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Germany: Odd Bottles

A country that produces a dazzling array of fine white wines - but you have to tread carefully, for there is still much rubbish about. Speak to a merchant that knows Germany if you wish to discover her treasures. Or follow my recommendations on the best producers. One note: I do try to keep a record of the AP number but human fallibility means this is sometimes missing. Click to locate stockists.

Christoffel-Berres Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese 1993: A fairly rich (for the Mosel) yellow golden hue is the first sign that this wine has something to offer. A deliciously intense nose, full of fresh, zesty limes and dripping with rich, honeyed fruit. The palate has the weight to match this exuberant nose, yet with fine, integrated and balanced acidity. There is a slatey, steely edge to the palate, but it really plays second fiddle to the honeyed fruit flavours. It all rolls together into a lovely finish, with some length. 18/20 (June 2001) AP number: 2 602 143 03 94 Label

Jos. Christoffel Jr. (Christoffel-Prüm) Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese 1992: A lemon yellow hue, with a tinge of green. The nose has honeyed, mealy fruit, and some classic petrol nuances. It's quite nicely poised on the palate, with good, lemon and lime petrol-influenced fruit alongside a pleasing weight, which builds through the palate, culminating in a creamy twist on the finish. A tingle of freshness rounds it off. 16.5/20 (October 2002) AP number 2 602 144 1 93 Label

Dahmen-Kuhnen Mehringer Zellerberg Riesling Auslese 1998: A very pale wine, with a tinge of green. There is some good fruit on the nose, with juicy limes and other citrus fruits, as well as a dessert grape sweetness. It is marred somewhat by an unhealthy although subtle whiff of sulphur, which becomes more apparent with aeration. Good weight and richness on the palate though, typical of an Auslese, with the grapey sweetness balanced with sufficient citrussy acidity. Good grip on the finish. 14/20 (September 2001)

Grans-Fassian Trittenheimer Riesling Kabinett 2001: This wine has a very typical Riesling colour. Lovely nose, which clearly reflects the success of the vintage. It's very ripe, displaying white fruit aromas with a tropical edge, laced with notes of flinty, slatey minerals and flower-petals. This rich character is followed through on the palate, which is ripe, fleshy, dense and mouth-filling, more like a Spätlese that your average Kabinett - no surprise, as many Kabinett wines of this vintage were in fact bottled at Spätlese ripeness levels and above. This is balanced by fresh, zippy acidity. It's a glorious combination, which remains through a balanced, savoury, mouth-watering finish. 16.5/20 (May 2003) Label

Grans-Fassian Trittenheimer Altärchen Riesling Kabinett 1999: A very pale, golden green wine. A peach sherbet nose, with zesty limes. On the palate, citrus fruit sweetness with some prickling, limey acidity, which unfortunately doesn't quite balance out the sweetness, particularly on the endpalate. The effect is a slightly cloying finish, and an unpleasant length. 12/20 (December 2000)

Grans-Fassian Trittenheimer Riesling Kabinett 2002: Pale with a typical green tinge. Initial sulphur on the nose, which blows off to leave simple, flowery, fresh melony fruit. Lemon-tinged melon fruit in the palate, with a tingle of residual carbon dioxide at first. Rather grapey and uncomplicated, but it has moderate acidity and freshness. 13.5/20 (January 2005)

Reinhold Haart Piesporter Riesling Kabinett 2005: A pale, clear, lemon-gold hue here. Delightful, fresh, with minerals, chalk and pineapple on the nose, all these aromas deliciously crisp and well defined. It has a fabulous palate; flesh, texture and weight, but always dominating is the vibrant, minerally, stony, zippy acidity. A stony pineapple flavour follows, with green apple, rocks and ore. Brilliant style here, with much more character than I found last time, on reviewing my note. Very well done. 17+/20 (June 2008) AP number: 2 596 429 4 06

Kees-Kieren Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 2005: Bright and yellow-gold hue. Fabulous nose, dripping with fruit, melons and pears, with a very lifted and vivacious character. This holds true on the palate, which has flesh holding a wealth of tropical fruits, but with a welcome undercurrent of limey, spicy, lifted, spritzy acidity. Deliciously complete, very rounded and sweet, it holds together beautifully through to the lingering finish. Although way beyond the sweetness level classicists would demand, if you approach the wine with the knowledge this is a very sweet Kabinett, the wine is superb. It is amazing to think that when I last tasted this in a line up of 2005 wines, it was one of the fresher, balanced, zippy Kabinetts. 17.5+/20 (December 2008) AP number: 2 583 092 18 06

