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Burgundy at The Ledbury, 2010

Who most personifies wine in the noughties, the decade that has just closed with the passing of 2009? Robert Parker, perhaps? Or the in-your-face exuberance of the man who seems to combine retailing and criticism of wine, Gary Vaynerchuk? Neither, according to a recent poll run by popular blogger Tyler Coleman; the man that personifies wines in the noughties is none other than Eric LeVine, creator and developer of Cellar Tracker, the online cellar management system that has come to dominate - rightly so in my opinion - the electronic cellar management market.

LeVine (shown left - in his element) fell into Cellar Tracker almost by accident, a remarkable admission when we consider the appeal and superb functionality that it offers. An employee of Microsoft, he stuck with the company - where he met his wife - for an impressive thirteen years. But then he came to realise, during the course of a year or so, that his heart wasn't in it, and he resigned his post, not really sure of which direction he was going to take. As luck would have it, he had just started work on a personal project to manage his wine cellar. The spark that brought it to the internet for us all to use occurred when two of his friends caught sight of it, and persuaded him to make it available to them. Pretty soon the three of them were enjoying looking at each other's cellars online, and Eric realised that he was onto something.

I travelled down to London just last week to meet Eric at a lunch being held in his honour at The Ledbury in Notting Hill. Avoiding the topic of Bill Gates (I think he might have been asked that one before) we chatted about his work, his family, his all-too-brief trip to the UK and much more. And, of course, we were able to do so over a fabulous lunch, bare details of which are given below, and a series of excellent wines. Although one table enjoyed 1991 Rhônes, a vintage which I have already written up many years ago on this site, I was happy to be situated on an adjacent table with a focus on Burgundy. Happy, because this is a region where, despite my recently published Burgundy guide, I still have much exploring and discovering to do.

The notes below are as written at the time of the tasting (with a few introductory guidance notes on the domaines added later), which was not blind. Although the focus was certainly Burgundy, these wines were flanked by Champagne at one end, and a multinational selection of sweet wines at the other. There was one wine I have omitted to discuss, the 1996 Dom Pérignon Rosé served from magnum, poured to celebrate the news that Nigel Platts-Martin and Brett Graham, proprietor and chef of The Ledbury respectively, had picked up a second Michelin star (the results having been released as we dined). Unfortunately, after two desserts and three dessert wines my palate wasn't in a fit state to make any valid judgement of this wine. (19/1/10)

Burgundy at The Ledbury, 2010 - Tasting Notes

The following wines were tasted in January 2010. Click for stockists.

Kicking off, to accompany salt-roasted potatoes with a roasted garlic mayonnaise.

Bérèche et Fils Reflet d'Antan Champagne NV: A fascinating wine made by the Bérèche family, Hungarian immigrants who arrived in the Champagne region in the early 19th century. The wine is made using a solera system before going into bottle for the second fermentation, followed by hand-riddling and dégorgement a la volée (disgorgement without freezing the sediment into a pellet). In the glass it has a good, firm bead, and an attractive pale straw colour. The nose has a creamy quality, with sweet dried fruits, and also an oxidative streak which gives in an appley, cheesy quality. This latter character also comes through on the palate, where it contrasts with fresh acidity and a tight, crisp mousse. Nuances of honeyed, oiled-oak too. A really appealing wine. 17/20

Four white Burgundies, with a small tart of Jerusalem artichokes and Burgundy truffle with winter savory and Comte.

