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Bordeaux 2004: Tasting, November 2007
Bordeaux 2004
At Two Years
At Three Years
Tasting, November 2007
At Four Years
With the first chance to take a look at the 2007 vintage looming large, and the current hype still centred around the exuberance of the 2005 vintage, what better time could there be to throw a few notes out there on one of the less exalted vintages of recent years?
The 2004 vintage has been in bottle for some time now, and indeed the wines have been available at retail for several months; I have even added some to my own cellar. Every chance to assess and reassess the wines provides a valuable reminder of the usefulness of this vintage, and confirms my early impressions that here we have a good quality vintage which provides us with wines bearing the combination of attributes that for many typify Bordeaux. The wines are not overly plump, fleshy, creamy, luscious or seductive, and so as a vintage it is quite distinct from that which preceded it and, indeed, that which followed. For this reason the wines on the whole will never command the interest which the 2003 and 2005 vintages are afforded. Nevertheless they have freshness, acidity, a good tannic structure and the best wines (it is certainly a vintage where you should choose carefully) will please many who lament the arrival of the New Bordeaux; the deeply coloured, extracted, alcohol-rich wines that some estates are churning out today.
No doubt the future will bring many more chances to assess this vintage, and for the moment the wines remain affordable, compared to counterparts from 2003 and 2005 (although not compared with much older vintages). Nevertheless, I do not feel compelled to open my Vieux Chateau Certan, Montrose or Pontet-Canet, all recently added to the cellar, just yet. These are wines that will certainly need time to show their best. Below are notes on other wines, all tasted in November 2007, including a number of wines of the vintage not previously assessed, including Monbousquet, Pavie and the wines of Chateau Faugères. (11/3/08)

Bordeaux 2004 - Tasting Notes
Tasted in November 2007. Click
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Chateau Phélan-Ségur (St Estèphe) 2004: CS 47%, M 51%, CF 2%. A little
Cabernet Franc in this vintage for Phélan-Ségur. Lovely, open, sweet fruit on
the nose, the oak is still resolving here, but it shows a good concentration of
fruit too. Good depth, structured, very complete style, a little dense, gritty
and perhaps a bit tight. Lovely structure overall and nicely balanced
components. Very good potential here. I like this a little more than my last
tasting. 16.5+/20
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Chateau d'Armailhac (Pauillac) 2004: This has a really nice character on the
nose, with quite classically styled dark fruit with a liquorice tone, showing a
little early rather wild and complex character already. Nice weight, texture and
depth on the palate. It is supple and rounded, truly very finely balanced, with
ripe tannins appearing just before the finish and gentle acidity. This has lots
of potential for the future. 16.5+/20
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Chateau Clerc-Milon (Pauillac) 2004: A denser hue than the equivalent
d'Armailhac, with dark fruits showing a slightly warm and spicy character.
Lovely weight on the palate, a supple style, well textured with ripe, well
composed and balanced tannins. There is good acidity behind it too. This is
really very good and has delicious potential for the cellar. 17+/20
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Chateau Lagrange (St Julien) 2004: A nice character here. On the
nose I find some sweet, dark fruit and there is still evidence of some buttery
oak too. There is a rich, cherry-laced aroma, rich but fresh as well. The palate
is attractive, balanced, with some depth and nicely rounded out fruit. Elegant,
not hugely deep and textured, but well styled, and a nice persistence.
Altogether this is very good and appealing , with good potential. Not that long
since I last tasted this I see, and it is showing well still. 17+/20
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Chateau Siran (Margaux) 2004: There is direct, vibrantly styled fruit
present in a lively fashion on the nose. It has a rather lean composition on the
palate, rather firm with apparent acidity, with a straight forward texture that
does little to impress. It has a nice flavour though, and it holds together well
on the finish, where it shows a little more flesh. Rather light on grip.
Overall, being generous, quite good. 14.5+/20
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Chateau d'Issan (Margaux) 2004: A really quite stylish nose here,
showing a good, typical Margaux perfume. Ripe fruit, attractive and brimming
with characterful aroma. Full, carrying good flavour at the start, then showing
a harder structure through the midpalate, but it continues with a good texture
and it has decent acidity. There is a nice but gentle, rounded sweetness to it.
