In the Médoc I have a habit of kicking off with St Estèphe, always an unusual experience at the UGC tasting where, with Montrose, Cos d'Estournel and Calon-Ségur never deigning to attend, we are left with a very small sample of cru classé and unclassified estates indeed, usually just four in number. And it is not that unusual for the latter estates (I am trying to avoid referring to them as cru bourgeois, as that classification now refers to an annual award made to a wine rather than a château) to outshine their cru classé peers. I kicked off with Cos Labory which I found impossible to taste as it was still dominated by sulphur (not a common finding in this tasting), and then continued with Château de Pez, owned by the Rouzaud family of Roederer since 1995, and thus now under the same management as Pichon-Lalande (which was acquired in 2007), the wines being poured by none other than Gildas d'Ollone. This was probably my favourite wine from this tiny sampling of the commune.

Pauillac was not quite the most disappointing of the Médoc communes, but the wines were certainly something of a let-down in terms of pre-existing expectations, because the wines had on the whole shown quite well during the primeur tastings. In many cases, although very decent wines, I find that I have scored the wines at the very bottom of the range I awarded them when tasting the barrel samples in 2009, or in some cases a half-point under the range. That is not to say they are bad wines, more that they are not great, and as such perhaps they provide a genuine reflection of the vintage; charming, drinkable, but nothing to swoon over. Well, at least not until we come to the pretenders to the communal crown.

These days there are three properties that would like to lay claim to the Pauillac crown when the firsts aren't in town, but on this tasting the prize undoubtedly belonged to Pichon-Baron, one of the most impressive wines on the day, amongst a small handful from St Julien and the right bank. Pichon-Lalande and Pontet-Canet, however, both failed to match Baron's showing; the former simply wasn't as convincing as the barrel sample tasted in 2009 which had a much more supple and elegant style than this rather robust composition. Perhaps this wine was merely having an off-day, as structurally it was fine? As for Pontet-Canet, a wine which showed a rather muscular structure with fleshy fruit when tasted en primeur, on this occasion the tannins maintained their bulky, rippling assertiveness whereas the fruit character was much more the crystalline delicacy that characterises the vintage, and which is inadequate to cover the tannic core with which this wine has been endowed. For me, this has too much structure and not enough substance. As I have recorded in my note this was surprising, as I have tasted this wine twice as a barrel sample and it was much more harmonious on both occasions than it was here. Caution is required with interpreting my comments on both of these wines, and I have added a note of uncertainty to my score in each case. And I will reassess both wines in the future to try and accrue more data.

St Julien is easy to sum up; there were no real disappointments here, in fact these wines were the most attractive of the left bank, with a particularly fine Léoville-Poyferré stealing the show, demonstrating the silky tannins of a true super-second, whereas the equally lovely Léoville-Barton showing just as much promise but in a much more backward and masculine style. But look beyond these two châteaux and you find a plethora of very good wines here. Even Gruaud-Larose, which I described as "rowing in a different stream to the rest of the commune" when tasted en primeur, showed very nicely on this occasion. For a safe bet on the left bank, stick with St Julien. And avoid Margaux, which provided wines which were the antithesis of St Julien's success. This was undeniably the most disappointing commune in terms of absolute quality on the day. Perhaps Rauzan-Ségla showed best, and others will provide light-hearted but I suspect over-priced short-term drinking, but I do ask myself after tasting these wines why anyone would really want to bother? (3/11/10)

The Médoc Communes 2008: Tasting Notes

Tasted at the UGC de Bordeaux tasting in October 2010. Click to locate stockists.

St Estèphe

Château Cos Labory 2008: The fruit here has a rather organic, gamey element to it and is also showing a pile of some struck-match sulphurous aromas. I find it very difficult on this tasting to get past this off-putting character on the nose. And I find the same on the palate. Texturally the wine is in keeping with the vintage, with softer tannins and correct acidity, but it remains impossible to make any sensible judgement on this wine at this moment. No score.

