Home > Vintages and Regions > Other Wines > Chapoutier Portfolio Tasting, 2011

Chapoutier Portfolio Tasting, 2011

It was the morning after the night before; day one of my trip into Chapoutier World had been marked by an evening of motorised antics, deafening music, late-night Champagne-sabrage and - of course - an opportunity to taste some amazing wines. Now it was day two, and I found myself suffering a rude early-morning awakening. Lying in my hotel bed, I slowly forced my unwilling and bleary eyes open; checking the time, I saw it was about 6am. No alarm had sounded; what was I doing awake now, after what could hardly be described as an 'early night'?

It only took a few more moments to realise what had disturbed my sleep. Outside, a curious noise was waxing and waning, as the source - whatever it might be - first came nearer to my hotel, forcing the windows in my room to rattle momentarily, and then was more distant again. It was a clattering-roar, not merely loud but also annoying high-pitched and rasping, the sort of sound you might expect a sci-fi-inspired 30-metre long mutant wasp to make. It had to be a helicopter, and this close to the Hill of Hermitage (my hotel was just along the road from the hill, literally a minute's walk away) that could mean only one thing; spraying - herbicides, pesticides or similar - from the air.

After breakfast, and with half an hour to kill before our departure for the day's appointments, I wandered along to the railway station that sits at the foot of the hill, and admired the aerial antics of this giant motorised wasp, better known as a Bell 47G, complete with fishbowl cockpit. It swept over the famous chapel (above) and through the little valleys and gulleys on the hillside with great accuracy, turning on a sixpence at the end of each pass. The pilot, a military man who provides this service to a consortium of the major growers on the hillside (except Chapoutier of course, who are biodynamic) in his spare time, was clearly highly skilled. I rued the fact I had left my camera at the hotel. I consoled myself with the thought that, from this distance, the helicopter would have been little more than a speck against the sky anyway.

Helicopter Attack

A few hours later I and a few others found ourselves up on the hill, first looking at the vines in Le Méal, before then moving round to where the famous chapel is located, nearer the west end of the hill, to take a look at the vines in L'Hermite and Le Pavillon (in Les Bessards). And happily the pilot was continuing his work, guiding his helicopter up and down the slopes with pinpoint accuracy. Every now and again the machine would settle up on the very summit where a white van was parked, I suspect so that they could refill with more of the spray, or perhaps to refuel, although I wondered if the stops weren't too frequent for that.

Standing on a ridge just below the chapel, I saw the machine lift off from its hilltop position once again, and begin yet another descent down the hill in our general direction. "Perfect", I said to myself; this time I had my camera with me, and I was close enough to get a decent picture. I knelt down to steady my position and zoomed in on the little plastic bubble as it swooped down the hillside. The body of the machine grew larger in my view finder, and I snapped a couple of shots as it dipped into the valley in front of us and then started to climb towards us.

And that is when I looked over the top of the camera.

And that was when I realised just how much larger the helicopter looked with the naked eye compared with through the viewfinder.

I do have some recollection of what happened next, although I will be honest and confess it is somewhat blurred. My brain quickly computed that this machine, which was actually slightly below us in the dip, was climbing towards our little group. Indeed, it was heading straight for us. This instinctive recognition of impending danger was coincident with a four-letter expletive bursting forth from my lips. A microsecond later and the situation was even more clear - this flier was not heading over us, it seemed, but straight for us. Or at least for me! Take cover!

Involuntarily I dived forward onto all fours, my hands sliding in the dry dirt. This evasive action might be rather uncomfortable, I thought, but it was without doubt preferable to being obliterated by the impact of the helicopter. No matter how fragile that glass bubble cockpit might look I knew I would come off worse in a collision; I would be smashed or squashed, if not sliced twenty times by those rotating blades. And then the noise was suddenly deafening, surely ten times the number of decibels that had rattled my hotel-room windows just a few hours earlier. Glancing upwards, I had a close up view of the underside of a Bell 47G as it passed overhead, filling my field of vision. And then I saw sunlight again. Suddenly, there was an undeniable thumping tachycardia in my chest, the result of a sadly delayed 'fight or flight' adrenaline surge. And then, realisation quickly dawned; there had, of course, been no real likelihood of collision; this pilot was clearly far too skilled for that. We had been 'buzzed' in a mock helicopter attack, and I had bit dirt as a result.

I suddenly felt very foolish, as I spat the dust from my mouth. I quickly stood up, ready to be on the receiving end of some derisory laughter and finger-pointing from my four companions. Expecting to see their faces marked at least by a mixture of bemusement and embarrassment at my strange behaviour, I turned around. And there they were.

