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Italy: Odd Bottles

Italy is home to a fascinating diversity of wines - no other country challenges France with such a brilliant array of indigenous grape varieties and wine styles. It's the classic styles - Chianti, Amarone and Barolo to name just three - that impress me most, but I am aware also of the vinous revolution in the south, particularly in Sicily. Click to locate stockists.

Azienda Agricola Bricco Rosso Dolcetto di Dogliani 2002: Rather pale colour here. Some simple red fruits on the nose. Very unimpressive on the palate; dilute and unbalanced. Astringent fruit. Very disappointing indeed. 11/20 (September 2003)

Poderi Colla Barolo Bussia Dardi la Rose 1997: A decent depth of colour with some maturity at the rim. Unsurprisingly at this age such a wine takes some time in the decanter or glass to open out. When it does it offers aromas of black cherry fruit, and after a good 48 hours in the decanter (not something I often do - but it was needed here) the wine offers up a little of the haunting tar and rose petal nuances that mark good Barolo. It has some good weight on the palate, and a pleasing, seamless integration of maturing, spicy fruit, rounded almost silky mouthfeel and correct acidity, but behind it all is a more than firm vein of tannins in the background. With food this wine works well now, although it illustrates how difficult it can be to get any pleasure out of young Barolo. It could really do with another five to eight years in the cellar to encourage complexity and let the tannins fade some more. 16+/20 (January 2004)

Duchessa Lia Brachetto d'Acqui NV: Alcohol 6.5%. A translucent cherry red, with a soft-pink foam. Cherry cough mixture on the nose, with a spiky and crisp edge, nettles or similar, over the sweet, oily fruit. A nice mousse in the mouth, a full, sweet and fleshy composition, with an attractive spiky edge to it in the middle. There is a nettle and sherbet lift here, but it is the soft sweetness that dominates. A fresh finish here, but ultimately I find this is straightforward and rather simple. 13.5/20 (July 2011)

Mascarello Dolcetto d'Alba Bricco 2001: A concentrated and still quite youthful colour when poured into the decanter. The nose is complex, with elements of tomato leaf, liquorice and fennel alongside some roasted plum. The palate has a fine texture with quite obvious extract, a welcome seam of defining tannin and rather firm acidity. Overall it is the most serious example of Dolcetto I have ever encountered. Rather austere if anything. Certainly very good, for drinking or short-term keeping. 16.5/20 (October 2006)

Michele Nicolello Barbaresco Reserva Speciale 1964: A good mahogany red colour. Some rancio on the nose suggesting that this wine really needs drinking, but also attractive macerated strawberries and a hint of black pepper. The palate is medium bodied, with a pleasant amount of integrated alcohol that builds towards the finish. Some nice spice and pepper notes to the flavour profile, barely evident tannins and a soft, almost silky texture. Good, peppery length. 16.5/20 (October 2000) Retaste: Bottle number 6734. Fragile cork. Obvious age here, with a wide orange-pink rim, and a mature pale red core. Good nose; meaty-leathery, oranges and spice. Moderate impact on the palate, still a little residual tannin. Firm, with refreshing acidity. Smoothly integrated, dignified, ageing well. Drying out a little though and does need drinking up. Unbelievable stamina at forty years of age; nobody present had an inkling as to the age of this wine. 16.5/20 (January 2005)

Terre del Barolo Barolo 1997: Moderate intensity of colour. Pleasant nose, with some rose petal elements together with leather-edged black cherry fruit. Smooth texture, integrated tannins, fair acidity. Nice flavours. Good bistro wine. Tasted at Something Special, Upton, Wirral. 14/20 (December 2002)

L'Arco Grave Cabernet Franc 1997: The 1996 vintage could be lovely, but suffered from marked bottle variation. This vintage has an appealing garnet colour, with herbaceous blackberry aromas. The palate is astringent, with black fruit, and has a lick of tannin. Medium bodied with high acidity, this wine needs food. Not a great wine, but makes an inexpensive accompaniment to some good pasta. 16/20 (July 2000)

