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Spain: Odd Bottles

A great country, with a fine history of producing long-lived reds. My knowledge is focused on Rioja, but in recent years there has been a vinous revolution in Spain, and I think I have probably failed to keep up with this; unfortunately, it's impossible be up-to-date on every region in the world. Click to locate stockists.

Albet i Noya Cava Brut NV: Macabeo, Parellada, Xarel-lo & Chardonnay from Penedés, specifically from the Can Vendrell de la Codinale vineyard. The wine has a lemon yellow colour, and a moderately sized bead. A solid nose, with aromas of white bread, herbs and white fruit. Some nice qualities on the palate, which has lovely, fresh acidity and some savoury white fruits. Pleasing weight, a touch of creaminess towards the finish. Nicely poised, very clean, and great fun. 16.5/20 (May 2003)

Cordoníu Cava 2006: A pale lemon-straw hue, with a plentiful bead of moderate-large bubbles. Appealingly fresh on the nose, with lemon and rosemary, and a chalky bite. Then a clean, acidic, fresh and crisp palate, with lots of mousse, a touch sherbetty, but a nice chalky-creamy paradox in the finish. Short, but really very drinkable. Good. 15.5/20 (April 2008)

Bodegas y Bebidas del Jalon Garnacha '15' 2000: The winemakers are clearly quite proud of the 15% alcohol that fermentation achieved in this wine, as they have included it in the name of the wine. It has a good colour, and a nose of sweet cherries and berries, with some tarry treacle toffee notes. My only gripe is that there are some slightly confected cola-like notes lurking in the background, but these are barely noticeable. The palate is dominated by the excessive alcohol, which seems less incongruous, although still obvious, after some air. It also serves to dry out and pucker the palate. There is some rustic cherry berry fruit, with some background smoky charcoal notes. A little tannic. 13.5/20 (February 2002)

Castell del Remei Gotim Bru 2003: Chosen with the thought it might be a crowd-pleaser, and indeed some did like it. To me this deeply coloured wine has an alcoholic, fruit-juicy, cherry-medicinal nose. A big, soft, blowsy impression on entry, with no appreciable acidity. Rounded, unfocused, but with a big tannic kick at the end reflecting the heat of the vintage. Sweet and rather confected overall. Not really my style of wine. Tasted in a backstreet bistro in Barcelona. 13/20 (October 2006)

Bodegas y Viñedos Contralto 'Calle Mayor' (Tierra de Castillo) 2007: A pure Cabernet Sauvignon, this has a very dark hue in the glass, clean but incredibly dense, almost opaque. Very slightly high-toned on the nose, crisp and crunchy cranberry fruit at first, later a little more hot and furry. Nice and crisply texture at the start, very crunchy in terms of texture, but with a bitter juniper berry character through the midpalate. Notes of leather and berries, supple but on the lean side, with a stalky and hard tannic structure showing through the fruit throughout. Overall it doesn't have the freshness I would like, on the nose or palate. But there are some good points here. 14/20 (February 2010)

Osborne Solaz (Tierra de Castilla) 2000: Plump, sweet, confect nose. Rather funky quality. Little notes of toast. Simple palate though, good red fruit flavour but no depth or texture. Decent acidity at least. For current drinking. 14/20 (June 2005)

Torres Viña Sol 2007: Bottled under screwcap. Again this is a very pale wine. I have to confess I anticipated little excitement here, so I was taken aback by the nose which possesses lemony fruit, herbs and some smoky, minerally, flinty aromas. I certainly don't recall such an interesting array from previous tastes. Aromatically this is really quite enticing, and if I were forced to liken it to another style with which I am more familiar it resembles a decent AC Chablis more than anything else. The palate is fresh, somewhat zippy, with some substance, a minerally backbone and nice weight. Clean, lively, textured, firm and tightly composed, this is impressive for what it is, and very enjoyable. 16.5/20 (October 2009)

