Home > Vintages and Regions > Loire > Loire Update: Alphonse Mellot
Alphonse Mellot Update, February 2009
Alphonse Mellot
This update relates to wines tasted in February 2009.
For more on this estate, including all my relevant tasting notes, see my Alphonse Mellot profile.
Driving back to our hotel from the second day of the Salon de Vins de Loire in early 2009, I and my companions, writers Jim Budd and Sarah Ahmed, and Tom King of London's RSJ restaurant, which specialises in the wines of the Loire, were reflecting on our high points of the day. For me it was undoubtedly Alphonse Mellot's red Sancerres; these were wines unlike any I had ever before tasted from this appellation. Rich, deeply coloured, but also fresh, incisive and characterful, true to both the variety in question but also the appellation, I found myself asking aloud "how can red Sancerre be this good?"
Frequent
tasting and drinking brings experience and develops your descriptive
and analytical abilities, but it can also have the sorry side effect of leaving
one's palate jaded. There comes a point when it seems as though you have seen -
or rather tasted - it all before. It is a rare cause for delight when a bottle
reminds you of those enthralling moments that came so much more frequently when
you were discovering wine for the first time. Make no mistake, the reds from
Alphonse Mellot had this effect; these are wines the taste of which I will never
forget.
Quality was equally high in the whites, with the 2007 incarnation of the Génération XIX my preferred wine in this line-up, but in truth there was great consistency and style across the range, and I could happily drink just about any of the wines described below. Only the 2008 La Demoiselle, with a fruit profile that strayed too far into the beany, vegetal spectrum for my palate, really gave any cause for concern. If these elements subside it will make fine drinking, if not, then buyer beware. I have left a question mark hanging over my score to reflect this. (1/9/09)
Alphonse Mellot, February 2009 - Tasting Notes
The wines below were tasted in Angers at the
Salon des Vins de Loire in
February 2009. All my notes on the wines of Alphonse Mellot, including those below, are collated under my
Alphonse Mellot profile. Click
to locate stockists.
Alphonse Mellot Sancerre La Moussière 2008: A good nose here, fresh,
with herby-sweetness and a good depth. A fine palate follows, well defined with
fresh flavours, and good grip through the midpalate; it has good acidity too.
Quite structured, and a wine of some substance. Very good. 16.5-17+/20
![]()
Alphonse Mellot Sancerre Génération XIX 2008: This cuvée has a very
generous expression on the nose, with good depth underneath a little superficial
creamy fruit. Obviously very young, and in fact rather awkward at present, the
wine nevertheless has a good and substantial texture to the midpalate. There is
quite some grip to the finish also. Very primary and angular at the moment, but
this should be very good indeed given time. 17-18+/20
![]()
Alphonse Mellot Sancerre Les Romains 2008: This has a precise and more
minerally nose, with a green and leafy character behind it. The palate is fresh,
defined, nicely broad though, with really good fruit and a bright structure.
Vibrant acidity underpins it all, providing much of this wine's brilliant
definition. A delicious wine with very good potential. 17.5-18/20
![]()
Alphonse Mellot Sancerre En Satellite 2008: An
expressive nose here on this cuvée, ripe with fairly rich, sweet fruit. Soft and
rounded on the palate, fairly rich and flattering as perhaps the nose suggested,
with a gentle acid core. Broad but slightly diffuse, but with lots of good
flavour. Nice style. 16-17+/20
![]()
Alphonse Mellot Sancerre La Demoiselle 2008: This has an impressive
nose, showing a little stone fruit, ripe and broad in character but also
precise. There are primary, green edges, of asparagus and grass. On the palate
it is full, slightly mealy, youthful and awkward; this has lots of worthy
components which need to integrate. Perhaps a touch beany on the palate, with
some green vegetal components too, but it is broad and it certainly has
substance. Parts of this wine suggest great potential, but other components
introduce an element of doubt. 16.5-17.5+?/20
![]()
Alphonse Mellot Sancerre Les Romains 2007: A quite pungent, attractive
nose of mineral fruit here; a rich character, with almost a touch of honey to
it, but it is the mineral elements that are most memorable. The palate is round,
quite soft, but with a good substance. There is much firmer structure in the
midpalate, where although nicely rounded there is a touch of power. An attractive wine. 17+/20
![]()
Alphonse Mellot Sancerre Génération XIX 2007: This has a very
impressive nose, a mineral pungency being the most admirable character; it is
better than I recall from my tasting nearly a year ago. There are some rich,
honeyed elements in the mix that weren't there before. The palate has a big,
rounded, impressive character, with minerally style. Broad and ever so slightly
soft-focus and softly textured, but nevertheless still an enormously attractive
wine which will make delightful drinking given time. 18+/20
![]()
Alphonse Mellot Sancerre Cuvée Edmond 2007: Wow! the nose here is very
fine; defined, fine-tuned Sauvignon fruit, restrained and yet with generous,
almost opulent suggestions. The palate possesses a very smoothly polished style,
again a little soft-focus but more delineated than the Génération XIX in this
vintage. The fruit flavour dominates the minerals here, leading into a slightly
mealy finish. For that reason I think on this tasting I prefer the Génération
XIX, but it is a closely-run race. 17.5+/20
![]()
Alphonse Mellot Sancerre Rouge La Demoiselle 2006: This has a very
pretty nose, with lovely ripe and fresh fruit. Some good density too, slightly
smoky, with notes of beetroot and coffee; this is impressive. The palate is
fine, fresh, well balanced, round and polished. At the core fine and ripe
tannins, with a good firm acidity too. Very pretty fruit, although a serious
character alongside, dense and broad too. A remarkable wine for the appellation. 17.5+/20
![]()
Alphonse Mellot Sancerre Rouge Les Grands Champs 2006: Slightly
brighter fruit on the nose here, smoky character, lifted and lively, and yet
also dense and concentrated. This is really stylish. Pure, balanced, beautifully
textured and really very composed and elegant. This is so well poised on the
palate, it is just superb; the structure is matched by an incredible panoply of
fruit, coffee-edged, oak-tinged, tense, balanced and harmonious. It just keeps
getting better. Excellent wine. 18+/20
![]()
Alphonse Mellot Sancerre Rouge Génération XIX 2006: The nose here is
really excellent; a touch less exuberant perhaps, more restrained, with coffee
again, and perhaps a hint of fine, elegant, dark chocolate. The fruit is
certainly less prominent here, replaced by more complex suggestions. The palate
is just beautiful, harmonious, with a very polished tannic backbone providing
an elgant grip, but laid on top is a fine, silky texture. This has a really
remarkable style which, to my surprise, tops the quality found in the Grands
Champs and Demoiselles which I did not imagine would be surpassed. A hugely impressive wine. 18.5+/20
![]()