Alfred Merkelbach Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese 1998: Crystal clear, a very pale green-tinged gold. On the nose there is plenty of vibrant and rich fruit, sweet and slightly perfumed apples and limes, talcy minerals and strawberry leaf. Lots of lovely richness on the palate, but not the weight that you might expect from an auslese today. Nice acids, and a lovely gentle, supple, sappy, mealy fleshiness towards the finish. Some length to it to. A rich but gentle style which has a lot of appeal. 17/20 AP number: 2 602 065 013 99 (April 2008)

Paulinshof Riesling Kabinett 2001: A lovely, pale but vibrant colour. There is an abundance of fresh, ripe fruits on the nose, with tangerine, nectarine and melon, and notes of cream and honeysuckle. This is carried along by fresh acidity, with a creamy, rich, pithy, fleshy texture which reflects the success of he vintage. Flavours of fresh tropical fruits, mirroring those found on the nose. A touch of sweetness, and some grip as well. This is delightful - elegant yet full and ripe. 16.5/20 (July 2003) Label

S A Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 1997: A moderate amount of colour. There are spoons of lime pickle on the nose, with a slatey edge and a suggestion of a juicy edge to the fruit. This comes through on the palate, as stacks of ripe, juicy, fleshy lime fruit sits over a structure of fresh, almost tingling, appropriate acidity. A lovely, persistent, flavoursome finish rounds it off. 16.5/20 (December 2001) AP number: 2 576 510 09 98 Label

Peter Scherf Waldracher Krone Riesling Auslese 1989: A fairly rich colour to this wine for the Mosel. The nose immediately gives off classic aromas of limes with a steely edge, and then delicious petrolly aromas begin to dominate. These fade a little after a while. On tasting the wine, the forepalate is bright and vivacious, positively singing as it hits the palate. It builds body on the midpalate, with rich, honeyed lemons and limes, and even a touch of tropical fruits. There is a luscious edge, set against slightly jarring but otherwise perfectly fine acidity. Flavoursome finish and nice length. 16.5/20 (June 2001) Retaste: A deep colour for the Mosel. Plenty of honey swirled with petrol on the nose. Very powerful acidity on the palate, searing through a slightly fat, rounded texture, coming from a palate full of residual sugar. Good flavour still evident, with lots of sour, lemon and spice character on the finish. The acidity seems more prominent than when last tasted almost a year ago. This aspect of the wine really dominates the length. Very enjoyable, nevertheless. 16/20 (June 2002) AP number: 3 562 088 004 90 Label

Bert Simon Serrig Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett 1991: This wine has a rich, mid golden hue tinged with green, and following on the nose is simply gorgeous, showing aromas of honey-coated pineapple and lime on toast, all bound together by a rich vein of minerals and fleeting scents of acacia. Fresh, crisp, full and weighty on the midpalate, followed by some delightful, pithy, savoury, honey edged fruit, framed with crisp, almost piercing acidity. It has a lovely rounded edge to the finish, although there is no loss of precision. Sparkling, tingling freshness on the finish is the icing on the cake. Absolutely delicious. Very good indeed. 17.5/20 (June 2006) AP number: 3 555 058 10 92

Bert Simon Serrig Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett 2001: Good colour for a cool climate Riesling. The nose has aromas of minerals and bright tangerine fruit, with floral nuances in the background. It's followed by a lovely, fleshy texture with more weight than is usual for a Kabinett - but that's the 2001 vintage for you. Minerals, stones and crushed lime fruit flavours. Good acidity as well as a spritz of dissolved carbon dioxide. Lovely balance - will only improve in the cellar, but very drinkable now. 16.5/20 (February 2004) Retaste: A second attack on this richly coloured Kabinett in its youth. Fabulous, profound ripe fruit on the nose, with pure smoky and stony notes. Full, ripe and very bright flavours on the palate, with a plump feel behind the smoky white fruits. Firma acidity behind it all, through to an almost meaty finish. Some length. This will go well in the cellar. 17+/20 (December 2004) AP number: 3 555 058 502 Label