Torres Viña Sol 2000: A very pale, almost colourless wine, made from one of Spain's indigenous varieties, Parellada. This wine's strength is in freshness and acidity, and this is reflected on the nose which has aromas of honeydew melon and crab apples, with just a hint of cinnamon and butter richness lurking in the background. The palate has an appealing integration of light, white fruit flavour with a spicy, peppery edge, fresh and clean acidity and a rounded texture. It finishes very cleanly. Perfect for shellfish or seafood. 15.5/20 (March 2002)

Torres Sangre de Toro 1996: A blend of Garnacha and Cariñena, this wine has an attractive mahogany tinge to its garnet hue. Initially the nose is all vanillin oak (six months in American casks) and the palate is angular and unimpressive. After an hour or two, however, the oak mellows, and there develops an attractive nose of smoky raspberry and blackberry fruits, with some grilled meats. The palate fleshes out, and takes on an almost creamy texture, with firm tannins and good balance. Nice berry fruits. Finishes well. 15.5/20 (June 2000)

Torres Coronas 1997: Predominantly Tempranillo with 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, American oak. Initially gives off cherry and blackberry fruit aromas, but then attractive liquorice and grilled meat aromas. It's quite light on the palate, with soft tannins and initially quite harsh acidity, which becomes more balanced with aeration. Cherries, liquorice and leather flavours. A pleasant sour, savoury note to the finish. Good for quaffing. 15/20 (August 2000)

Torres Mas La Plana Cabernet Sauvignon 1998: A firm, meaty nose, with a wealth of obvious black fruits. Big, sweet, tannic palate, juxtaposed with fine, glossy fruit. This has a delicious style. Lovely depth and concentration too, with fine grip and extract. Super fruit presence, plenty of substance. This has bags of potential. Needs five 3-5 years in the cellar at least. 18+/20 (June 2005)

Torres Moscatel Oro NV: A beautiful, golden-amber-orange hue, a little like freshly poured tea. Sweet marmalade on the nose, with golden syrup richness, nut and raisin aromas. A medium bodied palate, with plenty of residual sugar and a fat, opulent mouthfeel as a result. Seville oranges, with a medicinal edge and some notes of herbs complete the flavour profile. Surprisingly short length. 15/20 (April 2004)

Fuentes Finca El Puig 2001: Moderately deep colour, still youthful. Dark fruit, meaty, animal fur nose. Initially showing a lot of liquorice oak which fades with a little air. Big, full, not quite creamy palate, but rich with extract and texture. Firm grippy tannins. Quite primary and simple at present, but may pick up complexity with time. Grippy finish. Plenty of substance. Should improve over the next five years, and drink for five to eight years thereafter. 16+/20 (June 2005)

Atio Rias Baixas 2006: A pale and vibrant hue. Initially fresh and green capsicum fruit on the nose, and some little notes of richness. The palate is full, with plenty of pithy presence, a good grip, nice acidity, and a rather bitter pine kernel and spice character which persists through to the finish. Plenty of structure and bite here, but perhaps not the depth of character to match. There is a rather diffuse, hollow substance to it. Still, it is fresh, a touch grippy, and certainly makes for easy drinking on a warm evening. 15.5/20 (June 2008)

Lagar de Cervera Rias Baixas 2006: A pale yellow-green, a shimmering hue, crystal clear in appearance. The nose is delightfully pure and fresh, and although of a very harmonious character it is not to hard to see why some people suggest this grape, Albariño, and Sauvignon Blanc, better associated with the Loire Valley and New Zealand, may be related. It has an appealing, slightly weedy aroma, with yellow and green capsicum. Fresh, direct, well defined, tingly and peppery acidity on the palate, giving this a pure vivacity which I find attractive. There is a little seductive perfume too, which sets it apart from Sauvignon Blanc quite clearly, as well as a slightly stony, minerally edge. Overall very attractive, and illustrative of some of the wonderful wines produced in Spain that I have still never really discovered. 17/20 (February 2008)

Pazo Señorans Rias Baixas Albariño 2003: Shimmering, pale, lemon-green hue. A beautifully fresh nose; aromas of grass and yellow capsicum, with floral-herbal edge. Super, tingly acidity plainly apparent on entry. Medium weight, just a suggestion of creaminess developing through the midpalate, but still cut through by that sharp acidity. There is depth and concentration here, but freshness and balance too. Notes of quinine and white pepper. Long finish. Delightful. Drink now. 16.5/20 (October 2004)

