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Recently Tasted

Ten wines tasted in April 2008. Click to locate stockists.

Cordoníu Cava 2006: A pale lemon-straw hue, with a plentiful bead of moderate-large bubbles. Appealingly fresh on the nose, with lemon and rosemary, and a chalky bite. Then a clean, acidic, fresh and crisp palate, with lots of mousse, a touch sherbetty, but a nice chalky-creamy paradox in the finish. Short, but really very drinkable. Good. 15.5/20

Domaine des Baumard Crémant de Loire Carte Corail Brut NV: This has a really delicate pale pink hue, and a plentiful bead although it soon settles down. The nose is leafy and curranty, with crunchy cranberry, all presented in a very gentle style. Fresh, full and lively mousse, a very direct and vigorous style. Finely poised, with subtle leafy fruit flavour. Really very good, better integrated than last year, a touch fuller and more complete. 16.5/20

Langlois-Chateau Crémant de Loire Brut Rosé NV: Richly coloured, salmon-pink. Stony, redcurrant, strawberry and cream nose. A little herb and leaf, but subtle. Firm palate, lots of substance, firm and incisive mousse, lively acidity, but even a little grip through the finish. This has certainly fleshed out a little when compared with my tasting note from last year, as it has a much rounded, flashier feel to the palate, although still plenty of firm grip. Very enjoyable aperitif on a warm, Sunday afternoon. 16/20

Merkelbach Ürziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese 1998: Crystal clear, a very pale green-tinged gold. On the nose there is plenty of vibrant and rich fruit, sweet and slightly perfumed apples and limes, talcy minerals and strawberry leaf. Lots of lovely richness on the palate, but not the weight that you might expect from an auslese today. Nice acids, and a lovely gentle, supple, sappy, mealy fleshiness towards the finish. Some length to it to. A rich but gentle style which has a lot of appeal. 17/20

Chateau de Fieuzal Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 1994: Quite a few tartrate crystals at the bottom of the bottle, but this is not a concern. The nose is delightful and maturing, although interminably difficult to describe as always. It has none of the nuts and mushrooms previously noted, but good notes of limes, lemons and minerals, but this does little to describe the dense aroma. Dry honey, minerals, a lovely palate, very organic and evolved, still well defined though, and fresh with limey acidity, A burgeoning texture, weighty but dry and firm, with considerable grip. Lots of bite on the finish too. Fine definition, better than any of my previous bottles, and a lingering finish, Continues to drink well, I really must try and keep a bottle or two into old age, to see how they develop. 17/20

Audebert et Fils St Nicolas de Bourgueil 2005: This still has a very youthful, red-purple hue. Quite a vegetal character on the nose, notes of pepper and vegetable stock, and blackcurrant leaf. Beautifully cool style on entry, then grippy and slightly sour through the midpalate, before showing some more intense, sappy-sour fruit on the finish. A nice substance, middle weight, firmly textured, and plenty of acidity giving that appealing sourness to the flavour. Fairly short finish. Nice drinking though. Good. 15/20

Canaletto Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2005: Under screwcap. An attractive colour in the glass, that is for certain. The nose has aromas of dark and plump, brambly fruits, with notes of cherry and plum. The palate is attractive although rather straightforward in terms of flavour. There is a good seam of tannin running through the middle of it, which gives a very appealing substance and bite to it. There is a very faint trace of acetic acid to it, but not enough not have a significant negative impact. Moderate substance, a nice weight, although not particularly bright or vivacious acidity. In this respect it is a little deficient, but its light texture gives some freshness. Nice little notes, of bitter cherry, perhaps a very faint trace of leather. A short finish. This is good value wine - at the right price, of course - for current drinking. 15.5/20

Domaine des Rochelles Anjou-Villages Brissac 2005: A lovely, pure, rich and dusky hue. The nose carries some crunchy fruit, with notes of cherry skin and cherry stones, pepper and celery seed. A fine and bright character on the palate, firm, with quite dry tannins and a firm grip which builds through the midpalate and finish. A characterful wine, this makes for delicious drinking but also provides plenty to interest. Very good. 17/20

