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South Africa: Odd Bottles

Quality keeps climbing. I keep promising myself to explore further. I've really enjoyed some of the wines I've tasted at various trade tastings. Click to locate stockists.

Graham Beck Shiraz 1999: A deep and vibrant red-purple hue, this wine has a nose packed with smoke, chocolate, mulberry fruit and toasty oak. On the palate the chocolate sensation continues, with white pepper and a richly textured, deep, hedonistic layer of tarry, mulberry fruit. There is a presence of soft acidity, and some ripe, chewy and pleasurable tannins. Spicy American oak paves the way for a strong and spicy finish. 16.5/20 (July 2001) Label

Boekenhoutskloof Porcupine Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon 2002: Boekenhoutskloof is a boutique winery, and Porcupine Ridge is winemaker Marc Kent's second label. This Cabernet has moderate depth of earthy-red colour. A lovely nose, with mature, earthy blackcurrant fruit, with notes of cigar-box. The palate has good structure, with firm tannins that would carry this wine along in the cellar for a year or two, although it's perfectly drinkable now. Medium bodied with a firm, restrained texture, and correct acidity. An elegant style indeed. 16.5/20 (March 2004) Label

Fairview Pegleg Carignan 2002: From a patch of Carignan discovered while searching for old vine Pinotage. Carignan is little planted in South Africa. A dark, opaque, garnet-red wine. The nose is crammed full of interest, with meaty, brambly fruit at first, but later some more complex funky aromas. A big, full flavoured wine on the palate, with good grip. It easily copes with a judicious application of spicy oak. Plenty of tannin about, so although it's quite approachable now this will certainly benefit from a couple of years in the cellar. 16.5/20 (October 2003) Label

Flagstone Noon Gun 2007: Although I am sure the blend changes from year to year this cuvée appears to be based on Riesling, Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc with smaller proportions of Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Semillon. It is very pale although not quite water-clear. The nose is heavily perfumed, rather soapy even, talcy and leafy. This is very floral and feminine. The palate has a good structure, plump with fairly good acidity, with a little bitter, green grip. It has a nice, sappy quality I find appealing but I find the perfumed aromatics which follow through onto the palate to be over the top. I soon gave up drinking this. 13.5/20 (November 2007)

Klein Constantia Shiraz 1997: Good dark hue. Enticing nose of blackberries, liquorice, oak and spice. Palate is packed with blackberry fruit, but has fine tannins and elegant acidity. A lovely wine, punching way above its price band. 16.5/20 (July 2000) Retaste: Lovely deep colour. Nose of berry fruit, black pepper, toasty oak and even a hint of rubber. Superb balance on the palate, packed with fruit, moderate tannins and acidity. Sensational drinking for the outlay. If I knew for sure this was still available somewhere (it probably is) it would be a Winedoctor recommendation. 16.5/20 (December 2000)

Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 1991: From an almost squat, 50cl bottle. Quite a deep, mid-gold. Absolutely superb nose of rich apricots and peaches. On the palate beautiful structure: clean fresh acidity, an overall impression of a light, refreshing wine, without cloying. Flavours of fresh peaches with cream, right through onto the finish. This is really impressive. 18.5/20 (July 2000)

Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2000: This noteworthy wine has a deep, burnished golden colour. Delightfully expressive nose, full of candied fruit. There is welcome freshness on the palate, although it is also rich and deep with fruit. There is a little element of botrytis too it seems, with a good backbone of acidity beneath. This should age well I think. I have another in the cellar, so no doubt I will find out. 18+/20 (March 2007)

Paul Cluver Pinot Noir 1998: On opening, aromas of fine, bitter dark chocolate fill the air, rapidly followed by rich and ripe black cherry fruit, mushrooms and a seam of new oak once the wine hits the glass. A well structured wine, with firm tannins and nicely balanced acidity. These provide the backbone for a full bodied palate, with more fine chocolate, black cherry fruit and a sensible amount of new oak flavours. A strong finish with savoury overtones, and appealing length. Very good, and drinking well now, although clearly capable of developing over 2-3 years. 16.5/20 (May 2001) Label

Paul Cluver Weisser Riesling Noble Late Harvest 2003: Deep, golden hue, and a captivating nose. The apricot and honey of botrytis, with candied fruit. Real depth and complexity here. Beautiful feel on the palate, rich and coating, but with decent acidity although it pales a little in the presence of so much sensuous texture. Explosive flavours, of pineapple and quince, tangerine and apricot, apples and pastry - this would match beautifully with a tarte tatin. Firm finish, and great length. Really impressive stuff. 18/20 (January 2005)

Chateau Laborie 1996: Quite a dense colour. Sweet jammy fruit on the nose, a melding of smoking oak and blackcurrants. This wine didn't fool anybody - it is clearly New World rather than Bordeaux. Sweet, rounded palate. Some structure. Good wine but seems a touch simple in this company. 14.5/20 (October 2003)