Terras Gauda Abadía de San Campio Rías Baixas 2005: A very complex and detailed label. A rich colour in the glass, and a fresh, fruit-laden nose. One of the few white wines on the list that I was hopeful would be free of excessive oak, and it was; a good match with a variety of fish dishes therefore. More weight on the palate than I expected, but this is very welcome. Good flavour, with just sufficient acidity. Tasted at Sept Portes, Barcelona. 16.5/20 (October 2006)

Valduero Ribera del Duero Crianza 1995: A promisingly dark purple-red, this wine doesn't disappoint. Aromas of bramble fruit positively leap from the glass, with rich chocolate, tar and leather scents following on. Medium bodied, with a strong tannic backbone. More bramble and black fruits, oak and good acidity. Finishes sharply, leaving the mouth slightly puckered, with lovely length. Gorgeous stuff, with bags of potential. Hold for 1-2 years before retasting. 16.5+/20 (July 2000)

Artadi Rioja Orobio 2001: This is deliciously dark and handsome when poured, with fantastic high-toned aromas of blackberries, blueberries, smoking underbrush and roasted herbs. The palate doesn't disappoint - soft and supple on entry, maintaining an opulent presence through the midpalate. It's packed with bright, super-ripe flavours of black summer berries. Full of extract and fleshy texture, but with low acidity, so it has a very rich, enjoyable mouthfeel. Absolutely delicious. 16.5/20 (January 2004)

Bagordi Rioja 2001: A good, vibrant, garnet red hue with moderate intensity. The nose is stuffed with dark, smoky, brambly fruits, layered with oak. The palate has plenty of up-front chewy fruits, dominating the oak which resides in the background. Good concentration and a sweet, rounded texture. There's a seam of ripe but firm tannins which will integrate over the next one to two years should you wish to cellar this wine. Delicious now, but best with food. 16.5/20 (July 2003)

Berberana Rioja Gran Reserva 1990: A moderately dense garnet hue, with just some salmon pink-orange at the rim, otherwise no real sign of age. The spice of American oak leads the nose, followed by a mix of macerated blackberries, raspberries and bramble fruit. A little hollow on the forepalate, but the bramble fruits appear again, with some meaty tannins and plenty of acidity. Pleasant though spiritually unmoving Rioja. Has potential to develop. 15/20 (May 2001)

Berberana Rioja Gran Reserva 1975: A great colour, which although not very intense has a good tawny red hue with just a rim of orange. The nose has fruit with a stewed, leathery character, and a sweet, medicinal, cough-mixture edge. The palate is quite full and but disjointed, with slightly incongruous acidity and considerable oxidation. There's still a trace of soft tannins and some sweet, burnt fruit. Quite a length, although it features that disjointed, bitter acidity. 14/20 (August 2002)

Berberana Rioja Gran Reserva 1978: A soft but trouble-free cork. A lovely colour when decanted, a mahogany red hue fading to an orange-brick rim. Good berry fruit on the nose, with vanilla toffee scented oak, and ground coffee nuances. On the palate a layer of polished, vanilla oak sits over a thin vein of raspberry fruit, which is drying out. Tannins have just about all gone, but there remains good acidity. Really dries out on the finish. An interesting wine, but now well on its way downhill. Should have been drunk perhaps five years ago. 15/20 (November 2000)

Berberana Rioja 'Dragon' Tempranillo 1997: Two bottles opened, as the first had some awful cooked aromas and flavours. The second was an attractive red with a pink rim. Spicy oak, smoky fruit aromas, hints of fine leather. With only a few minutes airing develops some vegetal and earthy aromas. Medium bodied, with soft acidity and soft chalky tannins. Some oak and pleasant pruny/plummy fruit. Finishes without any surprises. Pleasant, excellent value for money from a basic Rioja. 15.5/20 (August 2000)

Luis Gurpegui Muga Rioja 'Primi' 2000: A nose full of summer berries and cherries, backed up with toasted vanilla oak is classic. On the palate, a full, warm and rounded body is backed up by chewy tannins and a great, meaty texture. Lovely fruit, and more of that toasted oak. Well balanced, delicious stuff. 16.5/20 (March 2002)