Bert Simon Serrig Würtzberg Riesling Kabinett 2001: Impressive depth of colour, and a similar impression in the nose, which has aromas of lime, honeysuckle, minerals and even a twist of mango. Lovely weight, certainly more than your average Kabinett, developing a luscious, honeyed mouthfeel through the midpalate. Mineral and green herb notes on the palate, honeysuckle fruit, and a bright, tingly acidity to support it all. Somewhat short finish at present. Nevertheless, this is really very good, and super quality for the money. 16.5+/20 (October 2004) Retaste: Lovely colour, and a lovely nose too, ripe and expressive, dripping with sweet, juicy, syrupy fruit. Similar profile on the palate, with decent acidity. Mango and honeysuckle fruit on the palate, and a fresh minerality. Really very good indeed, and consistent on this second tasting. 16.5+/20 (January 2005) Retaste: Another bottle of this house favourite. Bright and typical colour. Fresh, zesty, lime-driven nose, with mango and lovely verve. Deliciously full, mouth-filling, fresh balanced palate, with piles of fresh citrus character and super acidity. Even the finish shows better this time, with more impact and length. This is delicious. 17/20 (February 2005) AP number: 3 555 058 702 Label

Bert Simon Serrig Würtzberg Riesling Kabinett 2002: Lovely ripe colour, infused with a tinge of green. Obvious fruit on the nose; plump, ripe Galia melon, with honeysuckle and smoke, but with a very forward, mineral, talcum-like note also. Rich, ripe, fresh, balanced, plump and bright, a wine to be enjoyed. Fresh, green, herbal character alongside the mineral fruit. Similar profile to the 2001, but with a more open, suggestive feel. Really nice weight, showing a touch more richness on the finish. This is good. 16+/20 (May 2005)

Bert Simon Kasel Kehrnagel Riesling Kabinett 1990: Honey and even a touch of botrytis on the nose, with a big dollop of lime pickle. There is a steely streak in the background. A fairly intense palate, with smoothly textured honey and limes and cracking acidity. 16/20 (May 2001) AP number: 3 555 058 12 91

Dr H Thanisch Bernkasteler Graben Riesling Kabinett 1999: Juicy limes with plenty of mineral and blossom nuances on the nose of this wine. The palate has a juicy edge, with fairly fresh acidity, some grapey sweetness, and a crisp and sparkling mineral edge. Nicely rounded wine. 16/20 (January 2002) AP number: 2 576 742 004 00

Staatliche Weinbaudomane Trier Avelsbacher Hammerstein Riesling QbA 1992: Definitely a mealy, organic edge to the nose, but fear not, there is also plenty of fresh, steely lime fruit. Quite stark on the palate, with freshly squeezed lemons and limes, and a healthy streak of tingling acidity. Certainly a food wine, although it drinks nicely alone with a few hours of aeration. Sensible texture which sits pleasingly on the palate, with a fairly round, fresh-fruit finish. 16/20 (July 2001) AP number: 3 561 107 032 93

Staatliche Weinbaudomäne Trier Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett 1992: At first there is an unusual mealy edge to the nose, but this disappears leaving wonderful aromas of limes. The palate is striking - it is superbly balanced and elegant rather than big and 'in your face'. It has clean, floral fruit with rich, lime cordial aromas. Nicely textured, clean fruity finish. 16/20 (April 2001) Label

Vereinigte Hospitien 'Sanctus Jacobus' Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 1989: This has a nose dripping with honeycomb and pineapple fruit, with a stern, steely edge. There is even a hint of botrytis. On the palate a lovely, rich texture, but with good balancing acidity. Weighty pineapple, melon and Cox's apple fruit, with a streak of botrytis again. All this richness is married with a steely starkness, typical of the Mosel. Clean finish and lovely length complete the picture. 16/20 (April 2001) Label

Vereinigte Hospitien 'Sanctus Jacobus' Trierer St Maximiner Kreuzberg Riesling Kabinett 1990: A classic Mosel nose, redolent of limes rubbed on sheet steel. Some less obvious slatey, petrolly notes. On the palate however, almost painful, stark acidity takes a lot of aeration to settle sufficiently to make this wine drinkable. Even food doesn't help. There is intense lime fruit, but the wine lacks the sweet edge that one would expect and seems tired and unbalanced. 12/20 (July 2001)