Jermann Sauvignon Blanc (Collio) 2008: Tasted at the rather over-priced Il Valentino's in Rome. A rich colour for a Sauvignon Blanc. The nose is very expressive, rich and atypical for the variety; it is very aromatic, heady even, with elements of orange peel, lychees and other tropical fruit. The palate is broad and textured, ripe and expressive, with good fruit. Grippy and impressive. If I had tasted this blind I would have probably not have pinned it as a Sauvignon, although I can see elements of flavour and structure that connect it with more typical examples. Lovely with prawns, seafood risotto and skewered grilled salmon and tuna. 17/20 (March 2010)

Jermann Vinnaioli Pinot Grigio IGT (Venezia Giulia) 2010: This wine, perhaps unsurprisingly, has a rich and golden hue. And on the nose this plushness seems to continue, being heavily fruit-influenced, particularly tropical fruit salad with a good helping of cream, the major relief being some brighter citrus fruit elements also mixed in. The palate continues in the same vein. There is also a low-level minerality too though, but it is certainly the texture and fruit that dominates. Overall it seems quite lazy in its composition, with the acidity taking a back seat. Not the most vibrant wine but there are certainly some enticing flavours here. 15/20 (July 2011)

Frescobaldi Brut Millesimato 2002: A metodo classico wine made from Chardonnay and Pinot Nero. 'Millesimato' indicates two years presa sui lieviti (on the lees) before bottling, as opposed to no designation (minimum 17 months) and riserva (36 months). Showing a somewhat rich, copper-tinged hue, with a good bead. Good yeastiness on the nose, with lemon freshness. Fine palate, fresh, balanced, with good character. Nice weight and presence. Not a DOC I am familiar with and on this basis that's a shame. 16/20 (December 2005)

Canaletto Pinot Grigio Garganega 2001: A pale, green tinged hue. It offers little on the nose, other than hints of white fruits vaguely reminiscent of an Alsatian example of Pinot Gris. A similar impression on the palate, which has unbalanced acidity and a clumsy, slightly oily mouthfeel. Cheap but not so cheerful. Tasted at Fusion, Liverpool. 12/20 (June 2003)

Masi Campofiorin Ripasso 1999: A deeply coloured wine, dark red-purple. Rich with tarry fruits on the nose. Full bodied on the palate, with a big, mouth filling texture. Sufficient acidity. Although quite powerful, it also seemed fairly simple and lacked great character. Not at all a profound wine, but not difficult to drink. Tasted at The Lower Place, Liverpool. 14.5/20 (November 2002)

Mionetto Prosecco Treviso Legatura NV: Bottled with the traditional string legatura holding in the cork. Alcohol 11%. A surprisingly firm pressure behind the cork, although there is little evidence of any bead of note in this pale, pale wine, which displays just a faint tinge of green. Aromatically it is rather anodyne, showing steely-edged fruit but little else more enticing. The palate is refreshing all the same, showing some fatness from the residual sugar, and with some fruit here, marked by a bitter-pithy edge. This is well countered by the wine's gentle sweetness though. Short, rather moreish with its cleansing acidity, but otherwise straightforward. 14/20 (July 2011)

San Pietro di Feletto Prosecco de Valdobbiadene Superiore di Cartizze NV: This has a very pale appearance, almost water-clear, with a very subtle bead. The nose is nettly, gently floral, but ultimately rather soft and not hugely expressive by any stretch of the imagine. A lovely fresh effervescence on the palate gives some joy, lending a foamy edge to the white stone character in the mouth, nuanced with flavours of blackcurrant leaf. A slightly peppery style, but with a supple cream to it as well, and some bite in the finish. A worthwhile effort. 14.5/20 (July 2011)

Cantina di Soave Recioto di Soave 2007: This wine has an intense, sweet, golden-orange hue. The nose certainly has freshness and lift on its side, with a fresh and lemony vigour coming in very handy at counterbalancing all the sweet, bitter-tinged oranges, almonds and fresh vanilla pods. A good weight and sweetness on the palate, refreshing orange fruit, long and rather bitter which I find an appealing contrast against the residual. Attractive, but ultimately rather one-dimensionsal, but there are certainly structural elements here that I admire. 15/20 (July 2011)