Chateau Jolys Jurançon Moelleux Cuvée Jean 2004: A good golden hue here, rich but not overly deep or intense. The nose carries a lot of exuberant character, with sweet, slightly candied pineapple fruit, fresh pears and apricots, notes of flower petals, vanilla and more. There is a depth and a slightly spicy, peppery character to the palate, as the wine fattens out on the midpalate, leading up to a finish which shows a soft texture, but carried underneath by freshness, acidity and grip. Good spicy Manseng character here, which gives a bite to the finish and even through onto the length. A nice style which gives a lot of pleasure although it is note the most polished or elegant of examples. 17+/20

Villiera Inspiration Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch, South Africa) 2006: A wine influenced by noble rot, according to the back label. It certainly has a very rich hue in the glass, a golden-orange glow. The nose however, is thankfully light and vibrant, redolent of fresh fruit salad, pears, peaches and apricot, coated in a layer of lively honey. It is surprisingly fresh and pure and vigorous, given the wines very rich hue. The palate is similarly lively, viscous and creamy, rich in flavour, and with a good undercurrent of spice and pepper. There isn't perhaps as much acidity as one would like, but it is there, and the wine still has plenty to offer despite that. A good length too. 16.5/20

Ten wines tasted in January 2008. Click to locate stockists.

Montana Chardonnay Pinot Noir Brut Reserve NV: The first appealing aspect of this wine is the unpretentious approach. No fancy cuvée name here; immediately we know it has Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (80% and 20% respectively, as it happens), it is brut in style, and if there is any chance of finding new world sparkling styles of quality and interested then it is with this approach. This is the inaugural vintage of this wine, which is sourced from Gisborne and Marlborough vineyards, and which undergoes primary fermentation followed by full malolactic, with secondary fermentation in bottle before transfer fill. Quite a rich, lemon-gold hue and with a plentiful, moderate sized bead. There is a creamy edge to the nose, which shows some tropical fruit. The mouthfeel is lovely, initiatilly crisp and fresh, but then broadening out through the midpalate to reveal slightly honeyed but still very fresh tropical fruit character, with a peppery, spritzy mousse laid over the top. On the finish it shows some more crisp elements to its character, and it leaves a clean finish. Nicely balanced, actually. I think for the money this is very good value. 16/20

Piper Heidsieck Cuvée Brut NV: A short and rather peremptory note, as I tasted - or rather nursed over a period of an hour or two - a glass of the latest non-vintage from Piper at a recent Champagne reception with none other than Diana Rigg. She was charming, as you might imagine. This entry-level cuvée wasn't bad either. Nicely delineated, very straightforward and honest. Fresh on the palate, gentle in terms of mousse and acidity, nicely balanced, altogether very good, and there is value here too. 16.5/20

Dr Loosen Erdener Treppchen Kabinett 2005: Screwcap. Pale but vibrant. Plenty of fruit on the nose, lemons and citrus peel, sherbet, and a minerally, rocky vein too. The palate has a fresh, rocky and chalky character and a fairly crisp composition. It has the weighty richness of the vintage, a good tingling freshness provided by a vibrant sherbetty zip rather than superb acidity, but nevertheless I find this very enjoyable. Very good indeed. 16.5+/20 AP Nr. 2 576 162 01 06

Lagar de Cervera Rias Baixas 2006: A pale yellow-green, a shimmering hue, crystal clear in appearance. The nose is delightfully pure and fresh, and although of a very harmonious character it is not to hard to see why some people suggest this grape, Albariño, and Sauvignon Blanc, better associated with the Loire Valley and New Zealand, may be related. It has an appealing, slightly weedy aroma, with yellow and green capsicum. Fresh, direct, well defined, tingly and peppery acidity on the palate, giving this a pure vivacity which I find attractive. There is a little seductive perfume too, which sets it apart from Sauvignon Blanc quite clearly, as well as a slightly stony, minerally edge. Overall very attractive, and illustrative of some of the wonderful wines produced in Spain that I have still never really discovered. 17/20

Billaud-Simon Chablis Premier Cru Mont de Milieu 2002: It is strange to think that it has been a couple of years since I took another from this case, as it seems much more recent than that to me. There is a lovely creaminess on the nose now, if that is possible, with notes of white pepper and some bright and evolving aromatics. A fine depth has evolved on the palate, a slightly oily, resinous quality coming through, and a lovely broad texture. Bright yet fleshy, still with a firm structure and an acid backbone. Just a touch of honeycomb and caramel on the finish. This is developing very nicely, although it will be a few more years yet before it peaks. A higher score - it looks as though my first impressions were the closest! 17+/20

