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Bordeaux 2004: Pessac-Léognan
Bordeaux 2004
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Pessac-Léognan
Graves was a minor player at this 2004 Claret Tasting, hosted by the Institute of Masters of Wine in late 2008. Indeed, there were only nine wines up for tasting, compared to dozens from the more northerly Médoc communes and a similar showing from the right bank. Nevertheless, they were a great selection of wines, including Haut-Brion, La Mission Haut-Brion, the now defunct La Tour Haut-Brion, Pape-Clément and more. I doubt if there was a greater gathering of wines from Pessac-Léognan anywhere in the world that day.
It is by no means stating the obvious that Haut-Brion was my pick of the bunch from this grouping. After all, I have much more experience with La Mission, Haut-Brion's stablemate, and the two often vie for top position in any vintage, many tasters often coming down in favour of La Mission. But for me, on this day, at this tasting. Haut-Brion just pipped it, but both wines are delightful and full of potential for the cellar. The ever-successful Haut-Bailly was also on top form this day, followed closely by the rich style of Bernard Magrez's Pape-Clément, which surprisingly seems to have shed much of its oak, although it was rather closed down on the day and I suspect this may have influenced how much impact the oak had on its aromatic profile.
Domaine de Chevalier was one of the handful of wines which showed somewhat differently to my memory of it at two years of ago, showing a green streak which was not something I recalled from my tasting of it in 2006. Perhaps the buttery oak noted then somehow concealed this characteristic. Nevertheless, the quality was there, and for those that enjoy classically styled claret teetering on the brink of ripeness this would be a very good choice. There were no such issues with the wines from Brown, La Louvière and Smith-Haut-Lafitte, all of which showed well. (9/12/08)
Pessac-Léognan 2004: Tasting Notes
Tasted at the IMW 2004 Claret Tasting in November 2008. Click
to locate stockists.
Chateau Brown
2004: Today this wine seems fairly well closed down, giving nothing on the
nose at all. It has a good, fleshy start, with nice grip and a harmonious
texture. On the palate there is a lively character, nice vigour and a decent midpalate
substance. This wine, the first vintage made under the direction of
Jean-Christophe Mau and Stéphane Derenoncourt, has some good potential and will
no doubt open up with time. 16+/20
Domaine de Chevalier
2004: The buttery oak has faded here, revealing an interesting and more
complex nose. It has some warm and spicy fruit, with nuances of menthol and
liquorice, and there is a trace of greenness to the fruit too. The same
character can be found on the palate, which has a gentle light-cream texture
with soft fruits and a little hint of celeriac, elements I haven't seen on the two
occasions I have previously tasted this wine. Very restrained in terms of substance, good grip, and a nice peppery
length, but it seems very much like one for the classicists I feel. 16.5+/20
Chateau Haut-Bailly 2004:
Previously I described the nose here as 'so complete', and today it does not
disappoint. It has a beautiful, aromatic, pure, well-defined character with
lively, vibrant fruit. The palate has a very well-judged composition, with
evident middle-weight elegance just underpinned by a touch of cream to the
substance and a vein of ripe tannins. The structure is nicely covered, the
acidity lively, and there is an appealing touch of grit and extract to the
fruit. This is really excellent. 18+/20
Chateau Haut-Brion 2004: This has dark, rather meaty, very slightly
high-toned fruit on the nose, with a deeply buried, beefy-Bovril character.
There is much of this character on the nose which is very interesting. The
palate is dense, but elegant and harmonious, with a creamy but not fat
style. There is restraint, with a beautifully composed structure, the grip
and acid framing the elegant although rather meaty fruit perfectly. It has a
bright and lifted texture, and overall a beautiful style with dense complexity.
It finishes very well, and has great length. Just excellent. 18.5+/20
Chateau La Louvière 2004:
This has some appealing character on the nose, although I find that it is still
showing a trace of toffee-vanilla oak which has yet to integrate. But there is
plenty of nice, bright fruit here too. The palate is rounded, in fact a touch
fat, with a gentle grip. The fruit seems to be showing a little more complexity
than previously, with elements of smoke, tobacco and cigars. The tannins are
rather gentle, and it has moderate focus. It could be more vigorous or defined
but all the same it has good points. 15.5/20
Chateau
La Mission Haut-Brion 2004: This has a greater density of meaty fruit on
the nose, although it still has a bright and enticing character. The palate
starts off gently, showing a good ripe grip and a ripe, supple, fleshy and
balanced texture. There is a lovely harmony of fruit, with elements of meat stock
and spices, and a deep and savoury character, wrapped up in a fleshy texture.
This has fine tannins, great density, and is just brimming with potential. 18+/20
Chateau
La Tour Haut-Brion 2004: Today this is part of the
La Mission Haut-Brion stable. This is vibrant, high-toned and lively on the nose,
with raspberry fruit complicated by elements of furniture polish, liquorice and
violets. Elegant and harmonious on the palate at first, showing a little more
midpalate texture imbued with traces of caramel and vanilla from the oak. Softly
spiced with tobacco, there is a good substance, backed up by peppery tannins and
good acidity. At the moment it all seems very broad and unintegrated but given
time I think it will come good. 17+/20
Chateau Pape-Clément 2004:
On this tasting there is little to be found on the nose here; there is ripe
fruit, but to me this seems to be closing down. The palate is rather restrained,
dense but well focused, and the oak seems to have integrated well here. There
is a very serious tone to it, with well defined substance and texture, and a
good covering over the ripe core of tannins. There is subtle fruit complexity
here, and overall this is very appealing. It could, in time, be great. 17.5+/20
Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafitte 2004:
This has plenty of dense fruit on the nose, presented in a stylish and evocative
style, tinged with tobacco. It is fleshy, with dark fruits, a creamy texture, but
still very bright and stylish. This has weight and impact but it is not overdone. There is a core
of ripe tannins and an appealing backbone of acidity. Really a very good wine. 16.5+/20
