Home > Vintages and Regions > Other Fine Wines > Languedoc: Odd Bottles

Languedoc: Odd Bottles

One of my favourite wine regions (together with Roussillon and Provence!) and one of the first I truly explored - although in those days the Coteaux du Languedoc had hardly been created, and it was co-operative Fitou that you were most likely to find on the shelves. Click to locate stockists.

Domaine Grand Guilheim Fitou 2003: Only bottled two months ago. Dark, youthful hue, although not opaque. There's a fresh, stony minerality on the nose, combined with some appealing cherry fruit. Typical Fitou palate; rustic style, full style, slightly plump, not showing great structure. Nevertheless has a nice presence on the palate. Pleasing, and works well with some simple pasta. Should improve with some time in bottle. 14+/20 (July 2005)

Les Producteurs du Mont Tauch Fitou L'Exception 2000: This wine had a good colour, with a fairly obscure nose of black cherry and black summer fruits. On the palate there is a disappointing lack of character from entry through the hollow midpalate. The tannins are dry and astringent, and there is prominent acidity. Altogether this wine is a pale shadow of the sumptuous and internationally styled 1998. May fill out with time, although I shan't hold my breath. 13.5/20 (November 2001)

Les Producteurs du Mont Tauch Fitou L'Exception 1998: A dark but vibrant purple hue, with numerous oily legs. The nose carries raspberry and blackberry fruit, pepper and a big dollop of oak. A mouth-filling chewy palate with oak, blackberries and black pepper. Hugely tannic, with correct acidity. Finishes with a flurry of fruit, but those tannins leave your mouth puckered. Good stuff, a typical medal winner (upfront, modern, oaky, bags of fruit) and therefore not to everyone's taste. I enjoyed it. 16/20 (July 2000)

Sieur d'Arques Blanquette de Limoux Aimery La Bulle de Limoux Brut Méthode Traditionelle NV: The Blanquette appellation is older than that for Crémant, and as such it focuses on the more traditional Limoux grape, Mauzac. Under appellation regulations this variety must account for at least 90% of the blend, the remainder all Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc. This wine, from this well-known Limoux co-operative, has a pale lemon-gold hue. The nose has a very clean style, with a paper-like quality. The palate is fresh, crisp and of moderate weight. There is an appealing balance and a fresh, sappy, slightly sour presence of greengage fruit. It is a crisp and decent drink, but I honestly expected more. 15.5/20 (July 2009)

Sieur d'Arques Limoux Les Quatre Clochers 2000: This wine, from a Limoux co-operative, has a pale golden colour which is a touch surprising considering its southerly origin. The nose gives aromas of minerals and lemony fruit, with just a touch of exotic fruits at the edge. The most remarkable feature of the palate is the finesse and balance that this wine displays - it positively glides across the palate. Elements of classic, lemon-edged stone fruits, with exotic nuances as on the nose, a sensitive application of oak and good grip provide the pleasure. This really is impressive stuff. 16.5/20 (January 2004)

Sieur d'Arques Limoux Terroir de Vigne et de Truffe 2008: The Limoux terroir favours two local specialties these being the vine and the truffle and this wine, according to the Sieur d'Arques blurb, a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, apparently reflects this. In the glass, it still has a youthful blue-purple hue. The nose is soft, fruit-rich, with plump blackberry and blueberry fruit, layered with some liquorice, from the oak no doubt. A similarly creamy and rich texture on the palate, but structured, with some grip and tannin behind it, and good acidity. Rather straightforward and commercial in terms of fruit and structure, not complex, but nicely composed. There's even a little white chocolate sweetness. The latter part of bottle really tightened up though, and with time I became more enamoured with the wine. I suspect this wine would do well in the cellar, short term at least. 16+/20 (July 2009)

Château Blomac Minervois 2008: This cuvée is a blend of old-vine Syrah (50%), Carignan (30%) and Grenache (20%) with a combined average age of over 40 years. It comes from the vines of Château Blomac which are now the focus of a joint venture between Paul Sapin (a Beaujolais-based négociant) and winemaker Olivier Mandeville. The colour is fresh and dark, and the nose speaks of primary Syrah fruit, that dark sweetness which is so difficult to elucidate; my best yet inadequate effort is ripe fruit dusted with brown sugar. There is also a deeper and more grippy nature behind it, reminiscent of dark plum skin. Cool but dense and compact on the start of the palate, a mix of grippy tannins and a lightly creamy core, with gentle but sufficient acidity. This is nicely composed and has a lot of appealing life on the palate, rolling down into a nicely composed finish. All in all this is a nicely put together wine, with good substance, freshness and integration. May well be better with a couple of years of bottle age too as that Syrah-sweetness should settle down. 15.5+/20 (November 2010)

Domaine Saint-Louis Picpoul de Pinet 2008: A good clear hue, lightly golden-yellow. A delightfully aromatic nose, with golden fruits, crisp yellow plum, with a crystalline character. Good weight, fresh, vibrant, rich and full of that crystalline fruit in the middle. Good grip towards the finish, some substance here, but always vivacious and lively. Delicious stuff. 16.5/20 (December 2009)

