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Germany: Odd Bottles

A country that produces a dazzling array of fine white wines - but you have to tread carefully, for there is still much rubbish about. Speak to a merchant that knows Germany if you wish to discover her treasures. Or follow my recommendations on the best producers. One note: I do try to keep a record of the AP Number but human fallibility means this is sometimes missing. Click to locate stockists:

Christoffel-Berres Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) 1993: A fairly rich (for the Mosel) yellow golden hue is the first sign that this wine has something to offer. A deliciously intense nose, full of fresh, zesty limes and dripping with rich, honeyed fruit. The palate has the weight to match this exuberant nose, yet with fine, integrated and balanced acidity. There is a slatey, steely edge to the palate, but it really plays second fiddle to the honeyed fruit flavours. It all rolls together into a lovely finish, with some length. Excellent. AP Nr: 2 602 143 03 94 (28/6/01) Label

Jos. Christoffel Jr. (Christoffel-Prüm) Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) 1992: A lemon yellow hue, with a tinge of green. The nose has honeyed, mealy fruit, and some classic petrol nuances. It's quite nicely poised on the palate, with good, lemon and lime petrol-influenced fruit alongside a pleasing weight, which builds through the palate, culminating in a creamy twist on the finish. A tingle of freshness rounds it off. Very good. (2/10/02) AP Nr 2 602 144 1 93 Label

Dahmen-Kuhnen Mehringer Zellerberg Riesling Auslese (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) 1998: A very pale wine, with a tinge of green. There is some good fruit on the nose, with juicy limes and other citrus fruits, as well as a dessert grape sweetness. It is marred somewhat by an unhealthy although subtle whiff of sulphur, which becomes more apparent with aeration. Good weight and richness on the palate though, typical of an Auslese, with the grapey sweetness balanced with sufficient citrussy acidity. Good grip on the finish. Quite good. (7/9/01)

Domdechant Werner Hochheimer Riesling Spätlese (Rheingau) 1999: Rich, yellow-gold hue. A nose of honeysuckle and lime honey spread on toast. Beautiful weight on the palate, which is fresh, balanced, with good acidity and a subtle carbon dioxide spritz. Weighty through the midpalate, and an intriguing caramel twist in the finish. Drinking well now, but should improve - although with some development apparent I'm reluctant to give a long drinking window. I think I would watch how it develops over the next five years. Very good. 16.5+/20

Fire Mountain Riesling (Pfalz) 2000: A pale colour here, with none of the green hint that Riesling sometimes gives. The nose is quite floral and mineral, with plenty of ripe pears and lemons, together with other citrus fruits, and there is also a touch of antiseptic. It performs well on the palate, however, with honeysuckle and fresh fruit flavours. It's quite dry, and alcoholic (a whopping 12%) on the palate, leading into a bitter twist towards the finish. Great value. Good. AP Nr. 5 907 009 241 01 (5/6/02) Label

Grans-Fassian Trittenheimer Riesling Kabinett (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) 2001: This wine has a very typical Riesling colour. Lovely nose, which clearly reflects the success of the vintage. It's very ripe, displaying white fruit aromas with a tropical edge, laced with notes of flinty, slatey minerals and flower-petals. This rich character is followed through on the palate, which is ripe, fleshy, dense and mouth-filling, more like a Spätlese that your average Kabinett - no surprise, as many Kabinett wines of this vintage were in fact bottled at Spätlese ripeness levels and above. This is balanced by fresh, zippy acidity. It's a glorious combination, which remains through a balanced, savoury, mouth-watering finish. Very good. (23/5/03) Label

Grans-Fassian Trittenheimer Altärchen Riesling Kabinett (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) 1999: A very pale, golden green wine. A peach sherbet nose, with zesty limes. On the palate, citrus fruit sweetness with some prickling, limey acidity, which unfortunately doesn't quite balance out the sweetness, particularly on the endpalate. The effect is a slightly cloying finish, and an unpleasant length. Poor. (19/12/00)

Grans-Fassian Trittenheimer Riesling Kabinett (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) 2002: Pale with a typical green tinge. Initial sulphur on the nose, which blows off to leave simple, flowery, fresh melony fruit. Lemon-tinged melon fruit in the palate, with a tingle of residual carbon dioxide at first. Rather grapey and uncomplicated, but it has moderate acidity and freshness. 13.5/20 (18/1/05)

Kendermanns Pinot Grigio (Pfalz) 2002: An interesting style decision here, as this German wine declares it's contents - Pinot Grigio - in Italian, but then who would buy a wine made from Grauer Burgunder? A pale colour, with just a tinge of gold. Fairly typical of Pinot Gris (I'm sticking to the French name) on the nose, with slightly watery, waxed tropical fruits. Medium bodied on entry, with fresh acidity and a touch of grip through the midpalate. It has a bit of weight, and some decent flavours - slightly peppery white fruits in the main. Clean, fresh, citrus finish, with some body. Good. (4/7/03) Label

