Arlaux Brut NV: A pale colour. Open, evolved nutty nose, cashew nuts in particular. Seems rather full and forward. Clean. Medium depth on the palate, gentle and rounded, a touch creamy. Gentle nuttiness, very accessible, fresh, with a nice vein of acidity through the finish. Clean and full. Very good. 15.5+/20

Arlaux Rosé NV: Mainly the 2002 vintage, with some 2001 and 2000 blended in. All premier cru. Served rather too cold. A lovely hue though, somewhere between the peachy tones of a sunset and a coppery onion skin. Fresh and clean on the nose, with notes of blackberry leaf. Crisp palate, quite firmly composed, with a nice grip on the finish. This has a good style. 15.5/20

Ayala Brut Majeur NV: Rather closed on the nose. Subdued at first, the nose opens out to give notes of oiled wood and citrus leaf which is very attractive. The palate is bright and fresh, with a sharp acidity, still a little woody, but very nicely composed. Bright, refreshing mousse. This really very good. Now under the ownership of Bollinger, it looks as though there are good things happening at Ayala (there's a hint of the Bollinger style, too). 15.5/20

Beaumont des Crayères Grande Prestige Brut NV: Rather sulphurous on the nose, like so many of the wines in this tasting. But so much here that it is difficult for me to judge. But it is dominating the nose more than it is the palate, which is refreshing, with a firm structure, a lemon-herbal character and plenty of acidity. This would probably develop well if left in the cellar for a year or two, but is not for drinking now. 15.5+/20

Billecart-Salmon Brut Réserve NV: There is still a lot of sulphur here, with notes of sea salt and minerals, and behind that some notes of slightly medicinal, cough-candy notes. Minerally, firm, salty but also very sulphurous palate. Quite full and characterful beneath it all though, and overall it is nicely composed. A good, firm finish. I can only hope that the sulphur will dissipate with time as it is quite predominant at the moment. 15/20

Billecart-Salmon Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru NV: Like the straight non-vintage, this too is showing a lot of sulphur. It was also served very cold. The palate, though, is quite well composed. It does not have a huge depth at present, although it is very firm and fresh, showing some attractive white fruit character. Nice peppery acidity. Difficult to judge, but it has promise. 16?/20

Blin Brut Tradition NV: This has a very forward and expressive nose, with some smoky tropical fruits and a rich, confected fruit sweetness. The palate is full and broad, although with a relaxed, foamy mousse. Like the nose, sweetly confected smoky-herby flavours dominate, with a slightly coarse acidity and structure. This is a decent but perhaps rather unusual style which doesn't have great appeal to me. 13.5/20

Bollinger Special Cuvée NV: This has a rather typical nose for Bollinger, of oiled wood and the mature note of oak fermented reserve wines. Full, dry, somewhat organic in character, with citrus orange notes through the midpalate. It is big and rich, a full bodied style, a touch oaky, with a fading mousse on the palate. Good acidity. Very good. 16/20

Alexandre Bonnet Grande Réserve Brut NV: A smoky-mineral-chalky nose, rather bright with some rather artificial, confected apple fruit. Gently foaming mousse on the palate, with sharp acidity and flavours of freshly peeled Bramley apples. Full, rather obvious, a touch simple and one dimensional. And despite that acidity, rather unfocused. 13/20

Canard-Duchêne Brut NV: Rather sulphurous nose, with little else showing here today, so the nose is rather difficult to judge. An exceedingly foamy palate, very open and soft, the wine almost disappears on the palate, leaving just a trace of a few bubbles. I can find little in the way of positive comment to make here. 12.5/20

Canard-Duchêne Grande Cuvée Charles VII Blanc de Blancs NV: Rather a chemical note on the nose here, a rather like the smell of paper towels. Not at all appealing. Very obvious on the palate, some white fruits and peach, with lean, sharp acidity. Very tight. Lots of structure. I'm not convinced that this will round out to anything exciting. 13.5/20

Cattier Premier Cru Brut NV: Smoky-stony-steely lemon and mineral nose here, with just a touch of residual sulphur. Very bright and quite nicely focused. Light, sharp, softening just a little on the midpalate. A gently fading mousse. Rather a citrussy-sherbetty feel to it on the finish. This is quite good at best. 13.5/20

Cattier Premier Cru Brut Clos du Moulin NV: A blend across three vintages. This has an appealing nose, with some depth showing, and some warm, nutty characteristics. There is certainly more of interest here than with the other Cattier wines on show today. but still it is very sharp, tight and acidic. There is an embryonic oily-nuttiness showing, some little notes of maturity. This has good potential, but desperately needs some cellar time to soften up. 16+/20

Comte Audoin de Dampierre Cuvée des Ambassadeurs Premier Cru NV: A smoky, mineral nose. Very fine palate following on from the nose, with a similar herby, smoky mineral character. This has good definition on the palate, with a precise, elegant nature. Gentle but well composed, nice mousse. Really very good. 16+/20

Comte Audoin de Dampierre Oeil de Perdrix Premier Cru NV: Served very cold. A very open and obvious nose, rich and deep with red fruit flavours. There is some sulphur here too, but this will dissipate with time. Nicely put together on the palate, firmly structured, upright. Seems a touch artificial here but I wonder if this is related to the lingering sulphur? Should come good with time. 15.5+?/20