Château Lafon-Rochet 2008: Some appealing fresh fruit on the nose here. It has a crunchy depth and a smoky undertow that I find very attractive, giving it an unfussy, fresh and open and well defined nature. The palate has some gently creamy fruit with a subtle underpinning of lightly peppery tannins and rather soft acidity, but in the finish it rounds up showing a much more eye-catching substance and flavour. A more composed showing than at en primeur; there is promise here. 16+/20

Château de Pez 2008: Rather an attractive layer of smoky fruit here, sweet and violet-tinged, with a lightly gravelly and smoky note of soot to it. Certainly it has a good aromatic quality. There follows an impressive texture on entry, although a bit soft and pillowy it still manages to maintain an appealing style, perhaps helped by the structural elements, ripe and gritty tannins and fresh acids, that lie underneath. Substantial and also well composed, this will make attractive drinking; it does have a loose-knit feel at present but it should come together well as all the necessary components are there. 16+/20

Château Phélan-Ségur 2008: Still a lot of winemaking evident on the nose here, aromas of coffee and smoke laid over some well-hidden fruit. Soft and supple on entry, nicely balanced, with some structure showing very nicely behind the fruit and middling texture. Still very oak-dominated in terms of flavour, with a very soft finish which fades quickly. Likely to make attractive drinking but I think there are better vintages of Phélan-Ségur out there. 15+/20

Pauillac

Château d'Armailhac 2008: This is classic d'Armailhac on the nose, showing a good wealth of fruit and also a nice Pauillac spice. The palate is nicely judged, perhaps towards the lean side, rather diffuse in the middle, although it has substance, good fresh acidity and there are some nicely judged tannins which appear on the finish. Aromatically it's very pleasing and I think as the palate comes together this should do very nicely. A light crystalline-smokiness adds some appeal. A little length, some grip here too. An attractive wine. 16.5+/20

Château Batailley 2008: This has some really attractive creamy fruit on the nose, solid, polished but open and evocative. And there is a nice hit of Pauillac spicy-pencil shaving to it as well. A supple wine on entry, rather flat and diffuse here but showing a little more rounded body through the midpalate and plenty of peppery substance underneath it all. Nice, polished finish. It still has that rather loose-knit feel I find in a lot of vintages of Batailley but this is still young to be fair. And given time I think it could work very well. 16+/20

Château Clerc-Milon 2008: An attractive style of wine on the nose, open and expressive, suggesting a good layer of solid, well-bound fruits, fresh and lightly crunchy but with a dark and spicy character to them. The palate is supple and starts off rather flat but then demonstrates a more gritty, textured extract through the middle with good spice to it. It has a rather sweet and lightly juicy character and is a touch loose-knit. There is promise here though. Nice tannins which only reveal themselves on the finish. 16+/20

Château Grand-Puy-Ducasse 2008: Rather anonymous fruit here, spicy, crushed red-back fruits with elements of black pepper. Rather a bold texture on entry, a shell of substance, without a lot of flesh within, not showing a lot of fruit but showing plenty of structure. Lots of grip, lots of spice too, and rather a hot fruit finish. Broad, a touch over-worked, with more heat than I would like. Not very convincing. 14-14.5/20

Château Lynch-Bages 2008: An unusual nose of slightly caramelised fruit with a hint of smoke and gamey meat. There are some spicy Pauillac elements behind it though. Less aromatic on the palate but very bold and structured here. In fact it seems quite inexpressive in the mouth although there is an attractive combination of gritty substance and gentle tannic structure. Perhaps just a little more relaxed and diffuse than I would really like. Closed? A difficult one to call. 15-16+?/20

