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Provence: Odd Bottles

As is the case with Languedoc and Roussillon, I've enjoyed many wines from this region - not least when on holiday here. This is true for many of us, I imagine. Click to locate stockists.

Mas de Boudard Cassis 2003: Tasted in Provence. A rather neutral nose here. A concentrated, powerful palate though, showing some grippy, peppery structure and some appealing stone fruit and pine kernel character. There's a spritz of retained carbon dioxide which freshens up what is otherwise a very firm, muscular body. Good. 16/20 (August 2005)

Domaine La Dona Tigana Cassis 2002: Tasted in Provence. Good colour. Rather neutral nose, but if reveals some fruit with time. Good fresh palate, with plenty of firm grip. An crisp, apply edge to a wealth of rich, almost tropical fruit. Lovely structure and acidity, backing up a weighty style. Very good. 16.5/20 (August 2005)

Domaine de Torraccia Corse-Porto-Vecchio 'Oriu' Réserve 2000: The top cuvée, a blend of 80% Niellucciu and 20% Sciaccarellu. A nice depth of roasted-berry red, fading to a pink-orange at the rim. Not a densely hued wine. Intriguing nose, warm and spicy, with garrigue scents, or maquis as the scrub is known on the island, together with dusty, baked dark berry fruit. Very fresh palate, with good acidity, and medium body. Only moderate texture; overall a refreshing, cool mouthfeel, with just a little tannin staining the palate in the background. Spicy, herby fruit flavour. Short finish. Plenty of points for uniqueness and interest here. 15.5/20 (February 2005)

Château Vannières Bandol 1998: Wonderful purple-black hue from this young wine. The nose, full of blueberry and blackberry fruit seemed almost exuberant, but the wine was more typically Bandol on the palate. Although rich in fruit, there is a firm layer of ripe tannins that will take a good few years to come around yet. Sufficient but not prominent acidity. A good match for Welsh fillet and slightly pink duck. Tasted at Becher's Brook, Liverpool. 16/20 (August 2001)