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Chile: Odd Bottles

Chile is a country with much to offer, and in South America it leads the way in terms of quality and price, although there is always talk of Argentina's potential. The wines continue to improve year on year. Click to locate stockists.

Including wines from Casablanca.

Errazuriz Max Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Aconcagua) 2002: Beautiful purity on the nose but with a dark note. Fine structure, more so than the Max Reserva Shiraz or Merlot. Full, creamy, with plump blackcurrant fruit and good texture. Firm, grippy. 16+/20 (November 2004)

Errazuriz Max Reserva Shiraz (Aconcagua) 2001: Dark, mineral, meaty, earthy - a complex nose. Ripe, sweet, extracted fruit; a big, firm palate, plump and creamy although with a metallic note. Bitter grip, firmly structured. Very good. 16+/20 (November 2004)

Errazuriz Max Reserva Merlot (Aconcagua) 2000: Dark and spicy nose, with evolved fruitcake and spice notes. Ripe, plump and seductive. Softly structured, round and creamy, with spice and pepper notes. Lacks a little backbone. Good though. 15.5/20 (November 2004)

Errazuriz La Cumbre Shiraz (Aconcagua) 2002: From a single vineyard plot. Treated to 100% new oak, half French, half American. Pure, berry fruit nose. Concentrated, dense, similarly pure black fruit palate. Firm, tannic structure, but nicely balanced by fruit. This finishes beautifully. Very good. 16.5+/20 (November 2004)

Errazuriz Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve (Aconcagua) 2000: Varies with the vintage, but 100% Cabernet Sauvignon in 2000. Ripe and exotic, with great depth and concentration. Full, structured, yet elegant and pure. Lovely fluidity on the palate, with balanced structure and dense extract. Very good style indeed. 17+/20 (November 2004)

Errazuriz Syrah Reserva (Aconcagua) 1997: A rich, inky hue. A lovely nose of liquorice, blackcurrant, blackberry and vanillin oak. Hints of pepper and spice. On the palate, good tannins and acidity. The fruit profile follows the nose, but with more raspberry characteristics. A creamy texture, good body, and a lovely, clean finish. Hints of bitter, fine chocolate. Delicious. 16.5/20 (August 2000) Retaste: A dense red-purple colour, with aromas of blackberries, raspberries, cherries and vanilla, with a sheen of oak and an earthy note. It has a soft and warm texture on entry, with some acidic summer berry fruits and a touch of buttery crumble. There is a lovely depth of richness and flavour, with nicely integrated tannins. Finishes well with a decent length. I had heard this wine was falling apart, but that's not true, although bear in mind I do have good, cold storage. Nevertheless it's not going to improve. Drink up. 16.5/20 (January 2002)

Vina Porta Cabernet Sauvignon Select Reserve (Aconcagua) 1998: This has a garnet-purple hue, and a lovely nose of stony and mineral blackcurrant fruit, with a touch of blackcurrant leaf. The palate has ripe fruit, but that mineral note persists. Minimally noticeable tannins and balanced acidity give an easy drinking, yet firm and elegant drink. 16.5/20 (April 2001)

Casablanca Santa Isabel Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca) 2003: An old favourite for quaffing, which has occasionally disappointed (the 2002), occasionally really impressed. The winemaking team at Vina Casablanca have obviously cottoned onto the wonder of early harvest and methoxypyraxzines, as the nose here is loaded with asparagus, tinned peas, green capsicum and greengage. In fact, anything green. Fresh, very dry, firm palate with more of the same. I quite like it, but as I only drink Sauvignon once or twice a year nowadays (excepting that blended with Semillon and botrytis) I can take this sort of assault. Good. 16/20 (April 2005)

Casablanca Santa Isabel Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca) 2002: A very pale colour. Quite expressive on the nose, with good ripe gooseberry and greengage fruit, but also a less pleasing, harsh grapefruit character. Nice fruit on entry, but hollow through the midpalate, with a harsh, acidic mouthfeel, and lacks presence on the finish. A shame - this has been a perennial quaffer for me over the past few vintages. 13/20 (January 2003)

Casablanca Santa Isabel Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca) 2001: The 2001 is one of the best vintage of this wine yet, surpassing the 2000 and the 1999, both of which I have tasted during the past year. It has a pale colour, but it has an outgoing nose of grass, greengage and green capsicum. There is good balance on the palate, with a weight of classic, dry Sauvignon fruit cut with the desired acidity. Clean and crisp, and so drinkable. 16.5/20 (October 2001) Label

Casablanca Santa Isabel Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca) 2000: Classic New World Sauvignon nose, a combination of citrus and tropical fruits. Medium bodied with full fruit flavours, and fresh, zingy acidity. Lovely stuff. 16.5/20 (April 2001)

