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South West France: Odd Bottles

Despite this being one of France's oldest wine regions, it's one I have sometimes neglected. This is, however, no longer the case; I'm particularly fond of some of the sweet and dry Jurançons. I also include here wine from the 'lost appellations' that lie between the Languedoc and Bordeaux, such as Monbazillac and Gaillac. Click to locate stockists.

Château Bal-Ségur Gaillac Doux 2003: I don't know the varieties involved here, but good candidates include Mauzac, Ondenc and Len de l'El. This interesting wine has a deep orange-gold, burnished hue, with aromas of honey, marmalade and golden fruits most evident. The palate is full, fresh, gently creamy, with good acidity immediately apparent. Fine, gentle, balanced, floral and honey-tinged, this is certainly an attractive wine. 16+/20 (January 2010)

Clos Guirouilh Jurançon Moelleux 1999: A pale golden yellow wine, less intense than the most recent vintage of this which I have tried, which was the 1994! Vanilla, white fruits and pineapple on the nose. It achieves a good balance on the palate, with a rich, sweet texture tempered by appropriate acidity. Fresh, lemony fruit with a tropical edge. Excellent value for money. 16/20 (February 2003)

Clos Guirouilh Jurançon Moelleux 1994: A clear, pale golden colour tells nothing of the pleasure this wine has to offer. Pineapple nose, with a gentle, background streak of honey. A wonderfully balanced palate, cleanly textured, with bright, sparkling acidity. There is just a touch of honey to the pineapple and tropical fruit richness. A very nicely packaged wine, which provides a lengthy finish. 16.5/20 (July 2001)

Clos Guirouilh Jurançon Moelleux 1989: Obviously not Bordeaux, as Jurançon is in the south-west of France, but not really a ringer either. A touch of madeirisation on the nose. Pleasant texture and sweetness on entry but dries out from the midpalate onwards. Probably past its best. 13/20 (October 2003)

Château Jolys Jurançon Moelleux Cuvée Jean 2004: A good golden hue here, rich but not overly deep or intense. The nose carries a lot of exuberant character, with sweet, slightly candied pineapple fruit, fresh pears and apricots, notes of flower petals, vanilla and more. There is a depth and a slightly spicy, peppery character to the palate, as the wine fattens out on the midpalate, leading up to a finish which shows a soft texture, but carried underneath by freshness, acidity and grip. Good spicy Manseng character here, which gives a bite to the finish and even through onto the length. A nice style which gives a lot of pleasure although it is note the most polished or elegant. 17+/20 (April 2008)

Château La Fonrousse Monbazillac 2005: This is Monbazillac, a region to the east of Bordeaux which stakes its reputation on sweet, botrytised wines made from Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, akin to the more famous Sauternes and Barsac of Bordeaux. A pretty colour here, light and golden. The nose is promising, with orange blossom, orange and apricot fruit, and a fine, meaty botrytis element. The wine shows moderate concentration on entry, and this character is maintained through the midpalate, although somehwat tempered by bitter orange fruit flavors. A nicely styled wine, perhaps just lacking in concentration, and rather more notably midpalate defintion, which it would need to be more desirable. Still, a good wine indeed. 16/20 (January 2010)

Domaine Léonce Cuisset Saussignac 2002: A very pale, lemon-gold hue. Sweet tropical fruit with pineapple and melon, with a creamy oak-influenced nose. A huge, creamy-oily presence on the palate, with sweetness in spades, and tangerine and tinned fruit flavour. Low acidity emphasises the expansive richness, although it still has a pleasing, crystal dew-drop cleanliness to it. A little length, but over all lacks great interest. Drink now. 15/20 (September 2005)

Les Producteurs Reunis 'Les Trois Cailloux' Merlot Vieilles Vignes (VdP des Cotes de Dordogne) 2000: Lovely deep colour. Lots of blackcurrant fruit on the nose, and the same on the palate. Soft tannins and soft acidity. Simple, but quite drinkable. 13.5/20 (July 2003)

Domaine des Puts (VdP des Côtes de Gascogne) 1999: Tasted twice over the past month, with consistent notes. A pale yellow colour, with a fruity, zesty nose very suggestive of Sauvignon Blanc with a hint of something, such as Muscadelle or Semillon. Fruit laden palate, with good bright acidity. Pleasant quaffing stuff. 14.5/20 (February 2001)