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Graves

Graves lies south of the city of Bordeaux, and so south of the Médoc. The Graves vineyards lie along the left bank of the Garonne, as it flows to its rendezvous with the Dordogne, at which point it becomes the Gironde. This is one of the longest established vignobles of Bordeaux; there was viticulture here as far back as the Middle Ages, centuries before many of the leading properties of the Médoc were established. The regions leading chateau, Chateau Haut Brion, dates back to the mid-16th Century.

There is gravel in Graves – hence the name – but the soils also include patches of clay, sand and chalk, often containing many embedded sea shells; a testament to the proximity of the Garonne, the course of which has varied over the millennia. The depth of gravel varies, and is as deep as three metres in places, forming well defined outcrops. This well drained and impoverished soil is credited with much of the character and quality of the wines of Graves.

In 1987 the expanse of vineyards that make up Graves were, after many years of pressure from the leading producers, further categorised, with the northernmost section receiving a new appellation, Pessac-Léognan. Here can be found all the chateau of major interest, including Chateau Haut Brion, Chateau Haut Bailly and others (see my page on the Graves classification for further details on the chateaux of Graves). As an aside, it is also worth noting that although Graves is known for dry whites as well as reds, it also encompasses the smaller appellations of Barsac and Sauternes which lie on the banks of the Garonne, not far from Langon.

Of all the left bank communes, it is probably Graves with which I am least familiar. And this is peculiar, because I frequently find great pleasure when I do chance across one. I should endeavour to drink more of these wines - the following small tasting, and the tastings presented over the next two days, go a tiny way towards putting this right. This tasting presents just five wines from the region, from four of the top properties. Tomorrow I'll be publishing the first of two chateau profiles. (26/10/04)

Graves - Tasting Notes

Tasted in October 2004. Click to locate stockists:

Chateau de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan) 1985: Deep, dark colour although paling at the rim. Mature fruit, elegant, rich dark and spicy. A bit of green pepper and five spice here. Full, rich, dark and earthy palate. Good firm acidity, a little drying tannin just in the finish. A deep wealth of mature fruit. More of the Oriental spices found on the nose. Lovely.17/20

Chateau Haut-Bailly (Pessac-Léognan) 1985: A vibrant, surprisingly youthful, glossy and homogenous colour. A wonderful treacle toffee nose on a background of maturing dark fruits. Splendid! Pure, glossy, deep and rich on the palate. Burnt fruit, smoke and minerals. Great texture. Rounded, firm, still with a tannic backbone, but approachable now. Fabulous, interesting, expressive yet elegant wine. 18.5+/20

Chateau Pape-Clément (Pessac-Léognan) 1985: Dense, pure, surprisingly youthful colour. Very classic nose, with good fruit. Open and expressive, meaty, gloriously accessible. This is early maturity. Powerful, smooth, pure, fluid mouthfeel. Firm sweet fruit backed up by plenty of tannic structure. Floral aromatics. Lovely wine, with great potential. 17.5+/20

Domaine de Chevalier (Pessac-Léognan) 1988: Showing some maturity here. Good colour, bricking a little at the rim. Mature, gravelly, sweet perfumed fruit on the nose. A touch metallic. Big, full, sweet palate, with piles of fruit and plenty of tannin. Correct acidity. Showing some development but will improve for an impressive five to ten years yet. 17.5+/20

Chateau Malartic-Lagravière (Pessac-Léognan) 1989: Moderate colour, mature. Very mature fruit on the nose, earthy and cedary, with a baked-macerated character. Also a little toffee. Soft texture on the palate, but backed up by some good dry tannins. Firm, mature fruit with a sweet edge and correct acidity. Drinking well now. Very good. 16.5/20

Chateau de Fieuzal (Pessac-Léognan) 1990: Very deep colour here with little sign of significant age. Intensely perfumed, minerals and smoke, flower petals and meat. Brilliant, classic style. Full, powerful palate. Sweet edged fruit, ripe tannins giving a firm structure, especially in the finish. Plenty of spice. Delicious wine with potential. Drink over the next ten years. 18+/20

Domaine de Chevalier (Pessac-Léognan) 1995: Deep red, dense hue. Earthy fruit nose, a touch metallic. Firm, structured palate. Plenty of tannic structure and acidity here. Firm fruit. Very youthful grip and has plenty of potential. Needs five to ten years - possibly more. 17+/20

Domaine de Chevalier (Pessac-Léognan) 1996: Red purple hue, very dense. Mature, earthy perfumed nose. The palate is truly very impressive; packed with sweet, maturing, claretty fruit. Soft and ripe tannins, correct acidity. Great grip in the finish. Classic style. Needs five years cellar time as a minimum. From a Graves tasting. 17.5+/20