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Bordeaux 1996: Tasting, October 2002
Bordeaux 1996
Towards Maturity
Tasting, October 2002
This was yet another tiny selection of wines, this time assessed in 2002, at six years of age. It was rather an eclectic mixture, taking in one very pleasant but little-known second wine, two rather old-school Cru Bourgeois estates and two of the classed growth properties.
Canuet, the second wine of Cantenac-Brown, showed a good, rather lean typicite; it lacked the concentration of a grand vin, but within conext it was very good indeed. Coufran was solid, as ever. Cantemerle showed very well, and this wine will doubtless give me much pleasure over the coming years. The same, indeed, could also be said of Grand-Puy-Ducasse. But all the more serious wines undoubtedly need appropriate time in the cellar. (9/10/02)
Bordeaux 1996 - Tasting Notes
Tasted in October 2002. Click
to locate
stockists:
Chateau Canuet (Margaux) 1996: The second
wine of Chateau Cantenac-Brown. It is just over two years since I last tasted
this wine. It is one of the
more youthful looking wines in the line-up, with a purple tinge to the red.
Initially seems a little dirty and subdued on the nose, but to my relief this
blows off leaving pure fruit, although with an earthy, mineral streak. Medium
bodied on the palate, it actually displays some good richness at the right
temperature and after some aeration. Correct acidity, good fruit and a firm,
sinewy texture. Some attractive notes of perfume. This is pleasing stuff.
15.5/20
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Chateau Coufran (Haut-Médoc)
1996: A
fairly deep red wine, with a rich earthy hue. The nose seems fairly clumsy at
first, being quite hard, ungiving, with just a touch of cedar. With a few hours in the glass it opens to reveal
a little more fruit. Initially hard and lean on the palate also, aeration fattens it
up a bit and it develops quite a nice texture. There are some spicy tannins and
strong, vibrant acidity. A spicy, tingling finish. Another wine that will benefit
from a year or two more in bottle, although approachable now. 14.5/20
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Chateau Tour-St Bonnet (Médoc) 1996: A good, vibrant, deep red hue.
The nose is firm, with lean, wiry blackcurrant fruit, and stone and smoke
character. Medium bodied on the palate, with strong acidity, mild tannins and
some decent fruit. A lean although classically styled wine. May benefit from a
year or two more in bottle. 15/20
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Chateau Cantemerle (Haut-Médoc)
1996: Lovely red-purple colour of youth. The nose, after a few minutes,
gives off some delightful sweet cassis fruit, with cigar box character. Later
more rose petal and violet nuances appear. Plenty of extract on the palate,
which has good, floral fruit, with a smoky, burnt edge, and ripe tannins,
although with a dry, chalky edge. Correct acidity. Sweet and peppery fruit,
which later takes on a burnt plum jam character. Firm, masculine texture despite
the floral edges. Needs 2-3 years. 16.5+/20
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Chateau Grand-Puy-Ducasse (Pauillac) 1996:
A dense and glossy
purple wine. The nose has captivating aromas of roasted meats and tarry fruit. A
full bodied impression on the palate, roundly textured, with big, firm tannins.
There's an austere edge to the flavour profile, which has touches of dried, roasted
meats and beef extract. Correct acidity. Needs 3-4 years. 16.5+/20
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