Springfield Estate Whole Berry Cabernet Sauvignon 2002: A fresh red-purple hue. On the nose, notes of sweetly macerated and smoky fruit, with elements of tobacco and applemint in the background. Cool and refreshing on the palate, with a stalky tannic structure. Rather crunchy Cabernet fruit, with tobacco and green pepper character, and rather bright, quite pervasive acidity. A little under-ripe I think. There's a flourish of those stalky tannins on the finish. Rather green in style, but it has some refreshment appeal. Might improve with short-term bottle age. Good. 15.5/20 (June 2006)

Slanghoek Noble Late Harvest 2002: Deep, opulent orange hue. A nose of caramel, pastry, spiced oranges and apples. There is certainly some botrytis here, both colour and nose confirming this. The palate has quite a savoury structure to it, with firm acidity cutting through the mouthfeel. But there is plenty of flavour too, of burnt toast, stewed apples, caramel and honey. Takes on a greater sweet intensity with time in the glass, and has a good length. More reminiscent of Tokaji than anything else. Just scrapes very good. 16.5/20 (January 2005)

Boschendal Sauvignon Blanc 2002: A lovely citrus nose of lime and buttercream. The palate is clean, lively yet almost creamy, but backed up by plenty of fresh, zippy acidity. A really nice mouthfeel here, especially on the endpalate. 15.5/20 (April 2004)

Clos Malverne Basket Pressed Pinotage 1998: This wine has an intense, dark colour. The nose is very forward, with lots of crushed summer fruits and squashed plums. The palate has a smooth, firm, yet subtle tannic backbone. Correct acidity, combined with oodles of fruit and some Pinotage spiciness make this a delight to drink. 16/20 (August 2000) Label

Neil Ellis Cabernet Sauvignon 1998: A promising red-purple colour when poured into the glass is just the first sign of style from this impressive and classy wine. The wine needs a couple of hours of aeration in decanter or glass to really show its stuff, but the style then becomes apparent on the nose. There is a stony, mineral, flinty quality to the blackcurrant fruit, with a smoky, cedary streak. Very fresh and elegantly textured on entry, and the fruit maintains that mineral and stony edge. Lovely tannins and balanced acidity give structure and appeal. The tannins show a dry and spicy side on the finish. This has real style, and although drinking well now with aeration, it would also cellar well for a few years. 16.5/20 (December 2001) Label

Ken Forrester Petit Chenin 2004: Very pale hue. Rather floral on the nose, with a chalky-mineral element. Pleasingly fresh palate, medium weight, touch of rounded sweetness but lacks concentration of the floral-mineral-candied white fruit flavours. Firm alcohol. Fans out a little on the endpalate to give a hint of nuts. Short finish. Good for the asking price which is probably about £4. Drink now. 14.5/20 (April 2004)

Kumala Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 1998: A lovely dark red-purple colour, the nose here is led by typical Cabernet blackcurrant aromas, but with suggestions of complexities (like the 1997) of old wooden cabinets and pencil lead. The palate has more upfront fruit, a medium to full bodied texture, firm yet elegant and integrated tannins, and balanced acidity. Full of fruit, yet elegant. Retaste: No real development in colour here, this wine still having a youthful, purple hue. A touch of volatile acidity at first, although this soon blows off. The fruit has taken on a stewed blackcurrant and black cherry character, with some tobacco notes. A similar character on the palate, which is enjoyable, with good acidity and soft tannins keeping the wine structured. More mellow and rounded since last tasted. 15/20 (February 2002)

Kumala Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 1997: Deep ruby colour. Initially restrained blackcurrant fruit with hints of polished wood. With time in the glass more complexity develops, with smoky cigar aromas. The palate is medium bodied and has elegance rather than power. Light blackcurrant fruit, soft tannins and pleasant balancing acidity. Nice wine. 15/20 (June 2000)

Pinnacle Chenin Blanc 1998: A pale yellow-green in the glass. The nose has crunchy Granny Smith aromas, with herbaceous notes. Initially there was a whiff of acetone or varnish, but this quickly blew off. There is also subtle, buttery oak in the background, reflecting the barrel fermentation that this Chenin has undergone. On the palate there is a surprising weight with a creamy texture, backed up by reasonable acidity and well integrated oak. A very moreish, mouth-watering finish. 16.5/20 (June 2000) Label

Simonsig Chardonnay 1997: This is a true cellar-orphan, as I thought I drank this all up a couple of years ago, but I recently found this lonesome bottle. Good rich colour. Lots of buttery, very slightly mealy oak on the nose, with some pleasant banana and lemon Chardonnay fruit. A full palate, richly treated with smoky, mealy oak, although the fruit seems a little hollow through the midpalate, and their is a bitter disjointedness at the finish. Obviously on the way downhill. 14/20 (December 2001)