Bodegas Labastida Rioja 2001: Good colour, dark purple-red, what I expect of the 2001 vintage which has been a success for Rioja. Richly fruited on the nose, with blackberry and cherry fruit, and some polished oak. A similar impression on the palate. Ripe, soft tannins, decent acidity and a lick of creamy oak. Very drinkable, as a crianza from a top vintage should be. 16/20 (July 2003)

Bodegas Primicia Rioja 2001: Moderate intensity of colour. Strawberry fruit on the nose, with a darker side-note of slightly stewed fruits and charred oak. Medium bodied palate, light in texture but with somewhat tarry, chewy fruit and a dollop of oak. Fresh acidity. Somewhat rustic but pleasant drinking. Simpler and less impressive than the Labastida. 14.5/20 (July 2003)

Campo Viejo Reserva (Rioja) 1995: Fairly light ruby red, with a soft, woody nose. Subtle red fruit and a touch of volatile acidity. Lots more of this on the palate, together with a note of wet wood reminiscent of freshly beached driftwood. Deficient in fruit, soft tannins and a similar texture. Unimpressive. Tasted at La Tasca, Liverpool. 12/20 (March 2001)

Faustino V Rioja Reserva 1994: Deep red colour. The nose presents first delicious red and black fruits, but then a burst of intense liquorice, and later on more complex leather and spice. Good fruit, smooth, integrated tannins and vanillin oak. Some volatile acidity, bordering on excessive, threatens to mar this otherwise good wine. Overall very enjoyable. 15.5/20 (July 2000) Retaste: Initially blackberry fruit, with a whiff of volatile acidity, the nose soon settles and opens in the glass to reveal raspberry fruit with creamy oak and a touch of spice. Medium bodied palate, good fruit, tannins really softened up, just that slightly obtrusive acidity again. A disjointed, warming sensation from the alcohol on the finish suggests this is on the way downhill. Drink up. 14/20 (February 2001)

Marques de Grinon Rioja Coleccion Personal 1993: This wine, despite being a standard Rioja, sees 24 months in a mixture of French and American oak barrels. There is now a thin rim of pink-orange age at the rim, and the wonderful blackberry fruit that was present two years ago has faded, leaving a nose of spicy American oak, grilled meats, rubber and peppermint, with a whiff of volatile acidity. Medium bodied, with some summer fruits and grilled meats. Quite gentle acidity and soft, chewy tannins, which show a touch of astringency on the finish. 16/20 (June 2001)

Miguel Merino Rioja Reserva 1994: This was drunk with roast leg of lamb. There is still a very rich and deep colour here. A gorgeous nose, full of spices, flower petals, sweet black fruit but with a fresh, crisp appeal, and delightful little notes of orange peel. Deep and organically complex I think. Lovely flesh, rounded and stacked with sweet fruit, but this is well countered by plenty of developing secondary flavours, especially of roast meats. And there is also a bright structure, a fine vein of ripe tannins and mouth watering acidity. Deliciously firm finish and a good lingering quality. Really excellent. 18+/20 (June 2008)

Montecillo Rioja Viña Monty Gran Reserva 1991: A vibrant red-purple hue, this wine initially gives off aromas of macerated berry fruits and vanillin American oak. As the wine warms and aerates in the glass, the fruit becomes more prominent, and a little funky, and the oak develops more smoky, toasty aromas. The palate is dripping with crushed raspberries and toasty oak. Firm tannins and a medium body contribute towards a slightly rustic feel, but there is good acidity, and a pleasant length. A wine still on the way up, but drinking nicely now. 16.5/20 (October 2000)

