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CIB Tasting 2006 Part 2
Following on from my previous write-up of the vintage wines presented at the Champagne Information Bureau Annual Tasting in 2006, here are the notes for the rosé and demi-sec wines. Only a few of the vintage wines were in any way memorable; these two categories did not fare any better. (22/3/06)
CIB Tasting 2006 Part 2 - Tasting Notes
Tasted in March 2006. Click
to locate stockists.
Ayala Rosé Majeur NV: An appealing, onion skin hue. Notes of raspberry
leaf on the nose. Full and dry on the palate, showing some redcurrant fruit,
which is rather green and leafy. This has a decent enough style, but has a
rather short finish, which carries a little note of bitterness also. 14/20
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Bollinger Grande Année Rosé
1999: A salmon-pink hue. Great character
on the nose here, which shows notes of caramel, firm red and even black fruits,
showing a little blackberry in particular. This is an unusual profile, and this
shows on the palate which is very serious, quite firm, and is currently still a
little disjointed in character. There is some naked alcohol, and even some
tannin here. This has good potential though, but needs several years bottle age
for all this to come together. 16.5+/20
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Alexandre Bonnet Perle Rosé NV: A rather pale, satin pink hue, which
leads on to a rather sweet and confected nose. Firm and yet rather soapy
character on the nose, with some simple red fruits, and a big foamy mousse. This
is very simple stuff. Not one I would recommend. 13/20
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Canard-Duchêne Grande Cuvée Charles VII Rosé NV: This wine has a deep,
copper-toned hue. The nose is quite rich and rather meaty, and the palate has
plenty of impact on entry, showing a similarly full, rich, creamy style. Overall
this is a rather rustic, full-on, in-your-face style, but forgiving that this
makes decent short-term drinking. 14.5/20
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Charles Heidsieck Rosé 1996: This has a lovely, copper-tinged onion
skin colour. The nose is rather close at present, but the wine has a lovely
presence on the palate despite this, showing a good acid backbone and a big,
structured style. Full, characterful, needs 4-5 years to show its best.
Certainly one of the better wines in this line up. 16.5+/20
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Deutz Rosé NV: A pale, satin pink, and a slightly confected red fruit
nose marks this wine. Nevertheless on the palate it has a full, creamy mousse
backed up by a lovely structure and backbone of acidity. This needs cellar time,
and should be very drinkable with that proviso. 16+/20
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Drappier Grande Sendrée Rosé 2000: This wine has quite a deep and
vibrant satin pink hue. On the nose it has a rather rounded, minerally, pebbly
character, with some subtle, leafy liquorice notes. Good, full palate,
structured, with leafy redcurrant fruit. This makes decent drinking, but again
it needs cellar time I think. 16/20
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Dumangin Rosé NV: Another pale, satin pink wine. Slightly dirty nose,
perhaps a little sulphur here, with some minerally, pebbly, confected red
fruits. Soft entry, rather creamy mousse, but then showing some fairly firm
acidity. Nice savoury finish. This would be decent enough for current drinking,
but the nose spoils it. 15/20
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Duval Leroy Rosé de Saignée NV: A remarkable pale wine here, barely
pink at all. The nose has a soft, unappetising canned strawberry quality, with a
sweet edge. This continues onto the palate, with a certain confected edge, and a
tin can nervousness on he finish. Drinkable, if you must. 14.5/20
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Gosset Grand Rosé NV: Barely a hint of onion skin to this otherwise
pink wine. The nose certainly has appeal, with notes of oranges and other citrus
fruits providing welcome relief among all the strawberries and redcurrants.
Lovely palate, broad and expressive, showing notes of peaches and tangerines,
with a mineral background and a soft, creamy mousse. This is very good indeed.
Drink now. 17/20
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Henriot Rosé 1998: This has a lovely, peacy, onion skin hue. The nose
is just glorious, yielding aromas of marzipan and nutes, swirled in cream, with
just a nuance of caramel. Another broad and expressive palate, really rather
seductive, with mineral stone fruit and marzipan worthiness. This is quite
lovely. For current drinking. 16.5/20
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Jacquart Brut Rosé Mosaïque NV: A gentle, pale, salmon pink hue here.
Slightly dirty nose, slightly confected, a little leafy. There is, however,
pleasing structure on the palate, with an unremarkable creamy mousse and really
rather gentle acidity. Overall though, this lacks impact and character. 14/20
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Lanson Rosé Label NV: Barely pink, and rather dirty on the nose,
showing heavy-handed sulphur. Despite this the palate holds together well, has a
creamy mousse and an attractive balance. There is firm acidity, and a decent red
fruit character. Nevertheless, the nose has it. Not a great wine. 14/20
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Larmandier-Bernier Premier Cru Rosé de Saignée NV: This has a deep,
vibrant hue that is typical of Larmandier-Bernier, more like a young,
cool-climate Pinot Noir than a rosé Champagne. Lots of red fruit Pinot character
on the nose, strawberries especially. Rather lean on the palate, though, with
mineral and redcurrant-strawberry fruit, with a leafy edge. Rather deep, full-on
and obvious for my tastes, although I'm sure this would be popular with many.
