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Charles Sydney Breakfast Tasting 2009 Part 2
Charles Sydney Breakfast Tasting 2009
New wines from courtier Charles Sydney:
Pt 1: Muscadet-Saumur
Pt 2: Touraine-Centre
Having started with Muscadet and Anjou-Saumur in part one, I continue here with my notes from Charles Sydney's Breakfast Tasting, which was held on the first morning of the 2009 Salon de Vins de Loire, now moving onto the wines of Touraine and the Central Vineyards.
Although 2008 was very difficult for the Nantais vignerons, there was less trouble upstream. The Sauvignon Blancs of Touraine were harvested at a more typical 40-50 hl/ha, whereas in Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé yields were down a little. But potential is high, as is the case with the dry and off-dry Chenins. As far as the sweet wines are concerned, however, it was unfortunate that as the botrytis appeared and the grapes began to dehydrate, the rains arrived, reducing the chances of making moelleux to rival the dry and demi-sec wines. Having said that I tasted too few wines to develop a strong view of the vintage, and indeed subsequent tastings during the Salon proper revealed some delicious wines in the 2008 vintage, from the likes of Jacky Blot and especially Huet. These are, of course, leading growers, so this may illustrate nothing more than the wisdom of following the best estates even in lesser vintages.
The red wines followed the theme which I introduced in part one, largely being of the 2007 vintage, and largely being lesser wines. This is a vintage where I would advise caution when buying. It is surely significant that the two most memorable red wines here were Henri Marionnet's Première Vendanges Gamay and Couly-Dutheil's Clos de l'Echo, representatives of the 2008 and 2005 vintages respectively, which eclipsed with ease their 2007 peers.
As I pointed out in part one, Charles Sydney is a courtier, brokering deals between growers and merchants rather than a merchant himself, so there is no one retail outlet where these wines can be sourced. As usual use the wine-searcher links to find local stockists. I have already mentioned the breakfast provided, and I have no other disclosure to make, nor any business dealings with Sydney that should be mentioned. (18/3/09)
Tasting Notes - Touraine and Central Vineyards
Tasted in February 2009. Click
to locate stockists.
Domaine du Salvard Cheverny 2008: A lovely, bright and fresh aromatic nose
here. Very green in terms of fruit-style, green peppers, quite expressive. Fuller and
more rounded on the palate than I expected, rather muted flavour too, good
acidity with a nice crispness though. A slight bitterness too which I like.
Good. 15-16/20
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Château Gaudrelle Vouvray Brut Millésime 2007: This has a remarkable nose, full of
rocks, dust and newsprint. The palate has great vivacity, with brilliant,
bright, clean and chalky-minerally character. A nice mousse too. There is a lot
to provide interest here. It would make a great summer aperitif. 16-17+/20
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Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Montlouis Rémus 2008: Tasted once at Charles
Sydney's tasting, and once a day or two later with Anne-Françoise Blot. A
clay-limestone terroir. This has gentle, stony, herb and apple fruit on
the nose. The palate is nicely composed, polished, with nice minerality. Ripe
fruit, lovely weight, and overall a delicious style. Really good potential here.
17-18+/20
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Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Vouvray Clos de la Bretonnière 2008: Tasted
once at Charles Sydney's tasting, and once a day or two later with
Anne-Françoise Blot. A clay-limestone terroir. A fine,
attractive, mineral-laced nose. Rather lighter than some on the palate, a touch
leafy, but quickly revealing sweet fruit beneath. This is rather ethereal in
style, with good substance too, backed up by fine acidity. Very
good indeed. 16.5-17.5+/20
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Domaine de la Taille aux Loups Montlouis Cuvée des Loups 2005:
This liquoreux cuvée is made from botrytised fruit and has 90 g/l
residual sugar. Fresh
honey and minerals on the nose here, gentle and integrated, this is certainly
stylish. Quite fat on the palate, rounded and muted, flattering, rather marrowy,
with bright and golden fruits. Good smoky grip in the finish. Lots of structure
here, and potential for further development yet. Good wine. 17+/20
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Domaine de la Charmoise Touraine Sauvignon Blanc 2008: A pungent style here, minerally
and chalky, underneath this green pepper and subtle fruit. Quite a soft and
rounded palate on entry, with lots of typical Sauvignon character. Good grip and
acidity too. This has a very nice style overall. 16-17/20
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Domaine de la Charmoise Touraine
Gamay
Première Vendange 2008: This wine has a
beautiful hue, so bright and vibrant. The nose is great too; there is a richness
to it, despite the fruit character being stony and firm, full of raspberry,
cherry and even a little rhubarb character. Lovely texture, great style, with
lively acids and even a little seam of tannin running underneath the fruit. How
can Gamay be this good? 16-17+/20
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Domaine de la Charmoise Touraine Vinifera
Cot 2007: A very dark hue here, with dark
and slightly funky fruit character on the nose. It has a good depth, with quite
sweet fruit, and a flattering palate which is soft with a little chewy tannin
underneath. There is also good acidity - although it is a little swamped by the
texture. Overall though - a good style with potential. 15-16+/20
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Charles Joguet Chinon Cuvée Terroir 2007: Stony and burnt fruit on the nose,
with roasted Provençale vegetables and tomatoes. Moderate weight on the palate,
which is surprising in light of the nose, but rather hollow on the midpalate.