Vereinigte Hospitien 'Sanctus Jacobus' Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 1992: A pleasing colour, and a nose dominated by petrol aromas but with an underlying streak of grapefruit freshness. Good weight on entry, with some delicious mango and pineapple tropical fruit nuances, with some creamy, petrolly notes. This is more like it! Balanced sweetness and acidity through the midpalate, leading to a fresh, fruit-rich finish. Very easy drinking. 16/20 (July 2001)

Vereinigte Hospitien 'Sanctus Jacobus' Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett 1992: A lemon gold hue, with petrol and floral notes dominating the nose. A simple, rounded palate, with a good balance of sweetness with fresh, correct, lime cordial acidity. Leads into a clean finish. Pleasant and inoffensive summer quaffing. 14/20 (July 2001)

Dr Wagner Riesling 2007: This qualitätswein has a very pale hue, and a gentle nose of soft red appleskin and slate, with little complex nuances, mere hints of mango and lychee. It has a a slightly fat presence on the palate, and a soft, gentle and understated character. There is some acidity here, but it is low-key and doesn't really balance out the texture of the wine. Nice flavours, apples undercut by a slatey-talcy-citrus element, but always rather pillowy and plump rather than vibrant or defined. There is a nice little rounding up of grip and definition at the finish, but it is fleeting. Straightforward and certainly drinkable. 14.5/20 AP number: 3 551 073 13 08 (December 2008)

Michael Schäfer Burg-Layer Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese 1994: A very rich, glimmering golden wine which pleases by its appearance alone. This drew me in with enticing aromas of smoky slate and chalk, with lime fruit intertwined with the fresh bite of a crunchy green apple, and little nuances of honey on toast as well. The palate begins very fresh and balanced, before relaxing to envelop the palate with ripe, quite tropical fruit, carried along by gentle acidity. Then it really struts its stuff, opening out on the finish to give a glimpse, of a mealy depth, and a complex array of velvety, mineral-fruit character. Just delightful. Will doubtless improve further. 17.5+/20 (June 2006) AP number: 7 763 076 07 95

Domdechant Werner Hochheimer Riesling Spätlese 1999: Rich, yellow-gold hue. A nose of honeysuckle and lime honey spread on toast. Beautiful weight on the palate, which is fresh, balanced, with good acidity and a subtle carbon dioxide spritz. Weighty through the midpalate, and an intriguing caramel twist in the finish. Drinking well now, but should improve - although with some development apparent I'm reluctant to give a long drinking window. I think I would watch how it develops over the next five years. Very good. 16.5+/20 (May 2005)

Fire Mountain Riesling 2000: A pale colour here, with none of the green hint that Riesling sometimes gives. The nose is quite floral and mineral, with plenty of ripe pears and lemons, together with other citrus fruits, and there is also a touch of antiseptic. It performs well on the palate, however, with honeysuckle and fresh fruit flavours. It's quite dry, and alcoholic (a whopping 12%) on the palate, leading into a bitter twist towards the finish. Great value. 16/20 (June 2002) AP number: 5 907 009 241 01 Label

Kendermanns Pinot Grigio 2002: An interesting style decision here, as this German wine declares it's contents - Pinot Grigio - in Italian, but then who would buy a wine made from Grauer Burgunder? A pale colour, with just a tinge of gold. Fairly typical of Pinot Gris (I'm sticking to the French name) on the nose, with slightly watery, waxed tropical fruits. Medium bodied on entry, with fresh acidity and a touch of grip through the midpalate. It has a bit of weight, and some decent flavours - slightly peppery white fruits in the main. Clean, fresh, citrus finish, with some body. 16/20 (July 2003) Label

Zimmermann-Graeff Steinweiler Kloster Liebfrauenberg Beerenauslese 1998: A moderately coloured wine, with a sweet, grapey, slightly honeyed nose, with some hints of juicy citrus fruits. Sweet and weighty on the palate, although somewhat clumsy overall, but in its favour it has satisfactory acidity. Good notes of tangerine fruit on the finish. 13.5/20 (June 2001)