Chateau de St Cosme Gigondas 2000: A nice glossy hue, a dark core, and a deeply coloured cherry red rim. The nose is smoky and laden with cherry and summer berry fruits. On the nose it has a full texture, an elegant composition, plenty of extract and substance, and yet it is fresh and lively, with polished but peppery tannins giving a good grip to the finish. Blackberry fruit notes and woodspice flavours provide the pleasure. Just as good as I remember it, and drinking well now, although it has a little more in the bank yet I think. 17.5/20

Tempier Bandol Cuvée Classique 1999: Still showing a fabulously deep colour - the ability of Mourvèdre to resist oxidation and the pallor that comes with age never ceases to amaze me. The nose is feral and meaty, with a little high-toned volatility which blows off quite quickly leaving notes of roasted meats with a sweet, caramelised crust. Lovely substance on the palate, still showing quite firm tannins through the midpalate and finish, but with a better integration than I have noted before, so this wine seems to be coming together despite my concerns about the tannins previously expressed. There is still a little disjointed quality to it though, and a rather disparate waft of spirit. Still no hurry here, although I don't think I have any of these half bottles left. 16.5/20

Gaudrelle Vouvray Moelleux 2006: From a half bottle. This wine has a surprisingly pale hue, but this precedes a light and perfumed nose showing a lot of chalky character that is bordering on soapy. On the palate there is a nice acidity, which sits with a gentle weight and an unassuming, rounded presence. In totality it is light in style and consequence, but shows a rally of flavour and interest on the finish. It may have more to give with time in the cellar, but there are other wines which I would turn to before this one. Merely quite good. 14.5/20

Croft Unfiltered Late Bottled Vintage Port 2002: A good colour, deep red, rather dusky in appearance, and not particularly dense or opaque. The nose shows somewhat woody fruit, with a spirity character. On the palate a flattering sweetness, with a creamy but certainly not luscious presence, leading through to a rather firm finish showing some ripe but dry tannins. There is a rather simple brown sugar note to it, which is straightforward but not displeasing, and to be critical a slightly hot, alcoholic character. A little short on concentration of flavour. Nice if rather simple Port. 15/20

Graham's Quinta dos Malvedos Vintage Port 1984: It is quite a few years since I have touched one of these, and this is my last. A moderately deep hue, dark red and black, muted and matt, but not a hint of tawny to be seen. The nose is complex, with fleeting nuances of red apple skin, raspberry, toffee, together with a woody-figgy element although this blows off, leaving a body of pure fruit, cherries and black pepper. Overall the aromas are bright and open, and on the palate it is cool, elegant, textured but fresh. There are cherry and black fruit flavours, nicely integrated, firm but not spirity, underpinned by rather woody tannins although they are well covered by the rest of the wine. A gentle sweetness persists, although the finish is fairly short. But a very good wine, nevertheless. 17.5/20

Ten wines tasted in November 2007. Click to locate stockists:

Paolo Masi Bianchi Vergine Valdichiana 2005: An agglomerate cork. A clear hue, still showing a little residual carbon dioxide. There is a fruit-laden nose, with a fresh and grassy edge. Rather more full on the palate than I was expecting, nicely rounded out but with a bitter citrus streak. There is plenty of acidity and the carbon dioxide is tangible here also. Attractive and easy drinking, gently composed, soft but with freshness. Good. 15.5/20

Flagstone Noon Gun (Coastal Region) 2007: Although I am sure the blend changes from year to year this cuvée appears to be based on Riesling, Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc with smaller proportions of Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay and Semillon. It is very pale although not quite water-clear. The nose is heavily perfumed, rather soapy even, talcy and leafy. This is very floral and feminine. The palate has a good structure, plump with fairly good acidity, with a little bitter, green grip. It has a nice, sappy quality I find appealing but I find the perfumed aromatics which follow through onto the palate to be over the top. I soon gave up drinking this. 13.5/20

Bernard Baudry Chinon Les Grezeaux 2005: Another look at one of Bernard Baudry's wines from this vintage. A vibrant colour, and a nose of dark and gravelly fruit with a pure, minerally, sandy character. Cool, stylish, rich and textured, grippy and structured on the palate. This has wonderful quality, and yet does not even hint at Baudry's success in the vintage with other cuvées. It remains very fruit forward at present, and quite elegantly composed too. Very good indeed. 16-16.5+/20