S A Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) 1997: A moderate amount of colour. There are spoons of lime pickle on the nose, with a slatey edge and a suggestion of a juicy edge to the fruit. This comes through on the palate, as stacks of ripe, juicy, fleshy lime fruit sits over a structure of fresh, almost tingling, appropriate acidity. A lovely, persistent, flavoursome finish rounds it off. Very good. AP Nr 2 576 510 09 98 (10/12/01) Label

Paulinshof Riesling Kabinett (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) 2001: A lovely, pale but vibrant colour. There is an abundance of fresh, ripe fruits on the nose, with tangerine, nectarine and melon, and notes of cream and honeysuckle. This is carried along by fresh acidity, with a creamy, rich, pithy, fleshy texture which reflects the success of he vintage. Flavours of fresh tropical fruits, mirroring those found on the nose. A touch of sweetness, and some grip as well. This is delightful - elegant yet full and ripe. Very good. (18/7/03) Label

Michael Schäfer Burg-Layer Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese (Nahe) 1994: A very rich, glimmering golden wine which pleases by its appearance alone. This drew me in with enticing aromas of smoky slate and chalk, with lime fruit intertwined with the fresh bite of a crunchy green apple, and little nuances of honey on toast as well. The palate begins very fresh and balanced, before relaxing to envelop the palate with ripe, quite tropical fruit, carried along by gentle acidity. Then it really struts its stuff, opening out on the finish to give a glimpse, of a mealy depth, and a complex array of velvety, mineral-fruit character. Just delightful. Will doubtless improve further. 17.5+/20 AP Nr 7 763 076 07 95 (30/6/06)

Peter Scherf Waldracher Krone Riesling Auslese (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) 1989: A fairly rich colour to this wine for the Mosel. The nose immediately gives off classic aromas of limes with a steely edge, and then delicious petrolly aromas begin to dominate. These fade a little after a while. On tasting the wine, the forepalate is bright and vivacious, positively singing as it hits the palate. It builds body on the midpalate, with rich, honeyed lemons and limes, and even a touch of tropical fruits. There is a luscious edge, set against slightly jarring but otherwise perfectly fine acidity. Flavoursome finish and nice length. Very good. (28/6/01) Retaste: A deep colour for the Mosel. Plenty of honey swirled with petrol on the nose. Very powerful acidity on the palate, searing through a slightly fat, rounded texture, coming from a palate full of residual sugar. Good flavour still evident, with lots of sour, lemon and spice character on the finish. The acidity seems more prominent than when last tasted almost a year ago. This aspect of the wine really dominates the length. Very enjoyable, nevertheless. Good. AP Nr: 3 562 088 004 90 (11/6/02) Label

Bert Simon Serrig Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) 1991: This wine has a rich, mid golden hue tinged with green, and following on the nose is simply gorgeous, showing aromas of honey-coated pineapple and lime on toast, all bound together by a rich vein of minerals and fleeting scents of acacia. Fresh, crisp, full and weighty on the midpalate, followed by some delightful, pithy, savoury, honey edged fruit, framed with crisp, almost piercing acidity. It has a lovely rounded edge to the finish, although there is no loss of precision. Sparkling, tingling freshness on the finish is the icing on the cake. Absolutely delicious. Very good indeed. 17.5/20 AP Nr 3 555 058 10 92 (30/6/06)

Bert Simon Serrig Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) 2001: Good colour for a cool climate Riesling. The nose has aromas of minerals and bright tangerine fruit, with floral nuances in the background. It's followed by a lovely, fleshy texture with more weight than is usual for a Kabinett - but that's the 2001 vintage for you. Minerals, stones and crushed lime fruit flavours. Good acidity as well as a spritz of dissolved carbon dioxide. Lovely balance - will only improve in the cellar, but very drinkable now. Very good. AP Nr. 3 555 058 502 (6/2/04) Label Retaste: A second attack of this richly coloured Kabinett in its youth. Fabulous, profound ripe fruit on the nose, with pure smoky and stony notes. Full, ripe and very bright flavours on the palate, with a plump feel behind the smoky white fruits. Firma acidity behind it all, through to an almost meaty finish. Some length. This will go well in the cellar. AP Nr. 3 555 058 502. 17+/20 (8/12/04) Label

Bert Simon Serrig Würtzberg Riesling Kabinett (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) 2001: Impressive depth of colour, and a similar impression in the nose, which has aromas of lime, honeysuckle, minerals and even a twist of mango. Lovely weight, certainly more than your average Kabinett, developing a luscious, honeyed mouthfeel through the midpalate. Mineral and green herb notes on the palate, honeysuckle fruit, and a bright, tingly acidity to support it all. Somewhat short finish at present. Nevertheless, this is really very good, and super quality for the money. 16.5+/20 AP Nr. 3 555 058 702 (15/10/04) Retaste: Lovely colour, and a lovely nose too, ripe and expressive, dripping with sweet, juicy, syrupy fruit. Similar profile on the palate, with decent acidity. Mango and honeysuckle fruit on the palate, and a fresh minerality. Really very good indeed, and consistent on this second tasting. 16.5+/20 AP Nr. 3 555 058 702 (18/1/05) Retaste: Another bottle of this house favourite. Bright and typical colour. Fresh, zesty, lime-driven nose, with mango and lovely verve. Deliciously full, mouth-filling, fresh balanced palate, with piles of fresh citrus character and super acidity. Even the finish shows better this time, with more impact and length. This is delicious. 17/20 (2/5/05) Label

