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New Zealand: Odd Bottles

A beautiful country that makes some beautiful wine - and not just Sauvignon Blanc. Not only is some of the Chardonnay very good, but there has been a red revolution in recent years, led by Pinot Noir, but with Bordeaux blends playing a part as well. Click to locate stockists.

Montana Chardonnay Pinot Noir Brut Reserve NV: The first appealing aspect of this wine is the unpretentious approach. No fancy cuvée name here; immediately we know it has Chardonnay and Pinot Noir (80% and 20% respectively, as it happens), it is brut in style, and if there is any chance of finding new world sparkling styles of quality and interested then it is with this approach. This is the inaugural vintage of this wine, which is sourced from Gisborne and Marlborough vineyards, and which undergoes primary fermentation followed by full malolactic, with secondary fermentation in bottle before transfer fill. Quite a rich, lemon-gold hue and with a plentiful, moderate sized bead. There is a creamy edge to the nose, which shows some tropical fruit. The mouthfeel is lovely, initially crisp and fresh, but then broadening out through the midpalate to reveal slightly honeyed but still very fresh tropical fruit character, with a peppery, spritzy mousse laid over the top. On the finish it shows some more crisp elements to its character, and it leaves a clean finish. Nicely balanced, actually. I think for the money this is very good value. 16/20 (February 2008)

Cairnbrae 'The Stones' Sauvignon Blanc 2003: A pale colour. Absolutely classic NZ Sauvignon on the nose, which is very open and expressive. It's loaded with grassy aromas and tropical fruit, especially kiwi. There's also a little hint of richness, like buttercream. This leads to a full, rich, slightly creamy palate, with freshness maintained by delicious acidity. More rich kiwi fruit, but with an appealing sappy mouthfeel. Wonderful summer drinking - it's no wonder this wine took the Sauvignon Blanc Trophy in the Air New Zealand Wine Awards. 16/20 (June 2004)

Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc 1998: For a Sauvignon, this wine has a fairly rich lemon yellow colour. The nose has peachy tropical fruit and sherbet notes, with a hint of asparagus. Palate has good body, acceptable acidity, but seems over rich, with none of the sharp, grassy flavours you might expect. Not the classic profile of NZ Sauvignon, but this reflects the unusually warm vintage of 1998. 16/20 (June 2000)

Deutz Marlborough Cuvée Brut NV: Rich colour. Good citrus fruit on the nose, with biscuity notes. A rich and creamy mousse, that fades quickly. Fresh citrus acidity with a good, creamy texture. Finishes with a lingering note. 16/20 (August 2000)

Hunters Miru Miru Brut 1996: Mid-gold hue. The nose has a strong and attractive yeasty component. Palate is surprisingly subtle despite this, with soft fruit and background yeastiness. Good acidity. Very pleasant drinking. 16/20 (July 2000) Retaste: A good, mid-gold colour, with a coarse bead. On the nose, obvious yeastiness with fresh lemony acidity. Effervescent mousse, nice acidity, citrus flavours with some autolytic complexity. 16/20 (September 2000)

Isabel Estate Pinot Noir 1998: This has a fairly rich, ripe red-purple hue. The nose exhibits all the classic primary aromas of Pinot Noir, with chocolate, raspberries, strawberries and mushrooms all playing a part, as well as a seam of new oak. Medium bodied on the palate, and very well balanced. There is a good depth of fruit, with the grip of firm but integrated tannins and fine acidity. Alcohol is a touch prominent on the endpalate but otherwise this is not a problem. 16/20 (May 2001)

Isabel Estate Sauvignon Blanc 1999: This wine is a pale yellow-green. A classic grassy nose, with touches of lemon-lime acidity, and grapefruit. Refreshing acidity on the palate, good body, and pleasant white fruit flavours. Finishes very cleanly. Lovely stuff. 16.5/20 (July 2000)

Jackson Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2003: Bottled under screwcap. A pale hue tinged with green. Classic nose, with notes of grass, grapefruit and capsicum. The palate is full, with flavours matching those on the nose but with a little gooseberry too. Delicious, fresh, very green and grapefruity style with plenty of juicy acidity. It has a supple mouthfeel and balance too though. 15.5/20 (August 2004)

