Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 1995: A fine, mid-golden hue, and although there are initially some fat bubbles on the inside of the glass, the bead is really quite fine. A lovely nose, quite subtle, opening out over a few hours to reveal little notes of brioche and praline. Quite fine on entry, rounded and just a little creamy, developing a more full presence through the midpalate. Behind it there lies a delightful acid structure, present through to the finish, which is perhaps a little firm and rather curt. But this wine simply needs time, and behind the praline-laced citrus fruit shows only the barest trace of the complexity that will come with ageing this for another five years and more. Excellent. 18.5+/20

Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape 1994: I was intent on cracking open the first from my case of the 1998; young I know, but what's the harm when you have a dozen? When I saw it buried beneath twenty other cases, however, I settled on the 1994, which was much more accessible. Good colour, a deep core, maturing rim. The nose displays a little disjointed alcohol, but this is more than compensated for by the meaty, furry, black olive character that is also present. Medium bodied, correct acidity, full and pleasing mouthfeel. Rather firm, just a little solid through the midpalate, but plenty of smoky, garriguey, underbrush appeal too. Very ripe, together, not-quite-seamless style, with some length. Very little development since my last tasting. Very good. 16.5+/20

Chateau Rausan-Ségla 1982: I wasn't expecting much from this wine; several sources of information suggested that this was a rather mediocre example of 1982, with Broadbean describing it as "lean and piquant" back in 1991. Hmmm. Great fill on this bottle, within a centimetre of the cork; this comes from a trustworthy source and has impeccable provenance. Lovely mature mahogany colour in the decanter, having decanted it off a very light sediment. Lovely nose, mature and meaty, a little caramel sweetness and a bloody, black olive note. Medium bodied, elegantly textured, certainly not lean. If anything quite a full midpalate, although with spicy, peppery acidity providing quite an edge. A fine, mature quality, ending with an appealing, meaty, somewhat chalky flourish. Very good indeed. Holding well, but lovely to drink now. 18/20

Chateau Rieussec (Sauternes) 1986: From one of my favourite Sauternes vintages, a vintage that, surprise, surprise, I wish I owned and drank more of. A light tartrate sediment, but otherwise a crystal clear mid-gold colour. A wonderful nose, honeyed, full of quince, barley sugar, all very bright and lifted. This is very fine. The same impression comes from the palate, which is upright and mineral, showing a little chalkiness through the midpalate. Full, quince and honey flavour, elegantly creamy but with very precise, well delineated acidity. A lovely balanced sweetness, and a divine length. This is an absolute stunner, which in terms of maturity is still very much on the up I feel. Excellent. 19+/20