Castello di Ama Chianti Classico 2007: A firm depth of colour to this wine. A remarkable nose, full of roasted game meats at first, followed up by notes of bitter cherry and black olive; together these aromas give it an enticing feel. The palate has a moderate texture and bags of character, with flavours that more than live up to its aromatic promise. Nevertheless the structrue is stern, with a firm backbone of acidity and rather a wealth of dry and sappy tannin. More focused on structure than flavour, although there's not necessarily anything wrong with that. In fact I think it is rather good. And it has length, too. 17/20 (July 2011)

Castiglion del Bosco Brunello di Montalcino 1999: Dark coloured core, with just a little paling and maturity at the rim. A moderately expressive nose, which gives off notes of currants, cloves and dusty tobacco, with some rather nervously high toned dark fruits. This high toned character, coupled with firm acidity and a wave of tannin, comes through onto the palate. Dark berry fruits, but overall the structure is most prominent at the moment. Needs 3-5 years to calm down, and should drink well for a similar time thereafter. Good potential. 16.5+/20 (July 2005)

Caiarossa (Toscana IGT) 2007: The blend this vintage is Cabernet Franc (25%), Merlot (25%), Sangiovese (16%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (14%). Small quantities of Petit Verdot (8%), Syrah (6%) and Alicante (7%) make up the balance. Dark and dense matt hue. The nose combines a lovely freshness, redolent of just-ripe red cherries and cranberries with the richer tones of oak, suggested by aromas of smoky-smouldering charcoal and caramel. A rich and polished texture on the palate, ripe and with sweet fruit, although with a heavy oak influence over the top, all spiky tannins and charcoaly caramel. The finish is filled to the brim with oaky grip. This needs a good few years in the cellar for this wine to fully integrate, but it holds promise, which I particularly find in the freshness of the underlying fruit. Good. 16.5/20 (January 2012)

Villa Cerna Chianti Classico 1998: A garnet-red hue, fading to a pink rim. Not a great intensity of colour. Agitation brings the fruit to the fore on the nose, with a macerated, slightly stewed character. Alongside there are gamy aromas, and a suggestion of dry, twiggy undergrowth, which gives it a Burgundian feel. There is obvious weight on entry, together with some good fruit. Strong acidity, with soft, woody, drying tannins. The overall mouthfeel is somewhat lean and reserved, although there is a rounded, slightly oily edge to the texture. Eventually I decided I enjoyed this wine. What more can I say? 15/20 (September 2002)

Conte Contini Bonacossi Capezzana Barco Reale di Carmignano 2000: A deep red-purple hue on inspection. On the nose it has an intense layer of crushed summer fruits, with some pleasing smoky-toasty oak. The palate has a slightly fat, well rounded texture and good weight, with plenty of fruit as the nose suggested. Then comes the surprise - a delicious, charred, bitter streak, and wonderful acidity, which provides a muscular structure for the body and fruit. A lovely package. 16.5/20 (September 2002)

Ducale Chianti Rufina 1997: Good colour, and an enticing nose of raspberries and blackberries. Nicely structured palate, with well balanced tannins, fruit and a streak of acidity. There are hints of complexities yet to come. 16.5/20 (May 2001)

Paolo Masi Bianco Vergine Valdichiana 2005: An agglomerate cork. A clear hue, still showing a little residual carbon dioxide. There is a fruit-laden nose, with a fresh and grassy edge. Rather more full on the palate than I was expecting, nicely rounded out but with a bitter citrus streak. There is plenty of acidity and the carbon dioxide is tangible here also. Attractive and easy drinking, gently composed, soft but with freshness. Good. 15.5/20 (November 2007)

