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Bordeaux 1985

The 1985 vintage was just one of many successful vintages for Bordeaux during the 1980s. Both 1982 and 1983 had their excellent wines, the former across the board, the latter particularly in Margaux. The 1981 vintage also has its merits, and in 1980 there were some excellent Sauternes produced. Only 1984 disappointed.

The year began with a cold snap, and this was followed by some cool, damp Spring weather. July was hot but also wet, whereas August was cold but at least it was dry. To some, the 1984 vintage may have begun to look more attractive. The wise, however, kept their hands in their pockets, and they received their reward in September, harvest month, which was the driest and hottest it had been since the weather records began. Harvesting took place towards the end of the month, taking full advantage of this wonderful end to the growing season. The Merlot grapes were ripe and of good quality, but the later ripening Cabernet Sauvignon were less impressive. Those that delayed the harvest of Cabernet into October reaped further rewards.

Over the past few years the 1985 vintage has gained a reputation for being attractive, ripe and, in my opinion, perfect for current drinking. The condition of the Merlot means that there are many appealing right bank wines from Pomerol and St Emilion. Chateaux of the Médoc communes and Graves that delayed picking also produced some excellent Cabernet based wines. The producers of Sauternes and Barsac were less fortunate, however, as here the September drought inhibited the development of Noble Rot, meaning that the sweet wines of this vintage are not generally very exciting. (18/9/02)

Bordeaux 1985 - Tasting Notes

Tasted in September 2002. Click to locate stockists.

Pauillac

Chateau Batailley (Pauillac) 1985: This has a red-tawny ochre colour. Another gorgeous nose, with a touch of power. Classic style, with gravelly notes. A full, firm rounded texture on the palate. Nicely structured, big and sweet fruit, with a peppery edge. Pauillac style, with some fudge and tobacco notes. 17/20

St Julien

Chateau Léoville-Barton (St Julien) 1985: A deep red hue with a touch of tawny. Absolutely classic on the nose – intense mineral fruit, with some notes of caramel. It still has plenty of fruit, lovely tannins and pepper-like acidity. Elegant, medium bodied, and delicious. Classically styled and structured. 18.5/20

Chateau Langoa-Barton (St Julien) 1985: This wine also has a youthful appearance, vibrant red, with just a tawny rim demonstrating its advancing age. The nose is open and suggests gorgeous, lush, sweet fruit. The palate doesn’t disappoint, although it has a classic St Julien mineral and stone character. Medium bordering on full bodied, quite classic in style although quite rich, with acidity on the soft side. Integrated tannins. Lovely. 18.5+/20

Chateau Léoville-Las-Cases (St Julien) 1985: Like a few other wines tonight this demonstrates its potential even with its colour, which is red cut through with a purple streak of youth. Stylish, classically styled St Julien fruit with a hard, tarry character. There is a sense of a full, sweet richness to it. On the palate it is clear that this firm, tannic, backward wine is still in the ascendant. Firm fruit and balanced acidity provide the potential for future development. 18.5+/20

Margaux

Chateau Rausan-Ségla (Margaux) 1985: This has a good, youthful colour. The nose is simply gorgeous – sweet fruit, superbly perfumed, with a toffee streak. This classy wine has Margaux written all over it. The palate has a firm, rounded texture and a medium body. It is full, with sweet fruit, and very elegant. Correct tannins provide structure, and in balanced with totally correct acidity. A complete and harmonious wine. 19/20

Pessac-Léognan

Chateau Pape-Clément (Pessac-Léognan) 1985: This is a dark red wine with a tawny hue. Stylish nose, full of fruit with some toffee character. Very firm and muscular on the palate, with sweet, tarry fruit. Great tannins which lie in the background providing structure. Good acidity. Well balanced. 18/20

St Emilion

Chateau Larcis Ducasse (St Emilion) 1985: The most youthful colour of the two St Emilions, and indeed one of the most youthful appearances of any wine here. Lovely scents on the nose, pure crushed fruit with a floral, violet edge. Toffee, liquorice and cough-candy notes bring up the rear. Medium bodied, with hard, mineral-edge fruit. There are still some spicy tannins and some peppery acidity. The more elegant, floral characteristics show through on the finish. 17.5/20

Chateau La Dominique (St Emilion) 1985: This has a much more mature, dark red-tawny hue. The nose is unclean, in fact simply awful – green and vegetal, full of stewed broccoli and cabbage. On the palate (yes, I tasted it, although I could not drain the glass) there is in fact a nice texture, and I sense some good fruit behind the dirty flavours that mirror the nose. Soft tannins and correct acidity. This is a great shame, as I have the impression that there is a lovely wine underneath all this. Not rated.