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Burgundy: Odd Bottles

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Billaud-Simon Chablis Premier Cru Mont de Milieu 2002: A very recent auction purchase; a case bought at a bargain price. Green tinged, pale wine. Nice nose, lemon and talcum mineral notes. Good style, but rather shy. Firm palate, moderate concentration, although this builds through the midpalate to develop a grippy presence. Some vinosity, little notes of honey and complexity to come. On the endpalate it shows big structure, firm acidity, with a bone dry finish. What this needs is time in the cellar; another 2-3 years. 16/20 (July 2005) Retaste: This is pale, with the faintest greenish tint, and quite a classic nose, restrained, with lemon-edged chalky fruit. Fresh, quite a firm minerally and chalky seam, but with appealing texture as well. Nicely poised, quite firm, not quite as overtly structured and primary as when last tasted, no doubt benefited from the twelve months in the cellar. Good, with very good potential. 16+/20 (August 2006) Retaste: Another bottle just a few weeks on from the last. Appearance as previous, but with a good nose, all lemony-chalky-herby. Lovely freshness, although firm and nicely structured on the palate, with a slightly more obvious vinosity that goes with maturity in Chablis showing on the endpalate compared to last time. Getting better with every bottle, and should be absolutely fine in a year or maybe two, with plenty of drinking time thereafter, I suspect. 16.5+/20 (October 2006) Retaste: It is strange to think that it has been a couple of years since I took another from this case, as it seems much more recent than that to me. There is a lovely creaminess on the nose now, if that is possible, with notes of white pepper and some bright and evolving aromatics. A fine depth has evolved on the palate, a slightly oily, resinous quality coming through, and a lovely broad texture. Bright yet fleshy, still with a firm structure and an acid backbone. Just a touch of honeycomb and caramel on the finish. This is developing very nicely, although it will be a few more years yet before it peaks. A higher score - it looks as though my first impressions were the closest! 17+/20 (February 2008) Retaste: I have slowly worked my way through more than half a case of this wine now, and it has developed remarkably slowly during that time. An attractive nose today, with very dense, perhaps slightly tense fruit, with elements of leaf and nettle tempered by a harmonious, honey-cream edge. It seems a little lactic, and there are fleeting aromas reminiscent of yoghurt and cereal. Fresh on the palate, pure and cottony in texture, weighty and a touch smoky, with lots of substance and grip. Fine, gritty, with tinges of oatmeal and pineapple, and good length, this is a very good wine indeed. 17/20 (October 2009)

Billaud-Simon Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir 2000: Perhaps rather early for my palate to be opening Grand Cru Chablis, but I have a few of these so it is time to see what they are up to I think. A pale straw in the glass, fresh and bright. The nose is full of promise, the fruit clean and vaguely crystalline. There is an autumnal quality to it, rich with notes of soft, golden dessert apples and dried fruits, with nuances of almonds and vanilla. Later, little notes of orange peel and even cardamom come to the fore. The palate is rounded and fresh, full-bodied but nicely defined, firm with a bitter, mildly tannic grip beneath it all. Still very early on in its drinking window. Very good. 17+/20 (October 2009)

La Chablisienne Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaume 1996: Buttery pastry and smoke on the nose here, with fresh lemony scents battling against background hints of madeirisation. On the palate the fresh, lemony acidity comes through, and although the madeirisation is also there it remains a background feature. There's a lovely depth of flavour combined with classic crisp acidity - very drinkable, although clearly on the way downhill. From a half bottle. 15/20 (January 2002)

La Chablisienne Chablis Premier Cru Beauroy 1996: Some good fruit with buttery madeirised nuances. Nevertheless, some freshness to the fruit on the palate, although in the background there are notes of oxidation mirroring the nose. Nice body and sufficient acidity. Some spice and oak notes on the finish. On the way downhill. 15/20 (January 2002)

La Chablisienne Chablis Cuvée La Chablisienne 1996: This wine has a pale lemon yellow hue. The nose has classic flinty, mineral and smoke elements, so typical of Chablis. There are also vanilla and spicy oak aromas, suggesting some barrel maturation - not a universal practice in Chablis. The palate is clean, nicely rounded, with some buttery notes and white fruit. Pleasant acidity. The palate is a little disappointing - the nose promised more. Not one of the better wines I've had from this co-operative. 13/20 (June 2000) Retaste: A long time has passed since I opened a bottle of this, having kept a couple back to see how they developed. Good bright pale golden colour on inspection. The nose offers some promise, with classic honey and oatmeal tinged, mineral fruit. The palate initially impresses, with a creamy edge to more pleasant fruit, but then a disjointed, rasping acidity becomes apparent, which completely dominates on the endpalate, masking some attractive, underlying notes of maturity. Falling apart, especially on the finish and length. I really had to work hard to drink a glass of this, which was a shame as there were some pleasing characteristics to be found. 12/20 (July 2002) Retaste: Decent colour - some more depth than previously I think. Good fresh nose, and good vinosity on the palate. Holding together well; full, with good flavour, but with a simple, rustic feel. Not falling apart though, unlike the last bottle I tasted which was horribly angular and disjointed...goodness, was that really three years ago? A pleasant surprise. 15/20 (June 2005)