Lawsons Dry Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2000: Crisp grapefruit on the nose. The palate is very much in the same vein, with almost tart citrus acidity. Clean and refreshing, but very one-dimensional, dominated by grapefruit flavour. 14.5/20 (January 2002)

Lawsons Dry Hills Gewurztraminer 1999: An expressive nose, loaded with ripe lychees, orange peel and blossom, and some aromas of spice. It is rich and full of fruit on the palate, with a classic Gewurztraminer texture, with quite good balancing acidity. Some peppery spice notes. Strong finish and a surprisingly good length. 16.5/20 (October 2001)

Montana Sauvignon Blanc 1996: This was served by a friend - I don't recommend keeping many Sauvignons this long! Obvious Sauvignon nose, with a rich edge to the fruit. A faint note of apple-pie oxidation. Holding up well on the palate, with good flavours, but a touch disjointed on the finish. 16/20 (December 2002)

Montana Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2008: Fairly rich colour (for a Sauvignon). A pungent nose, certainly with plenty of varietal typicity, with methypyrazine pepper, grass and greengage character, backed up by a creamy richness. Quite creamy and rich on the palate, matching this impressive and characterful nose, but also with a vibrant, tingling acidity. This has an appealing style, but it is so forceful and vibrantly pungent it will only appeal to hardened fans of the New Zealand style I would think. Good but very varietally-driven wine. 16/20 (February 2010)

Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc 2000: Exuberant fruit on the nose reflecting the ripe vintage, leading into a full bodied and fruit-laden palate. Good balancing acidity. Straightforward but easy drinking. 15/20 (May 2001)

Vavasour The Reach Sauvignon Blanc 2007: Bottled under screwcap. It has a pale hue but a very lively nose, full of grass, white pepper, honeysuckle and even a little lime. There is full-on Marlborough-style Sauvignon on the palate, very bright and crisp, a touch gritty perhaps, with lots of methylpyrazine character, but a nice weight and freshness. Simple, one-dimensional, but structured, lively and it makes for good drinking. 15.5/20 (June 2008)

Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc 2007: This has a lovely nose, full of tropical fruit, gooseberries and grass, it is richly aromatic but not forceful or pungent. It has a fine texture, weighty and yet tightly knit, with fruit and substance. A richly composed substance follows, an elegant although slightly oily mouthfeel, with lots of impact. This has a profound flavour and presence if not complexity, and it even has a little length. Really very good indeed. 16.5/20 (June 2008)

Villa Maria Riesling 2000: A clear and shimmering pale gold colour. Richly fruited on the nose, with a medley of grapefruit, other citrus fruits and a touch of stone fruit. There's a touch of residual sugar, with just sufficient acidity. Plenty of flavour, and easy to drink. 16/20 (May 2003)

Coopers Creek Swamp Reserve Chardonnay 1996: A deep, golden colour. The nose carries aromas of sweet Lyle's Golden Syrup and orange marmalade, and strangely it gives off a suggestion of botrytis. Some buttery French oak. On the palate, there is insufficient acidity to match up to the rich, syrupy texture, with over-ripe melon flavours and more buttery oak. Seems unbalanced and a little disjointed. 13.5/20 (November 2000)

McDonald Winery Church Road Reserve Chardonnay 1996: My second tasting of this wine, and I was apprehensive as I judged it to be over-oaked and unbalanced last time. A rich golden hue in the glass. As expected, that spicy American oak is there, but also some powerful lemon and tropical fruit, and with time more vegetal notes develop. Stacks of fruit on the palate, with spicy oak, racy lemony acidity and an excellent weight. Finishes with clean, fresh acidity foremost. Certainly heavily oaked, but it worked quite well with the fruit and good acidity, and I enjoyed it (although I couldn't drink it every day). 15.5/20 (September 2000)

Corbans Private Bin Oaked Chardonnay 1996: A pleasant golden colour. On the nose, a good mixture of oak, tropical fruit, and lemon, hinting at good acidity. Well blended, although not perfect, oak, tropical fruits and mouth watering lemony acidity. Very drinkable, much less oak dominated than the Australians I opened this weekend. 15/20 (September 2000)