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Bordeaux 1994: Tasting, April 2007
Every Bordeaux vintage that passes today seems to be characterised by a certain level of hype. To some extent this enthusiasm may be warranted, because greater investment, increased care in the vineyard, willingness to perform a rigorous selection, vinification in clean and well equipped cellars with temperature control and a healthy presence of new oak all mean that the upper echelons of Bordeaux are better positioned than they have ever been to deal with testing vintages. So even in lesser years, there are still usually good and even exciting wines to be found.
But it was not always this way. Following the success of the 1990 vintage, Bordeaux experienced three very difficult harvests, with a very small number of interesting wines as a result. There are always exceptions of course, as witnessed by my recent tasting of Fleur de Gay 1993. Nevertheless, when 1994 arrived, it was seen as a blessed relief. But of course the wines do not please everybody. The vintage has, over the years, certainly taken on a reputation for being dry, structured and perhaps lacking flesh and substance in some cases. There is a lot of tannin and not so much fruit and texture to cover it, leading to descriptions such as 'classic' or 'vin de garde' on one hand, 'austere' and 'charmless' on the other. Certainly these are not wines that flatter with an opulent texture or a creamy richness. All the same, in many cases they are delightful, providing one is looking for fresh, structured wines of typicité, that drink well with food. Just what Bordeaux is for. (24/5/07)
Bordeaux 1994 - Tasting Notes
Tasted in April 2007. Click
to locate stockists.
Chateau de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 1994: A fairly rich golden colour. It has a very mature and
secondary nose now, with notes of nuts, mushrooms, honey and perhaps just a
little volatility that I haven't noted before. Mirroring my previous
experiences, there are little notes of lime oil. On the palate it is quite firm,
still holding together well, with lots of mature nutty character. There is firm
acidity, a full, dry texture and a lot of peppery spice on the finish. This
bottle isn't showing so well as some of the others, and certainly seems to be
more tired than the last, which was barely a year ago, but it is a minuscule
point. It has a lovely style, but as a note of caution there is some heat on the finish.
On the basis of this bottle I think this is probably at peak and I would keep to five years rather than
eight. 17/20
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Chateau La Louvière
(Pessac-Léognan) 1994: Only a year or two since I last had a bottle, but
this wine was beginning to drink well then. Today it has a deep red colour,
still showing just some early maturity, and lots of maturing style on the nose.
There are some fresh red fruits, deep, ripe and yet crisp and fresh, alongside
aromas of tobacco leaves, the gentlest touch of undergrowth, and little notes of
dark, smoky coffee grounds too. Fresh yet rounded, still quite firm and grippy
through the midpalate, but with plenty of deliciously slightly bitter flavours,
more tobacco and red fruits. A firm, warming finish. This is very pleasing to
drink, shows great typicité, and should improve over some years yet. 17+/20
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Chateau Haut-Bailly (Pessac-Léognan) 1994: From a half-bottle. This
wine has a dark, maturing hue, although it still has plenty of pigment. There
are notes of classic, maturing, claretty fruit on the nose, with a rather solid,
violet-tinged perfume. It is firm rather than delicate, on the nose as well as
the palate, where it demonstrates a full, spicy, peppery grip. Ageing nicely,
with a nice broad flavour, but overall a little stolid, with little of the
delicate perfume that makes Graves so appealing. But I think this wine has
plenty to offer yet. 17+/20
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Chateau Cos d'Estournel (St Estèphe) 1994: Little sediment. Decanted
and drank over the course of the evening. An appealing, dark hue. A glorious
nose though, so typical of Cos. At first it gives just a little claretty
blackcurrant, laced with nuances of green peppercorn and liquorice, before
opening out to give a full blast of gravelly and violet-infused perfume, with
the spicy complexity of cumin, backed by lifted fruit freshness. This is lovely,
and simply dripping with style. Beautifully fresh from the
outset, with a very complete, balanced composition that glides effortlessly across
the palate, with only the bumping around of some ripe but unresolved tannins to
prevent absolute maximal pleasure right now. But on the positive side these are
ripe and sweet, and give a fine bite to it. Lovely rounded, wholesome
finish. This is just delicious. I am so sorry that I have only one more bottle
of this. 18.5+/20
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Chateau
Haut-Bages-Libéral (Pauillac) 1994: Fine moderately deep colour, pink-claret rim, little age apparent,
rather like my last note which was a few years ago now. Cedary, open, peppery, sweet smoky cherry fruit, plump
warm and welcoming. Full, mouthfilling, broad and warm on entry. Harder
midpalate, still some slightly angular structure, but much more balanced and
approachable than last time. Much more rounded, more composed wine. Really nice
with food. Lovely freshness throughout. As previously noted it lacks a little flesh
and substance, but this is a nice drinker's claret. 16+/20
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Chateau Pontet-Canet
(Pauillac) 1994: Decanted, but a surprisingly small amount of sediment
here. The nose is warm, open and very nicely scented, and is certainly less
reticent than my last bottle which was over a year ago now. It has some
beautiful aromas, with violets the most prominent feature, followed by a gentle,
iron and mineral note in the background. Fresh, moderately expansive, with a
nicely rounded but well delineated texture on the palate, still a little grippy
towards the finish, with just a little, slightly bitter, tannic note which
suggests this wine has more to offer for the future. Quite vigorous, a finely
balanced composition, and very much alive. Fine potential, but approachable now.
18+/20
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Chateau Léoville-Barton
(St Julien) 1994: A lovely colour in the decanter, showing some maturity
but still with depth and vibrancy. Quite a classic, reserved yet stylish nose,
with aromas of iron and claretty, charred meat, with a violet perfume too. Fresh
style on the palate, rich in character, but a touch of austerity that comes with
the vintage I think. It has sufficient flesh on its bones though, a firm texture
that matches nicely the backbone of well integrating tannin, which is certainly
further gone than my last tasting in 2005. Firm acidity. Very upright and
correct. Very good drinking from an occasionally under-rated vintage. 18+/20
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Chateau Coutet (Barsac) 1994: A pale golden hue, belying the vintage. An appealing nose,
offering up some scents of quince and oranges presented in a very sweet and
bright style, although there is some volatility too. The initial impression is
of a sweet, creamy wine with a decent substance, although through the midpalate
and on subsequent tastes it is clear that this wine is a touch simple and
straightforward. It is delicate, with a rather floral, chalky character. Not a
bad wine, but a lightweight with a short finish. But this is all within the
context of a weak vintage for Sauternes & Barsac. A good effort, I suppose. 15.5/20
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