La Rioja Alta Rioja Gran Reserva 904 1989: An attractive and lively red hue. Some tawniness to the rim of the wine. On the nose, vanillin oak married with subtle red fruit. With several hours aeration there was an evolution of aromas, with cigars, subtle leather and a nice liquorice element. Excellent body, and a strong showing of black and red fruits surprised me. Flavours of liquorice, some sweet oak, and a slightly creamy texture. Beautiful balance, and good length. A lovely wine, combining a pleasant weight with structure and complexity. 18/20 (July 2000) Retaste: Superb colour. A nose of intense berry fruits and some toasty oak, which develops nuances of chocolate, coffee, spice and leather with time. Excellent structure on the palate, with a firm backbone of tannin, good balance, and rich berry fruits. Seems less complex on the palate than my last tasting. Finishes with a flourish of fruit, and has some length. This is a lovely wine, which clearly has years ahead of it yet, and is still available on a few merchants shelves. Tasted at Don Pepe, Liverpool. 18.5/20 (November 2000) Retaste: A lovely, mature hue; a mahogany tinged red at the core, fading to a burnished orange at the rim. A little flourish of blackberry to start, before giving way to dried meat, roasted fruits, leather and a note of volatility, then stale coffee grounds (not a negative descriptor I might add) and delicious black olives, which also show on the palate. A silky, integrated texture, with leather and spice, fine structure and a little extract. Still a little tannin on the finish, but very ready now. Should drink well for at least five years. 18/20 (June 2004) Retaste: A mature colour. Spiced fruits and fine leather on the nose, interlaced with notes of tobacco, truffles, tar and sweet black treacle. Medium bodied, with a lovely round mouthfeel balanced by fresh acidity. It has a complete, rather fluid, elegant feel to the mid- and endpalate, with a creamy persistence on the finish, and it maintains the complexity found on the nose. Fully resolved tannins, drinking now. Lovely. 18.5/20 (November 2005)

La Rioja Alta Rioja Reserva Viña Ardanza 1994: This wine has a promising deep red colour, and this carries through onto the nose which has bags of blackberry and raspberry fruit, together with some oak derived vanilla, spice and leather aromas. Immediately apparent on the palate are the velvety tannins, supporting a delicious combination of blackberry fool through the midpalate and grilled, meaty sausages towards the finish. Very nicely balanced, but just spoiled a little by a drying, very slightly astringent finish, with a warming, alcoholic length. Nevertheless, another lovely wine from La Rioja Alta. 17/20 (July 2001)

La Rioja Alta Rioja Reserva Viña Ardanza 1993: A red, bricking wine. The nose has sweet, leathery blackberry and cherry fruits, vanillin oak, and the occasional whiff of volatile acidity. A velvety Riojan texture on the palate, with a good richness of berry and currant fruit and some fairly prominent old oak. It finishes with a note of curry spices. As with my recent tasting at Majestic, although an attractive wine I would recommend drinking up. 16/20 (December 2000)

Bodegas Ruconia Rioja Tubal 2001: Not a bodegas that I am familiar with, and chosen purely on the basis of the vintage. Good deep colour, and a hopeful nose of blackberry and creamy oak. No disappointment on the palate, which offers a lot of texture, fruit and an appealing structure underpinning it all. Very good, for current drinking or short term cellaring I think. Went really well with a confit of duck. Tasted at the Restaurant Agua in Barcelona. 16.5+/20 (October 2006)

Enate Tinto Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 1998: Moderate colour, which is beginning to show a little maturity, with a warm brick-red hue at the rim. The nose takes a couple of hours to really open out, to offer somewhat rustic fruit with a roasted/baked fruit aroma indicative of the hot climate, and reminiscent of the 1990 vintage in Bordeaux. Medium bodied, with an elegant rather than overdone texture. Quite firm with sufficient acidity and slightly woody tannins on the finish. Considerable value for money. 16/20 (October 2003)

Bodegas Pirineos Espiral Moristel Tempranillo Cabernet Sauvignon 1998: A blend of the indigenous Moristel with the imported Tempranillo and Cabernet, from Somontano's largest producer Pirineos, which was once the region's co-operative. A dark yet vibrant red-purple hue. The nose initially seems delicate, with rose-petal and juicy red fruit aromas. The palate is medium bodied, with deliciously soft tannins, but is spoiled by quite high acidity. Good fruit flavours - blueberries and blackberries. Finishes pleasantly, no length of note. 15/20 (July 2000)

