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Languedoc: Odd Bottles
One of my favourite wine regions (together with Roussillon and
Provence!) and one of the first I truly explored - although in those
days the Coteaux du Languedoc had hardly been created, and it was
co-operative Fitou that you were most likely to find on the shelves. Click
to locate stockists.
Domaine Grand Guilheim Fitou 2003: Only bottled two months ago. Dark, youthful hue, although not
opaque. There's a fresh, stony minerality on the nose, combined with some
appealing cherry fruit. Typical Fitou palate; rustic style, full style, slightly
plump, not showing great structure. Nevertheless has a nice presence on the
palate. Pleasing, and works well with some simple pasta. Should improve with
some time in bottle. 14+/20 (July 2005)
Les Producteurs du Mont Tauch Fitou L'Exception 2000: This
wine had a good colour, with a fairly obscure nose of
black cherry and black summer fuits. On the palate there
is a disappointing lack of character from entry through
the hollow midpalate. The tannins are dry and astringent,
and there is prominent acidity. Altogether this wine is a
pale shadow of the sumptuous and internationally styled
1998. May fill out with time, although I shan't hold my
breath. 13.5/20 (November 2001)
Les Producteurs du Mont Tauch Fitou L'Exception 1998: A dark but
vibrant purple hue, with numerous oily legs. The nose
carries raspberry and blackberry fruit, pepper and a big
dollop of oak. A mouth-filling chewy palate with oak,
blackberries and black pepper. Hugely tannic, with
correct acidity. Finishes with a flurry of fruit, but
those tannins leave your mouth puckered. Good stuff, a
typical medal winner (upfront, modern, oaky, bags of
fruit) and therefore not to everyone's taste. I enjoyed it.
16/20 (July 2000)
Caves du Sieur d'Arques Limoux 'Les Quatre Clochers' 2000:
This wine, from a Limoux co-operative, has a pale
golden colour which is a touch surprising considering its southerly origin. The
nose gives aromas of minerals and lemony fruit, with just a touch of exotic
fruits at the edge. The most remarkable feature of the palate is the finesse and
balance that this wine displays - it positively glides across the palate.
Elements of classic, lemon-edged stone fruits, with exotic nuances as on the
nose, a sensitive application of oak and good grip provide the pleasure. This
really is impressive stuff. 16.5/20 (January 2004) Label
Domaine Cazal-Viel St Chinian Cuvée des Fées 1999: The
Cuvée des Fées is 100% Syrah. A deeply coloured wine, with a rich nose, full of
smoky, slightly sweet and tarry bramble-blackberry fruit, with floral-herbal nuances. On the palate
it has sweet, blackberry-pie fruit and a rounded texture, yet this is cut
through by some slightly raw, savoury tannins. Good firm acidity too. This is a
wine with plenty of character which although approachable now will certainly
keep for a year or two. 16.5/20 (November 2003)
Label
Domaine Cazal-Viel Viognier (VdP d'Oc) 1999: Lots of sweet tropical fruit salad on the nose at first, but
with a little air this wine develops classic Viognier aromas of pine kernels and apricots, with a
subtle seam of lanolin and spicy, honeyed, buttery new oak. Lots of soft white fruits on the
palate, with more spice and honey, but with a sensible, if somewhat rich and
glycerine-like
texture. It has fairly low acidity, but carries it's 13% alcohol well - in fact it is barely
noticeable. There is just a hint of nutty oxidation in the background, but rather than
spoil the wine this adds a savoury complexity. This is good stuff, but compared to Condrieu at
four times the price it is also a bargain. 16/20 (August 2001)
Label
La Domeque Tête de Cuvée Vieilles Vignes Blanc (VdP d'Oc) 1998: An
unorthodox blend of Marsanne, Rousanne and Muscat. A
lovely nose of tropical fruits and pear drops (hint of
volatile acidity) is let down by a palate sadly lacking
in balancing acidity, leaving it feeling soft and flabby
in the mouth. The 'flat' and unremarkable flavour profile
doesn't live up to the nose. Not corked, just not very
well made. 12/20 (June 2000)
Les Producteurs du Mont Tauch L'If Merlot Carignan (VdP du Torgan) 1998: Quite
a dense purple colour when poured - this is no watery
co-operative wine. On the nose there is some dusty,
plummy fruit, and a hint of wild herbs. A pleasant body,
with soft tannins and acidity. Black plum fruit, that
herbaceous touch in the background again, becoming more
prominent on the finish. Easy drinking. 15/20 (May 2000)
Domaine de Terre de Bardet (VdP d'Oc) 2003: A good depth of colour here,
a rich red hue. Bittersweet macerated cherry fruit on the nose, and a nice,
midweight entry onto the palate. Has a good texture, with a little dusty extract
and some rather angular, chalky tannins. More of that baked-macerated cherry
fruit, with a cherry leaf edge. An underlying earthy character adds a little
interest, but otherwise quite straightforward. Good. 15/20 (January 2006)
Domaine de Terre de Bardet (VdP d'Oc) 2004: A vibrant red hue. Juicy fruit on the nose, with a plump, herby,
sweetly confected canned strawberry aroma which doesn't appeal to me.
It might indicate some maceration carbonique.
It shows a medium body, with a rather lean, hollow midpalate, lacking in
presence. It's also rather short on fruit compared to the nose which was laden
with it. Overall quite a muted character. Yields too high? Carignan influence? 12.5/20 (November
2005)
Thierry & Guy Utter Bastard Tete de Vendange Syrah (VdP d'Oc) 2000: A
dense looking purple wine. Sweet raspberry fruit on the nose, with some roasted
vegetable and herb notes, and a hint of confection. Medium bodied, with soft
round fruit on the palate, sweet and ripe, with pleasant tannins and decent
acidity. A bit too soft and sweet for me. 13.5/20 (November 2001)
Domaine Virginie Gallerie Tempranillo Syrah (VdP de l'Hérault) 2000:
An unconventional blend of
Tempranillo and Syrah, grapes more at home in Rioja and the Rhône
respectively. It has just a moderately dense, attractive
garnet-red hue. At first the nose offers aromas of ripe cherries,
with more rounded, berry and plum fruit appearing as the wine warms
up and aerates in the glass. There are also plenty of high-toast oak
aromas, which come through on the palate as well. It has a rustic
mouthfeel, although this is not a criticism - the firm, slightly
chewy tannins and strong acidity make this wine a good foil for a
wide variety of dishes. There's plenty of fruit as well, and a
surprising length for such an inexpensive bottle.
16/20 (March 2002)
Label
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