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Nicolas Joly Update, January 2011

Each time I think I have come to the end of this year's exploration of Savennières, more tasting notes come to light. The latest to be uncovered are from Nicolas Joly, and as I have found in other recent vintages it is another trio of successes for this domaine. I have to confess I do feel a little uncomfortable writing those words, as with a reputation for meticulously attentive biodynamic viticulture but disinterested winemaking, with no temperature control, a committed ultra-low-sulphur regimen and a track record of bottle variation and oxidation, the fact that the wines seem full of potential now doesn't mean that they will still be shining in ten years time. My own experience of the wines in maturity, admittedly limited (I have tasted many more embryonic than geriatric examples), has given me more hits than misses though, so I think it is probably appropriate to report on the wines as I see them now, without the need for any of the obvious caveats about aging these wines beyond those I have already made.

Why such accusations (which come from many quarters) of disinterest you might ask? It has often been said that Joly is more interested in biodynamics and its application to viticulture, than the actual wine that results. Perhaps this reflects Joly's obsession with more pressing, global concerns, as detailed by Margaret Rand in her recent Decanter profile (July 2011, pp. 52-55, and certainly worth a read), in which Joly is laid bare for all to see. There is little discussion regarding wine - Margaret notes that she had been at the domaine over two hours before the words Chenin Blanc are heard - but plenty of detail from Joly on the forces and frequencies that influence our lives. He recounts his concerns about the earthquake-creating technology possessed by both Russian and American governments (hence the recent Japanese earthquake and tsunami), and his protective copper- and silver-lined sleeping bag which shields him from the adverse "frequencies and wavelengths" when staying in hotels. With such knowledge and understanding of the terrible forces all around us weighing down on Joly's shoulders there should be little wonder from us if the wines might not receive all the meticulous care and attention that they surely deserve.

The 2009 Vintage

The 2009 vintage was a high-alcohol affair for Nicolas & Virginie Joly, with all three of the wines officially registering at least 15%. First up in this mini-tasting was, as always, Les Vieux Clos, also known as Les Clos Sacrés in the USA. This is declared as 15% (it was 14.5% in 2008), and despite this it shows a good structure underpinning the perfumed weight of the wine, giving it a substantial but clean character. The Clos de la Bergerie is the only wine of the three in which the alcohol is less than it was last year, although that reflects a high level in 2008 (when it was declared as 15.5%) rather than a particularly low level this year, which is in fact 15%. The wine was less open and expressive than Les Vieux Clos, but with a really admirable structure on the palate.

The heavyweight of the showing was the 2009 Clos de la Coulée de Serrant, which brings a prodigious 15.5% declared alcohol to the table. Despite this the wine seems to have a very open and fruit-primary character at present, but with a firm structure. It is a very substantial mouthful, thanks I think to that thick seam of alcohol, but it has to be said that there is still a very polished style and also a good sense of balance here. That such a composition can be achieved when there is this much alcohol underpinning the wine is remarkable. Neither in this wine, nor in Les Vieux Clos or the Clos de la Bergerie, did I have any suggestion of the raw warmth that frequently alerts to a high alcohol level.

Nevertheless, such high alcohol levels may reveal themselves with time, as the fruit fades, adding another nuance of uncertainty to my feelings about what lies ahead for these wines. And yet, right now, these are bold, structured and impressive wines on which I wrote very positive tasting notes, and to which I awarded handsome scores. In fact, despite all my guarded caveats, I adored these wines! But these notes and scores are but a snapshot, a fleeting description of how these wines seem today (or at least earlier this year, as I wrote these notes in January), and I am reluctant to make any prediction on what they will be like tomorrow, next year, or during the years that follow. (17/8/11)

Nicolas Joly, January 2011 - Tasting Notes

These wines were tasted in January 2011. All my notes on the wines of Nicolas Joly and the Clos de la Coulée de Serrant, including those below, are collated under my Nicolas Joly profile. Click to locate stockists.