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Germany: Sommelier's Choice
To conclude my current exploration of fine German wines, looking in particular at traditional versus trocken styles, I present tasting notes from a selection of wines presented by the German Wine Institute. The intended purpose was to demonstrate the food friendly nature of Riesling, and indeed as I tasted the wines some of the suggested food matches seemed divine. I was also struck, however, by the contrasts between the polarised styles of German wine that now exist, the tasting further cementing my preference for the traditional over the trocken. (9/9/05)
Germany: Sommelier's Choice - Tasting Notes
Tasted in May 2005. Click
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stockists:
The Trocken:
Heyl zu Herrnsheim Rotschiefer Riesling Trocken 2002: Suggested by
Nuria Frau-Trullen of the Langham Hotel for wild sea bass with a clam and
scallop risotto. Precise, mineral fruit, with melon and mango aromas. Very dry
palate, with good body. Mineral, herb-trimmed palate with only subtle hints of
the delightful tropical fruit found on the nose. This is good. 15.5/20
Bürklin-Wolf Wachenheimer Rechbachel Riesling Spätlese Trocken 2001:
Suggested by Troy Sutton of Nahm for lobster and wing bean salad. An unusual
nose, strongly exhibiting notes of turpentine, before developing a more classic
and quite evolved note of petrol. Decent weight on the palate, correct acidity,
with a chalk and petrol character like that on the nose. A great vintage, but no
great style here. It may improve with cellar time of course. 14+/20
Von Buhl Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling Spätlese Trocken 2002:
Suggested by Ronan Sayburn of Gordon Ramsay at Chelsea for ravioli of lobster
and langoustine. Lovely nose here, showing chalky crushed rocks and notes of
orange blossom. The palate is a little lacking in substance, although it has a
lovely fresh, floral, mineral flavour profile, the barest hint of some tropical
fruit. Bone dry. Lovely food wine. 15.5/20
The Traditional:
Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett 2000: Suggested by
Laurent Chaniac of The Cinnamon Club for a stir fry of squid with coconut and
chilli. A nice, open, petrol-tinged nose-full of fruit. Very approachable
palate, with soft acidity, showing a little plumpness. Nicely textured, and
showing a little barley sugar twist to the petrol and lime fruit. This Kabinett
is eminently preferable to the preceding trocken wines which had Spätlese
prädikat. 16/20
Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2002: Suggested by James
Dougherty of the Butler's Wharf Chophouse for roast Suffolk pork loin. Some
honeycomb aromas, with steely-slate, petrol-tinged, floral finesse. Lovely
weight on the palate, with quite firm acidity. It is quite primary and rather
simple at present, but it has good slatey character and is simply stuffed with
potential. This will be beautiful in time, but needs ten years as a bare
minimum, and will drink for long after that. 17.5+/20
Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Auslese 1990:
Suggested by Matt Wilkin of The Capital for seared duck foie gras. Good,
evolving nose. Rich notes entering at the edges, but with plenty of lime and
some subtle kerosene freshness. Lovely balance, with a pure, rounded, chalky
mineral component countered by fine acidity and an elegant texture. Steely,
blossom notes on the finish. A superb wine, still improving (should drink well
for another decade), and in my opinion the most appealing food match of all the
suggestions. 17.5+/20
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