Château Lynch-Moussas 2008: Rather an inexpressive nose to this wine, and what I do get has a slightly warm, hot-smoked feel to it. Rather bold and shell-like substance on the palate, within this a frame of fruit which seems quite stretched although it has a rounder substance on the finish. Rather supple in fact and easy-going. The tannins are there but are soft and in keeping with the rest of the wine. Seems to have a little more structure towards the end. Needs time but this will drink earlier than some of the other wines I think. 15+/20

Château Pichon-Baron 2008: The 2008 Pichon-Baron has rather a reserved nose, tightly reined in, although there is a good density of fruit character here with a good pile of Pauillac spice too. It certainly suggests substance. There is a gravity to it, and a slightly savoury element here as well. A wonderfully flattering style on entry, hitting the palate with a flourish of fruit before it broadens out, showing a more intense and spicy structure again. There is a great pile of tannin here but it is just peeping out from behind the fruit, giving great spicy substance to the body of the wine. Very dark and reserved. Well balanced but with texture and tannic structure in equal measure. Long and rather grippy here too. But it all hangs together very well. This will take 10-15 years minimum to come round but should be excellent. One of the few great wines of the vintage. 18.5+/20

Château Pichon-Lalande 2008: A softer nose than the Pichon-Baron, a more feminine style I think, perhaps suggesting a more silky quality to the fruit. It does seem to come across a little hot on the nose though. Rather boldly structured on the palate as well, the wine presenting a really hard outer shell to penetrate here. There are some interesting elements of perfume to it but they seem hidden behind a sooty structure and a big wall of tannin at the moment. It does seem rather austere for the château on the palate in contrast to the seductive elements found on the nose. I don't find this as convincing as I did en primeur when I thought it showed very well. It may just not be showing so well today; I will leave a note of uncertainty in my score and I will reassess in the future. 15.5-16.5+?/20

Château Pontet-Canet 2008: An interesting aromatic layer of fruit here, very highly polished, aromatic, red-black summer fruits, almost high-toned in its definition. Certainly showing a little element of soot like a few other wines. The start on the palate is bold and reveals little, giving a firm shell of structure with little fruit, slowly relaxing and allowing the tannins out early in the midpalate. The texture of the wine struggles to manage with the level of tannin here which dominates the palate in a very forceful manner. It is certainly a wine apart within the appellation, but for me it is showing a rather over-extracted and over-worked character here, without the fruit or texture to match in this difficult vintage. That's surprising as I have tasted this twice as a barrel sample when it showed much better than this. I think caution is required here; I will leave a note of uncertainty in my score and I will reassess in the future. 16-17+?/20

St Julien

Château Beychevelle 2008: Dark and rather smoky nose, a honeyed oak quality, a good depth of fruit, dark and even a little brooding despite the evident polish to it. The quality comes through on the palate too though, where there are dark berries in abundance along with a firm layer of sooty tannin. Good substance but with a rather loose-knit composition although this will come together with time. Firm and tannic finish. 17.5+/20

Château Branaire-Ducru 2008: Dark, warm and slightly woody fruit here, rather tightly closed rather than evocative at first, although returning to it later did reveal a greater depth of more polished fruit. Moderate weight on entry at best, a lighter style through the midpalate where it is a little woody and the tannins come to dominate in the midpalate. Like Saint-Pierre, rather more grippy and structured than the fruit can handle at present. Dark and sooty. A vin de garde which will require long cellaring. 16.5-17+/20

Château Gruaud-Larose 2008: A warm fruit style here, very open, with some honeyed wood. The fruit has a sweet style with a furry, ripe and gamey warmth. Red fruits. Some of that crystalline character as well which is welcome. Well-judged on entry, showing a little more leanly in the midpalate though. Holding up nicely through to the finish, maintaining that open fresh fruit character, soft and supple, providing a good cover for the tannins. Nice acids too. Promising, with ripe tannin in the finish. A surprise considering it tasted quite incongruous in 2009. Very good. 17+/20