Rocca di Montegrossi Chianti Classico 2002: Picked from a restaurant list after a very gentle argument with a colleague who wanted the riserva from another estate. This was a good choice; an up and coming estate of the region that will make waves soon. Nice deep colour. Pleasing aromatics, ripe black cherry fruit with a meaty complexity. Most impressive on the palate, showing a firm structure in good proportion with some reserved fruit. Very nicely composed, and very food friendly. Punching a little above its weight I feel. Drink over the next 2-4 years. An impressive 17+/20 (December 2005)

Rocca di Montegrossi Chianti Classico 2009: A fairly dense colour here, with a fresh and youthful tinge at the rim of the wine. Minerally fruit on the nose here which I find slightly surprising, very slightly gamey also. There are fruit skins too, with a rather warm and peppery character. Nevertheless it has good freshness on the palate, with an attractive sour-fruit acidity. Quite sappy, with a mouth-watering, lip-smacking finish. Appealing persistence here too, long and slightly sour. I think this is rather good. 15.5/20 (July 2011)

Volpaia Chianti Classico 1999: Deeply coloured, with a rich, garnet red hue. The nose has plenty of dark fruits with a slightly smoky sheen of wood, and hints of sweet roasted meats, but like many young wines it needs time in the glass to open up. It has a fruit dominated palate, with typical, strong acidity. Medium bodied and good structure, with firm, chalky tannins, which dry out the finish. 16.5/20 (October 2002)

Volpaia Balifico 1985: A red-tawny hue. There is good fruit, with a dominant note of toffee-caramel alongside it. There is a lushness to the fruit on the palate, although this is countermanded by a hard, inky edge. There are also some rocky, stony complexities, and an organic aroma, redolent of undergrowth or possibly compost. Spice on the finish. Somewhat lighter than the other wines tasted here, but not at all outclassed. A ringer in a Bordeaux 1985 blind tasting. 17/20 (September 2002)

Falesco Vitiano IGT 2000: A deep, purple-black wine. A delightful, rich nose, which hides nothing - aromas of blackberries on toast, liquorice and charcoal - there's obvious oak influence here. The palate is succulent and fleshy, but has the necessary structure. Firm yet ripe and supple tannins, and correct acidity. Absolutely packed with extract and flavour. A short display of tannins on the finish - this wine will cellar for up to five years. This is a strong contender for wine bargain of the year. 16.5/20 (February 2003)

Falesco Vitiano IGT 2002: Another vintage of this wine from Ricardo Coterella proves to be a success. Here we have a deeply coloured liquid, a red-black hue. The nose is open and exuberant, loaded with blackberry and blackcurrant fruit. There is a tarry richness to it, with notes of cloves alongside, and some polished oak too. The texture on the palate is full and voluptuous, nudging creamy in fact. It has balance though, with some ripe tannins and sufficient, although slightly low, acidity. Like the nose it is packed with intense, tarry fruit, with an explosive finish. Background notes of oak. Lovely now, but should be fine for drinking over the next year or two. 16.5/20 (April 2004)

Tenuta Vitalonga Terra di Confine IGT 2005: This wine, a blend of Montepulciano and Merlot, has a nice colour in the glass, dark but not inky. There follow some dark fruit aromatics on the nose, lightly dusty, gently perfumed with violets, with a sweet little character to it, with little nuances of spicy fruitcake no doubt attributable to the Merlot. This is all done in a very subtle and reserved style though, rather than providing any unwelcome sense of exuberance or largesse. Lean and sappy on entry, with plenty of cherry stone and plum skin fruit, rather akin to a Loire Cabernet if truth be told. Freshly acidic, with a firm but nicely defined seam of tannins at the wine's core, and overall a very reserved, light and tight style. This is an attractive wine which is drinking now, but which also may improve short-term in the cellar. 16+/20 (February 2010)

