate though, obviously good flesh, but with a very clean minerally-talcy style which
goes beyond papery-soapy femininity. Very fine acidity cutting through it too. A very elegant although youthful style which will be
fine in 5-10 years time I think. 16-17/20
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Château Gaudrelle Vouvray 2010: This wine also has the Gaudrelle style, all chalky-talcy elements laid over some
straight, soft white fruit. A touch of sugar sweetness suggested on the nose, with a honeyed edge. Soft and fleshy on the
palate, then more acid coming in, gentle but quite precise. Supple,
slowly warming up in the mouth, but showing a lot more acid cut as it does so. An appealing freshness and a good wine to consider cellaring I think. Given time,
this could be very good. 15.5-16.5/20
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Domaine des Aubuisières Vouvray Le Marigny 2010: A touch of whisky mash on the nose here; I've learnt this
is just a hangover from winemaking and it will fade. Underneath is the toothsome sweetness of the fruit, heady and perfumed,
with a wild, thyme-honey edge to it. A solid style on entry, although the palate is led by a very fine acidity which persists
through the palate although it is very well covered by the weight of sweet apple-pear fruit at times. This is very typical of
a good, young, high-quality Chenin overall. Lots of substance here, lots of promise too. 16-17/20
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Domaine des Aubuisières Vouvray Moelleux Le Plan de Jean 2010: This has a different style on the nose, more solid
than the other wines, less perfumed, with a more stony and minerally character. There are notes of herby-honey, apple and
pear, but these young-Chenin characteristics play a secondary role behind the stony notes which are more evident. This comes
through on the palate as well, although there is some sweet fruit here there is also a very well defined but gentle core of
acid, along with a mild but attractive minerality. Most notable is the fleshy substance of the wine, which comes from a handsome residual.
It feels fairly light for a moelleux, so don't expect hedonistic sweetness from
this wine. Nevertheless, very true to the appellation and full of potential. 16.5-17.5/20
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Château Gaudrelle Vouvray Moelleux Réserve Spéciale 2010: From a half bottle. This is fresh, lifted and light on
the nose, with pure and gently creamed white citrus fruits, along with a green apple skin and chalky-talcy freshness. A good
substance on the palate, fresh and full, not the deepest or most honeyed of styles but very nicely lifted by its vibrant cut
of acids and minerals. A good, sappy, biting structure to the finish. An attractive wine although it needs cellar time to show its best. 15.5-16.5/20
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Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Montlouis Les Dix Arpents 2010: Honeyed, heady and very sweetly perfumed on
the nose, full of pear and autumnal apple character. Despite this rather seductive aromatic profile the palate is crisply
defined by a very beautiful core of gritty, crystalline acidity which streaks right through the centre of the wine, giving
it a fabulous definition. Around this there sits all the sweet fruit suggested by the nose, but also a massive seam of lovely
minerality. And the finish is defined, grippy and delicious. Lovely potential. 16-17/20
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Domaine de la Bergerie Touraine Sauvignon Blanc 2010: A very classically styled nose, with yellow capsicum fruit,
but it does have that suggestion of softness and cream alongside the biting Sauvignon aromas though, which is welcome. Slightly
challenging in terms of structure and flavour, which I like, with a touch of wildness to it. Nicely textured on entry, the
flavour characteristics well reined in, bright, lightly fleshy, with really crisp acidity lending a white pepper spice to the
palate. A good, firm and spicy finish, quite long too which is surprising, with plenty of that pepper in the length. An attractive
wine superior to many New Zealand examples, and giving that varietal hit so many people crave. 15-16/20
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Domaine de la Charmoise Touraine Sauvignon Blanc Les Pierres Fines 2010: No real varietal suggestion on the nose here,
not necessarily a criticism with Sauvignon I think. There is some slightly polished, sweet-candied fruit, but this element is
very subtle and again this is not really a criticism. A nice acid cut on the palate, sherbetty minerality, and a rather papery
style of fruit, bold and stony rather than expressive of Sauvignon fruit. In terms of character this is certainly very individual.
A Sauvignon for drinkers who prefer Muscadet I think!
