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Charles Sydney Breakfast Tasting 2009 Part 1
I kicked
off my three days of tasting at the 2009 Salon de Vins
de Loire at Charles Sydney's Breakfast Tasting, a parallel event held just
across the road. The venue was the Brit Hotel Acropole, a strange little
roadside inn which seems to be dedicated to the glories of ancient Greece,
complete with gigantic faux columns. Inside, however, all was decidedly
French, especially the breakfast which included some fabulous, melt-in-the-mouth
boudins noirs, tasty lardons and all manner of fresh breads and pastries.
Oh, and there was some wine as well. Mustn't forget that.
In fact there was an awful lot of wine, so much so that in my eagerness to do each bottle sampled appropriate justice, I tasted probably only half of what was on show. I was soon overtaken by the majority of other attendees, largely trade buyers who quickly slurped and spat, making very cursory notes to back up their buying decisions. Others were perhaps just looking to inform their overall opinions of the 2007 and 2008 vintages.
I have divided my notes up geographically, starting today with the vin
de pays, Muscadet and Anjou-Saumur. I wasn't sure what to
expect with the 2008 Muscadets, as the region was hit hard by frost, reducing
yields dramatically; many vignerons brought in only 10-30 hl/ha, with a few individual
growers/vineyards in single figures, against a permitted yield of 55 hl/ha.
Nevertheless what has been made appears, based admittedly on this minuscule sample,
to be of good quality. When it comes to the 2008 Chenin Blancs of Anjou
and Saumur, again a small sample, I also found a number of good wines, with a
particular nod towards the embryonic but very promising wines from
Pithon-Paillé. The reds from the same regions, however, were less exciting.
These were largely from the 2007 vintage, one characterised by summer rain,
overcast skies and even a little hail; sadly some wines were true to the
vintage, with stretched out fruit, lacking in freshness and vibrancy. There are
some good wines, with Chateau de Targé's Quintessence the most convincing here
by a long shot, although there were also decent efforts from the likes of
Domaine des Rochelles and Chateau de Hureau.
Charles Sydney (seen above, savouring the 2008 harvest) is a courtier, brokering deals between growers and merchants rather than a merchant himself, so there is no one retail outlet where these wines can be sourced. As usual use the wine-searcher links to find local stockists. I have already mentioned the breakfast provided, and I have no other disclosure to make, nor any business dealings with Sydney that should be mentioned. In part two I continue my notes with the reds and whites of Touraine and the Central vineyards. (17/3/09)
Tasting Notes - Vin de Pays, Muscadet, Anjou-Saumur
Tasted in February 2009. Click
to locate stockists.
Ampelidae Marigny Neuf Sauvignon Blanc (VdP du Val de Loire) 2008: A very
fresh and green nose here, grassy, with a little minerality too. A good palate,
gentle but with bright acidity and a well-judged weight. A good, crisp,
minerally midpalate. This is really attractive. 16-17/20
Ampelidae Marigny Neuf Chardonnay (VdP du Val de Loire) 2008: Clean, rather
papery, green and slightly grassy. The palate is gentle, soft and chalky, with
quite diffuse fruit but deeply buried acidity. A rather neutral style which
intrinsically is a decent wine, but it says little of the Loire to me. 14-15/20
Ampelidae Le K Cabernet Sauvignon (VdP de la Vienne) 2005: This wine has a
very minerally style on the nose, with a rather herby character too. There are
plenty of interesting elements here, a little funky, but also earthy with notes
of rock dust. A nice weight, well balanced, with firm acids and a moderate
texture. There is a lot of substance here, although it does also have a crisp,
herby, minerally seam. 15.5-16.5+/20
Christophe Gadais Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie 2008:
A nice, lively nose here, minerally, quite ripe, characterful, expressive and
open. A good character to the palate, quite firm, with a stern grip and a hard
and stony finish. Nice, firm style. 15.5-16.5/20
Domaine de la Chauvinière Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie
2008: A very papery, lightly mineral nose, but very firm and zippy on entry.
There is acidity to the fore, with sharp chalky minerals, and a hard, steely
character. Lean in the midpalate, it gives more towards the finish. Overall,
nice. 15-16/20
Sauvion du Cléray Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie 2008: A
stylish nose
here, clean, with sea salt and thyme nuances over chalk dust. Quite a soft start
on the palate, initially lean and a little minerally, but more generous in the
middle. It finishes in a firm fashion. A nicely styled wine. 15.5-16.5+/20
Chateau du Cléray Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur lie 2008: Clean lemony
fruit on the nose here. On the palate it starts off with a composed, finely
integrated style at first, showing zippy vivacity but polished fruit at the same
time. A gentle and stylishly poised wine, with a good mineral punch in the
middle. Good potential here. 16.5-17.5+/20
Pithon-Paillé Anjou 2008: Tasted twice, once with Charles
Sydney and once with the Pithon-Paillé family. I have combined my
two notes. An early sample. A négoce wine, blended from up to four
terroirs. It has light apple and pear fruit on the nose, gentle and
fresh, aromatic and a touch exotic, with hints of sage. The palate is fresh,
crisp, mineral, bright and full of character. This is a vivacious wine with
fresh, sappy, grippy fruit backed up by fine acidity. A very good depth of
substance; great potential here. 16-17+/20
Pithon-Paillé Savennières 2008: Tasted twice, once with
Charles Sydney and once with the Pithon-Paillé family. I have combined
my two notes. An early sample. The family own only 0.25 hectares of
vines here (in the Roches-aux-Moines cru) which is blended into this
négoce wine. Like the Anjou this also shows wonderful freshness and
minerals, with a very light, elegant and perfumed style. The palate
doesn't disappoint; it is beautifully defined, full and sappy, with a
firm, spicy-peppery grip underneath delicious white pear and apple
fruits. A hugely fresh and vivacious wine, with massive substance and
plenty of appeal for me. Fine potential. 17-18+/20
Chateau de Fesles Anjou Blanc 2007: Rather gentle and honeyed fruit on the
nose, with a gently plump style following on the palate. Diffuse, straw and
paper character, underpinned by decent acidity. Clean, neutral, a little more
hearty and rustic towards the finish. A decent wine. 13.4-14.5/20
Chateau de Fesles Anjou Blanc La Chapelle 2007: This wine has a much more
appealing character on the nose, minerally and straw-like, with a little touch
of honey. Better concentration, supple weight, good acidity bringing up the
rear. Overall a nice character and a pretty style. Good. 15.5-16.5/20
Chateau de Fesles Bonnezeaux 2005: The nose here is quite gorgeous, showing
overt botrytis character over that lovely mineral-honey combination that you can
find in Bonnezeaux. The palate is soft, rich, but well endowed with balancing
acidity. There is a somewhat lighter minerality and overall it is a little more
soft-focus than I expected. I suspect it may firm up a little in time though.
