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Champagne 1995

Following the triumvirate of 1988, 1989 and 1990 which were successful vintages for the Champagne region, the sun did not shine so gladly nor consistently on the vines around Reims and Épernay. There followed, in the early 1990s, a string of less than exciting vintages none of which were universally declared. It was not until the arrival of the 1995 vintage that truly favourable conditions returned, the summer being warm and dry, and extending well into the harvest period of September and October. There were of course some September rains, but nothing of great note, and certainly not sufficient to threaten the harvest with rot.

There is always a danger that a half-decent vintage which follows a series of very difficult years can, in the context of the preceding vintages, seem better than it really is. This was a valid concern for 1995 with Champagne, but now we are more than a decade on and there has been much time to review and assess the wines. On tasting the wines it seems clear that the vintage is superior to earlier efforts, specifically the 1993 and 1992 vintages which tended to be declared over the 1991 and very poor 1994 vintages. In fact the wines have much to admire, and are perhaps better then was originally hoped for. They are now, with the probably exception of the prestige cuvées, ready for drinking. Many show an admirable mature character and a good composition, holding together nicely, usually with an underlying firmness not quite matching that of the 1988 vintage but certainly suggesting that these will continue to blossom in the cellar over a few more years yet. (3/8/07)

Champagne 1995 - Tasting Notes

Tasted in August 2007. Click to locate stockists.

Veuve Clicquot Brut 1995: A very pale, fine lemon-gold hue dotted with a very sparse but moderate sized bead. There is certainly some complexity and apparent maturity on the nose, nutty and a little mushroomy, although with a little confected, boiled sweet character in the background but it is a very minor component. The palate, however, is quite fine, with a vibrantly crisp mousse carrying along a lot of full, creamily mature autolytic flavours. There is a lot of rich, leesy character to it, quite a forceful flavour in fact, with a sappy, lingering acidity. Quite firm despite the maturing character and it would continue to do well in the cellar. Veuve Clicquot were certainly making some lovely wines back in the 1990s, so it is sad that recent efforts are not so admirable. 17+/20

Lanson Gold Label Brut 1995: Another pale, lemon-straw, but slightly golden colour with a sparse, fine bead. The nose here is marked by cinder toffee and praline, with a little mushroom and seashell minerality and a nuance of autolysis. The palate is really quite elegant, fresh but edged with toffee, praline and toast, another forcefully flavoured wine with lots of complex roasted fruits coming in through the midpalate, and also a slightly confected edge here. Appealing though, quite typical firm acidity, still lots of potential for the cellar here. Very enjoyable. 17-17.5+/20

Bruno Paillard Blanc des Blancs Brut 1995: A pale lemon hue, with a very plentiful effervescent bead. The nose is quite leafy but clean, showing early hints of maturity, just a little brioche and nut. But it is still in a lean, fresh, rather precise stage, with just a gentle touch of cream on the palate. Firm acidity which gives a cutting finish. A good style, although rather a rapid fading away on the finish. Perhaps lacks a little concentration, but it has room to develop yet. Very good. 16.5-17+/20

Pol Roger Brut Chardonnay 1995: A fairly rich hue for a Blanc des Blancs, and a rather surprising meaty character to the nose as well. In character though it seems correct, with an evolving coffee and toffee seam belying the Chardonnay base. As it opens in the glass it reveals a little more minerality to the profile too. The mousse is nicely rounded, with a nice creamy-toffee flavour and as the nose suggested a full, meaty style on a broad base. This is stylish and even seems a little opulent, but overall it is very good indeed. 17.5+/20

Pol Roger Brut 1995: A rich and golden hue, with a fine, sparse bead. A fine, nutty and mature character on the nose, certainly a little more evolution than my previous two tastings, yet there is a little note of steel here too. Lovely, rounded, full yet well balanced on the palate, with a fine depth but with freshness too. Quite organic in character, with a long and fresh and meaty finish. Still full of potential for the cellar, but just fine now. The score for this one just keeps creeping up! 18+/20

Moët et Chandon Cuvée Dom Perignon Champagne 1995: A pale straw hue, with a very fine bead, although it is very persistent. The nose gives little rounded nuances of nuts and cream, specifically almonds, with a smoky, roasted white meat character which sounds really strange, but it was a rich and attractive aroma. It has certainly taken on a little more interest and complexity since my last tasting. The palate is full and broad, but more marked by its fine, precise purity. There are also some sweet fruits with a delicate cream, and a gently rounded mousse. Very good indeed, with lots of promise still. This one should stay in the cellar yet. 18.5+/20