Château Lagrange 2008: A sweet, modern style of fruit here, fresh and bright, red and black summer fruit compote. It seems to possess polish and substance although on entry it has its texture tightly reined in. Through the midpalate it expands though, becoming more like the nose suggests, more polished and very lightly creamy. Well judged, with rather a firm tannic substance to it although it works well with the fruit and acids. With time in the cellar this could be very good. 17.5+/20

Château Langoa-Barton 2008: A very fruit-dominated nose, substantial but still showing that elegant crystalline quality from the primeur tastings, but with a more creamy sense overlaid. There is depth too, as seen on the palate where a very solid texture is backed up by a structural core of firm tannins and very fresh and bright acidity. Nicely balanced, showing some more evident structure only in the finish. Stylish with some good grip towards the end. Built for the long haul but this will certainly be fine given time. Very true to the vintage, and I like that. 17.5+/20

Château Léoville-Barton 2008: Creamy, dark, concentrated and slightly sooty black fruits on the nose here, still with a very polished substance too. This quality comes through on the palate but here there is also a strong structural component alongside the textural elements. The fruit has a darker, blacker quality than some other wines but the style is still very fine and polished, the tannins firm but working perfectly with the fruit. A well-honed and very true finish. A classic vin de garde in this vintage which seems to suit the style to a tee. Not the most elegantly polished fruit in the appellation, but still top quality. 18+/20

Château Léoville-Poyferré 2008: Really polished fruit on the nose here, smooth and creamy finish to it, with a sense of structure and gravity underpinning it. Almost sensuous on entry, revealing only glimpses of the tannic structure underneath, nicely hidden by a layer of well-judged fruit above. The fruit quality is fresh and kept buoyant by some lovely acidity. Elegance in abundance, manifesting as a silky composition on the palate, but with a high quality substance here. And certainly well-judged ripeness. Excellent wine with great potential, and one of the greats of the vintage, on the left bank at least. 18.5+/20

Château Saint-Pierre 2008: A layer of lightly crunchy red-black cherry fruit. A little green peppercorn. Smoky-toasty. An appealing, fresh, lean style on entry, with a good grippy edge, the tannins very dominant here. Piles of spice and pepper. A lot of structure showing through here above the flesh of the wine, which is elegant but subsumed by a dominant frame of tannin. Good acidity too. Appealing but it will need a long time in the cellar to come together. Long, spicy, slightly green and tannic finish. The balance is a little firm but there is fruit behind the structure and with a decade or more in the cellar it may come good. 16.5-17+/20

Château Talbot 2008: Rather a warm style of nose here, soft open fruit, a little more sweet and juicy. Crushed, baked, red-black fruit compote here, with a light pastry layer too. Nicely fleshed out on the palate, structured too though, with a nice balance of components. There is appropriate flesh and fruit for the tannin, really bright and firm acidity too. Peppery, spicy, but not green, with a subtle finish. There is nice quality here; I like this. 17.5+/20

Margaux

Château Brane-Cantenac 2008: This has a light and slightly nutty red fruit that seems typical for this estate's wines when in their youth; this is lightly perfumed, a touch gravelly, overall gently appealing but no more than that. The palate has a light and crunchy style of fruit, with a red berry flavour, a soft texture with a chalky edge, sitting on a gentle underpinning of tannins and acid. Attractive, although in a very lean style. 14.5+/20

Château Dauzac 2008: A smoky, perfumed and gravelly nose here, nicely judged, harmonious and certainly not over-the-top. The palate is soft and dry, with a gentle substance overlying a light tannic backbone and gentle acidity, rather soft and lacking focus in entirety, but there is substance here albeit with an oily edge to it, and there is a little perfume too. Overall rather low-key but in the context of the appellation in this vintage quite a good wine. 15+/20

Château Desmirail 2008: There is a smoky, nutty and rather meaty nose to this wine. A supple palate continues this style, with some depth to it, and with a soft style again though. There is more depth to it than some of the other wines from Margaux. There is a bit more grip too, and nice acidity. Overall soft and not entirely harmonious at present, although there is some meat to it. Interesting wine which may come together with time. 15+/20