14.5-15.5/20
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La Tour St Martin Touraine Blanc Hortense 2010: Old vine Sauvignon Blanc, rather
a characterful nose, with some truthfully expressed and rather appealing varietal character, made all the more attractive
by being packaged within a rather sweet, honeyed, creamy-citrus envelope. Good character on the palate that matches the
aromatics, with bright fruit wrapped up in a very polished capsule of orange zest and talc, with a lot of minerally acid coming through too.
Certainly a fascinating glassful, although it does seem a rather broad and bold rather than finessed
style. 14.5-15.5/20
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Domaine de la Bergerie Touraine Gamay 2010: A really appealing nose here, a glossy colour too. A smoky and concentrated
fruit character, with stony forest fruit and plum stone. More expressive of
terroir than variety I think. The palate has a lovely substance, soft and ripe, rather plush even, with moderate acidity
well hidden beneath the fruit. A bit of grip to it, but the stony fruit character dominates despite the ripeness of the texture.
A sooty-chewy finish. This is impressive! 15-16/20
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Domaine de la Charmoise Touraine Gamay Première Vendange 2010: Juicy but not so dense as some of the 2009 Gamays
that I have tasted. A very fresh style on the nose, bright and stony, with fresh fruit,
and this is matched by the style found on the palate, which shows a bright and incisive acid backbone here,
which shows through particularly well as the substance of the wine is not as dense as it
might be in a richer vintage. Fine and stony fruit character, very clean and appealing, lightly grippy, dry and stony.
Overall, a good effort, although with a rather short finish. 14-15/20
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Couly-Dutheil Chinon Les Chatelières 2010: There is perhaps the suggestion of better definition here, reflecting the
terroir perhaps. Fresh, bright, stony red fruit nose. A lovely light grip at the start of the palate, with something of
a sandy texture to it, but there is a good frame around the soft fruit character. It does build quite nicely on the palate,
showing a supple layer of fruit, and towards the finish there is a good grip coming in too. A very decent and drinkable Chinon.
14.5-15.5/20
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Domaine de la Garenne Sancerre 2010: A very expressive nose here, showing a little more varietal character,
with some herb-tinged yellow capsicum, and a suggestion of a gentle creaminess too. A quite solid style overall
though. Very fleshy and lively on the palate, well composed, coming through the midpalate in a very controlled yet
expressive fashion, here showing a more appealing face cream and lemon mousse style. Good grip in the finish too. Attractive,
more so on the palate than the nose. 15-16/20
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Pierre et Gérard Morin Sancerre 2010: Rather a bitter lemon edge, the
fruit here is all pith rather than zest, but it certainly has a big, bright and incisive character led by the citrus notes. The
same is found on the palate where well-honed acidity comes in first, and the gentle substance of the wine
seems to follow on afterwards. It is attractive and has a good, crisp, citrusy style
though. And a good bright finish too. 15-16/20
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Florian Mollet Sancerre 2010: Rather a reserved and solid style on the nose here, with a broad sweetness to the fruit,
perhaps suggesting a softer style than some of the preceding wines. Nicely composed, a touch herby, very typical in terms of style.
And the character on the palate follows on from this first impression, the substance quite broad, gentle, with sweet but citrusy
fruit and a well balanced acid core. An appealing wine with more cut and definition than I recall from the 2009 vintage. Very dry, sappy and bold. 14-15/20
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Florian Mollet Sancerre Roc de l'Abbaye 2010: A brighter nose, defined, with the orange citrus tinge that comes with a flint
terroir, and overall a more lifted and accessible feel to it. On the
palate more incisive than the straight Sancerre, with sweetness to the fruit,
lots of dry acid giving backbone and a little tangible extract too. This
certainly has some appeal, especially through into the finish where it shows
some really enticing minerality. 16.5-17.5/20
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Domaine Laporte Sancerre Le Rochoy 2010: Really pale in terms of
appearance, but this wine has a very bright and lifted nose which sings of peach skin and pear along with a light,
ethereal suggestion of minerals. But most notable is the great lift than comes with it, as it leaps light-footed from the glass.
