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Australian Shiraz: Tasting, March 2001
Australia has a fabulous wine heritage, and in fact many of the original wine styles were fortified wines often made using Muscat. Despite this Australia is now best known for her table wines, and if there is one grape with which there has been great success it has been Shiraz. From easy drinking, great value wines up to iconic bottles such as Penfolds Grange and Jim Barry's Armagh, there is a bottle for every occasion.
Shiraz is produced in all the important wine regions, but the original styles were the massive Barossa Shiraz from the likes of Peter Lehmann and Yalumba, versus the complex, sweaty, leathery wines of the Hunter Valley from the likes of Tyrell's. With such success though it was inevitable that winemakers elsewhere would plant this vine in their vineyards too. From the Barossa Valley it didn't have far to move to McLaren Vale, or to Clare Valley where Tim Adams is based, but there are also excellent styles available from as far away as the Margaret River region in Western Australia and, of course, the brilliant wines of Ron Laughton of Jasper Hill in Victoria. (6/3/01)
Australian Shiraz - Tasting Notes
Tasted in March 2001. Click
to locate
stockists.
Tim Adams Aberfeldy
(Clare Valley, South Australia) 1995: Incredible, opaque purple colour. Initially, like
many of the wines, the nose is all sweet blackcurrant and blackberry pastilles,
with other complexities developing as the wine aerates in the glass. The nose
evolves into a minty, menthol-laden affair, with a rich seam of chocolate. A
really smooth palate, rich with more chocolate and mint. Notable acids with a
green fruit characteristic, later on a touch sherbetty. The tannins and acid are
more prominent on the big, chewy finish. Good length. 17/20
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Leasingham Classic
Clare (Clare Valley, South Australia) 1995: A rich,
opaque, inky red wine. Seems a little sweaty and leathery
at first, but this fades, leaving rich fruit and toasty
oak. Another rich, glycerol-laden palate. Quite tannic,
packed with fruit, and notable acidification on the
forepalate. Interesting coffee and dark chocolate
complexity. Spicy finish leading into a good length. 17/20
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Peter Lehmann Stonewell
(Barossa Valley, South Australia) 1992: This wine,
although similarly opaque, is a dark red hue. A rich
nose, initially black berry fruits, but then more
chocolate and mint, although less obvious than the
previous wine. Develops coconutty American oak aromas. Ripe fruit on the
palate, tannic but elegant and finely structured, with good acidity.
Clean finish. This wine seems less oaky than more recent
vintages of the Stonewell - perhaps it has just had more time to
integrate. 17/20
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Yalumba Octavius
(Barossa Valley, South Australia) 1993: Like all the remaining wines
in this flight, this is a dense, dark, opaque wine. Gorgeous nose here -
raspberries and cream, black Shiraz fruit and black pepper. On the
palate a combination of very typical ripe black fruits, good oak, and a
creamy, luscious texture. Tannins and acidity prominent and provide
structure. 17/20
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Tyrell's Vat 9 (Hunter
Valley, New South Wales) 1993: Less opaque than the other wines, a
red purple hue. Smoky, rich fruit on the nose, lots of toffee oak and
some reported cloves. With time develops an earthy aroma which sets it
apart from the other wines in this flight. On the palate it has big,
green tingling acidity. Has less body than the other wines (which is no
bad thing) and earthy fruit. More obvious green acidity on the finish.
To me it seems a bit disjointed and/or over-acidified, but others praise
it. 14/20
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Tatachilla Foundation
(McLaren Vale, South Australia) 1995: Almost opaque red-black wine.
The nose is laden with toffee oak and rich, ripe fruit. The palate is
hugely oak-dominated, packed to the brim with ripe fruit, prominent
acidity and big tannins. It has a sweet, full, glycerol-laden texture.
Some black pepper. Tremendous length. The typical
award-winning over-the-top structure should have
suggested to me it was the Tatachilla - winner of
the Jimmy Watson Trophy when released. 17.5/20
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Rosemount Balmoral
Syrah (McLaren Vale, South Australia) 1994: Another dense wine. A big nose of chocolate
and fruit, with a stylish, elegant, perfumed edge. An impressive mixture of
fruit and acidity, with less prominent tannins. 17/20
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Jim Barry Armagh
(McLaren Vale, South Australia) 1994: Another opaque wine. Rich, also vegetal and stinky
nose. Loaded with red and black fruits on the palate. Softer than the previous
wine, with a more advanced integration of the tannins. Lovely structure, a
massive wine. 18/20
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Penfolds Grange (South
Australia) 1993: Very dense and opaque. A stinky, complex, vegetal and
undergrowth nose. Aromas of beetroot and spices, with a layer of rich, sweet
blackcurrant fruit. This is a huge, multifaceted wine. The palate has big
tannins, firm acidity, and is very rich, with layers of fruit. Undoubtedly this
is Grange. 18.5/20
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Jasper Hill Georgia's
Paddock (Heathcote, Victoria) 1994: Quite opaque. Restrained on the nose.
Opens out a little, giving some red and black fruit gum sweetness. Raspberry and
coffee flavours on the palate, with some toffee oak. Rich, balanced, quite
elegant. A delicious wine, but somewhat overshadowed in this company. 16/20
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