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Loire: Odd Bottles

The Loire Valley was the first wine region of France which I visited and tasted extensively (and I returned again recently), and as such it holds a special place in my heart. Click to locate stockists.

Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet Sèvre & Maine sur lie 2007: A synthetic closure here. A pale hue, but a bright and aromatic nose, with nuances of lemon and salt-rubbed thyme. Fresh and a little minerally I think. Well defined on entry, crisp, lean but fleshing out very nicely in the palate, brisk and bright, but also flavoursome and textured. Notes of greengage and yellow plum over the delicious acidity. Good clean, sappy and juicy finish. This is an appealing wine. 16/20

Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet Sèvre & Maine sur lie Clos des Briords 2007: A lovely nose, creamed thyme, liquid rocks, soapstone and pumice, topped off with notes of yellow pepper and yellow plum skin. Remarkable minerality! Fleshy but sappy, well defined, full of very tangible substance, broad and very mouth-filling, with all that yellow fruit coming through onto the palate too. Great style, purity and rich, fresh depth. Very fine indeed, delicious now, but a wine that will also repay keeping. 18+/20

Chateau du Breuil Anjou Blanc Clos du Frère Etienne 2007: Something of a coincidence encountering this wine, as we had driven past the Chateau du Breuil only a day or two before. A good presence of fruit on the nose, albeit with a peppery edge. Quite mineral on the palate, fresh and vibrant with lots of good acidity against a moderate weight of fruit. Lots of vigour and flesh. Straightforward but pleasing, so a good effort in light of the vintage. Touch of residual sugar lending some weight here I think. Tasted at the Brasserie du Théâtre in Angers. 15.5+/20 (February 2010)

Gratien & Meyer Saumur NV: A pale lemon-gold hue. A massively plentiful bead on inspection, and a bright, clean nose of apple and lemons. Vibrant acidity on the palate, firm and chalky, with a firm mousse. This is very typical of the appellation and delightfully unfussy to drink. Good. 16/20 (August 2007)

Gratien & Meyer Crémant de Loire NV: A pale lemon-gold hue, almost a non-existent bead, but a fresh and charming citrusy nose laden with chalky, mineral elements. A clean, dry and quite crisp palate, with refreshing apple-citrus character and just a bare hint of cream to the texture. Plenty of joyful mousse to fill the mouth. A nice style. 16+/20 (August 2007)

Gratien & Meyer Flamme d'Or Crémant de Loire NV: Current release. A 'golden flame' if the name is to be believed, but I am happy to write that this wine is much more typical of the Loire than that rich and exuberant title suggests. A blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir, the colour is pale, pale straw, and the bead plentiful, giving a bone-white head of bubbles. The nose is quite delightful, with elements of stone fruit, especially white peach and even mango. This carries through onto the palate, where there are notes of tangerine too. But what keeps it in the Loire is a dry texture, creamy minerality and fresh, vivacious acidity. There are even notes of vanilla, but reminiscent of a fresh seed pod more than anything effusively oaky. A very stylishly composed wine indeed. Drink now to get it at its best, I suspect.17.5+/20 (September 2009)

Chateau Montbenault Coteau du Layon Faye-d'Anjou Clos de la Herse 1989: A moderately deep colour here, and an appealing nose of honeyed oranges with apricot botrytis. Quite rounded with notes of orange creams and minerals on the finely styled palate. Lovely structure and an apparent extract and texture which gives much pleasure, through to the finish which gives amazing length. This is very good indeed. 17/20 (October 2006)

Eric Morgat Savennières L'Enclos 2004: A lemon gold hue. The nose is really entrancing, very open and harmonious, with aromas of straw, vanilla and lanolin, perhaps reflecting the oak in part, over a layer of golden fruits. The entry has a firm character, but it very quickly fans out to reveal an accessible, lively, vivacious and friendly weight of fruit, grippy vanilla tones and dried stone fruits, with a sweetly ripe but very dry nature. Soft, very slightly fat, but very well balanced, with well integrated acidity. So complete on the palate, deliciously ready to drink, with a real twist of grip on the finish. This is really an excellent example of the appellation. It may improve in bottle with time, but I think I would be tempted to just drink it now. 18+/20 (November 2008)

René Renou Coteaux du Layon Les Melleresses 2001: This is from a region with which I am very familiar indeed - the Coteaux du Layon - but from a famed producer. The late René Renou was president of the Institut National des Appellations d'Origine (INAO) until the time of his death, and as such was one of the most influential figures in French winemaking. Unfortunately the wine didn't live up to the reputation of the domaine. This wine has a lightly burnished orange-golden colour. The nose has some bitter orange fruit, with elements of lemon tart and pastry, with a sharp rather than rich character. An orange confit, marmalade-style follows on the palate, fresh but certainly very full and rich in terms of flavor, and yet the texture seems lean rather than fleshy. I think it lacks the substance of the appellation, and it has a short finish. Merely decent. 15/20 (January 2010)