La Chablisienne Château Grenouille Chablis Grand Cru 1993: This wine has a rich golden hue, with a significantly deeper intensity of colour than the basic Chablis. The nose has buttery pastry, and fresh white fruit. Full bodied on the palate, with almost opulent layers of fruit, pastry and cream, but with good acidity which prevents the wine from becoming cloying. This wine has class. A beautiful finish, and excellent length. 17/20 (June 2000)

Labouré-Roi Chablis Premier Cru 2002: Tasted blind. Very fresh fruit on the nose, with a little capsicum and mineral notes. To me quite suggestive of Sauvignon Blanc but I was too far to the west. Fresh, dry, with firm acidity. Slightly harsh, woody tannins on the palate. Somewhat foursquare. Decent stuff at the right price though. 14/20 (February 2005)

Rene & Vincent Dauvissat Petit Chablis 2001: Good colour. A lovely nose, with barrel derived aromas of smoking butter, with a lemony freshness. Some good flavour on the palate, with plenty of flinty, mineral character overlaid with a note or two of green herbs. More barrel derived smoky notes, with an oily quality to the mouthfeel, and a very firm, lemony acidity; this is a wine which needs food. Nice with a delicate pie of smoked haddock and smoked trout, but really a bit too firm, acidic and austere. It's difficult to know how this wine will evolve - try again in a year. 13+?/20 (April 2004) Retaste: Pale, lemon-gold hue. Lean, minerally nose, a little buttery, with some nice notes of thyme, but the smokiness has faded. The acidity remains prominent, and problematic, on the palate here. The flavours don't balance out with the grippy structure and firm, lemony acidity. Stony and dry, but overly austere. Will this minor wine from a great producer ever give any pleasure? 13?/20 (September 2005) Retaste: The last of three bottles. Rather muted nose, but there are quite classic, subtle, slightly honeyed mineral aromas to be found. Certainly some positive development here. Much improved on the palate, less problematic, subdued acidity and more flesh to provide a better balance. This wine has certainly filled out and I'm glad to say finally does provide some pleasure. Attractive finish with a slightly bitter twang. Good. 15/20 (August 2006)

Dauvissat-Camus Chablis Premier Cru La Forest 1992: Clear, pale golden wine. Gorgeous nose, full of smoke, minerals and gravel, with plentiful honeycomb character and slightly buttery fruit. Quite light on entry, but fattens up somewhat through the midpalate. A good combination of stony fruit and firm, lemony acidity. Delicious stuff. 17+/20 (April 2002)

Daniel-Etienne Defaix Chablis Premier Cru Côte de Léchet 1996: Very cold when first served, with little bouquet. With warming up the nose develops some white fruit and mineral aromas, with a bare hint of mealy richness that one might expect. The palate has prominent acidity, with a somewhat hollow midpalate. It finishes better, with a flourish of rich, buttery honeycomb character. Pleasant in itself, although not of the quality I have come to expect from this top Chablis producer. Tasted at The Other Place, Liverpool. 14/20 (March 2002)

Daniel-Etienne Defaix Chablis Premier Cru Vaillon Vieilles Vignes 1988: Quite a pale lemon colour in the glass, with no suggestion of anything out of the ordinary. The nose, however, is lead by obvious yeasty, leesy, autolytic aromas which, frankly, are gorgeous. Somewhat oatmealy in character. The palate is medium bodied, with fresh yet subtle lemony acidity. A buttery, waxy, white fruit profile. The finish is deliciously clean, leading into a tremendous length. Stunning. 19/20 (July 2000)

Jean Durup Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 1997: Good colour. Clean fruit with a mineral element on the nose. Fairly tight through the midpalate, lean with good acidity. An intense, richer, honeyed edge becomes apparent through the endpalate and provides a pleasing roundness to the finish. This one needs some time in bottle. Tasted at L'Alouette, Liverpool. 16+/20 (October 2002)

Jean Durup Chablis Grand Cru Valmur 1988: A rich golden-yellow hue in the glass is typical of ageing Grand Cru Chablis. The nose carries cinder toffee and caramel aromas, together with some woody, Madeirised notes suggesting some oxidation. A hint of lemon curd is the only fruit characteristic that remains. The palate is just starting to fall apart, but it has a good, creamy texture and a nice body. There are light toffee notes, running through to the finish. On the way downhill, but still enjoyable. 16/20 (October 2000) Retaste: Lemon gold in colour. Nuts, caramel and cinder toffee on the nose. Less oxidation than the previous bottle. Good acidity gives a fresh lift to the palate, which has rich toffee and nut flavours, leading into a clean, creamed coffee finish. 16.5/20 (January 2001)