Casablanca Santa Isabel Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca) 1999: This pale lemon-yellow wine has an appealing nose of succulent, ripe tropical fruits, with hints of grass and minerals. The texture on the palate is classic Chilean, quite weighty, with a 'fat', creamy feel to it, but with good balancing acidity. Loads of ripe melon and green apple, leading into a fresh, slightly tart, mouth watering finish. This is what Chilean Sauvignon is all about. 16.5/20 (December 2000) Label

Casablanca Santa Isabel Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca) 1998: A rich, golden colour that doesn't suggest Sauvignon. Gorgeous, powerful aromas of lychees, asparagus and gooseberries on the nose. The palate continues with the lychee theme, and has an unctuously rich, low acid texture. Unfortunately it seems somewhat hollow from the midpalate through to the finish, and it really needs a little more of that sharp, tingling acidity. Drinkable. 14.5/20 (December 2000)

Errazuriz Wild Ferment Chardonnay (Casablanca) 2001: Moderate depth of hue. Buttery-nutty style. Ripe, flavoursome palate, buttery but with decent acidity. Although ripe and fat, not OTT. A good style with some reigning in of the oak. 16/20 (November 2004)

Montes Alpha Chardonnay (Casablanca) 2003: Partly barrel fermented, then into French oak. This shows on the nose, which is old-style Chilean; buttery and fat, with a trace of fruit-derived lemon freshness. Big, full, buttery palate, but with a fresh edge. Not quite with the times, but good nevertheless. 15.5+/20 (November 2004)

The Central Valley is conventionally divided into Maipo, Rapel, Maule and Bió-Bió, and I have grouped my tasting notes according to these subregions below, except for those wines ambiguously classified as 'Central Valley' origin, which are listed first.

Viñedos Organicos Emiliana 'Coyam' (Central Valley) 2001: An unholy blend of almost organic Carmenere, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mourvèdre grapes, the result being a dense, concentrated wine which evolves in the glass and would surely benefit from cellar time. It has a dark, purple-black hue, and a powerful macerated-berry nose, overlaid with sweet chocolate and toffee character, no doubt oak-derived. There are no surprises on the palate, which offers dense, creamy, sweet fruit backed up by a fistful of tannins. The structure and oak are a little overpowering at present, but with time yield to the black fruit somewhat. Doubtless would benefit from three to four years in the cellar. 15+/20 (December 2004)

Including wines from Santiago, Talagante, Pirque, Llano del Maipo & Buin.

Errazuriz Vinedo Chadwick (Maipo) 1999: Roasted nuts and black fruit nose. Very fluid and integrated palate. Black fruits, lots of firm tannin, ripe with good structure. Needs five to six years in the cellar. Very good indeed. 17+/20 (November 2004)

Rothschild Escudo Rojo (Maipo) 1999: This is the latest Chilean effort from the Baron Rothschild stable. A typically Chilean glossy, red-black hue. Tarry, brambly fruit on the nose, with a similar chewy, tarry character to the dense fruit on the palate. It has a good structure of ripe tannins and balanced acidity, with plenty of extract and a creamy edge to the texture. It has power rather than elegance. Overall a good wine, marred just by a little greenness through the midpalate. 15.5/20 (December 2001)

Santa Carolina Chardonnay Semillon (Maipo) 1997: An enticing fruit salad, cream, butter and lemon curd nose. The palate has fresh and up-front acidity with full fruit flavours. More malo-derived buttery, creamy flavours. A good streak of white fruit and citrus acidity provide a lovely backbone for the voluptuous flavours. Finishes surprisingly fresh and light, with a mild, spicy twist. 15.5/20 (August 2000)

Santa Rita Triple C (Maipo) 1997: A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Carmenere, hence the name. Good looking glossy red-black wine. The nose is loaded with sweet cassis, berry fruits, and some hints of Cabernet complexity with notes of pencil lead and old furniture. A nicely textured palate is accompanied by sweet fruit, firm tannins, correct acidity, with an overall good balance. Delicious. 16.5/20 (January 2001)

Santa Rita Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva (Maipo) 1998: Good colour. Claretty blackcurrant fruit on the nose, rich and cassis-like. A touch smoky. Some very pure, mature blackcurrant fruit on the palate, with blackcurrant leaves. Good tannic backbone gives structure. Balanced. With all this fruit, tannin and balance this wine has a lot of potential. 16.5+/20 (March 2001)

Veramonte Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo) 1998: A deep red-purple colour, and a nose laden with blackberry and spice, with a green edge. The palate is big, lushly textured, but with high acidity. It's quite a tannic wine, and a touch harsh. There's a sweet edge to the fruit, a spicy finish and warming, alcoholic length. 14.5/20 (December 2001)

Vina Gracia de Chile Pasajero Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (Maipo) 1999: A deep colour. Good strong fruit on the nose, but difficult to assess from this ridiculously small tasting sample (served in some sort of medicine thimble). Firm tannins and full bodied, with fruit and balance. Worth investigating further. 15?/20 (February 2001)

Including the wines of Cachapoal, Colchagua, Santa Cruz & Peralillo.