Sprawled on the ground.

Biting dirt, just like me.

I later learned that the pilot has a reputation for buzzing walkers and workers on the hill, and we were just the latest in a long list of victims who have 'bit the dirt' on the Hill of Hermitage. I was relieved to have survived the experience, but I have to admit I was also relieved that I hadn't been alone in taking evasive action. There's some comfort in knowing there was a 'group response' to the attack. I may have looked like an idiot as I lay sprawled on the ground, but that's OK....so did everybody else!

Having recovered from our hillside adventure our little group returned to Tain l'Hermitage and to the Chapoutier offices in particular. The previous day we had focused on the Sélections Parcellaires, but today we would be tasting the remaining wines from Chapoutier, in other words the négoce side of the business, and all the wines from Chapoutier's more distant operations, particularly in Roussillon and Australia.

Chapoutier: The Portfolio Wines

Although the true joy of Chapoutier comes, in my opinion, with the Sélections Parcellaires, unblended cuvées sourced from individual plots of vines on the hill of Hermitage (or Ermitage, if you will) owned by Michel, these wines are admittedly the pinnacle of Michel's achievements, and their prices do tend to reflect this. Nevertheless, there are many more accessible levels to the Chapoutier portfolio, below the lofty eyries of the Sélections Parcellaires, which are worth exploring. Here there are wines from the top appellations of the Rhône Valley, many but not all made from biodynamically tended vines akin to the Sélections Parcellaires, as well as forays into the Ardeche, Côtes du Roussillon and even Australia.

The tasting notes presented below were largely taken at a dedicated tasting of the entire Chapoutier portfolio on the second day of my visit, although I have also included a couple of notes on wines experienced over dinner, and where this is the case I have made reference to this in my note. Although I tasted the wines in an order derived by style, starting with the white wines before progressing to the reds, leaving the most exalted appellations until the very end, I have ordered the wines here according to origin and position within the portfolio. First up, those wines from the Prestige range, which represents the top layer beneath the Sélections Parcellaires. Then comes the Tradition range, taking in lesser appellations although there is certainly some cross-over between these first two categories, and finishing up with the Discovery range, featuring wines from further afield. Finally, a few esoteric end-of-meal offerings make up the Specialities section, with sweet wines from Banyuls and Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, a straw wine christened Le Coufis, and eau-de-vie.

From among the Prestige selection I found the Hermitage Chante-Alouette, in the 2007 vintage, by far the most convincing white wine, with all the substance, grip and length that the appellation should be providing. It is certainly a worthy and good-value alternative to the Ermitage offerings that constitute the Sélections Parcellaires. The 2009 Condrieu Invitare was also putting on a decent show, as was the 2007 Hermitage Monier de la Sizeranne a fact about which I was very pleased, as I have had variable experiences with this cuvée in the past. Sometimes it has been good, but sometimes it is rather less inspiring, such as in the 2000 and 1996 vintages. In this context, it displayed a fair depth and concentration, although it should be noted that this only served to highlight further the deficiencies in the Côte-Rôtie Les Bécasses and Cornas Les Arènes, both also from the 2007 vintage, that I tasted immediately before it.

Looking down a layer, to the Tradition range, there were some surprises here, in the shape of the Saint-Peray Les Tanneurs and Crozes-Hermitage La Petite Ruche, both in the 2009 vintage. The former shows there is certainly strength in the white side of the Chapoutier portfolio, at all levels, whereas the latter impressed particularly with its fresh, bright and lifted style. Some others, including the Gigondas and Saint Joseph Deschants, wines which perhaps should have possessed more impact than they turned out to have, were merely serviceable.

Further afield, the Discovery range demonstrates that there is good work ongoing at Bila-Haut, Chapoutier's Roussillon property, as the definition and structure of some of these wines, in particular Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Blanc and the VIT, were very admirable. From Australia, the Domaine Tournon wines were certainly more convincing - especially the Shays Flat Vineyard and Landsborough Valley cuvées - than the Terlato & Chapoutier wines. In the case of the latter, whereas the entry-level cuvée seemed serviceable enough, the rather special Malakoff just seemed overworked and overdone to me. But the Tournon wines certainly hit the spot.

Finally, from the Specialities range, Le Coufis, a vin de paille from the Ardeche - from where the Chapoutier family originated - made using Viognier and bottled as a vin de table. This was without doubt a fascinating wine to encounter, and its birth was certainly worthwhile. Nevertheless, I found the flavour profile to be too dependent on intense, pastille-like fruit for it to appease my palate, without the nervosity or complexity I look for it a sweeter wine. Nevertheless I applaud its creation and would certainly be interested in trying other vintages. (4/8/11)

Chapoutier Portfolio Tasting - Tasting Notes

Tasted in May 2011. Click to locate stockists.