Muted fruit. Certainly an interesting wine though. 13-14/20
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Charles Joguet Chinon Les Varennes du Grand Clos 2007: Minerally, with sweet
raspberry elements on the nose, but also a little trace of animal funk. Hints of
cat, alongside a little residual sulphur. Decent fruit weight here though,
rounded, a little cream even, but with bright and chalky acidity and some
peppery tannins. If that sulphur dissipates - as I think it will - this will be
a nice wine. 14.5-15.5+/20
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Charles Joguet Chinon Clos de la Dioterie 2007: A better depth of fruit here,
a sure step up from many of the other 2007s on show. There is a sweetness to the
fruit, which is dark and marked by crisp cranberry. As expected the palate is
textured, integrated, with some firm acidity. There is a touch of earthy
smokiness but otherwise this is pretty good. Not a great vintage for Dioterie,
but worth it if the price is right. 15.5-16.5+/20
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Yannick Amirault St Nicolas de Bourgueil La Source 2007: La Source is one of
Amirault's alluvial vineyards. The wine has an interesting nose, of rose petals,
with dry stony fruit; there is a little funkiness to it, but otherwise it seems
quite straight and attractive. The palate is light although there is some fruit
substance to it, although it is not the most concentrated wine. With a little
time this may come good I think. 14-15/20
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Yannick Amirault Bourgueil Le Grand Clos 2007: A clay terroir. Rather
muted fruit on the nose, with a gentle, slightly sweet, berry character. Nicely
put together on the palate, with rock dust minerality and a firm, hard style. It
all seems a bit muted and withdrawn at present, but there is potential here.
15-16/20
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Domaine de la Butte Bourgueil Le Haut de la Butte 2007: Tasted once at
Charles Sydney's tasting, and once a day or two later with Anne-Françoise Blot.
There is nice density of fruit here, with a smoky, meaty edge. Clean and a
little perfumed. The palate shows some substance and elegance, with ripe tannins
and a sweetness to the fruit. Chalky violets and a good texture. Attractive
wine. 15-16+/20
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Domaine de la Butte Bourgueil Mi-Pente 2007: Also
tasted twice, once at Charles Sydney's tasting, and once a day or two later with
Anne-Françoise Blot. The first time it seemed very reduced. The palate was grainy yet
lean, but I found it impossible to judge. With Anne-Françoise, however, it was
showing much better. Served from magnum. This has
beautifully poised fruit on the nose, elegant, with a fine, rather claretty
violet perfume. Nevertheless it is quite restrained on the palate, firm and
tannic, with a lot of structure underneath. Nice balancing acidity. This has
just bags of potential, but it needs a lot of time. A finely composed wine.
16-17+/20
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Couly-Dutheil Chinon Clos de l'Echo 2005: Rich and dark on the nose, yet also
seemingly distant and muted. Perhaps this 2005 is beginning to close down? A
creamy weight, gentle - like single cream rather than anything bigger - with a
harmonious texture and composition. There are good, firm acids and lots of
youthful grip, but some funky elements to it as well. A big style of wine, from
a great vintage, this stands out from the other wines tasted here by a mile. It
should be great, but with it closing down I have only given it tentative
range of possible scores. 17.5-18.5+/20
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Domaine Quintin Frères Rive Droits Coteaux du Giennois 2008: A nice minerally
character on the nose here, and a soft plumpness to it as well. On the palate it
has attractive fruit, a nice weight and crisp definition even if it has a rather
light and papery style. Nice wine. 15-16/20
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Domaine Michel Vattan Sancerre Calcaire 2008: Good gentle fruit on the nose
here. Soft, rounded, with good grip underneath. A moderate concentration, but
there is a good midpalate dept and overall this wine holds some appeal. Lots of
fresh acid. Good wine. 16-17/20
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Domaine Michel Vattan Sancerre Argile 2008: A touch more expressive than the
Calcaire on the nose. An elegant minerally quality, full and flavoursome on the
palate. Weighty but fresh, with a good minerally grip. Overall an attractive
wine. This has very good potential. 16-17/20
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Henri Bourgeois Sancerre Grande Réserve 2008: Full fruit on the nose,
smoky and even a touch creamy, with yellow fruit characteristics. A lovely
palate follows, with a nice smokiness to it, and a fine, sappy substance and
rocky, dusty minerality. Lots of potential here. 16.5-17.5/20
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François Crochet Sancerre 2008: Attractive character on the nose, which has
lemon and herb fruit, and a little suggestion of richness. But it is fresh too.
A nice weight, but plenty of good acidity, chalky minerals and green fruit
character. Overall a good wine. 15.5-16.5/20
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François Crochet
Sancerre Les Amoureuses 2008: Oak-fermented. This has an
appealing and harmonious character on the nose which carries through onto the
palate. Fresh, with good fruit density, and fine substance. Rounded and
polished, although it remains brightly styled. Really very good indeed.
17-18+/20
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Vincent Pinard Sancerre Cuvée Nuance 2008: Oak-fermented. This has a lively
fresh fruit richness on the nose, with an expressive swirl of cream and lemon. A
fine palate too; youthful, with a gentle style at first, but a firmer and
richer midpalate. Just a little creaminess comes in at the finish. Good acidity.
This is very attractive. 17-18+/20
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Vincent Pinard Sancerre Cuvée Harmonie 2008: Oak-fermented - and the
nose clearly displays this fact. Honey-nut aromas which dominate the fruit. The
palate has a fine quality though, and here the oak is less obvious. Beautifully
textured, with more evident fruit here, and plenty of appeal. It needs time for
the aromas to integrate, but this could be very good. 17-18+/20
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La Tour St-Martin Menetou-Salon Honorine 2008: Oak-fermented. Lovely
honey-tinged fruit here reflecting the fermentation vessels, but it is
well-judged and stylish. The palate is very soft and flattering, quite rich in
style, with good grip beneath it though. And good acidity too. It has a nice,
warm quality to it. 17-18/20
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- See part one for my notes on Muscadet, Anjou and Saumur.