Cono Sur 20 Barrels Pinot Noir (Rapel) 1998: Colour fairly pale, with a touch of tawny. The nose has spice, coffee, damp undergrowth and rolled tobacco leaves. Pleasing texture on the palate, with spicy tannins, getting really peppery on finish, overall medium bodied. Oak influenced. Some fruit but seems quite mature with secondary characteristics, animal fur and singed hair, particularly on the finish. This wine seems quite advanced, and I have to question storage conditions. Enjoyable, nevertheless. 15/20 (June 2002)

Cono Sur Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve (Rapel) 1996: Deep inky purple, and a richly fruited, jammy, blackcurrant nose. On the palate it has more big, jammy fruit, and is somewhat one-dimensional, with little of the complexity that you might expect from a reserve wine. Low acidity makes it soft and quaffable, but in truth it borders on unbalanced. 13.5/20 (February 2001)

Cono Sur Isla Negra Merlot (Rapel) 1998: A fantastic, inky black, intense colour. Aromas of blackcurrants and plums on the nose. On the palate the texture is rich and thick, almost painfully so. Rich black fruit, reasonable acidity, good tannins. Finishes smoothly. A pleasant, quite intense wine. 15/20 (October 2000)

La Palmeria Gran Reserva Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon (Rapel) 1998: Rich purple hue. Nose confirms that Merlot dominates the blend, with classic dusty black fruit and spicy fruitcake aromas. The palate has upfront blackcurrant fruit, with a very lush, low acid profile, and a good tannic backbone which shows on the finish. Very easy to drink. Despite the grand name, not for long-term cellaring. 15.5/20 (June 2000) Retaste: Initially a touch rubbery, then sweet cassis and black fruits. Seems to have gained a little in structure, with an attractive, dry slightly bitter astringency, and those tannins are still there. Sweet fruit, low acid, and good to drink. 15.5/20 (January 2001)

Concha y Toro Terrunyo Carmenere (Cachapoal) 2002: From Block 27, Peumo Vineyard. This is a terroir wine, the label tells me. It also tells me it is 14.5%. Super, deep, glossy-inky hue. And a lovely nose too, just what one wants from a good Chilean; pepper, tobacco and chocolate-coated black fruits. Lovely palate; soft and voluptuous, creamy and seductive, with low acidity, but with a little grip in the background which shows more on the finish. In fact a decent, dry, grippy length. This is enjoyable in a leave-your-brain-at-the-door sort of way, although not one for the cellar I feel. 16/20 (April 2005)

Bisquertt La Joya Merlot Gran Reserva (Colchagua) 1998: A vibrant, densely coloured, young looking wine. Spicy Merlot fruit on the nose, with more spice notes derived from barrel maturation. Really quite tannic on the palate, but this buoys up a hedonistic texture, loaded with red fruits and more spice, with only a moderate acidity. Easy drinking, but would benefit from further time for the oak and tannins to integrate. 14.5/20 (August 2001)

Montes Alpha Apalta Vineyard Syrah (Colchagua) 2000: This has a typically Chilean glossy edge to the colour, which is remarkably dark and dense. An impressive nose, full of chocolate and coffee, blackberries and raspberries, spiced oak and cream. Occasionally there's a burning note of alcohol, no surprise as this wine comes in at 14%, but overall it seems pure and approachable. Dense, creamy, but stuffed with pure berry fruit and cream on the palate, with a good lick of oak, moderate-low acidity and ripe, approachable tannins. Bags of easily accessible pleasure here. Drink now or over the next five years. 15.5/20 (January 2004) Label

Montes Alpha Merlot (Colchagua) 2002: Quite closed nose. Big, sweet, structured palate. Rounded mouthfeel but not a huge impact on the palate otherwise. Nevertheless shows a nice, fruitcake finish. Rather difficult to judge at present. Needs time, probably 3-4 years. 15.5+/20 (November 2004)

Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua) 2002: Again quite closed. A suggestion of dark black fruits. Sweet, ripe, smoothly integrate palate. Full texture, with a soft roundness over some grippy tannins. There is a slightly confected, herbal note which I find detracting. We can hope this disappears with time. 15.5+/20 (November 2004)