Chapoutier Condrieu Invitare 2009: From a granite terroir. A small amount of the wine has undergone malolactic fermentation. Not all that expressive on the nose, despite Condrieu's reputation as an aromatic variety. A touch of butter here though, diacetyl from the malolactic perhaps, giving the wine a milky edge. Rather polished feel to it as well though. Slightly disparate on the palate, with a bigger substance to it than I expected. And surprisingly an appealing core of acidity at the middle. Overall rather a broad style, long too, composed but with a focus away from the aromatic Condrieu fruit. 16.5/20

Chapoutier Hermitage Chante-Alouette 2007: Biodynamic, sourced from a section of vines within L'Hermite. Rather a golden hue here. A rich nose, with lightly honeyed fruit, certainly an aromatic profile that suggests a good amount of stuffing here. Concentrated on the palate, with a good fruit essence but a serious structure. It shows quite a substantial presence at first, revealing a greater grip in the middle, and also some bright acidity here. There is a lovely substance to this, and long, firm, grippy and substantial finish. Very attractive. 17.5/20

Chapoutier Hermitage Chante-Alouette 2008: Tasted at dinner. Biodynamic, sourced from a section of vines within L'Hermite. This vintage has an appealing array of very polished golden fruits on the nose, showing a lightly matchsticky character betraying a reductive philosophy, but overall this is clean and evocative, not reduced. A good tension on the palate, fine with lots of acid and grip, although the open character found on the nose does not wholly translate through onto the palate. Broad yet fine, and full of potential, although I think the 2007 pips it for me. 17/20

Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Les Meysonniers 2008: This is 13%, and produced from old Syrah vines, a mix of Chapoutier and purchased fruit. Both oak and concrete fermentation vessels are used. Surprisingly a rather pale hue for the variety. And it is not very expressive, showing some unexpected calcareous, seashell elements, and it also seems a touch vegetal. There follows a very lean palate, with a pretty sharp character. The structure and substance does build in the middle though. It don't find the necessary fruit to fill this out properly. Although showing a peppery freshness it lacks character and seems rather flat in terms of affect. Having said that, some fellow tasters really liked it, so there must be something here. 14/20

Chapoutier Châteauneuf du Pape La Bernadine 2008: This comes in at 14%, officially declared at least, and is predominantly Grenache. There is really rather fresh and bright fruit here, albeit with a toffee coat, and this is soon joined by touches of nut and raisin too. On the palate it has a polished substance, a stony fruit ball, showing some meaty and spicy elements alongside. Overall I find this to have a hot, baked, raisin and nut character, and it is clearly not made with my palate in mind. A very warm climate wine...with a touch of oxidation too? 13/20

Chapoutier Cornas Les Arènes 2007: From a small plot of Chapoutier vines close to the St-Pierre chapel, a granite terroir, plus purchased fruit of course. This example of this famed appellation has some dense and smoky fruit on the nose, although alongside I also detect a slightly green and vegetal edge. It has a grippy style on the palate, with a nicely rounded fruit quality, polished and imposing. Nevertheless it does also have some green flavours reminiscent of green peppercorn. This seems substantial, with a deeper grip than expected, but also a suggestion of elegance. An attractive wine in itself, but not one that I find to be very typical of the appellation. 15/20

Chapoutier Côte-Rôtie Les Bécasses 2007: This cuvée is mostly Syrah, with a 3% dash of Viognier. It is predominantly made using purchased fruit, usually with a small amount from Chapoutier's own vineyards thrown into the mix. It is rather smoky and vegetal, with hints of angelica, giving it a sweet but not fresh feel. The palate is polished and grippy, with full and bright fruit coming through in the middle, and there is an appealing and long substance to it. There is a roasted, burnt earth character which I find suggestive of the appellation, but the vigour and integration I want just isn't here. Attractive, but lacking in excitement. 15/20

Chapoutier Hermitage Monier de la Sizeranne 2007: This cuvée is the largest volume wine from Hermitage in the Chapoutier portfolio, and is sourced largely from Les Bessards, with the possible addition of Les Greffieux and Le Méal. A reasonably dense fruit character on the nose here. There is an attraction here on the palate; the fruit character has the density and solid character of Hermitage, and there is a supple character which is more seductive than the preceding two wines. Aromatically, there are scents of lightly roasted fruit which are at least convincing. Better composition and vigour here, with a good structure to it. Overall, the structure is well covered, and the wine has balance. Attractive. 16.5/20