Château Durfort-Vivens 2008: An attractive perfume on the nose here, all violets and gravel, crunchy and fresh. The palate is soft and lacking in vigour although underneath the lean and slightly oily substance there is a strong seam of grippy tannins, and there is good acidity also. If this comes together nicely on the palate this may make for an appealing bottle of wine as the aromatic profile is really quite attractive and very typical of old-school Margaux. 15.5+/20

Château Giscours 2008: This has better substance than its du Tertre stablemate and we can see this in the colour and in the texture of the wine. All the same it lacks charisma on the nose and the palate of the wine has a flat and hard shell of fruit with a rather dry and tannic back bone. There is some good acidity but overall this lacks impact, a feeling reinforced by the wine's soft finish. Compared to my impression at the primeurs I find this is not showing as well as expected. 14.5+/20

Château Lascombes 2008: Sweet fruit first on the nose here, then the choco-caramel-toast aromas of a rich application of oak. The palate has some astringent red fruit character at its core, completely dominated by the striking caramel and burnt marshmallow aromas of oak. Soft and overly supple, oily even, with low level structure, and gentle acidity. This doesn't have the most convincing appeal, although it is difficult to judge when so much oak is dominating a wine. In this vintage especially. 14.5+?/20

Château Rauzan-Ségla 2008: A crunchy, lightly perfumed nose here, with smoky red fruit and an element of undergrowth and gravel. Soft and supple on the palate, red fruits, lightly polished, there is a layer of tannins beneath giving the wine some grip. And some nice acidity at the fore too, more apparent as the wine firms up in the midpalate. There are some attractive elements here although it will take some time to allow the palate to knit together for this to show its true potential. 16+/20

Château du Tertre 2008: A rather lean colour here, and a nose redolent of soft, hot and smoky oil-lamp. Perhaps a touch vegetal too? The palate is a shell of structure without much in the way of enticing substance within. It has a rather hard layer of fruit, around which sits some smoke and tannin, with nice acidity at least. But it lacks impact and poise, and it has a short but tannic finish. A wine that translates the difficulties of the vintage I think. 14+/20

Moulis, Listrac, Médoc & Haut-Médoc

Château Poujeaux 2008: Aromatically this wine seems fairly well closed down right now. On the palate there are lots of tannins in the middle of the wine, with a layer of rather dry but gently polished fruit over the top. It does seem a little austere but there is at least some substance and backbone here. With appropriate time in the cellar this may make good drinking. 15.5+/20

Château Camensac 2008: Rather appealing with some dark and sweet fruit here, lightly tinged with violets, and on the palate some good depth to the fruit. The structure is quite soft and rounded but there is a good grip of tannins beneath and there is lively acidity too. Most of all there is an appealing edge of perfume to the fruit. Softly composed but it may well come together; overall this has some promise. 15.5+/20

Château La Lagune 2008: The blend here includes 15% Petit Verdot. Dark and substantial fruit on the nose, smoky, dense and reserved rather than the crystalline fruit further north. On the palate an appealing substance, well polished fruit, nicely judged tannic structure too, with a firm but savoury and mouth-watering quality to it. Lots of firm substance through the midpalate but there is a smooth and creamy layer of fruit over it all. The finish is solid with a substantial layer of fruit. Quality here, creamy black fruit character, a well-composed palate, and a fresh spicy finish. Very good potential here. 16.5+/20

Château La Tour Carnet 2008: A rather more sweet and lightly gamey style to the fruit here, and the fruit on the palate has a rich and creamy character to match, not just svelte but rather seductive and caressing, with a perfumed edge and a layer of ripe and spicy tannins hidden beneath. Lots of work done here I feel, but the end result is polished with a firm but not obtrusive grip and a well composed structure. I suspect with time this will drink really well although in a very plush, modern, accessible fashion. 16+/20