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Clos Roche Blanche Update, February 2010

"Human beings, who are almost unique in having the ability to learn from the experiences of others, are also remarkable for their apparent disinclination to do so".

So wrote the late Douglas Adams, not in any of his Hitchhiker's Guide novels, which are only naturally the first to spring to mind, but in Last Chance to See (1990), which Adams co-authored with environmentalist Mark Carwardine. This book was something of a diversion for Adams, a factual account - although liberally and yet sensitively laced with humour, as evinced by my selected quote above - of Adams' and Carwardine's journeys across the globe in search of near-extinct species such as the Yangtze River Dolphin (since believed to have disappeared from this earth forever) and Zaire gorillas.

Last Chance to See is not, despite its erstwhile subject matter, one of Adams' better known books. I recall when listening to Adams speak at a student society in the early 1990s that it never received a mention, as all attention - without any cause for surprise I suppose - was focused on Ford Prefect, Zaphod Beeblebrox, Arthur Dent and their many companions. At least that is how I remember it; it was twenty-or-so years ago, and I wasn't taking notes at the time! Nevertheless Last Chance was clearly a personal favourite for Adams, as he revealed in his posthumous biography and collection of essays The Salmon of Doubt (2002).

Last chance to see - or rather last chance to taste - is a phrase that might be applied to Clos Roche Blanche. Just as Adams and Carwardine helplessly observed exotic species, their numbers dwindling before their eyes, so too I watch this domaine seemingly shrink year on year. No, it is not yet extinct, and both Catherine Roussel and Didier Barrouillet are fighting fit, but as both are now in their fifties they have certainly been winding things down at Clos Roche Blanche in recent years. Once there were 28 hectares, but a large chunk was sold to Junko Arai in 2002, and thereafter until the 2008 vintage they were working with 18 hectares. By 2009 this was down by almost half, as the pair decided to rent out 8.5 hectares, the lucky beneficiary being their friend and fellow vigneron Noëlla Morantin. I had hoped to meet Morantin earlier this year, but my luck was out. Another day, I guess.

In the past I have been guilty of the human trait identified by Adams; despite an increasing awareness that, first, these wines were occasionally delicious, and secondly, that I should be drinking them rather than tasting them, I never seemed to get around to purchasing any bottles. In truth it wasn't so much that I was disinclined to look for them, it was more that the closest bottles I could find were in Paris, and the merchant in question wasn't interested in delivering to Edinburgh. But now, with the vineyard covering little more than one-third of the area it did eight years ago, these wines will become even more difficult to track down, it seems. So this summer I have an expedition booked; Mark Carwardine has refused my invitation, as he is currently tracking the Pig That Wants To Be Eaten, so I will set off alone to track down the elusive Clos Roche Blanche. I am sure I will find some in Touraine. Wish me luck! (2/6/10)

Clos Roche Blanche, February 2010 - Tasting Notes

The wines below were tasted in Angers at the Renaissance Tasting in February 2010. All my notes on the wines of Clos Roche Blanche, including those below, are collated under my Clos Roche Blanche profile. Click to locate stockists.

Clos Roche Blanche Sauvignon Blanc Cuvée No. 2 2009: To be bottled in March 2010. An intense nose here, very lively and wild in character, with some evocative fruit elements including notes of lime and greengage. The palate is very appealing, showing a good focus with a grippy edge to it as well. Lots of substance, and lots of structure too. Moderately short finish, but still a remarkable wine for the variety in question. I returned the next day and liked it even more, and my score reflects this second impression. 16.5+/20

Clos Roche Blanche Cuvée Gamay 2009: A very bright and stony style of Gamay on the nose, although it is highlighted by notes of rubber and volatility, thankfully underneath this there is a darker red fruit character. The palate shows a much fresher style, lively and well-defined, rather stony, lightly tannic and with a direct, linear midpalate. Overall, well composed, with a little length. 16+/20

Clos Roche Blanche Cuvée Cabernet 2009: A rather tight and withdrawn fruit character on the nose, not closed, more tensely coiled and young. It is also attractive, tinged with floral Cabernet Franc character. Clean and stylish, with a nice stony palate, defined and linear, with evident style despite the wine's very slim texture. Ripe tannins, gentle and balanced, fresh acidity, well balanced with the wine's substance. Really nice wine here. 17+/20

Clos Roche Blanche Cuvée Cot 2009: A great colour, glossy and bright, a mile away from the other wines tasted here. Great minerality, dense and warm, with compact fruit. A sweet character to the fruit on the palate, although it is lean and dry in terms of texture, with a stony-minerally style. Straight, defined, although more rounded with tannic substance in the finish. A good style. 16.5+/20

Clos Roche Blanche Sauvignon Blanc Cuvée No. 5 2008: A return to this wine one year on, as I first tasted the 2008 No. 5 at last year's Renaissance tasting. It has a much wilder and atypical nose than No. 2; does the fermentation in oak contribute to this characteristic? Attractive palate, structured and broad, mouthfilling rather than sharp, although it has a quite intense composition. Bright, commanding, lively, firm and substantial body. Good wine. 16.5+/20