After the famous communes of the left and right banks it is only right and natural that the 'lesser' appellations deserve some attention. As the time for tasting is limited, however, it is difficult to get a real feel for these less exalted appellations, even though they represent huge swathes of the Bordeaux wine-producing region. The truth is, although the cru classé estates of the Médoc, Sauternes and St Emilion, and the leading estates of Graves and Pomerol account for only a tiny proportion of the vineyards of Bordeaux, it is these properties - which probably only number two or three hundred - that we are most interested in. Indeed, I am already in receipt of an open letter from the proprietor of a St Emilion estate who is cross that I (and presumably others) didn't taste his wine, or indeed the wines of his Grand Cru Classé peers (more on that tomorrow). If even at this level (the rung directly below the Premier Grand Cru Classé estates) the wines are struggling to get noticed, what chance does Fronsac and the Bordeaux-Côtes have?

This must seem galling for historically-knowledgeable proprietors in Fronsac and Canon-Fronsac who will be aware that this region of Bordeaux once comfortably outranked neighbouring St Emilion and Pomerol in terms of quality. As recently as the 18th Century the wines of Fronsac were frequently served in the French court, but with the arrival of phylloxera and the devastation of France's vineyards Fronsac and the associated enclave Canon-Fronsac went into decline. Subsequently the region has seen hard times, hiding in the shadows of the limelight which today tends to focus on other right bank appellations. In recent years investment from elsewhere in Bordeaux and also from further afield has helped a number of properties, including La Vieille Cure - tasted in 2008 as noted below - and La Rivière.

Next up, wines from the relatively new Bordeaux-Côtes appellations (Francs, Blaye, Castillon & Cadillac) which may append the commune to the appellation as below, also the Premières Côtes de Bordeaux (wines from the right bank of the Garonne, on a long strip of vineyards between the river and the Entre-deux-Mers appellation) and Sainte Foy-Bordeaux (a little known appellation at the south-eastern end of Entre-deux-Mers). Finally, I round off these notes, and all my 2008 notes for the moments, with a few generic AC Bordeaux wines including two from Château Thieuley, from the charming Marie & Sylvie Courselle, and last of all one wine from the Rolland stable classified as Vin de Table. (30/4/09)

Bordeaux 2008: Tasting Notes

Tasted in London and Bordeaux in March & April 2009. Click to locate stockists.

Fronsac & Canon-Fronsac

Château Dalem (Fronsac) 2008: An attractive nose, full of fresh fruit, vanilla and raspberry ripple ice cream, with a little black cherry too. Despite this evocative set of aromas the palate is lean at the start, with a softer, more fleshy middle, nice acidity and grip. Gently chewy in the end. Good, in fact rather stylish and elegant, appealing wine. 14.5-15.5+/20

Château de la Dauphine (Fronsac) 2008: A very dark wine, with a deep, concentrated nose, with peculiar notes of cola-caramel backed up by sherbetty, cherry fruit. These unusual characteristics may well be temporary, though. Good texture on the palate, quite fresh although rounded and creamy, but it still has that cola quality to it. The tannins are nicely covered. Plummy, sweet, slightly confected finish. It has the substance to drink well; if the unusual aromatics resolve this could be good. 15.5-16.5+?/20

Château Fontenil (Fronsac) 2008: A Rolland wine. Plenty of dense character on the nose here, which has a certain sweetness of fruit, and notes of plum skin. The palate is dense, sweet and creamy, with ripe plummy fruit as suggested by the nose. There is midpalate grip, and a good texture to it overall. Firm, bright acidity, and creamy extract. This one could provide good value. 16-17+/20

Château Haut-Carles (Fronsac) 2008: This is inky dark, and is quite reduced on the nose, with aromas of rubber, bonfires and fireworks on the nose; it is difficult to get at the fruit underneath. The palate is big, soft and ripe, with creamy cherry alongside burnt coffee and macerated-roasted fruit. A very soft and flattering style, but difficult to judge at present. 15-16+?/20

Château Moulin Haut-Laroque (Fronsac) 2008: This is 65% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Malbec. There are pretty red fruits, vanilla and cream on the nose; this seems like fruit just on the cusp of ripeness. The palate is clean, stony but vanilla-edged, rather light, but with firm grip underneath. A gently attractive style. 15.5-16.5+/20