Villiera Inspiration Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch) 2006: A wine influenced by noble rot, according to the back label. It certainly has a very rich hue in the glass, a golden-orange glow. The nose however, is thankfully light and vibrant, redolent of fresh fruit salad, pears, peaches and apricot, coated in a layer of lively honey. It is surprisingly fresh and pure and vigorous, given the wines very rich hue. The palate is similarly lively, viscous and creamy, rich in flavour, and with a good undercurrent of spice and pepper. There isn't perhaps as much acidity as one would like, but it is there, and the wine still has plenty to offer despite that. A good length too. 16.5/20 (April 2008)

Yonder Hill Inanda 2001: This is a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet (Sauvignon and Franc) and Merlot. A good deep colour here. The nose opens up in the glass to give sweet plummy, chocolate fruits and a firm toasty edge, although it really needs a good four hours in a decanter to show its best. Firm, fleshy, opulence on the palate. This is lovely, rich supple stuff. Fresh, acidic backbone, delicious extract and sweet, ripe tannins. This all supports the crunchy blackcurrant and redcurrant fruit which resides amongst all the richness. Amazing quality at this price. 17.5/20 (December 2003) Label

Yonder Hill Merlot 2001: A glossy, red-black wine, fading to a red rim - there's no sign of age here. Initially on the nose it offers aromas typical for the cépage - plums and chocolate - backed up by some spicy oak. With extended exposure to air, however, this develops real class - dense, smoky black fruit mixed with rich, crumbly sugary fruitcake. Throughout it displays fine, ripe tannins, underpinning an opulent texture and a wealth of spicy black fruits. Finely balanced acidity. This is tremendous stuff - provided you decant for a decent length of time. Pomerol for a tenner, anybody? 17.5+/20. (November 2003) Label

Lammershoek Roulette Rouge 2003: Vibrant, youthful, purple-tinged hue. Packed with characterful aroma, which just bursts from the glass. Smouldering charcoal, liquorice, burnt animal fur, and a vein of sweet, black fruits make up the nose. A pleasing palate. Good weight, plentiful fruit, backed up by a very buoyant texture, with attractive extract. Just a little grip of tannin on the finish. This is lovely, and great value. Drink now. 16.5/20 (August 2005)

Spice Route Pinotage 1999: A fairly deep, red-black hue here, but not opaque. There's a wonderful aroma of perfumed bramble and berry fruit on the nose, but this is not a simple wine. There's a meaty, organic note there too, which provides plenty of interest. Nice attack on the palate, which enters with fruit, tannins and acidity fumbling together, but nicely balanced out overall. This has a dry, savoury, grippy edge, with a rich extract, which pleases immensely. Drink now or over the next year or two. 16.5/20 (December 2003) Label

Hamilton Russell Chardonnay 2003: Lovely nose, still strongly influenced by nutty oak, but certainly refined. Elegant style on the palate, with firm acidic structure and good grip. Medium to full bodied, quite finely balanced through to the firm finish. Decent fruit, although still with a sheen of oak. This has very good potential. 16/20 (November 2004)

Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir 2003: A moderate cherry red, with dark berries and oak, edged with chocolate. The palate shows a good presence of fruit, very firm in structure, and still very woody. A big, impressive, somewhat backward style which has potential but desperately needs further time in bottle. Leave for 3-5 years before broaching. Very good. 15.5+/20 (November 2004)

Hamilton Russell Ashbourne Pinotage 2001: Youthful red hue. A cheesy, meaty nose, with notes of confected fruit. Clean palate, quite mellow, but with that cheesy note again. Firm tannins. Grippy. Backward. Another that needs time, 3-4 years perhaps. But the intrinsic quality isn't here this time. 15/20 (November 2004)

Arniston Bay Chenin Blanc Chardonnay 1999: There is an appealing lime green tinge to this pale coloured wine. Good, fresh, citrus and tropical fruit, with a hint of buttery Chardonnay. Initially refreshing, with nice lemony acidity, I soon tired of the slightly unctuous feel generated by the high residual sugar. Not for me, although it would appeal to many. 13/20 (November 2000)

Charles Back Goats do Roam 2002: A play on Côtes du Rhône, of course, and as far as the wine is concerned the pun works. A lovely deep colour. A nose of smoke and smouldering charcoal, ripe blueberry and black cherry fruit, roasted meats and roasted herbs. On the palate, super ripe fruit with grip, medium body and ripe tannins. A touch of roasted meats alongside the fruit. Somewhat low acidity gives this wine a rich, easy to drink feel. Turbo-charged Côtes du Rhône? Could be. 16.5/20 (June 2003) Label

Kumala Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2000: This wine has a glossy purple hue that suggests good quality of fruit. The nose carries aromas of liquorice, vanilla, and ripe blackberries. Firm tannins provide a backbone for the plentiful fruit on the palate, but with an elegant, fresh texture. Low acidity makes this an ideal quaffing wine, despite the tannins. Gorgeous, and tremendous value. 16/20 (January 2001)