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Bordeaux 1996: Tasting, April 2007

Bordeaux 1996

Tasting, July 2001

Tasting, October 2002

Tasting, April 2007

This tasting looked at some of the leading Cru Bourgeois properties of Bordeaux, such as Potensac, Poujeaux and d'Angludet, as well as the nebulously difficult to classify Gloria. In addition, there were a good number of lesser properties, as well as a duo from the other side of the Gironde, in the shape of a couple of Fronsacs.

My opinion of this vintage is now well-formed, and this tasting has served only to strengthen my feeling about it; many of the wines from the left bank were really very good indeed. Most notable were Potensac and Gloria, and I am glad to have a few more of these in the cellar for future assessments. Also very good were Poujeaux, which would have benefited from several more years in bottle, Liversan surprisingly so, and also Ormes de Pez, but sadly in each case this was my only bottle. I shall just have to console myself with future bottles of d'Angludet, another wine that continues to perform well, although it is still very much on the way up. (7/4/07)

Bordeaux 1996 - Tasting Notes

Tasted in April 2007. Click to locate stockists:

Chateau de la Rivière (Fronsac) 1996: Showing rather obvious maturity now, with a beefy, claretty nose with notes of smoky cherry. This has clearly moved on a lot since I last tasted it, which was surprisingly three years ago now. Rather lean presence on the palate now, taking some time to open out, showing a very reserved style through the midpalate, leaner than I recall, but certainly savoury and firm, in all a rather traditional style. It has a good flavour and is certainly fresh and food friendly. Rather short finish, but otherwise good. 15/20

Chateau La Vieille Cure (Fronsac) 1996: Rather a deep, glossy colour, but with a bright and vibrant transparency and showing some maturity. An enticing nose, although it takes quite a lot of time for it to open out, eventually revealing smoky, claretty, roast beef aromas with a minerally, stony undercurrent. On the palate it presents an attractive, plump texture, but has rather an open-knit, loose style, although backed up by some mean grippy, dry tannins. There is a slightly stewed, cooked plum fruit feel to it although this impression mainly comes from the texture, and it has a fairly fresh acidity and is not tiring to drink. Short, but characterful finish. Good, despite a rather unfocussed midpalate. 15.5/20

Chateau Tour-St Bonnet (Médoc) 1996: A dark, mature hue. There is a complex nose which opens and develops during the evening, first offering some blackcurrant and cherry fruit and sweet cough candy, followed by more meaty, organic, green notes with a little garden mint. The palate is reserved, with dry fruit, pleasantly textured, firmly composed, with a traditional style. There are fleeting moments of flesh and pleasure, becoming more persistent as the wine has more exposure to the air. On the whole this is an admirable spinster of a wine, dry with a trace of acetic volatility, but with a soft centre. There is a little lean extract, and a short, dry, slightly tannic finish. Good 15.5/20

Chateau Potensac (Médoc) 1996: A dark, claretty hue, with a cherry red rim. The nose is dark, smoky, with crisply bright yet deep, meaty fruit. More of the same on the palate, where the fruit has a precise, admirable presence with a warm, roasted yet fresh style. This has a very well defined structure, very upright, classic in nature, with a fine grip beneath. There is some bitterness to the fruit, which adds a delightful complexity. This is really very good indeed. I have a few more in the cellar, and I think these would benefit from being left a few years yet. 17+/20

Chateau Liversan (Haut-Médoc) 1996: A nice, deep colour in the decanter, still showing a lot of youth and potential I think. A gentle nose, not exuberant, but with notes of warm, sun-baked stones, crunchy fruit with a rather green, smoky, tobacco, claretty character. Nicely presented on entry, with good texture and weight, and a welcoming, almost plump feel. Rather soft acidity, and underneath a fine vein of tannins which not only give an appealing structure, but which also suggest that this wine will yet develop further. There is certainly some appeal here. I think this wine, which lingers on the palate with a soft yet grippy, extracted feel, is a success for Liversan. Good. 16.5/20

Chateau Verdignan (Haut-Médoc) 1996: A good depth of colour, attractive maturity, clear and vibrant. There are certainly some appealing notes of maturity on the nose also, which has a little baked fruit and tobacco cut through by a little stalky greenness. Quite soft on entry, open and rather loose knit through the midpalate, with a peppery spice and just some spicy tannin on the finish. Moderate concentration. Nice, green peppercorn bite which wouldn't appeal to all. Just a little unripeness here but this still has an appealing character, despite its rather soft style. 14.5/20

Chateau Coufran (Haut-Médoc) 1996: A fairly dark but certainly not opaque colour, and showing certain maturity. Rather hard and withdrawn at first, it does open out to reveal stony stony-cedary aromas, rather appealing in a simple, rustic fashion. Good presence on the palate, full, a nice tannic backbone, but it certainly has a hard austerity that persists through to the finish. There is no softness or elegance here. Quite good with food through. 14.5/20

Chateau Les Ormes de Pez (St Estèphe) 1996: This wine has a lovely colour, still with a vibrant raspberry-red rim, despite notes of obvious maturity too. The nose holds much promise, with a very stony, crisp, mineral personality, with notes of crushed raspberries and liquorice. Delightful freshness on the palate, with a crisp, minerally texture, but with a fine balance of terse tannins and fine acidity. This has a really fine presence on the palate, is beautifully fresh, and yet has a touch of warmth. Really very good style here, nicely integrated, and ready to drink. 17/20

Chateau Pibran (Pauillac) 1996: A dark, richly coloured wine, quite deep. A stylish nose, full and expressive, a little nuttiness detectable behind the dark fruit profile. Similar character on the palate, which has a full texture, although there is a touch of greenness to the fruit and fresh acidity which lend it a rather bright mouthfeel. I find it rather attractive overall, through to the slightly plump finish. Good. 16/20

Chateau Poujeaux (Moulis) 1996: Showing a little early maturity, but still plenty of ruddy pigment here, and a good depth of colour too. A little reticent on the nose, quiet and withdrawn, but when it does speak its voice is one of earthy, macerated fruit, later delineating to give a more classic, stony profile. On the palate a firm structure, much more apparent than the fruit or flavour at the moment, although there are pleasurable notes of peppery, berry fruit. Grippy midpalate and finish. It has a meaty, slightly beefy style which will further improve in the cellar, and after a few hours it begins to show a little of the freshness, direction and poise that is so desirable. Overall a little reticent still, I suspect this needs 3-4 more years before it is à point. 17+/20

Chateau d'Angludet (Margaux) 1996: Almost a year on since my last tasting note for this wine. A dark core, with a cherry pink rim, showing a little maturity. Quite withdrawn on the nose though, showing a little cedary fruit, not the primary fruit it previously displayed, although it does open out to give some notes of minerals stones and charcoal. Nicely textured, midweight, perhaps rather austere, leading to a bitter grip on the finish. Rather subdued, not quite ready to come out of its shell just yet, but the potential is there. 16.5+/20

Chateau Gloria (St Julien) 1996: Last tasted nearly two years ago. A lovely colour, still with depth, fading out to a maturing orange-raspberry rim. Good aromatics, stony, with sweet and mature fruit, with a little meaty iron. Lovely weight on entry, lithe and balanced, and it remains well poised yet somewhat detached though the midpalate, with a slightly chalky tannic backbone. It shows a tannic bite on the finish still, but this is certainly very drinkable now. Complex flavours throughout, quite organic, rather like burnt undergrowth, rather curranty fruit, certainly very appealing. It has a little curranty length too. Will still benefit from further cellar time, but fine now. 17+/20