Château Les Trois Croix (Fronsac) 2008: This has creamy vanilla oak layered over raspberry and blackberry fruit. Attractive, with an appealing palate, quite full, fleshy, with good grip and depth to it. The fruit stands up quite well to the oak. A touch buttery towards the end though. This will need time for the oak to integrate but it has promise. 15.5-16.5+/20

Château La Vieille Cure (Fronsac) 2008: This is 75% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Franc and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. Blackberry, cherry and raspberry fruit on the nose, with a little liquorice. Rather reserved, lean to moderate texture on the palate, with a nice, gentle, midpalate flesh. Clean, with some substance and midpalate grip; there is quite a bit of extract here, actually. Quite tannic on the finish. Good effort though. 15.5-16.5+/20

Côtes de Bordeaux, Premières Côtes and Sainte Foy

Château de Francs Les Cerisiers (Bordeaux-Côtes de Francs) 2008: Tasted twice, once in London and once at Angélus, as Hubert de Boüard de Laforest is involved here. Fresh and bright, with perfumed red-black fruits. On the palate this certainly has a lean character, although this sits over a very full, firm, tannic structure. The is a little juiciness to it, and at the end a more weighty, chewy note. A decent effort. 14.5-15.5+/20

Château Clos Chaumont (Premières Côtes de Bordeaux) 2008: Bright but rather lean, stony cherry fruit on the nose. Rather a soft mouthfeel at the start, somewhat unfocused, with chalky tannins under a rather oily fruit. Acidity seems very modest. Loose-knit. 13-14+/20

Château Hostens-Picant Cuvée des Demoiselles (Sainte Foy-Bordeaux) 2008: This cuvée is 60% Semillon and 40% Sauvignon Blanc. Fresh pear fruit on the nose, slightly waxy in style, fresh and lifted, this is certainly appealing. Nice substance on the palate, good grip, aromatic fruit. The acidity is good, and it has a nice bite to it. Good wine. 15.5-16.5+/20

Château Hostens-Picant Cuvée d'Exception Lvcvllvs (Sainte Foy-Bordeaux) 2008: Not the most catchy of names for this cuvée, which is 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. Vibrant fruit on the nose, black cherry character. Quite elegant on the palate, with aromatic fruit and a touch of vanilla ice cream. The tannins are fairly well covered, although there is a grippy, charcoaly, firm finish. Good though. 15.5-16.5+/20

AC Bordeaux

Château Loudenne (Bordeaux Blanc) 2008: Slightly muted on the nose, but with some nice, stony, lemon and grass Sauvignon fruit. Good substance, more exotic than the nose suggested on the palate, gentle, fleshy and quite elegant. A rather soft style I suppose, with lots of texture and substance, but it does have acidity too. 15.5-16.5+/20

Château Thieuley (Bordeaux Blanc) 2008: A clean style here, quite flashy and expressive, but with stony moments too. Broad on the palate, slightly bitter fruit, a little diffuse in character, but good grip underneath. There is some flesh to it, countered by a sharp character from the fruit. 15-16+/20

Château Thieuley Cuvée François Courselle (Bordeaux Blanc) 2008: This is the upmarket, oaked cuvée. It certainly has a rounder feel to it, with honey and oak on the nose. A zippy style on the palate, but polished and rounded, with soft fruit laid over grip beneath. There is good substance to it and a style distinct from the straight Thieuley, but not necessarily any better I feel. 15-16+/20

Vin de Table

Le Défi de Fontenil 2008: As this comes from Rolland's Fronsac estate Château Fontenil I could include it under the relevant section above, but this "defiant" wine perhaps deserves its own section down here. In 2000 the Rollands experimented with plastic sheeting to prevent rain penetrating the soil. This "modification of the terroir", as the INAO put it, was enough to be denied the agrément, and demotion to vin de table followed. It is now a regularly produced cuvée. Pure Merlot, this has a dense and slightly stewed quality to the fruit on the nose, although the impression on the palate is fine. Quite creamy, very typically, but also with a rather supple, layered feel to it. Lots of grip at the finish too. Broad and sweet, a good style in the end. 16-17+/20