Bert Simon Serrig Würtzberg Riesling Kabinett (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) 2002: Lovely ripe colour, infused with a tinge of green. Obvious fruit on the nose; plump, ripe Galia melon, with honeysuckle and smoke, but with a very forward, mineral, talcum-like note also. Rich, ripe, fresh, balanced, plump and bright, a wine to be enjoyed. Fresh, green, herbal character alongside the mineral fruit. Similar profile to the 2001, but with a more open, suggestive feel. Really nice weight, showing a touch more richness on the finish. This is good. 16+/20

Bert Simon Kasel Kehrnagel Riesling Kabinett (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) 1990: Honey and even a touch of botrytis on the nose, with a big dollop of lime pickle. There is a steely streak in the background. A fairly intense palate, with smoothly textured honey and limes and cracking acidity. Good. AP Nr: 3 555 058 12 91 (25/5/01)

Dr H Thanisch Bernkasteler Graben Riesling Kabinett (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) 1999: Juicy limes with plenty of mineral and blossom nuances on the nose of this wine. The palate has a juicy edge, with fairly fresh acidity, some grapey sweetness, and a crisp and sparkling mineral edge. Nicely rounded wine. Good. AP Nr: 2 576 742 004 00. (4/1/02)

Staatliche Weinbaudomane Trier Avelsbacher Hammerstein Riesling QbA (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) 1992: Definitely a mealy, organic edge to the nose, but fear not, there is also plenty of fresh, steely lime fruit. Quite stark on the palate, with freshly squeezed lemons and limes, and a healthy streak of tingling acidity. Certainly a food wine, although it drinks nicely alone with a few hours of aeration. Sensible texture which sits pleasingly on the palate, with a fairly round, fresh-fruit finish. Good. AP Nr: 3 561 107 032 93 (31/7/01)

Staatliche Weinbaudomäne Trier Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) 1992: At first there is an unusual mealy edge to the nose, but this disappears leaving wonderful aromas of limes. The palate is striking - it is superbly balanced and elegant rather than big and 'in your face'. It has clean, floral fruit with rich, lime cordial aromas. Nicely textured, clean fruity finish. Good. (27/4/01) Label

Vereinigte Hospitien 'Sanctus Jacobus' Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) 1989: This has a nose dripping with honeycomb and pineapple fruit, with a stern, steely edge. There is even a hint of botrytis. On the palate a lovely, rich texture, but with good balancing acidity. Weighty pineapple, melon and Cox's apple fruit, with a streak of botrytis again. All this richness is married with a steely starkness, typical of the Mosel. Clean finish and lovely length complete the picture. Good. (27/4/01) Label

Vereinigte Hospitien 'Sanctus Jacobus' Trierer St Maximiner Kreuzberg Riesling Kabinett (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) 1990: A classic Mosel nose, redolent of limes rubbed on sheet steel. Some less obvious slatey, petrolly notes. On the palate however, almost painful, stark acidity takes a lot of aeration to settle sufficiently to make this wine drinkable. Even food doesn't help. There is intense lime fruit, but the wine lacks the sweet edge that one would expect and seems tired and unbalanced. Poor. (20/7/01)

Vereinigte Hospitien 'Sanctus Jacobus' Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) 1992: A pleasing colour, and a nose dominated by petrol aromas but with an underlying streak of grapefruit freshness. Good weight on entry, with some delicious mango and pineapple tropical fruit nuances, with some creamy, petrolly notes. This is more like it! Balanced sweetness and acidity through the midpalate, leading to a fresh, fruit-rich finish. Very easy drinking. Good. (20/7/01)

Vereinigte Hospitien 'Sanctus Jacobus' Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) 1992: A lemon gold hue, with petrol and floral notes dominating the nose. A simple, rounded palate, with a good balance of sweetness with fresh, correct, lime cordial acidity. Leads into a clean finish. Pleasant and inoffensive summer quaffing. Quite good. (20/7/01)

Zimmermann-Graeff Steinweiler Kloster Liebfrauenberg Beerenauslese (Pfalz) 1998: A moderately coloured wine, with a sweet, grapey, slightly honeyed nose, with some hints of juicy citrus fruits. Sweet and weighty on the palate, although somewhat clumsy overall, but in its favour it has satisfactory acidity. Good notes of tangerine fruit on the finish. Fair. (26/6/01)

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