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Australia Day Tasting 2009 Part 1

January 26th 2009 saw the annual Australia Day tasting roadshow roll into Edinburgh, and it was certainly an impressive sight. Gathered under the roof of Dynamic Earth, a venue which lies adjacent to Scotland's parliament buildings, were dozens of producers, importers and merchants showing hundreds of wines from the length and breadth of this continent.

Australian WineHaving made such a statement, which perhaps suggests that there are vines stretching from one corner of this gigantic land mass to the other, it is probably worth taking a quick look at a map of Australia's vineyards to remind us that this is not so. Although the vineyards are numerous, and despite the fact that they touch all but one of the six mainland territories, they are nowhere near as extensive as might be expected. They are in fact confined to just two corners, the larger of the two being an intermittent swathe of vineyards running through the eastern territories of New South Wales, Victoria and the eastern part of South Australia. Western Australia boasts its own, rather less extensive vineyard, this being the second corner. Finally there are some increasingly important vineyards on Tasmania, which lies to the south of Victoria.

With such a huge array of wines available for tasting it was difficult knowing exactly where I should start; even with several hours to dedicate to the tasting, I knew I would only be able to scratch the surface. As it is some time since I have tasted or drank a reasonable quantity of Australian wine, however, I decided that a review of a few old favourites such as Pewsey Vale, Cullen, Peter Lehmann and Wynns would enlighten me as to how these wines have changed over the intervening years, prior to my tasting a few wines new to me, such as those from Tamar Ridge, Stella Bella and Suckfizzle. The wines represent many of Australia's best known regions, including the Clare and Eden Valleys in South Australia, both regarded as cooler climate regions, as well as Coonawarra, the Mornington Peninsula in Victoria, Margaret River in Western Australia and Tasmania. For convenience I have divided my notes up into two, and I start here with the white wines - see part two for the red wines. (3/2/09)

Australia Day Tasting 2009 - Tasting Notes

Tasted in January 2009. Click to locate stockists.

South Australia: Clare Valley

Jeffrey Grosset Springvale Watervale Riesling 2008: Gently sherbetty fruit on the nose here, with a minerally character to it as well. On the palate, light, fresh, gently composed. A soft entry, but a firmer midpalate and strong finish. Moderate concentration, and on the whole rather subdued. Good. 15.5+/20

Jeffrey Grosset Polish Hill Riesling 2008: This has a richer nose, with some creamy white fruits. Nicely mineral too, and overall a good character. A reserved, rather more taut style on the palate, with good depth on the midpalate. Not fleshy or soft, although it has good fruit. An attractive style. 16.5+/20

Knappstein Hand Picked Riesling 2008: A fairly reserved nose here, just showing some soft fruit. The palate is very attractive though, with quite a broad and mouthfilling style, and an appealingly bitter grip. It is overall rather soft and fleshy, and although it has nice acidity it is not highly linear or vigorous. Very easy to drink though. 16+/20

Knappstein Three 2008: This is a blend of Gewurztraminer, Riesling and Pinot Gris, equivalent to an Alsatian Edelzwicker blend I suppose. The nose is fresh and open, gently perfumed and sherbetty, whilst the palate is soft and fleshy, and there are lots of spicy Gewurztraminer characteristics, so I suspect this is the dominant variety. There are some points of definition, and there is plenty of interesting flavour too. An attractive wine. 15.5+/20

Petaluma Hanlin Hill Riesling 2008: This example treads a somewhat different path to many of the other young, sherbetty, minerally Rieslings on show here today. This has a rather perfumed nose, a touch soapy and feminine, with a chalky edge. Open and accessible on the palate, although with a similar mineral-soapstone character. It has a good midpalate presence though, even if it is rather soft at first. Good potential here I think. 15.5+/20

South Australia: Eden Valley

Pewsey Vale Gewurztraminer 2007: The nose here is surprisingly good; there is none of the blowsy character that marks (and spoils) many examples of this variety. Instead we have a clean, orange blossom and fruit-tinged nose, which seems very nicely composed. On the palate it is quite dry; there is some flesh to it, perhaps suggesting a little residual sugar, but it has a good peppery grip and underneath a supple style. This is a good, simple but nicely balanced wine. 16.5/20

Pewsey Vale Pinot Gris 2007: Very subtle fruit on the nose here, with a gentle pear and stone fruit character. It does suggest some nice substance, although on the palate it has a rather clean, well defined and fresh character with not so much concentration, especially in comparison with the Gewurztraminer. Good, slightly bitter pear fruit though. Another clean, simple but nicely presented wine. 16/20

Pewsey Vale Riesling 2008: Dry and powerful fruit here on the nose, with a suggestion of sweet and honeyed richness. Rather a golden, autumnal fruit style, so quite different to the two preceding wines. Ripe fruit, but good acids too, moderate concentration and a little touch of sherbet. A good wine, with a little touch of bitterness that I like, and a firm style overall. 16+/20