Domaine Cazal-Viel St Chinian Cuvée des Fées 1999: The Cuvée des Fées is 100% Syrah. A deeply coloured wine, with a rich nose, full of smoky, slightly sweet and tarry bramble-blackberry fruit, with floral-herbal nuances. On the palate it has sweet, blackberry-pie fruit and a rounded texture, yet this is cut through by some slightly raw, savoury tannins. Good firm acidity too. This is a wine with plenty of character which although approachable now will certainly keep for a year or two. 16.5/20 (November 2003)

Domaine la Linquière Saint-Chinian Le Chant des Cigales 2006: The appellation regulations permit a broad-ranging blend for Saint-Chinian, so I have little information on this wine, other than - as the label declares - the élevage is in oak. The colour has good depth and richness, and there is plenty of character on the nose; the fruit is dark, fresh but ripe, laced with liquorice and smoke, perhaps barrel-related aromas. With nuances of burnt raspberry, white chocolate and charcoal, this is delicious. Sweet, rich, but gritty, dry and structured on the palate, smokily savoury, this is delicious stuff indeed. For the appellation and the price, excellent wine. 17/20 (December 2009)

Domaine Cazal-Viel Viognier (VdP d'Oc) 1999: Lots of sweet tropical fruit salad on the nose at first, but with a little air this wine develops classic Viognier aromas of pine kernels and apricots, with a subtle seam of lanolin and spicy, honeyed, buttery new oak. Lots of soft white fruits on the palate, with more spice and honey, but with a sensible, if somewhat rich and glycerine-like texture. It has fairly low acidity, but carries it's 13% alcohol well - in fact it is barely noticeable. There is just a hint of nutty oxidation in the background, but rather than spoil the wine this adds a savoury complexity. This is good stuff, but compared to Condrieu at four times the price it is also a bargain. 16/20 (August 2001)

La Domeque Tête de Cuvée Vieilles Vignes Blanc (VdP d'Oc) 1998: An unorthodox blend of Marsanne, Roussanne and Muscat. A lovely nose of tropical fruits and pear drops (hint of volatile acidity) is let down by a palate sadly lacking in balancing acidity, leaving it feeling soft and flabby in the mouth. The 'flat' and unremarkable flavour profile doesn't live up to the nose. Not corked, just not very well made. 12/20 (June 2000)

Les Producteurs du Mont Tauch L'If Merlot Carignan (VdP du Torgan) 1998: Quite a dense purple colour when poured - this is no watery co-operative wine. On the nose there is some dusty, plummy fruit, and a hint of wild herbs. A pleasant body, with soft tannins and acidity. Black plum fruit, that herbaceous touch in the background again, becoming more prominent on the finish. Easy drinking. 15/20 (May 2000)

Domaine de Terre de Bardet (VdP d'Oc) 2003: A good depth of colour here, a rich red hue. Bittersweet macerated cherry fruit on the nose, and a nice, midweight entry onto the palate. Has a good texture, with a little dusty extract and some rather angular, chalky tannins. More of that baked-macerated cherry fruit, with a cherry leaf edge. An underlying earthy character adds a little interest, but otherwise quite straightforward. Good. 15/20 (January 2006)

Domaine de Terre de Bardet (VdP d'Oc) 2004: A vibrant red hue. Juicy fruit on the nose, with a plump, herby, sweetly confected canned strawberry aroma which doesn't appeal to me. It might indicate some maceration carbonique. It shows a medium body, with a rather lean, hollow midpalate, lacking in presence. It's also rather short on fruit compared to the nose which was laden with it. Overall quite a muted character. Yields too high? Carignan influence? 12.5/20 (November 2005)

Thierry & Guy Utter Bastard Tête de Vendange Syrah (VdP d'Oc) 2000: A dense looking purple wine. Sweet raspberry fruit on the nose, with some roasted vegetable and herb notes, and a hint of confection. Medium bodied, with soft round fruit on the palate, sweet and ripe, with pleasant tannins and decent acidity. A bit too soft and sweet for me. 13.5/20 (November 2001)

Domaine Virginie Gallerie Tempranillo Syrah (VdP de l'Hérault) 2000: An unconventional blend of Tempranillo and Syrah, grapes more at home in Rioja and the Rhône respectively. It has just a moderately dense, attractive garnet-red hue. At first the nose offers aromas of ripe cherries, with more rounded, berry and plum fruit appearing as the wine warms up and aerates in the glass. There are also plenty of high-toast oak aromas, which come through on the palate as well. It has a rustic mouthfeel, although this is not a criticism - the firm, slightly chewy tannins and strong acidity make this wine a good foil for a wide variety of dishes. There's plenty of fruit as well, and a surprising length for such an inexpensive bottle. 16/20 (March 2002)