Good potential here. 16.5+/20
Domaine des Forges Savennières Roches-aux-Moines 2007: The nose here is
showing some gentle fruit, rather muted in style, but there is at least the
suggestion of harmony. A similarly soft style on the palate, which has moderate
weight and substance at best. The flavours seem quite diffuse, and almost
paradoxically there is a hard acidity underneath it all. Cleanly done though.
14-15/20
Domaine des Forges Coteaux du Layon St-Aubin 2008: Minerally and chalky,
papery, not really a huge suggestion of sweetness here. Fat palate, moderate
acidity, a trace of sulphur, rounded and certainly in possession of some
promise. It needs to come together a little more, but could be good. 14-15?/20
Domaine des Forges Chaume 2008: Rather muted, minerally, with more overt
sweetness here than the last wine. Still fairly restrained though, although
there is a little botrytis to it I think, over a hard core of acidity. Papery
sweet finish, attractive, minerally and bright, with a nice vibrancy to the
finish. This is young, but it is full of potential. Good. 15-16+/20
Domaine Cady Sélection de Grains Nobles Volupté 1997: A rich and deeply
coloured wine, with honey and mealy orange fruit. Earthy and mineral, and rather
voluptuous (perhaps unsurprisingly given the name). Broad, sweet honeyed fruit
with a good acid core, and a huge, fat, opulent style. Smoky minerals abound.
Very attractive and certainly ready for drinking. 17.5/20
Domaine des Rochelles Anjou Rouge L'Ardoise 2008: This wine has some
lean and stony fruit on the nose, with a very gentle character overall. The
palate has decent concentration, with some grip, tannins with a rather hard and
rustic character, but it seems a touch diffuse. Decent wine. 14.5-15.5/20
Domaine des Rochelles Anjou-Villages Brissac 2006: A richer colour here than
some other wines, and darker fruit on the nose. It still has a roasted herb
character, but it isn't overtly green, although it does have some smoky, burnt
fruit. Nice texture, with lots of grip and acid underneath, and a clean finish.
needs a couple of years, but might just be worth it. 14.5-15.5+/20
Domaine des Rochelles Anjou-Villages Brissac La Croix de Mission 2007: The
fruit here is dark and stony in character, with a touch of roasted herb. It has
a nice weight on entry, with a supple style, followed up by a much firmer
midpalate. Rather firm and potent acidity, which dominates the midpalate. It has
a hard middle and finish, but in its favour it has a clean style. 14.5-15.5/20
Chateau Yvonne Saumur Blanc 2007: A muted, steely nose, with just a little
funky reduction alongside. Good weight on the palate, although not very
expressive in terms of flavour. Quite loose-knit, diffuse, papery but there is
potential here if this all comes together. Could be an interesting wine.
15.5-16.5?/20
Chateau Yvonne Saumur-Champigny La Folie 2007: A funky, animalistic nose.
Gentle and composed texture, quite silky-smooth in fact. Rather muted fruit
character though, but there are good points, in terms of texture and balance.
The nose is a little awkward though; perhaps this will come together with time?
13-14+/20
Chateau de Targé Saumur-Champigny 2007: Quite a pale hue, and an unusual
nose, with a burnt feel to the fruit, and vegetal, tomato characteristics. Is it
just under-ripe? The palate is diffuse, lacking in vigour, and there is a touch
of oiliness to the mouthfeel. This doesn't excite me. 12.5-13.5/20
Chateau de Targé Saumur-Champigny Quintessence 2007: Rather attractive fruit
here, sweet but muted. Just a hint of reduction too. Good balance on the palate
though, with grip and acidity, but a gentle creamy texture. It doesn't seem to
be very expressive at present though, but this will come with time. There are
clearly a handful of very good wines in this vintage, and I think this could be
one of them. 17-18+/20
Chateau du Hureau Saumur-Champigny Tuffe 2007: Burnt, under-ripe, stretched
out fruit here. Some weight on the palate, although the style is rather green,
with apple-skin acidity. It has some flesh to it, but it is the burnt-fat
flavour that seems to dominate. 13-14/20
Chateau du Hureau Saumur-Champigny Les Fevettes 2007: Cleanly styled on the
nose, with raspberry fruit. There is a little tomato leaf as well, but in its
favour it has freshness and brightness. The palate is quite textured, perhaps a
touch diffuse, but with some nice, chalky-smoky red fruits alongside more of the
tomato. But there are enough good points here to make this worthwhile. 15-16+/20