Bodegas Felix Vina Albali Valdepeñas Tinto Reserva 1998: The latest vintage has a youthful, cherry red appearance. On the nose there is an array of aromas, through blackberry and raspberry fruit, smoke, chocolate and coffee. Obvious oak influence here. Medium bodied palate, a touch lean on entry, but fattens up on the midpalate to sow some brawny fruit and good extract. Nice lick of ripe, succulent tannins as well. Good strong finish, and even a little length. 15.5/20 (February 2004)

Bodegas Felix Solis Vina Albali Valdepeñas Gran Reserva 1997: A good depth of colour, showing surprising youth. High toned nose, vanillin oak. crushed blackberry fruit with smouldering embers, charcoal and mocha notes. Rich and quite vibrant with fresh acidity on the palate. Lots of texture through the midpalate. Low level ripe and supple tannins give a little structure. Decent length. Appealing and good value. Drink over the next five years. 16/20 (September 2004)

Bodegas Felix Solis Vina Albali Valdepeñas Tinto Reserva 1996: This wine still has a youthful, garnet red, although it is beginning to develop a tinge of the patina of age. Roasted, chocolate-edged plum fruits on the nose, with a sweet, smouldering hickory-charcoal scent reflecting a period of oak ageing. On the palate, this is further evidenced by a creamy, polyphenol influenced mouthfeel. Nicely rounded texture, good plummy, chocolatey fruit, with a cinnamon-spiced edge. There are some dry, slightly woody tannins which show on the finish. Drinking nicely now and over the next year or two. 15.5/20 (June 2003)

Bodegas Felix Solis Vina Albali Valdepeñas Gran Reserva 1993: Moderate colour. Nose of red berry fruits and vanillin oak. It seems less complex than the previous vintage. After 48 hours it has become quite rich on the nose, but has some volatile, polished oak still. Nicely textured palate with rich berry fruits. There is a sweet, raspberry note on the finish, and prominent acidity. Pleasant, although not a repeat buy like the 1991. 14.5/20 (February 2001)

Bodegas Felix Solis Vina Albali Valdepeñas Gran Reserva 1991: Dark ruby, moderate colour intensity. Slow to form oily legs. Initially there are red and black fruits on the nose, with attractive vanillin oak, and hints of spice and chocolate. The palate is soft and plump, with quite moderate tannins and balancing acidity. Fruity, nice oak, more chocolate nuances. Finishes well. Interesting drinking, at the fraction of the cost of an equivalent Rioja. 16.5/20 (June 2000) Retaste: Initially a touch of volatile acidity, but otherwise consistent. Chocolate, black and red berry nose, vanillin oak. Soft and moderately rich palate, with integrated tannins and correct acidity. 16/20 (March 2001)

Bodegas Sanchez Romate Palo Cortado NV: Recently discovered on a cellar clear-out. Great colour, with a little more depth than some other Palo Cortados I have tasted; perhaps the extra year or two in the cellar has influenced this? Good bake on the nose, earthy yet with finesse. And a decent palate, hinting at the sublime integration and elegance that this style can show. Good, firm flavour. Quite a bit of dirty sediment at the end of the bottle which caught me by surprise; decanting this wine would have been wise. Nevertheless, a real treat. 16/20 (June 2005)

Bodegas Toro Albalá Don PX Gran Reserva (Montilla-Moriles) 1972: As dark as the night, but with a treacle-brown rim. Glorious nose, very classic, full of treacle, axle grease, molasses, Demerara sugar, vegetal notes and iron. The palate is no less impressive, being full of creamy coffee, treacly richness and absolutely packed with flavour. A huge wine, richly coating the palate, with some decent acidity despite the massively rich mouthfeel. For PX fans only. Lovely. 18/20 (December 2004) Retaste: A treacle-dark hue, with a roasted brown rim. Thick and oily legs. It has that very characteristic PX character on the nose, which marks these wines whether they be Spanish, Australian or from anywhere else: a sort of oily, deeply organic and vegetal nut and axle grease aroma which is found in no other wine. Nice weighty entry, full and oily, peppery and full of treacle toffee, walnut and raisin character. These wines lack the acidic freshness to be considered truly great, but they are great fun and certainly pack a punch. 17.5/20 (June 2006)