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Australian Cabernet

Although the best known Australian red wines are made using the Shiraz grape - with Penfolds Grange undoubtedly the most iconic - there is a wealth of other red varieties which are responsible for some lovely wines from this continent. Although there are some brilliant wines made from Grenache, such as Tim Adams Fergus and the wines of Clarendon Hills, as well as some good Pinot Noir from relatively cool regions such as Mornington Peninsula, it is Cabernet Sauvignon that takes second place behind Shiraz.

My personal preference is for relatively cool climate Cabernet Sauvignon, such as the wines of Cape Mentelle and Leeuwin Estate in Western Australia, rather than those from hotter climes. That isn't to say there aren't some fabulous wines from Australia's longest established regions, but I find more elegance and balance in the wines of the Margaret River region than in those of McLaren Vale and Coonawarra. (26/2/03)

Australian Cabernet - Tasting Notes

Tasted in September 2004. Click to locate stockists:

Elderton Cabernet Sauvignon (Barossa, South Australia) 1994: Amazingly still a little purple at the rim, but with a dark core. Dense, macerated, dark berry fruits, exotic and smoky. Full, balanced on the palate, with plenty of structure still. Tannins show on the midpalate. Firm acidity. A good fluid mouthfeel behind it. Alcohol seems a touch disjointed though. 15.5+/20

Wirra Wirra 'The Angelus' Cabernet Sauvignon (McLaren Vale, South Australia) 1994: Corked. Not rated.

Wynns Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra, South Australia) 1994: Very dark, through to a deep red rim. Very dense nose, smoky-stony, leathery-sweaty blackcurrant fruit. Creamily coats the palate, with peppery tannins and extract. Even at this age it leaves the mouth coated with tannin. Soft and supple feel beneath it though. Has impressive potential for what is a basic cuvée. Needs five years at least. 15.5+/20

Howard Park Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot (Margaret River, Western Australia) 1994: Dark, glossy wine. Minty, chocolatey, brooding fruit. A big, concentrated wine, with super extract. Very ripe black fruit. Spicy structure, firm tannins. Delicious quality. Drink in five to fifteen years. 17+/20

Leasingham Classic Clare Cabernet Sauvignon (Clare Valley, South Australia) 1994: Dark and glossy, with a red-purple rim. Treacle toffee, leather, mint, ripe sweet fruit. Rounded and creamy palate. Slightly vegetal and leathery, a little open-knit, although it has tannin. Delightful. Drink now and over the next ten years. 16/20

Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon (Margaret River, Western Australia) 1994: Very dark. Serious, mineral and cordite nose, complex, with dark blackcurrant fruit. Very concentrated fruit, with a glossy, pure blackcurrant feel. Good structure and extract. Full and impressive. Excellent. Drink over the next ten years. 17.5+/20

Petaluma Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra, South Australia) 1994: Moderately dark hue. Perfumed, stony and elegant nose. Dense and mature though. Full, balanced, fluid and creamy palate. Good ripe structure. Fine acidity. This is impressive; delicious, approachable, yet serious. Drink over the next ten years. 17.5+/20

Tasted in February 2003:

Yalumba Menzies Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra, South Australia) 1996: A good colour. Lots of sweet fruit on the nose, raspberry and blackcurrant, with a fruit pastille intensity. Lovely texture, with very ripe and sweet fruit. The tannins are ripe and firm, with a reasonable level of acidity. The necessary structure for some further development in bottle is present. 16+/20

Hardy's Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra, South Australia) 1995: Plenty of colour, with just a tinge of brick red maturity. Initially fairly hard and charmless, it opens out in the glass, giving aromas of roasted dark fruits, minerals and violets, and even a touch of toffee still. Remains quite hard on the palate, with some firm, stony fruit, but very appealing nevertheless. Still has some hard tannins in the finish. Correct acidity. Should continue to improve over the next couple of years at least. 16.5/20

Rosemount Cabernet Sauvignon Show Reserve (Coonawarra, South Australia) 1997: Mature colour, a dark bricking red. Sweet, cedary spice on the nose, with some fading notes of fruit. Nice texture on entry, although a touch chalky. Soft tannins and acceptable acidity. Roasted fruit flavours, leather and cedar. A short finish. Pleasant drinking, but lacks interest. Drink over the next one to two years. 15.5/20

Wolf Blass President's Selection Cabernet Sauvignon (Barossa, South Australia) 1996: Obvious maturity on inspection - a tawny, deep red hue. Some complexity on the nose, with sweet roasted vegetables, and cooked plum and blackcurrant fruit. Full bodied, with an almost velvety texture, and fully integrated tannins. Soft, balanced, with the flavours of gently advancing maturity. Surprisingly forward for a 96, but very enjoyable nevertheless. Short finish. Drink up. 16/20

Château Reynella Cabernet Merlot (McLaren Vale, South Australia) 1996: Deep red-purple - not the vibrancy of youth, but no real maturity either. An impressive nose - packed with dark, sweet and smoky black fruits, currants and plums. Dense, tarry notes, but with elegant floral elements also. Sweet, rounded texture on the palate, but this sweet fruit is underpinned by a firm, tannic structure. Unbelievably there are still some notes of youth - coffee grounds for instance - alongside the intense, brawny fruit. Correct acidity for the style, which is opulent and creamy. Delicious now, but will improve for three to five years at least. 17+/20

Cape Mentelle Cabernet Merlot (Margaret River, WA) 1997: This wine shows some maturity, with light bricking of an otherwise garnet red hue. Roasted vegetable aromas, but still some red fruits in the background, also smoky liquorice. It has a fairly firm, rounded texture, and plenty of acidity. Deliciously sweet, roasted plum fruit, with a soft tannic backbone. Perhaps a little disjointed towards the finish. Drink up. 15.5/20

Redbank Winery Sally's Paddock Cabernet Sauvignon (Pyrenees, Victoria) 1997: Good depth of colour, cut through with a tinge of maturity. Sweet, roasted blackcurrant and blackberry fruit on the nose, with a slightly confected cough-candy edge, although this was not sufficient to cause any distraction. Elegant on entry, balanced and very fluid, although this leads into some dilution evident on the midpalate. It fattens up in the glass though, and develops a firm, appealing texture. Lovely extract, sweet yet spicy fruit, and correct acidity. Good length. This has really moved on from when I last tasted it in 2000, when it was just a bundle of summer fruits and toasty oak. Although there is a touch of tannin in the finish, I don't think this will make any major improvements. Drink up over the next year or two. 16/20