Deutz Brut Classic NV: Surprisingly for a press and trade event the first bottle was corked, and I wasn't the first to taste from it (although it was rather subtly corked I suppose). A second bottle was brought out and this was much better; nutty, and a touch evolved. Very straightforward on the palate, a touch light here, sharp and fresh, with a very firm mousse. This has a simple style which is pleasing. Just good, though. 14/20

Drappier Carte d'Or Brut NV: A very fresh, smoky-mineral nose. A little oily tropical fruit nuance behind it. Rather pleasing nature on the palate, quite delicate, very nicely poised. Elegant, with a very soft mousse, and firm acidity. This has an admirable style. Good. 16/20

Dumangin Brut Grande Réserve NV: An attractive, fresh, mineral fruit style. A little herby. I like it. Similarly fresh on the palate, with a gently foaming mousse. Rather sea salty, with a really simple and open style, but it has clean lines, and has a pretty, nicely rounded presence on the palate. This is good. 15.5/20

Duval-Leroy Fleur de Champagne Premier Cru NV: Very open and evocative nose, full of smoky, floral fruit. Still showing a little sulphur although this is not a problem here. A creamy mousse, very attractive, quite rounded overall, a touch nutty. Bright and fresh, a good style, which will come together quite nicely with a little time. Very good. 16+/20

Gosset Brut Excellence NV: Attractive, refined, subtle and elegant. Minerally and smoky on the nose, just a trace of sulphur, again not a problem here. Full style, a good balance of fruit and a gentle structure. Just lacks a little midpalate impact, but now I think I am being picky. Altogether, a nicely style wine. 16+/20

Alfred Gratien Brut Classique NV: A slightly oaky nose, with creamy fruit, very open and forward. A good palate, nicely balanced out, with firm acidity and a gentle mousse. Full, creamy, peppery, with some appealing herbal fruit. This is really rather attractive. Very good potential here. 16+/20

Charles Heidsieck Mis en Cave 2003 Brut Réserve NV: This is the 2003 cellaring, so largely based on the 2002 vintage. Deep, smoky, brioche and fruit. Some depth and complexity here, belying the generous use of reserve wines I would think. Very fine, gentle and composed on the palate. Appealing, soft, fine mousse. Full of appeal, perhaps not as concentrated as some previous releases of this particular cuvée but very good nevertheless. Certainly one of the better wines here today. 16.5+/20

Henriot Brut Souverain NV: A very reserved and austere nose here. Extremely forceful with its mineral sea salt character, it is in fact a little off-putting. But the palate is much more relaxed. It is full, with a creamy style coming through on the midpalate, and a firm, peppery acidity. Good firm composition. Very sharp acidity. I suspect this will do well in the cellar; it certainly isn't for drinking now. 15.5+/20

Jacquart Brut Mosaïque NV: Rather heavily sulphured; there is little else apparent on the nose. A big, foaming mousse which gives the wine an inconsequential feel on the palate as it almost disappears. It is difficult to judge. It doesn't seem to have the balance I would like, and it is certainly very dominated by sulphur. There are other wines out there to buy instead, I think. 12.5?/20

Jacquesson Cuvée 730 NV: Appealing, smoky-oily with honey and beeswax character. This is wonderful, with great appeal. Full, creamy, mature style, really attractive depth and complexity. Lovely vinosity, this is very serious and stylish. Emerging complexity and great elegance. An impressive wine which comes out very near the top of the pack as far as non-vintage wines are concerned. 16.5+/20

Krug Grande Cuvée NV: Quite an elegant nose here, refined, a little citrus fruit, quite a reserved style, nicely delicate (if I can apply that description to Krug...it's all relative). Full, creamy edge to the fruit, very precise and well poised. Firm but crisp, reigned in mousse. Full style, still rather oaky, firm and yet gentle at the same time. Long finish. This is very good indeed. 17+/20

Lanson Black Label Brut NV: Bright, steely, herbal and mineral, and still showing just a little sulphur. Very sharp, laser like precision, well defined palate. Firm, lovely mousse coating it all though. Another typically sharp non-vintage style from this house. Has good potential for the cellar. 16+/20

Larmandier-Bernier Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Brut NV: A lovely nose, with honey, brioche and beeswax. Fine palate, rather soft and talcy, with only moderate acidity. Rather creamy, slightly foamy, lacks a little focus to be critical. But it is a crowd-pleaser nevertheless. Good. 16+/20

Larmandier-Bernier Né d'une Terre de Vertus Premier Cru Non-Dosé NV: An exotic nose, smoky, notes of crushed rocks. There is a good depth of character here. Light on the palate, very delicate, very summery, and unsurprisingly bone dry. In fact it seems rather emaciated through the midpalate, as a result. But the style will no doubt appeal to some. It is certainly interesting to taste. 15+/20