Chapoutier Saint Peray Les Tanneurs 2009: Chapoutier own 1.5 hectares of vines here, and may also buy in for blending with their own produce. The terroir is limestone and granite, and the blend essentially 100% Marsanne, although there may be a little Roussanne depending on the vintage. One-quarter of the wine has seen some old oak. A bright fruit style on the nose, with just a lightly vegetal tinge to the fruit, giving it a sagey, herby character. Bright, fresh, quite coolly structured, fresh, balanced, open and relaxed. The same herby elements coming through on the palate, leading into an attractive spice and grip in the finish. This is good. 16.5/20

Chapoutier Côtes du Rhône Belleruche 2009: A widely distributed, entry-level cuvée. This has some sweet and spicy fruit on the nose, with more than a touch of medicinal cherry. Nevertheless, it has quite an attractive palate, showing freshness and some poise. Here the cherry fruit takes on a more burnt note, and lots of spice and grip, slowly becoming less medicinal and fresher in style with some air contact. A fresh, stony edge to the fruit. This is surprisingly attractive overall, and offers decent value at the sort of price this is knocked out at. 14.5/20

Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage La Petite Ruche 2009: An example of this appellation at a level below the Varonniers and Meysonniers bottlings, this sees no oak at all, with both fermentation and élevage in concrete. Fresh, crunchy cherry fruit on the nose, with a beautifully clean character. This fresh style continues on the palate, which is lifted and bright. The structure is light, with a fine and elegant composition. This is all wrapped up in an attractive and very appealing, fruit-orientated style. Good value for money I would think. 16.5/20

Chapoutier Saint Joseph Deschants 2009: This wine, sourced from 7.5 hectares of Syrah around Tournon and Mauves, comes in at a declared 13%. The fermentation is in concrete, but there is some use of oak for the élevage. It has attractive if rather restrained nose, and on the palate it shows an appealing, gentle, quite elegant structure, with just a light seam of tannin. Quite a crunchy style. Polished and stylish although with a very light frame. An attractive wine with a fresh and bright substance. Good, albeit in this lighter style. 15.5/20

Chapoutier Gigondas 2009: This is 100% Grenache. I don't find it to be that expressive on the nose, although with a little time it does open out to reveal some supple fruit, quite restrained and stylish. There are some notes of perfumed cherry and raspberry. It has quite a fresh structure to the palate, appropriate for the wine's appealing, light-footed style, with crunchy fruit underneath. It does have a rather tight, burnt fruit finish though. It is attractive, but maybe not what Gigondas lovers really want? 15/20

Domaine des Granges de Mirabel Viognier de l'Ardeche 2010: From vines planted at an altitude of 350m, on volcanic soils, tended biodynamically. Some is fermented in barrel, but most is managed steel. Bottled in spring. A perfumed style but here softer, than some comparable wines, with a soapy, perfumed nose. There is only moderate intensity in terms of fruit character, but there is lots of bright structure to it, and certainly some minerality here. There's a good frame to this. Overall, really appealing. 16/20

Domaine Bila-Haut, in Roussillon, brings a southern flavour to the Chapoutier portfolio. The estate amounts to more than 70 hectares, with more than 10 hectares planted to vines. These were, in accordance with Chapoutier's philosophies, converted to biodynamic viticulture in 2000. This was rescinded in 2004, however, following the use of chemicals to treat Eudemis infestation in one section of the vineyard. The larvae of the Eudemis moth have a voracious appetite for, what else, but grapes. Today some sections are managed along organic lines, and some on biodynamic trial once again, without certification.

Domaine de Bila-Haut Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Blanc (Côtes du Roussillon) 2010: A blend of Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris and Maccabeu, grown on granite, chalk and clay, fermented in stainless steel. This has a soft, feminine style of perfumed fruit on the nose, although it is very young. A minerally tinge, and a soft volcanic edge to it provide some interest. Quite a fresh and vigorous style on the palate though, minerally and rather grippy. Fresh, with decent acids despite that soft fruit character on the nose. Still rather spritzy on the palate. Quite a reserved fruit character overall, more stony than I expected. In the end, a really nice wine. 16/20

Domaine de Bila-Haut Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Rouge (Côtes du Roussillon-Villages) 2009: From several plots, of gneiss and granite terroirs. A blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan. This has a rather furry-fruit character here, with a touch of toffee sur-maturité too. It is sweetly textured at the start although more firm, structured and savoury through the middle. A supple substance to it, good flesh and grip, and plenty of vigour here, although the fruit seems a little less fresh than I would like. The finish is grippy and bright. You can sense the warmth here though, and I see that the alcohol is 14.5%. 14/20