Terre Cortesi Rosso Conero Riserva 1995: After decanting off a light sediment, this wine has a deep inky-purple red, with numerous oily legs. On the nose there are sweet bramble fruits with some vanilla oak, and attractive, complex nuances of dark chocolate, tea, spices and beef stock. The tannins have softened since I last tried this, which was about a year ago. Good black fruit and balanced acidity. Toasty vanilla oak. Very enjoyable. 16/20 (October 2000) Retaste: Still a dark red-black colour. Great nose, with persistent dark fruit, but also beef extract, black olives, roasted tomatoes and blood. Rich and full bodied on entry, with the acidity cutting through. Black tarry fruit, and good structural, grippy tannins which are nicely integrated. Plenty of weight. The youthful vanilla and toast present two years ago has all but disappeared. This wine certainly had (this is the last of a six-pack) the potential to keep on going for another five years at least. 16.5+/20 (December 2002)

Terre Cortesi Moncaro Rosso Conero Riserva Vigneti del Parco 2001: Dark berry fruit on the nose of this richly coloured wine, with freshly ground roasted coffee from the oak, in a sweet, dark and characterful style. A little black olive too. On the palate it is soft, rich, extracted, showing more backbone in the middle, along with a good grip and rich, dark, summer-berry fruit. Plenty of charcoaly oak influence too. Rather dry tannic finish, despite the wealth of sweet and rather burnt fruit beneath. This is an interesting wine which may show more intrinsic character with time. 16+/20 (May 2009)

Canaletto Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2005: Under screwcap. An attractive colour in the glass, that is for certain. The nose has aromas of dark and plump, brambly fruits, with notes of cherry and plum. The palate is attractive although rather straightforward in terms of flavour. There is a good seam of tannin running through the middle of it, which gives a very appealing substance and bite to it. There is a very faint trace of acetic acid to it, but not enough not have a significant negative impact. Moderate substance, a nice weight, although not particularly bright or vivacious acidity. In this respect it is a little deficient, but its light texture gives some freshness. Nice little notes, of bitter cherry, perhaps a very faint trace of leather. A short finish. This is good value wine - at the right price, of course - for current drinking. 15.5/20 (April 2008)

MGM Madonna dei Miracoli Chiaro di Luna Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 1997: A fair amount of sediment left in the bottle, mainly tartrate crystals. Restrained on the nose, with subtle black cherry fruit and hints of toasted oak. Somewhat thin and watery on entry, with a hollow, slightly astringent midpalate. Some pleasant black cherry fruit again, with some green, drying tannins, but sufficient acidity. This served as an acceptable foil for a spicy pasta dish, but lacked depth on its own. 12/20 (October 2001)

MGM Madonna dei Miracoli Chiaro di Luna Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 1998: A good colour here. Quite an enticing nose of sour black fruits, cherries, a touch of dark chocolate and a streak of charred oak. Good and lean acidity on the palate, with a reasonable body of sour fruit. Marked astringency on the finish. A much more interesting wine than the 1997, but certainly not a great wine in its own right. 13.5/20 (October 2001)

MGM Mondo del Vino Tre Uve Ultima 2002: Synthetic cork. Good, dark, youthful hue. Black cherry nose, with a smoke and toffee oak presence. Really nice medium weight on the palate, which fits well with the juicy and acidic black and red fruits. Some drying tannins give a little grip which shows well at the end. A touch savoury and herby. Rather nice, sharp, dry finish which cries out for food. Drink over the next couple of years. 15.5/20 (October 2004)

MGM Mondo del Vino Tre Uve 1999: A dense, inky red-black colour. The nose is packed with exuberant and smoky bramble fruit, new oak, roasted herbs, coffee, and a mineral edge to the fruit. The palate is fresh and has plenty of youthful smoky, roasted herb fruit. There is a prominent streak of acidity, which sears through the fruit, and persists on the palate on the finish. Notes of cigar box and tobacco. Quite a nice texture, with a savoury edge which shows up on the finish. A great food wine. 16.5/20 (January 2002)

MGM Mondo del Vino Tre Uve Ultima 1999: This is very deeply coloured, an intense and glossy purple, almost black wine. The nose has plenty of blueberry and blackberry fruit, which seems almost Australian in character, but there are also delightful crispy, smoky bacon aromas and charred toasty oak. The palate has glorious upfront fruit and is just packed with flavour, with a lovely savoury feel and depth. It has strong, spicy, slightly chalky tannins giving a great structure. A mouthfilling weight and firm texture just add to the pleasure. 16.5/20 (February 2002)