Chateau de Targé Saumur Champigny 2005: This wine has a deep raspberry-purple hue that suggests concentration and ripeness, and there is a hefty, heart-warming pile of sediment left in the bottle at the end. The nose is a little melange of Cabernet Franc delightfulness, showing plum skins and cherries, smoke and little traces of green peppercorn and mint, but in no way does this enter the herbaceous unripeness of some wines. There are fleeting nuances of perfume too, violets and roses. Fresh, defined, loaded with juicy, stony, minerally, sweet and sour fruit on entry, showing a nicely rounded, bright and finely tuned substance through the midpalate, backed up by a deeper seam of light extract. There are lots of plum characteristics, pepper, and a punchy finish. Delicious now, but it should drink very well for a good few years yet. Delicious. 17.5/20 (November 2008)

Ampelidae Le K (VdP de la Vienne) 2003: This 100% old vine, unfined and unfiltered Cabernet Sauvignon cuvée has a very dark, vibrantly ripe red-purple hue. It has fresh summer fruits on the nose, raspberry and blackberry, with a very crunchy edge. The palate has some crisp and welcoming fruit with a blackcurrant leaf character, with a reserved texture and soft, rounded edges. Very firm acidity which lends a very fresh, summery feel to the wine. There is a pleasing tannic backbone, which just shows through on the finish. I would drink this now for the crunchy fruit, although I think it would show some short-term improvement in bottle. 16.5/20 (May 2006) Label

Ampelidae PN 1328 (VdP de la Vienne) 2003: This cuvée is named after a particular plot of vines, rather than any esoteric clone of Pinot Noir, which was my first inclination. A fine, deep colour. Quite a captivating nose, first presenting a burst of raspberry and cherry fruit, but then a clear statement that there is more here than mere fruit. There are plenty of organic components to the bouquet, a real salty, minerally, seaweedy character which is fascinating, with an earthy note behind. Pleasingly structured on the palate, and attractive leanness with plenty of minerally character. Nice weight, and lots of savoury, organic extract. Decent acidity, and good grip on the finish. Interesting stuff. 17/20 (May 2006) Label

Audebert et Fils St Nicolas de Bourgueil 2005: This still has a very youthful, red-purple hue. Quite a vegetal character on the nose, notes of pepper and vegetable stock, and blackcurrant leaf. Beautifully cool style on entry, then grippy and slightly sour through the midpalate, before showing some more intense, sappy-sour fruit on the finish. A nice substance, middle weight, firmly textured, and plenty of acidity giving that appealing sourness to the flavour. Fairly short finish. Nice drinking though. Overall, good. 15/20 (April 2008)

Marc Brédif Vouvray 2001: A clear, shimmering pale yellow-green wine. The nose is fresh and exuberant, brimming with ripe citrus fruit, swirled with aromas of stones and smoke. Similarly fresh and vibrant on the palate. It has plenty of ripe, fleshy, pithy fruit, with a stony background matching the nose. Perfect summer drinking, but with a touch of style. Excellent value for money. 16.5/20 (August 2003) Label

Domaine de la Charrière Jasnières Sélection de Raisins Nobles 1996: A clean, lemon gold hue. A marvellously open and intensely aromatic nose, loaded with stony mineral character, notes of crushed rocks and perfumed citrus fruit. Fresh, clean and lithe on the palate, with more mineral and citrus character. Nuances of green herbs, a little botrytis-derived honey character and crisp, piercing acidity. Pretty delicate in style, but delightful flavour. Delicious. 17.5+/20 (November 2005)

Château Gaudrelle Vouvray Réserve Personelle 1996: A mid golden hue, and a delightful nose. Aromas of honeycomb and minerals, beneath an oatmeal and biscuit layer. Some oak influence also, as well as a heady, botrytis derived edge. The botrytis comes through on the palate, which has a great and typical texture, creamy but not luscious, with well balanced acidity. There are some buttery notes, and plenty of mineral interest. Great mouthfeel. 16.5/20 (February 2002)

Gaudrelle Vouvray Moelleux 2006: From a half bottle. This wine has a surprisingly pale hue, but this precedes a light and perfumed nose showing a lot of chalky character that is bordering on soapy. On the palate there is a nice acidity, which sits with a gentle weight and an unassuming, rounded presence. In totality it is light in style and consequence, but shows a rally of flavour and interest on the finish. It may have more to give with time in the cellar, but there are other wines which I would turn to before this one. Merely quite good. 14.5/20 (February 2008)

Denis Marchais Vouvray Moelleux 2003: A synthetic cork noted for this vintage. Fairly pale hue for this style of Vouvray. Good nose, quite honeyed and yet fresh. Nice weight on the palate, with acidity on the low side affording a rich, luscious mouthfeel. Ripe melon and pear fruit, drizzled in honey. Not really reminiscent of the great moelleux Vouvrays that are available, but good for the price. 14.5/20 (May 2005)