Montes Alpha Syrah (Colchagua) 2002: This includes a little Merlot, up to 10%. Sweet, peppery with a slightly confected edge. Good, sweet, ripe palate. Very primary, obvious Syrah flavour. A little herbal and cherryish. Full. I like this. Again, though, it needs time; 4-5 years. 16+/20 (November 2004)

Montes Folly (Colchagua) 2002: Just the third vintage for this cuvée. Complex nose here. Dark, minerally, dense fruits. Fine palate, elegant balance. Firm, rounded, a sense of grip, structure, yet a refined style. Tannins show on the finish. This certainly isn't a folly. Excellent, with potential for short-term improvement. 18+/20 (November 2004)

Montes Alpha M (Colchagua) 2001: Deep, glossy hue. Impressively deep, dark, dense, extracted fruits. This translates to a lovely depth of fruit on the palate, with very good style. Dark, a little backward, with a wealth of grippy tannin and plenty of substance. Very structured, ageworthy style which needs 3-4 years in the cellar at least. 18.5+/20 (November 2004)

Montes Alpha M (Colchagua) 1996: Some maturity on inspection. An interesting nose, showing more savage, animalistic, meaty aromas than I would have expected for this blend, which is 80% Cabernet Sauvignon with some Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, together with some background earthy fruit. Similar character on the palate, which doesn't resemble the usual Bordeaux blend. Mature, integrated tannins and nicely balanced acids. Good mouthfeel, supple, with good body and a little grip. Very good. Drink now and over the next few years. 16.5/20 (November 2004)

MontGras Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva (Colchagua) 1997: Good colour. Ripe, elegant blackcurrant fruit and plum jam on the nose, with some secondary vegetal and cigar box notes providing a touch of interest. Super balance on the palate, elegant fruit, and a streak of toasty/smoky oak. Very easy to drink, probably at peak now. 15/20 (April 2001)

Including the wines of Curicó & Lontué, Talca, Cauquenes, Linares & Parral. I also include here wines from Chimbarongo.

Concha y Toro Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc (Maule Valley) 2000: A wine only recently admitted into the UK thanks to a change in the law. A mid-golden hue, vibrant and shimmering. A fabulous nose, fruit-led but quite powerful, with intense, tropical fruit laced with honey. Good sweetness but also body and structure on the palate, which has the feel of botrytis. Lovely honeyed tropical fruit flavours with a great purity. Super acidity too. It lacks complexity but this is perhaps to be expected. This is very impressive and available at a bargain price. 16/20 (August 2004)

Concha y Toro Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc (Maule Valley) 2002: Another vintage of this good value botrytised Sauvignon. Mid-golden hue, with a nose of candied fruit, with a little apricot and botrytis character evident on the nose. Nicely balanced palate, showing sweetness and sufficient acidity. Nice pineapple and citrus character. Simple, but worthwhile, and certainly flavoursome. Well worth the asking price which is just a few quid. Drink now and over the next five years. 16/20 (August 2005) Retaste: A pale to mid-golden hue to this good value Chilean wine. A fresh and characterful nose, full-on apricot, quince, blood orange and barley sugar character. Nice botrytis. Clean, light and precise palate, nicely rounded, textured, with soft acidity affording a soft, succulent mouthfeel. Great flavour, with a bitter twist. This is excellent value for money. Drink now and over the next five years. 16/20 (April 2006)

Montes Alpha Merlot (Curicó) 1997: This wine has a deep and dark hue, with classic Merlot aromas of chocolate and spicy fruitcake, with accompanying rich black fruit scents. There are aromas of sensibly applied, moderately subtle French oak. On the palate, a typical glossy black fruit leads the way, with firm but smooth tannins, correct acidity and more well integrated oak. Superb. 16.5/20 (September 2000) Label

Viña San Pedro 35 South Sauvignon Blanc (Lontué) 2001: This is a pale wine, with just a hint of golden yellow. Although not rich in colour, there's still plenty of interest on the nose, with classic grassy, herbaceous Sauvignon aromas, with some richer pear and passion fruit character. Despite this it's fairly delicate on the palate, with moderate fruit combined with peppery, rocket-leaf acidity. A creamy twist on the finish. 15/20 (March 2002)

Cono Sur Pinot Noir (Chimbarongo) 1997: A pleasant ruby red colour, with a slightly bricky hue. Cherry aromas, with other red fruits, and some more characterful earthy/gamy hints on the nose. Slightly bitter cherry flavours, with nice acidity making it food friendly. A reasonable varietal example. 14/20 (September 2000)