Laurent-Perrier Brut NV: There is some good character here, rather stony nose, but also showing a lot of sulphur. Soft, creamy, and very nicely composed, with a little richness apparent. This is appealing, but it is swamped by the sulphur which gives me cause for concern. I would opt for something handled in a less aggressive fashion than this, although if it dissipates in time this has the potential to be a good wine. 15+/20

Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle Brut NV: This is currently a blend of the 1996, 1995 and 1993 vintages, using only Chardonnay from the earlier two vintages, but also Pinot from 1996. On the nose it is very mineral, with notes of crushed rocks. The palate is elegant, rounded, complete, and showing a lot of youth. It has a firm grip, firm acidity, and good character. It needs cellar time to settle down as it is all over the place at the moment, but it could be great. 17+/20

Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru NV: Depth and character on the nose here, some greenness of fruit but this is just a hallmark of youth I think. Very clean style. Served very cold. It is fresh, full, very nicely composed, with sharp acidity. This has great cellaring potential, but at the moment it is very closed and primary, but it has all the requirements for it to blossom with time. 16.5+/20

Moët & Chandon Brut Impérial NV: Lots of sulphur here, over notes of herbal, crushed rock character. Full, creamy, softly sweet, with a rich, foamy mousse. Firm, herbal character, fading away a touch thereafter. And lots of sulphur again. This is quite good at best. 14/20

Pierre Moncuit Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil NV: A rich, vibrant, citrus dominated nose. Smoky and mineral in character. A firm structure on the palate, although it was served very cold. Rich, full, just a touch foamy, but a very persistent mousse. A good presence, with firm acidity, and a lemon-steely style. With a year or two to soften up this could be very good indeed. 16+/20

Mumm Cordon Rouge NV: Lemon fruit and sulphur on the nose. A very soft style, foamy mousse, a touch chemical but this is down to the sulphur I think. Creamy but light, with citrus and herb flavour on the palate. It has a decent presence on the palate but the sulphur here is a concern. There is still room for improvement at Mumm I think. 14+/20

Bruno Paillard Brut Première Cuvée NV: Mature nose, oily oak, complex, use of reserve wines perhaps? Lemony freshness. Full, delicate, nicely balanced. Beautifully poised wine, really fine, with a gentle mousse and delightfully fresh acidity. Citrus and nutty flavours. One of the top non-vintage performers on the day. Very good indeed, with the potential for more. 17+/20

Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut NV: A stony, crisp minerality on the nose here. Quite herbal. Unsurprisingly, some sulphur too. Full, soft and creamy on the palate, but nicely crisp with some lovely supporting structure. Very fresh, with good acidity. Should perform well after a year or two in the bottle I think, as it integrates and that sulphur dissipates. 16+/20

Piper-Heidsieck Cuvée Brut NV: Again, sulphur is the first aroma that greets the nose here, but underneath this there are some good mature notes, and some nuttiness. Has the percentage of mature wines blended in been increased at Piper in recent years? Very nicely composed. Creamy and balanced, with a gentle, attractive presence. Little notes of mushrooms. Nicely put together and better than many. 16+/20

Pol Roger Brut Réserve NV: Rather reserved, withdrawn, just a little nutty. Served incredibly cold which makes assessment difficult. I left it to warm in the glass. The mousse is good and taut. Refined style, full and creamy. Really well composed, with a little finesse showing on the palate. Delicious. 16.5+/20

Roederer Brut Premier NV: Some sulphur still lingering here, but it is subtle and probably of no consequence. The wine itself, however, is rather reserved, reticent even. The palate is very precisely defined, very sharp, with deep character and flavour though. Firm and structured, with a slightly brutal composition although it is so young. It needs time in bottle to soften up. Nice vinosity to it which suggest it will be really, really good. 16.5+/20

Ruinart Blanc de Blancs NV: An open, expressive nose full of honeyed wood and burnt cinder toffee, which I find all very appealing. A little residual sulphur still at present. An appealing fresh style on the palate, also bedevilled by sulphur, but clearly there is a fine structure underneath it all, and a precise composition. Firm acidic backbone. A great presence and it certainly bodes well for the future. 16+/20

Taittinger Brut Réserve NV: Rather organic, minerally nose. Some sulphur here. Nice style on the palate though, sweet citrus fruit with a bright, lifting acidity, a combination that seems very typical of non-vintage Taittinger. A delicate style, open and appealing, but nicely structured, and fresh. I really like this. 16+/20

Taittinger Nocturne Sec NV: Rather nettly on the nose, very mineral and spicy. On the palate, a lovely full, creamy, peppery style which is broad-shouldered, firm rather than flabby. Very nicely composed, dark and spicy. This is really interesting wine to my palate, a complex, deep, wintry style. Very good indeed. 16+/20

Tarlant Brut Réserve NV: Smoky and a lot of sulphur here. Full style on the palate. A nice presence of smoky-creamy fruit which is very attractive. Good, balanced acidity. Fine mousse. This will need to shake off the sulphur but could be very good indeed I think. 16+/20

Veuve Clicquot Brut NV: Lime leaves on the nose, oranges, smoky, and some sulphur. Soft, unfocused, creamy foamy style, peppery and sherbetty. Slightly bitter character too. Lacks precision and presence, fading away to almost nothing on the endpalate. Disappointing. 14/20