Domaine Bachey-Legros Santenay Sous La Roche Blanc 2006: This is a 34.6-hectare domaine, with vineyards predominantly located in Santenay and Chassagne-Montrachet, at the southern end of the Côte de Beaune. The vines in Sous la Roche are some of their youngest, having been planted in 2000. A paler white than the other wines, and an appealing nose, with some very clean, smoky, flinty character. The palate follows in a similar fashion, a very clean style rather smoky, very well defined, with good substance and just a touch of grip. Nicely poised for the appellation. This is a very good effort. 16/20

Gerin Père et Fils Meursault 1955: An ancient wine from an unknown négociant; the only Gerin Père et Fils I can find any trace of today is a fruit-grower near Avignon, I suspect no relation. This was an academic adventure rather than one bringing pure pleasure. Served blind, the wine had a very unusual nose, with fleeting traces of vanilla and coconut, but riding roughshod over these nuances was the dusty aroma of mothballs. The palate is rather plump, resinous, a little blowsy really, the body of the wine sitting distant from what little structure it still possesses. A fat, fading finish. I elected not to score this one, thinking it faulty, but once the label was revealed I must confess I was impressed at how well this minor wine has held up over five decades. Not scored.

Domaine Dubreuil-Fontaine Corton-Charlemagne 1986: A 20-hectare domaine based in Pernand-Vergelesses, the origin of which dates back to 1879. Today the domaine is in the hands of Christine Gruere-Dubreuil who manages holdings around Aloxe-Corton, Pommard and Savigny as well as on the hill of Corton. This wine has an appealing golden colour, but the nose is sadly off-putting, with a lot of sulphur-derived aromas, a mix of just-struck matches with flinty, gunpowder elements. The palate has a good substance, good grip too, but I struggled to get past the sulphur here. There is linearity, a nice minerality too, with a broad and spicy character. But the sulphur ruins it for me. Still, at least it hasn't oxidised. Not scored.

Henri Boillot Corton-Charlemagne 2004: Henri Boillot took over from his father Jean in 1989 and since then has established himself as one of the Côte d'Or's leading producers. This wine has a straw-tinged colour, much paler than the previous two, reflecting its youth. The nose is straight and well defined, with a fat honeyed edge; with time in the glass it opens up and builds into a much bolder character, with some smoke and flint, and a little oak influence still apparent. The palate continues in the same vein, structured, quite grippy, modern, very purely fashioned, with a little dried-fruit character. Great backbone and linear substance. A really great wine, full of potential. There's just that worry - with all white Burgundy these days - that the oxygen will kill it before it shows its true worth, in 10-15 years time. 17.5+/20

To accompany pork cheeks braised in Pedro Ximénez with salsify, harn and kaki fruit.

Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Chaignots 2004: A leading domaine in this commune which occasionally features in my ten-year-on tastings, this domaine is run by the family of the late Dr Georges Mugneret. The wines can be superb. Notes of liquorice and cherry on the nose, showing a rather solid style, with a crunchy edge. Good substance on the palate, polished and dry, quite savoury, with a seam of crunchy red fruits that match those found on the nose. Firm with a little grip at the edge. The 2004s are said to be marked by unusual aromas but I find nothing of great concern here, other than a twist of green though the middle and finish. A good wine with certain potential. 16.5+/20

Domaine Dujac Chambolle-Musigny 1990: This small but well-endowed domaine is run by Jacques Seysses, with wife Diana and sons Jeremy and Alec. It has a remarkably strong reputation, and an excellent portfolio of vineyard holdings. This mature village-level wine has a good colour, rather matt in appearance, with a dusty oxblood core and a paling rim. The nose has remarkably young fruit in evidence, laid over some more mature, meaty elements. The palate has a dry, savoury, stony character, gentle flesh but great definition and acidity which I think very fine. A complete, balanced style, impressive for the level, structured and capable of many more years in the cellar yet. 17.5+/20

Domaine Ponsot Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru Charmes 1988: This domaine has its origins in the acquisition of vineyards by William Ponsot in 1872, following his return home after the Franco-Prussian War. It remains in the hands of his descendents today. This wine has a slightly cloudy appearance, a very fine sediment suspended within, and it has a very mature, almost tawny hue. The nose is warm, with a touch of balsamic, although it comes down on the sweet, slightly volatile side rather than the overtly acetic. I like it, even though it reminds me a little of Vega Sicilia. Rich, with great substance on the palate, rounded and polished, meaty yet elegant, with good harmony. Not the vigour of the Dujac, but it remains well defined through to the finish. Long, too. Probably one of my favourites of this tasting - for current drinking, at least. 18/20

This flight sat well with fillet of beef with snail in a mousseline of herbs, garlic milk and oxtail roasting juices.

Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Les Malconsorts 2000: The first in a trio of wines from three highly-regarded domaines. The Cathiard family are based in Vosne-Romanée and have just 5 hectares of vines, all in the Côte de Nuits. These vines were planted in 1972. This has a fine, very pure hue, with a firm, composed nose. There is a good fruit presence, with cherry and beetroot and a touch of tobacco. A lovely composition on the palate, a pure although rather rich fruit character, with great substance to it. Structured, with some appealing organic character, and a vibrant style. This is a great wine in the making. 17.5+/20

Domaine de la Vougeraie Charmes-Chambertin Les Mazoyères 2000: This is a very large domaine with vineyards along the length and breadth of the Côte d'Or, even though it is a relatively recent creation, having been established in 1964 with the purchase of Les Evocelles in Gevrey-Chambertin by Jean-Claude and Claudine Boisset. This wine has a very polished nose, with a hint of smoke. It has a beautiful vibrancy, perfumed, not quite haunting but certainly close! Violets swirled with minerals, solid and substantial, but with a fine backbone of acid. Still a very young cuvée but full of promise. 17.5+/20

Domaine Armand Rousseau Mazy-Chambertin 2002: This is one of Burgundy's greats of course, so little introduction is needed. Established by Armand in the early years of the 20th century after he inherited some vines in Gevrey-Chambertin, more recently Charles Rousseau and then his daughters Corinne and Brigitte have been at the helm. This has a bright and minerally nose, crisp and youthful. It has a less solid, less oak-influenced character than the preceding two wines. This freshness continues onto the palate, which has a clean, balanced, pure and elegant style. A great wine, with very tight definition, vivacious and above all intensely mineral. A brilliant wine in the making which demands to be left alone for now. 18+/20

With desserts, first an amuse of apple compote over an iced vanilla cream, then a caramelised banana galette with salted caramel and peanut butter ice cream.

Helmut Lang Pinot Noir Illmitz Beerenauslese 2006: This domaine comprises about 15 hectares of vines around Neusiedlersee in Austria. The colour is an appealing onion-skin hue, and the nose certainly enticing, with aromas of tropical fruit compote, fresh but lightly sweet, touching on ethereal. The palate is fresh, with great acidity, and a little plumpness to the fruit. Pure acidity and a very clean, vanilla ice cream character. A good wine which worked all the better with an amuse of apple over a light vanilla custard. 16+/20

Philippe Foreau Vouvray Moelleux Réserve 2003: No introduction needed here for the Loire-o-philes that frequent this site. A disappointing wine though; although there are some appealing complexities of pear, quince, mango and guava fruit, and a papery note that is typical of young Chenin, there is a more prominent baked-apple-oxidation seam which ruins the nose for me. In fact, tasted blind, I wondered whether it might be the Tokaji. The palate has a good succulent style, with lots of sweetness and a peppery acidity, but again that appley oxidation is omnipresent. Not typical of the domaine, vintage or indeed the individual cuvée. Nevertheless, I know enough of the underlying quality shone through for others to think it fabulous. Not scored.

Disznókö Tokaji 6 Puttonyos 2002: One of Hungary's leading estates. The wine has a fine baked honey and caramel nose, and a very bold and structured palate. There is an oxidative streak here, and a firm and grippy character. But there is freshness too, in the shape of citrus fruits, oranges and lemons, swirled with a little cream. Sweet and appealing and very long. A good wine not at all dominated by its classic oxidative vein, which I like. Plenty of potential here. 16.5+/20