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Philippe Delesvaux Update, February 2010
Philippe Delesvaux
This update relates to wines tasted in February 2010.
For more on this estate, including all my relevant tasting notes, see my Philippe Delesvaux profile.
Philippe and Catherine Delesvaux seemed just as charming as ever at this year's Renaissance tasting in Angers, and perhaps this bright demeanour reflects their attractive portfolio of wines. This year they were showing only a quartet of wines from 2008, complemented by the Sélection des Grains Nobles from 2006.
As usual the openers were the two Anjou Blanc cuvées, the main distinguishing feature between the two being that the Feuille d'Or is made from grafted vines whereas the Authentique comes from vines planted franc de pied. Which I prefer seems to vary from vintage to vintage, and comparing the 2008 duo I found the Authentique somewhat more complex and convincing, at least at this early stage. Rather more consistent is my opinion of when these wines will show best, as I find they sing after a few years in bottle, totally eclipsing the more crisp and papery feel they reveal when tasted so young. This was nicely illustrated by my tasting of the 2006 Feuille d'Or last year.
The Anjou Rouge was serviceable, and the sole sweet wine from 2008, the Coteaux du Layon St Aubin, made from a mix of botrytised and passerillé fruit picked in three tries also showed a rather subtle style. A more overt pleasure came with the final wine, the 2006 Sélection des Grains Nobles, surely the style on which the Delesvaux reputation rests? A fine character on the nose was followed by a supple but rich palate, with the power that is brought by noble rot. (18/3/10)
Philippe Delesvaux, February 2009 - Tasting Notes
The wines below were tasted in Angers at the
annual Renaissance tasting, just before the
Salon des Vins de Loire in
February 2010. All my notes on the wines of Marc Angeli, including those below, are collated under my
Philippe Delesvaux profile. Click
to locate stockists.
Philippe Delesvaux Anjou Feuille d'Or 2008: Bottled September 2009.
There is certainly a house style at Delesvaux, and this wine has it in spades. A
very papery, crisp style of Chenin Blanc on the nose, leafy with white fruit
elements. The palate kicks off a little lean, with only moderate concentration,
although it has a fresh and defined style, with a trace of mineral. And there is
a nice, rather promising flourish of tangerine zest at the end. This one has
promise. 15.5+/20
Philippe Delesvaux Anjou Authentique 2008: This cuvée is produced from
ungrafted vines. Fresh and stylish, a fine nose, and there is certainly
something more to it than there is to the Feuille d'Or this vintage. A deeper
character in terms of aroma, and a more stylish palate. Firm, rather papery,
again a twist of oranges and tangerines in the finish. Firm midpalate. A step
up, again with promise for the future. 15.5-16+/20
Philippe Delesvaux Anjou Rouge 2008: This cuvée is 100% Cabernet
Franc. It certainly has an interesting nose for such a youthful cuvée, the fruit
here marked by a rather obvious note of game. The palate is at the lighter and
fresher end of the spectrum, with good fruit but only moderate weight. The red
wines are not the strongest here, I think. 15+/20
Philippe Delesvaux Coteaux du Layon St Aubin 2008: This particular
cuvée was harvested in three tries, the first botrytised, the next
half-botrytis and half-passerillage, the last all passerillage.
Despite all this care it shows a rather muted and sullen nose today, with traces
of gentle, minerally, honey-tinged fruit, but it is all very subtle. A very nice
style on the palate though, gently honeyed, defined, building well in the
midpalate. Restrained, papery like the dry cuvées, and overall a good but
reserved style. Difficult to judge. 15.5-16.5+?/20
Philippe Delesvaux Coteaux du Layon Sélection des Grains Nobles 2006:
This cuvée is produced from 100% botrytised fruit; in keeping with this and its
extra couple of years in bottle it has an open and characterful nose, of honey
and caramel and beeswax, all stylishly wrapped together. Broad on the palate,
with a light grip to it, with lots of botrytis character, and a good backbone of
acidity too. A fine and supple style, with a touch of power in the finish. Good
for the cellar. 18+/20