MGM Mondo del Vino Tre Uve Ultima 1997: The colour is a surprisingly rich deep ruby-purple hue. New, vanillin oak on the nose. Red berry, sour cherry and blackberry aromas. Lovely. Classical Italian bouquet. Slight touch of volatile acidity. On the palate it is medium to full bodied, with good acidity - a good food wine. Quite thick but also pleasant tannins. Sour cherry flavours, a little volatility again, very good. Finish fruity, the sourness making it quite a mouth-watering wine. Some length. Very enjoyable. 16.5/20 (May 2000) Retaste: Deep and vibrant purple black. High toned volatile nose, grilled/barbecued meats, cherries and summer fruits. Extracted cherry fruit on the palate, firm but integrated tannins, rich in fruit but also in acidity. A powdery/chalky touch not noticed last time, and a sharp fruity finish. 16/20 (January 2001)

Terra Viva Bianco Terre di Chieti IGT 2001: A pale lemon-gold hue. Fresh pears, peach and citrus fruits on the nose. Medium bodied, with fresh acidity, and creamy-edged stone fruit, and an attractive mineral complexity. Nicely balanced, with a bitter twist on the finish, which is otherwise dry and clean. 15.5/20 (March 2003)

Di Majo Norante Biferno Rosso 'Ramitello' 2000: This blend of Montepulciano and Aglianico has a delightfully dark, red-purple hue. Piles of fruit on the nose, with very much a summer fruit profile, led by macerated raspberries and blackberries, then black cherry. Behind the fruit there lies a layer of oak, with a tarry, smoky, high quality leather feel to it. On entry there is an abundance of fruit, which takes on a spicy character through the midpalate; underpinning it all is a seam of acidity running right through the wine, and some tannins which demonstrate a bit of grip on the finish. Lovely drinking for now and over the next couple of years. 16.5/20 (April 2004)

Cantina Sociale Cooperativa Copertino Riserva 1994: I opened this one sooner rather than later, as the bottle I had last year was a bit tired. I needn't have worried. A good, red-purple hue, with just some bricking at the rim. Much more berry and cherry fruit on the nose than I recall from previous. Nicely textured palate, with soft tannins and good balance. Restrained rather than exuberant fruit. Clean finish. 15.5/20 (January 2001)

Casa Girelli Canaletto Primitivo 2000: A deep, youthful garnet red hue. The nose takes some time to open out to its full potential, but it is worth the wait, as it offers up multiple, complex aromas of dark, ripe fruits, with nuances of rubber and liquorice, which give way to more dominating aromas of smoke and charcoal. More than a match for the nose, the palate is similarly impressive. Plenty of body and extract, full bodied, with plenty of spice and blackberry fruit flavour. Just a moderate amount of grip, with approachable tannins cut through by some brilliant acidity, make this wine delicious to drink now. What a delight. 16.5/20 (May 2003)

A Mano Primitivo 2000: A lovely colour, with a red-purple hue. This is followed by a delightful nose, full of fresh cherry and berry fruit, accompanied by dense and dark aromas, of liquorice predominantly, but also some leather, spice and a touch of smoke. On the palate, a similar profile comes with a medium body, rounded texture with cherry and spice flavours. There are soft tannins and similar acidity. Despite the dispute about this wine (some respected wine writers have given quite pointed criticism) I found it to be very pleasant, and it certainly went down well with some guests. 16.5/20 (June 2002)

Kore Isola dei Noraghi IGT 1997: A moderate depth of colour, showing early maturity at the rim. Black olives and roasted berry fruit on the nose. The palate has supple yet firm, very masculine tannins. The texture is somewhat on the lean side, but the flavour profile certainly isn't; black olives, roasted meat, treacle toffee and burnt wood. Mouthfilling, but with a meaty, savoury richness rather than a fleshy texture. Certainly makes a change! In the end I decided I liked this - in fact it was delicious. 16.5/20 (June 2004)