Quite impressive. 16.5+/20
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Chateau Brane-Cantenac (Margaux) 2004: CS 67%, M28%, CF 5%. This has a
lovely open nose, and a good depth, with plenty of deep, ripe, dark fruits. It
has a concentration I admire, but with a minerally freshness too, and this seems
like a very attractive Brane-Cantenac. Cool composition on the palate, with
cherries, perhaps a touch medicinal in character but certainly fresh,
light-footed, clean and precise with a nice direction, but with a good depth of
flavour too. Underneath it all a gentle layer of ripe tannins. This has more
approachability than my tasting after bottling, and is impressive. 17+/20
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Chateau Sainte-Colombe (Côtes de Castillon) 2004: This is 70% Merlot,
fermented in oak using one-year old Pavie barrels. On the nose it is very
flashy, but it is attractive. Showing lots of rich blackberry fruit and
obviously a lot of oak too. Although rich, the nose does have a bright and
slightly crunchy feel, which I find appealing. Quite lean and crisp on the
palate, well defined, with a fairly bare structure of firm, ripe but hard
tannins overlaid with sharp, black fruits. The finish maintains this tannic
feel. A nice wine, although I am not sure how well this will come together.
15.5+?/20
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Chateau Cap de Faugères (Côtes de Castillon) 2004: This is 85% Merlot, 10%
Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, from vines that average 30 years of age,
and is from Chateau Faugères.
It spends 12 months in used oak. It has a very characteristic, meaty, fruit rich
nose, with a very ripe, slightly feral character. The texture on the palate is
lovely, it has an immediately apparent creaminess, but beneath this there is a
deeply set structure, good grip and firm acidity. A big, rich style showing a
wealth of sweet, dark fruit, but not overdone and nicely structured. Very good
potential 16.5-17+/20
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Chateau Faugères (St Emilion) 2004: Again this is 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet
Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, from vines that average 35 years of age. It spends
14 months in a mix of 50% used oak and 50% new. Lovely, pure, deep fruit on the
nose, with a dark, roasted, meaty style. This is very attractive. It has texture
and a fresh and admirable depth. The tannins are ripe and well balanced and
overall this is very nicely composed. It is stylish, concentrated, and it has a
dense finish. This has great potential. 17.5+/20
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Péby Faugères (St Emilion) 2004: A super-cuvée from
Chateau Faugères, this is 100% Merlot, a selection of the best
parcels. Oak fermented and matured, there are typically only 100 cases per
annum. It has a fine and concentrated nose, with deep fruit, particularly notes
of blackberries swirled in cream. There is a fine delineation and a good,
vigorous nature, overall a firm and yet creamy style. With good acidity and a
lovely backbone of well balanced tannins, this is in fact delicious. Wonderful
clarity on the finish. And not over-extracted. Excellent wine. 18+/20
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Chateau Fonroque (St Emilion) 2004: This has a lovely presence of fresh fruit
on the nose, vibrant with good fruit complexity already shining through, with
notes of dark liquorice. Full, creamily supple and gently weighty on the palate,
and overall this is really nicely put together. I think this is an under-rated
vintage for Bordeaux, and Alain Moueix was certainly in agreement with this
sentiment. 16.5-17+/20
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Chateau Pavie (St Emilion) 2004: A very dense and glossy appearance
here. The nose is appealingly aromatic, carrying the essence of freshly crushed
blackberries, perhaps a little cherry, alongside which there is plenty of
spice and aromatics derived from this wines time in oak, which exceeded 24
months. The palate is initially a little surprising, not showing a lot of flesh
at first, but this fills out in the midpalate and it has all the rich, creamy
texture here that you would expect. There is a wonderful depth of fruit, with a
pickling-spice complexity that sings extract, quality and promise to me. Deep,
structured, but harmonious, the tannins being firm and defined, but well covered
with fruit. This has excellent potential. 18+/20
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Chateau Monbousquet (St Emilion) 2004: There is a very intense and
even exotic character on the nose here, certainly evident complexity and depth
of character. This has been in 100% new oak for over 18 months and this shows as
a smoky, charcoal-tinged character in the aromatics I think, which rather hides
the fruit at present. Lots of ripe character on the palate, with pickling spices
rather like the Pavie, and pepper. It starts off a little soft and unknit but
shows better through the midpalate where the acidity comes out to provide some
definition. Good flavour. Ripe tannins and sufficient texture to match. It holds
together well on the finish. Excellent potential here. 17.5+/20
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Chateau Coutet (Barsac) 2004: Very youthful on the nose, with aromas of
honeysuckle and honey alongside some sweet and unresolved oak. The palate has a
fat and creamy nature, with a well rounded and broad presence. Although rich it
has elegance and freshness, defined by a nice backbone of acidity, as well as a
lovely floral edge. This is really very good indeed and could well be excellent
one day. 17.5+/20
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