A lovely character on the palate too, broad yet just brimming with incisive and gently prickling acidity, giving the pithy
citrusy, fruit of the palate a real sense of focus. Very pure and white-fruited in style, this is a Sancerre I could definitely drink. 17-18/20
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Vincent Pinard Sancerre Cuvée Florès 2010: An enticing nose here, the fruit defined and with a rich, citrus oil
character to it, but there is also a trace of matchsticky reduction alongside it. I suspect this will go with time but
at this low level I really don't mind its presence. Indeed, it quickly blows off in the glass leaving
some pure fruit. Rather a solid style of wine, but with a bright and clean acid core, and
a rich, flinty, stony sense to it. Real intensity and linearity here, laser-like precision despite the depth.
Fine pithy substance at the end too. Excellent wine. 17-18/20
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Domaine de Bel Air Pouilly-Fumé 2010: An attractive, gently polished style of fruit on the nose.
A well reined-in character, quite solid and firm. There is a similar character on the palate, smooth-sided
and well-polished, overall quite firm and attractive. This has a very classic style, rather bright in its composition, with good expression of
terroir, on the whole charming and very typical. Plenty of good acidity too, and a fine, cream-tinged character too. 15.5-16.5/20
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André Figeat Pouilly-Fumé Les Chaumiennes 2010: A water-white hue. This wine is loaded with matchstick reduction on the nose,
and I get nuances of white fruit behind it. Leaving the wine for
five minutes this does eventually give way to a very attractive and subtly interwoven melange of grapefruit and passion fruit. A
nice presence on the palate, some nice grip at the middle with appropriate acidity, a little grassy-green in terms of fruit style
here, but still very appealing. Still a little note of matchstick though. Give it time. 15-16/20
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Florian Mollet Pouilly-Fumé 2010: A straightforward character on the nose, clean, not that expressive but not
unappealing either. A bright acid core, the typical grippy-green fruit character of young Pouilly-Fumé, but with an
appealing citrusy structure down the middle of it. A little sherbetty in terms of minerality. Attractive drinking and
probably good value, not varietally restrained. But with that a hint of anonymity too. I like the vibrant, biting grip on the finish though. 14.5-15.5/20
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Alain Cailbourdin Pouilly-Fumé Cuvée du Boisfleury 2010: This has well-honed fruit on the nose, all very
polished and expressive. But it is presented in a very controlled, citrus-oil
style, with appealing hints of pithy polished stone. A really appealing character on the palate, plenty of substance
here but it is kept firmly in check by a fine acid frame, and a lifted, citrusy character, running through the wine
with an acid and mineral edge. Well composed, with a balanced citrus bite, but with a softness to it as well. 16-17/20
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Alain Cailbourdin Pouilly-Fumé Les Cris 2010: Like one or two other wines, this is showing a little
sulphur on the nose today. In fact it seems quite difficult to get past it. On the palate though a very appealing
substance, with a good acid bite underpinning a soft and broad layer of initially fuzzy-edged fruit although this
really tightens up nicely at the end. An attractive grip overall.
I just find it a little difficult on the nose at present though. 16-17/20
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Florian Mollet Pouilly-Fumé Antique 2010: Unfined and unfiltered. This
cuvée seems to bring a sweetness to the fruit which has rather taken me aback on previous tastings. Here it shows
rather well, although fresh and clean, supple and broad, rather bold, with a soft feel to it across the middle of
the palate. Attractive, bold, more prickly acid coming up from underneath in the middle of the palate. Rather
a heady and perfumed style of fruit here, with a long, grippy, pithy finish.
This is really rather good. Certainly way ahead of the softer 2009. 16-17/20
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La Tour St Martin Menetou-Salon 2010: Rather green fruit here, greengage alongside
the pear, with a solid and polished feel to it. Very nicely rounded off at the start, as perhaps
suggested by the nose, but there is a really appealing central line of acid coming through with
the texture as well, and this gently builds in the midpalate while staying all the time balanced
and very appropriate. The fruit has a sweet pear feel to it but that will go with time in bottle.
Lovely texture and substance, really fresh and yet totally composed and direct.
Overall, delicious and impressive. 16.5-17.5/20
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