13.5/20
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Laurent-Perrier Cuvée Rosé Brut NV: A salmon pink wine with a touch of
copper. Heavily sulphured on the nose, with some appealing stony red fruit
behind this. This heavy use of sulphur is a shame because the palate is
otherwise rather elegant and refined, with a creamy texture laid over a firm,
stony, structured presence. 13.5/20
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Mailly Grand Cru Rosé NV: A firm salmon pink, with a good nose,
showing some floral-tinged red fruits. Quite expressive. Nice structure on the
palate, with some appealing red fruits and a stony character, but also a rather
bitter twist. Moderate impact. Decent enough. 14.5/20
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Serge Mathieu Brut Rosé NV: A fairly bright, salmon pink wine. It is
really closed in tight on the nose though. Despite this, the palate displays a
soft, accessible style, with some dry red fruit flavour spiced with a little
bitter quinine. Bone dry, and good enough. 15/20
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Perrier-Jouët Brut Blason Rosé NV: This wine has a pale, copper-tinged
salmon pink wine. The nose has a stony, mineral character, laid over some
redcurrant fruit. Rather sweet and confected on the palate, and rather simple.
Straightforward. I can find little else positive to say here. 13.5/20
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Piper-Heidsieck Rosé Sauvage NV: This wine has an appealing,
attractive sunset hue. It is very expressive on the nose, which displays a good
depth of aroma with a mineral twist. Full and rich in flavour on the palate,
with nuances of marzipan and nuts, with a lovely, savoury, mineral, peach stone
finish. This is very good. 16/20
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Pol Roger Brut Rosé 1998: A pale, onion skin hue, and a lovely nose,
demonstrating a refined, mineral-infused quality. The palate is broad and
expressive, showing some finesse, some marzipan nut character, moderate acidity
and a nicely balanced structure. This is very good, and is for current drinking
in my opinion. 16.5/20
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Louis Roederer Brut Rosé 1999: This has a lovely colour, a very pale
hue, with more than a note of oeil de perdrix. Refined nose, a little
sweet perhaps, with a little twist of caramel. Lovely, structured palate, quite
expressive, yet refined, with a lean, mineral quality to the fruit. This will
improve with further bottle age, and should be very good indeed. 16.5+/20
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Ruinart Rosé NV: This has a firm, salmon pink hue. An appealing,
mineral and cordite nose here, mixed with a healthy display of red fruits mixed
with cream. The palate is firm, balanced, structured, with fine mineral flavour
and a good acid structure. Fine weight on the palate This makes a lovely drink
for current imbibing. 16.5/20
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Drappier Grande Carte d'Or Demi-Sec NV: A soft nose, showing a little
whiff of sulphur. Nice texture on the palate, certainly better than some of the
wines that followed. Good minerality, and some decent structure. One of the more
palatable demi-secs here. 15/20
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Dumangin Demi-Sec Argentée NV: An appealing nose here, fairly mineral
in quality, with some white floral notes. It has a presence on the palate,
although it has a rather foamy, sherbetty character. Rather soft and unfocused.
Decent acidity though, but little else to commend it. 14/20
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Duval Leroy Fleur de Champagne Demi-Sec NV: Rich, sweet, flowery,
perfumed, soapy nose. A full, rich and creamy presence on the palate, but with
nice, fresh acidity. Rather foamy again though, rather simple, one-dimensional.
Decent at best. 14/20
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Lanson Ivory Label NV: Probably one of the more widely distributed
cuvées here. Rather simple perfumed fruit on the nose. Full, creamy, sweet and
slightly foamy mousse. This lacks character, but certainly has an approachable
structure. Bitter finish. Not the best demi-sec here! 13.5/20
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Laurent-Perrier Demi-Sec NV: What is it with Laurent-Perrier and
sulphur? Lemon and stone fruits coated in sulphur on the nose, more of the same
on the palate. Rather full, nicely textured, with sweet, peppery acidity. Might
be more approachable if that sulphur were to dissipate. 14.5+/20
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Serge Mathieu Demi-Sec NV: This wine is closed for business on the
nose, which displays, well, nothing. It lacks much in the way of impact on the
palate, too, where there is a soft mouthfeel, rather flat mousse, although some
decent acidity. Very much in the same vein as the preceding wines; decent at
best. 14/20
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Piper Heidsieck Demi-Sec Sublime NV: A cuvée I have really enjoyed
recently. This is perfumed, sweet, but otherwise fairly characterless. Full and
rich on the palate, with plenty of dosage texture, but just no interest at
present. Rather simple. This is a shame; I was actually looking forward to
trying this. 14.5+/20
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Louis Roederer Rich NV: This has a rather subtle nose, yielding just a
little whiff of hazelnut, which is a lot more than some of the other wines here
have given. Full, rounded, with little nuances of flavour, but not exactly
oozing quality or impact. Decent, correctly structured underneath it all, but
rather soft and unfocused at present. 14.5/20
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Veuve Clicquot Demi-Sec NV: A light, rather floral presence on the
nose, with some crystalline flower petals leading the way. Quite precise, which
makes a welcome change, with good acidity, minerally quality, but just a little
hint of sulphur in the background. Smoky, textured. This is decent enough, and
is certainly better than many of the other high dosage wines here. 15/20
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