Pewsey Vale Prima Riesling 2007: Not such an expressive wine on the nose, although it does have some nice, lean, lemon-tinged fruit. Sherbet freshness, and an immediately flattering palate - there is a decent whack of residual sugar here. Less punchy than the other Pewsey Vale Rieslings, softer and rounder, and less focused on the finish. Nice though. 15.5+/20

Pewsey Vale The Contours Museum Release Riesling 2003: This has a lovely nose, obviously mature but remaining very fresh. A touch petrolly, but this is well integrated into the aroma profile alongside some rich fruit. Nicely composed on the palate, starting off lean and a touch sherbetty, although with a broader midpalate, richer and with a minerally-chalky-rock dust acidity. A good dry and firm finish. In truth the palate doesn't quite live up to the promise of the nose, but this is still very good overall. 17/20

Peter Lehmann Riesling 2008: This wine has good, clean uncomplicated fruit on the nose, and on the palate an appealing flesh, a nice style of fruit and a slightly mineral quality. Good, crisp, lemony flavours, with an appealing core of acidity complete the picture. Overall this is a good wine. 15.5+/20

South Australia: Coonawarra

Wynns Riesling 2005: A nice, quite sherbetty, minerally nose. Good fruit here, although it was served very cold so I am sure it has more to offer than this one taste can detect. Nicely structured, with supple fruit and a gentle minerality. An attractive style overall, with plenty of flavour and freshness. Just a note of caution here in my score though, because this sample was so cold. 16+?/20

Victoria: Mornington Peninsula

Stonier Chardonnay 2007: This has a lovely nose, with lemony fruit, although with a soft, round and ripe character. There is even a little golden edge to the fruit here. The palate has delicious fruit, ripe but refined and stylish with a lovely minerality, and a fresh character. A serious wine of some substance. 17/20

Stonier Reserve Chardonnay 2007: This has a really appealing character on the nose, with more evident oak here, although it is nicely composed. On the palate, the fruit is refined, slightly buttery and golden, with good substance. It is a big wine, but there is balance and restraint here. The oak works well as a part of the wine. This has really good potential. 17.5/20

Western Australia: Margaret River

Cullen Mangan Vineyard Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2007: A very restrained nose, gentle white fruits leading the way, with a fine minerality behind. The palate comes across just the same, although with a richer, more golden style of fruit, although it is very well defined. The midpalate has a huge amount of spice, and lots of depth. This is a good wine. 16.5+/20

Cullen Kevin John Chardonnay 2006: This wine has a fine, lemony, minerally nose which is certainly a very promising start. The palate doesn't disappoint; finely poised, fresh but with plenty of depth, with lots of lovely minerality. There is plenty of oak here too, although it is nicely covered by the fruit and that minerality provides an excellent counterpoint. Overall a firm, but also fine style. 17+/20

Stella Bella Sauvignon Blanc 2008: A very pungent and grassy style of Sauvignon here, green and fresh, a real wake-up-call for the olfactory organ. But then, on the palate which is braced for an onslaught of crisp and green fruit, it is in fact softer than expected, rounded, with lots of substance, firm grip and only moderate acidity. It has a fair style, but I would have liked a better definition. 15.5/20

Stella Bella Semillon Sauvignon Blanc 2008: Like the pure Sauvignon this has bright, fresh and green characteristics on the nose, just not quite as pungent. The palate is clean, with a gentler and attractive style, with good weight. I find it a touch sappy perhaps, and quite appealing, and overall I think I prefer the Sauvignon blend to the variety in isolation here. 16/20

Suckfizzle Sauvignon Blanc Semillon 2005: This has a really fine nose, showing concentrated fruit in a stylish and delineated style which brings the suggestion of creaminess, of depth, of concentration to the fore. The palate is fresh and flavoursome, and is surprisingly open and accessible and even a touch soft, with gentle acidity; after such impressively precise aromas on the nose I was expecting something tauter. Having said that, underneath there is grip, good substance and stylish flavour. 17.5+/20

Tasmania

Tamar Ridge Devil's Corner Sauvignon Blanc 2008: This has an attractive style on the nose, if rather simple, grassy and greengagey, with a lot of methylpyrazine character. Very vibrant, even a little minerality on the palate which I wasn't expecting, rather zippy character, packed with flavour and overall a pleasing example of the style. 16/20

Tamar Ridge Devil's Corner Riesling 2007: This wine has a very fresh, crisp and minerally nose. The palate is packed with fruit, has a very full style, with an attractive, crisp, well defined presence of flavour. There is a good backbone to it as well, and even a seam of minerality. An attractive wine. 16.5/20.

Tamar Ridge Kayena Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2008: This has a really appealing style on the nose, and in comparison to the Devil's Corner it has a more refined quality of fruit, with vibrant flavours. On the palate there is plenty of grip, a mineral character, and underneath plenty of punch. I find this wine to be very attractive indeed. 17/20

Tamar Ridge Kayena Vineyard Riesling 2006: This has a very correct nose, just a touch petrolly, but certainly very aromatic. Lots of style and substance here on the palate, with an appealing acid backbone. Underneath it all, a good grip and plenty of minerality too. Very good indeed. 17+/20