Domaine de Bila-Haut Occultum Lapidem (Côtes du Roussillon-Villages Latour de France) 2008: From a gneiss terroir. Latour de France is a regional village designation, not just marketing! This sees 50% oak. A slightly meaty and gamey aspect to the fruit here, along with some rubbery elements also. A polished start on the palate, quite supple, bitter and grippy, but then it clearly display that firm rubbery element again. Quite a rustic style overall, with big tannins and a drying feel to it. 13.5/20

Domaine de Bila-Haut Lesquerda (Côtes du Roussillon-Villages Lesquerde) 2008: This cuvée certainly has a fresher feel than the Occultum Lapidem. This sees just 10% oak. A much cleaner character on the nose, quite perfumed in fact. Quite polished and fresh, a cleanly framed wine, with great acidity here backing this up. There is also some lovely fresh fruit vibrancy in the end. The style here is much more convincing and to my taste. Long and crunchy. Good wine. 16.5/20

Domaine de Bila-Haut VIT (Côtes du Roussillon-Villages Latour de France) 2008: The VIT stands for Visitare Interiore Terrae, it seems. A lovely bright colour in the glass, with a concentrated and perfumed character aromatically. Polished fruit on the palate, with a slightly sweet style. Rather a supple composition, nicely integrated, with good grip to it, and piles of welcome, forceful acidity too. There is a lot of structure here behind this gently polished facade, composed of ripe and slightly grainy tannins. Ripe and long. Quite a substantial wine, in need of cellaring I think. The alcohol is declared as 14.5%, yet this doesn't come across at all. 16.5/20

Michel Chapoutier has a pioneering spirit, and has had a foothold in Australia since the late 1990s with Mount Benson Wines. Today, with the acquisition of the Shays Flat and Landsborough Valley vineyards, this has developed into Domaine Tournon

Domaine Tournon Shiraz (Victoria) 2008: A very lightly gamey nose here, with a touch of saddle leather too, along with brighter notes of orange zest and cinnamon. On the palate it has a fresh start, quite tingly with acid in fact, but with a supple weight behind it. It is grippy, freshly structured, but with a leathery edge to the fruit. Firm and solid, rather than bright, but nevertheless there is something appealing here. Good. 15/20

Domaine Tournon Shays Flat Vineyard Shiraz (Pyrenees) 2009: This has sweet fruit on the nose, with a touch of toffee. Dark fruits, scents of black liquorice, still a touch of saddle leather too though. Quite perfumed in a way despite that. Sweet and pure, with new oak around the edge. The palate has a nice density to it and there is concentrated fruit, still a lot of oak all around though. An attractive, very solid style. Gently long. A good wine, but one that needs time for integration of the oak. 16.5/20

Domaine Tournon Landsborough Valley Shiraz (Pyrenees) 2009: This is rather floral on the nose, showing some fresh fruit, with a lightly smoky character. The palate is certainly seductive, polished, quite refined in fact. A lovely frame to this fresh, open and evocative wine. This is approachable and cleanly balanced through into the finish. And it has some length too. Overall, this is very impressive. 17/20

Terlato & Chapoutier is a much more recent venture, working with Anthony and Bill Terlato, Chapoutier's American distributors.

Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier Shiraz Viognier (Victoria) 2008: Dark and smoky, but with a lifted and lightly floral streak as you might expect from the inclusion of the Viognier. Quite intense but with a light-footed feel to it. It shows a fresh style at first, then it goes quite smoky and a little fatter though the middle, showing a lot of grip and a rather disparate character, with crunchy tannin at the finish and a rather sharp, incisive feel to it. There is surely some potential here, but it needs time. 15/20

Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier Malakoff (Victoria) 2007: This is dark and very smoky, showing little else other than oak on the nose, with a very intrusive burnt and toasty feel. There is a sense of chocolate to it as well, and yet also a lifted freshness behind. But it is the stewed fruit, hot mint and chocolate that wins out aromatically, and I get the same on the palate. Overall this feels rather baked and over-worked. 13/20

Chapoutier Le Coufis (Vin de France) NV: Tasted at dinner. Not vintage designated, but Lot: 2007 makes clear when the fruit for this straw wine was harvested. Chapoutier does not refer to it as a vin de paille, reserving that terminology for Hermitage, but that is what it is. A golden hue in the glass, with an intense, fruit-pastille aroma. The palate carries the same characteristics, very intense, sweet and textured, perfumed and grippy, but with oil-sweet fruit dominating. Interesting but not imbued with the complexity or nervosity I look for in sweeter wines. 14.5/20