Turner Road Reserve Merlot (California) 2005: Synthetic cork. This wine has a rather transparent hue, and a nose of canned strawberries, sweetness too I think, perhaps blueberries. The palate is smooth and rather featureless, fat, but with a burnt character. This last point is an interesting flavour at least. The finish though is bitter, in a harsh rather than interesting manner. It all seems a bit blobby and out of focus, but with a needly-nettly prickling sensation at the end which provides a real challenge. A wine such as this certainly shows the stupidity of any marking system that starts at half marks. 10/20

Chateau Beaumont (Haut-Médoc) 2002: A charming colour here, a nice depth at the core, and a vibrant raspberry-pink rim. The nose has a similar vivacity, with plenty of crunchy fruit apparent, with a fresh and crisp raspberry, blueberry and blueberry character, all with a leafy streak. These fruit flavours are backed up by a smoky, charcoaly, cedary quality which gives some pleasure. Attractive but light in character, not showing much in the way of structure, and this should make for pleasant drinking in the short-term. 15+/20

Langlois-Chateau Carmin Dry Vin Mousseaux de Qualité NV: There is a little volatile acidity which blows off at first, which I do not think I have noted previously. It has a great colour, so deep and covered with a thick layer of purple bubbles. It has a nose of blackberries, smoke and liquorice, and on the palate a wealth of deeply flavoured berry fruit. There is good, fresh acidity, and some considerable tannin at the end. A wonderful lingering flavour. This is really exceptional value for money, and great fun on a relaxing, unseasonably warm Saturday afternoon. 17/20

Sainsbury's (Lustau) Taste the Difference Dry Amontillado: I usually steer well clear of buyer's-own-label bottles, but it warms the soul to see the wines of such a great Sherry producer so widely available, and I couldn't resist. A golden brown core, fading to simply gold at the edge, with a very pale rim. The nose is very typical, rather high toned and volatile, but behind that there are nutty, woody aromas and a sun-baked, dry earth character. Nice, rather gentle weight on the palate at first, with a little more power and force through the midpalate as the firm (19%) alcohol kicks in. It is a little coarse here at first, but with time this fades and the palate becomes much warmer, softer and embracing. In any case, it softens again at the finish, and gently twists and turns giving a long, warm, nutty finish, although still with a firm prickle of alcohol underneath. 16.5/20

Sainsbury's (Lustau) Taste the Difference Dry Oloroso: Another wine from Lustau. A warm, dark, walnutty hue, fading out to a golden brown rim. The nose is rich and very expressive, with aromas of baked nuts with deep, earthy, cedary, smoky character. There are bright notes too, of citrus peel and bramble leaves. A very pure and well defined style on entry, cool and yet with a well rounded creaminess, leading into a midpalate that shows just a little more depth and firm, masculine structure than the Amontillado. It is very dry, rather reserved despite its vivid character, and with a deep, lingering, woody-nutty finish. Really impressive lingering finish. Altogether, very good indeed. 17/20

Warre's Traditional LBV Port 1992: A last bottle of this old favourite. It still has a very deep colour, an opaque core with a deep, red-black hue. The nose shows exotic Christmas spices, notes of scented sandalwood, dusky cherry, blackberry and raspberry fruit essence with a slight, spirity trace. It is a firm and quite serious wine, cool then creamy, nicely flavoured with balance, grip and freshness combined. There is quite a bit of power and grip at the finish, and overall this has a lot of firm substance. A good length, a touch hard here perhaps, but overall this is really very good indeed and it should continue to drink very well for some time - for those that have any left. 17.5/20

Graham's Quinta dos Malvedos Vintage Port 1996: A dark, concentrated, youthful red-black hue. There is a lovely nose, of smoky and creamy black fruits, blackberries and blueberries, with little notes of ash, juniper berries and bay leaf too. Pure, well defined and quite a direct style on the palate, rich and a touch creamy, with plenty of ripe fruit and extract. Good body and grip, a touch of fiery alcohol in the finish that I didn't note last time, but overall really good style, with an elegant depth and composition. Lovely. 17/20

Other odd bottle tasting notes: