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Bordeaux 2003: Pessac-Léognan

Bordeaux 2003

Vintage Review

At Two Years

Pessac-Léognan

The Médoc Communes

St Emilion & Pomerol

Sauternes & Barsac

Towards Maturity

Tasting, June 2011

In Graves we have gravel of course, a soil type that drains very well and conceivably this might cause difficulties in a vintage characterised by heat stress and low rainfall. In addition, many of the region's best wines are white, and as I have already mentioned in my introduction to Bordeaux 2003 these have the most to lose, namely freshness and acidity, in the event of excessively hot weather. Nevertheless, freshness, acidity, and a floral-minerality are essential or attractive features in the red wines of the region also, and although this is a region dominated by Cabernet over Merlot it seems clear that the quality of the fruit for both white and red wines was in jeopardy here.

On tasting I found the whites to be a dismal lot; flabby, unfocused, lacking in freshness and flavour. I cannot recommend any of these. The reds were a fairly mixed bunch of fair to good wines, with a couple showing the problems that may come to be associated with this vintage; low acidity and incongruous tannins. (25/10/05)

Pessac-Léognan 2003: Tasting Notes

Tasted at the UGC de Bordeaux tasting in October 2005. Click to locate stockists.

White Wines

Château Carbonnieux Blanc 2003: Attractive, rather floral nose, showing mineral character, with a little cordite and gunpowder minerality. But the palate disappoints; rather fat, lacking in acidity and freshness. That mineral character found on the nose is nowhere to be seen. One to avoid. 12/20

Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 2003: This has more interest than the Carbonnieux on the nose, with more obvious minerally fruit. But the palate is soft, unfocused and flabby. There is some grip to it, but the acidity, and the verve, is lacking. Another to avoid. 12.5/20

Château de Fieuzal Blanc 2003: There is a little honeyed oak showing on the nose here. It has better grip. At least this gives the impression of some worthwhile flavour on the palate, but again the acidity and freshness is nowhere to be seen. Very disappointing. Avoid. 13/20

Château la Louvière Blanc 2003: A fresher, slightly citrussy, slightly minerally nose. Full palate, rounded and very dry honey notes. But once again the problem is low acidity and an unfocused impression on the palate. Another to avoid. This is clearly not a vintage for dry white Bordeaux. 13/20

Château Malartic-Lagravière Blanc 2003: Rather a nice, lifted nose here, showing some fresh grapefruit character, although really this is the best of a weak bunch. Some grip, and a presence in the mouth, but nevertheless deficient in the all-important acidity. Avoid. 13/20

Red Wines

Château Carbonnieux 2003: A nose of blackberries and butter here, indicating a very ripe fruit profile with some residual oak influence. Full and moderately creamy style on the palate, with decent tannins, which are ripe and nicely composed. There is decent acidity and blackberry fruit. This has a supple, attractive style. Rather good. Has potential. 16+/20

Domaine de Chevalier 2003: A subtle and yet rather exotic character to the nose here, with a peppery quality. There is finesse here; this has an elegant style on the palate, with just a creamy edge to it. There are firm, rather masculine tannins although quite well knitted into the structure of the wine. Very firm, appealing style which has been really well assembled. Lots of potential here. 17+/20

Château de Fieuzal 2003: I poured my first sample at an unoccupied stand, only to find it corked. The second showed slightly exotic nuances to blackberry fruit and a little unresolved, buttery oak. Rather lean and under-powered on entry, and a rather hollow midpalate, with some good primary fruit flavours but otherwise short on character or texture. And very firm tannins too. Overall rather incongruous. 15.5/20

Château la Louvière 2003: A rather reluctant nose, although it does have a fine, pure, primary fruit character. Full and ripe style on the palate, with an admirable texture and presence. Nice tannic structure, quite firm, a good grippy style, but rather spoiled by insufficient acidity I thought. Merely good. 15/20

Château Malartic-Lagravière 2003: Youthful, primary fruit and oak-derived nutty character to the nose. Rounded, with nice tannic structure, although rather a lean presence of fruit through the midpalate. Clean, and attractive style, although quite simple; but should develop well for mid-term drinking. 15.5/20

Château Haut-Bailly 2003: A rather muted nose. A little perfume, but otherwise not showing much at all. There is a full, nicely textured character on the palate, with ripe and supple, although still rather firm, tannins through the midpalate and finish. There is a creaminess to the style, and the palate is nicely knitted together, and the wine has a presence right through to the finish. This is potentially the best wine here I think, and is merely closed down today. Really nicely composed albeit rather muted, and I hope this may be more expressive with time. 17+/20