Denis Marchais Vouvray Moelleux 2002: A very pale hue, almost clear in fact. I expected something a little richer given the vintage. Plenty of fresh character on the nose though, which has pear and white peach fruit, over a stony, mineral layer, with a floral, acacia element as well. Medium sweet on the palate, and absolutely packed with ripe pear and stone fruit flavours, and a fair amount of acidity - enough to say this wine actually deserves a year or two in the cellar, and will probably drink well for more than a few more years after that. Good persistent length, with a creamy twist on the finish. 16+/20 (December 2003) Label

Denis Marchais Vouvray Moelleux 2001: An incredibly pale wine - just the slightest tinge of gold to an otherwise crystal clear hue. The nose is delightful, redolent of ripe stone fruit and freshly cut pear. and even a touch of ripe pineapple. The palate shows great typicity - superb acidity is apparent from the forepalate through to the finish. It underpins a lovely cushion of ripe, sweet white fruit. Pears, pears and more pears. A great texture also, and delicious length. Super stuff, and excellent value. 16/20 (December 2002)

Denis Marchais Vouvray Moelleux 1997: A pale, clear, lemon yellow colour. Clean and crisp on the nose, although it is packed with fresh pear and stone fruit. On the palate there is lovely weight, medium body and good sweetness. Beautifully fresh, creamy, honey, lanolin mineral, herb-edged pineapple flavours give some real pleasure. The acidity is just spine-tingling. Excellent value. 16+/20 (October 2002)

Clos de Nouys Vouvray Demi-Sec 2004: This wine has a pale straw colour, and the nose has a rather plump fruit feel to it, with aromas of juicy pears laced with a little herby note. Ripe and fleshy, rather rich palate, reflecting the presence of some residual sugar. Nicely balanced though, with peppery, rather subtle but sufficient acidity. A nice vinosity too, and although plump it has a dry, quinine-laced finish. Overall perhaps rather coarsely rustic, but this may settle with time in bottle. Drink now and in the short term. 16/20 (August 2006)

Domaine du Salvard Cheverny 2007: A Sauvignon Blanc-Chardonnay blend. This wine has a pale, quite clear hue. The nose is very typical of Sauvignon rather than Chardonnay, with the aromas of freshly cut asparagus with green and yellow capsicum. This very fresh style continues onto the palate although it also shows some immediate weight, with a nicely full and broad midpalate, with very gentle acidity at its core. The character remains very Sauvignon-dominated, although with a very sappy substance too (perhaps the Chardonnay helps here) as well as an attractively sour, mouth-watering quality to the fruit especially towards the finish. This is a good, characterful and very drinkable wine. 16/20 (October 2009)

Fournier Père et Fils Menetou-Salon Les Chanvrières 2004: This family of négociants own 56 hectares in the central appellations of Menetou-Salon, Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, but buy and sell wines from every corner of France. A pale golden hue in glass. Gorgeously smoky, flinty, gunpowdery aroma, very classic and certainly stylish and very typical of the central vineyards. Tasting blind I would have guessed Pouilly-Fumé for sure. Bright, fresh, with a combination of sharp but rich citrus fruit on the with an intense, minerally, gunpowdery element alongside on the palate. Savoury, crunchy, very terroir-orientated, this is very impressive indeed. Sappy and freshly acidic. Delicious, with well-balanced acidity and substance, and plenty of character. 16.5/20 (February 2010)

Château du Nozet Pouilly-Fumé 'de Ladoucette' 1998: Pale yellow-green. On the nose, lemony fruit with a steely, smoky edge characteristic of this appellation. The palate has crisp acidity, combined with a good body and weight. Lemony, citrus fruit flavours with, despite a fairly rich feel, a good steely streak. Finishes cleanly. 16.5+20 (November 2000)

Bernard Reverdy Sancerre Rosé 2008: From a 12-hectare estate established by Bernard Reverdy, this estate is now run by his son Noël with wife Claudine. Bottled under an agglomerate cork. A beautiful colour here, reminiscent of a peachy early morning sky. The nose has some good characteristics, crisp strawberry fruit with a very zippy, leafy element, touched with a little softening cream. It isn't the most exuberant of wines, but then it does have lightness and freshness on its side. A nice weight on entry, with good strawberry and peach-skin flavour at first, before thinning out somewhat through the midpalate where the acidity comes through, the wine missing some concentration here. That acidity is certainly fresh, which is admirable, but towards the ends it seems as though that is all there is, the flavours blunted, the texture present but with little to support it. Suddenly on the finish it all comes back, nettly, green but certainly fresh. This wine certainly has its good points. For current drinking. 15/20 (February 2010)