Domaine Jolly et Fils Chablis 2008: Bottled under DIAM closure, in itself a reassuring sign. As for the wine this has a pale, typically cool-climate hue. The nose is classically Chablis too, with a gentle minerality tinged with a sherbetty lemon zest, the minerally character working very nicely in tandem with a faint seam of reduction which I find really appealing. Delightfully fleshy on entry, although well judged, building on the midpalate where it shows quite some weight with a very expressive, mineral-tinged character. Lots of good sappy, gritty substance, and a clean, crunchy finish too. As an example of the appellation, this is certainly a good effort. 15.5/20 (November 2010)

Domaine de Vauroux Chablis Premier Cru Montmains 2001: From half bottles. A pale hue - to be expected. But a simply fabulous nose - so pure, and minerally, and yet so expressive, being loaded with crushed flint and rocks. A medium bodied and elegantly balanced palate, loaded with typicity in the form of flint and minerals. Who said Chardonnay was boring? Who says terroir doesn't exist? Just taste this - unique, delicious and, from this format, ready now. A second bottle a few weeks later was just as good - poised, but full and flavoursome, packed with liquid rocks. 17.5/20 (June 2004) Retaste: From a half bottle. Showing a richer, more golden hue than previous bottles. This wine retains the classic, expressive, smoky-stony mineral nose that I found a year ago, in tandem with a fine lemony streak. Lovely dry palate, firm and structured, with a nice vinosity, and minerally, rocky flavours mirroring those found on the nose, although not with the intensity found previously. Lovely, although firm structure and grip. This wine should continue to drink well for several years yet. 17/20 (August 2005) Retaste: From a half bottle. A fairly rich hue for Chablis, and a few little bubbles clinging to the inside of the glass, suggesting residual carbon dioxide, which I haven't noticed in previous bottles. I don't think it's refermentation. Appealing nose, showing notes of straw with a chalky, minerally, organic background. Fairly reserved at first on the palate, but then showing a little of the honeyed vinosity of previous bottles, but peppered with a very light carbon dioxide spritz. Very unusual, and detracting from its overall appeal somewhat. Nice, flinty finish here, but I do wonder if this wine will bounce back to what it once was? 16.5+?/20 (March 2006)

Vocoret Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots 1999: Usual pale colour. Not great richness on the nose, but good typicity, with mineral, lanolin and citrus elements on the nose. The palate is light-medium bodied, although good flavours mirroring the aromas on the nose. Good acidity, nicely balanced, and a good food wine, although a touch disappointing for the appellation. 15/20 (October 2002)

Domaine Gachot-Monot Côte de Nuits-Villages 1997: A vibrant red hue in the glass. Certainly has aromas of truffles on the nose, together with bags of red berry fruit and chocolate (chocolate truffles, perhaps?). A nicely textured palate, medium to full bodied, with good tannins and balanced acidity. There is a lovely quality of fruit that develops on the midpalate. The finish is strong. Another good value Burgundy. 15/20 (December 2000)

Gérard Julien Côte de Nuits-Villages 1996: A good colour, red with an elegant hint of mahogany. The nose has cherry fruit that almost seems confected, but not quite. More interesting, however, are the leafy, undergrowth, earthy complexities that are also present. The palate is full bodied and meaty, with nice tannins that are perhaps slightly coarse, yet in keeping with the body and texture of the wine. Good fruit, some oak, and a smooth finish. Pleasant length. Overall enjoyable. 15/20 (July 2000)

Domaine Thevenot-Le Brun et Fils Clos du Vignon Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits 1995: This wine has a simple red hue, with a degree of pink-orange bricking at the rim. The nose carries aromas of ripe, juicy Morello Cherries and blackberries, with some leafy, mushroomy notes. The palate initially seems thin, but once the wine has breathed for a while it develops an elegant texture, with soft, meaty tannins and balanced acidity. Some beetroot, cherry and earthy flavours, which persist through a peppery finish. Good length. 15/20 (December 2000)

Jaffelin 'Les Villages de Jaffelin' Fixin 1996: A good depth of colour suggests this wine may have something to offer, despite its lowly village status. Good blackberry and blackcurrant leaf fruit on the nose, with some oak. The palate is lovely - rich and flavoursome, it has ripe blackberry fruit with firm background tannins and balanced acidity. The texture is full and mouth filling. This wine isn't complex, but it is tasty and delicious. 15/20 (February 2001)

Domaine Rossignol-Trapet Gevrey-Chambertin 1998: A vibrant and fairly intense cherry red in the glass. The nose has lots of primary fruit aromas - cherries, strawberries and cranberries. There are also some hints of leather, and fresh, crispy bacon. Quite tannic on the palate, but not unbearably so. Packed with fruit, it has good acidity, and quite a big, chewy body. At first somewhat astringent on the finish, but this changes as the wine aerates. There was some length. Considering its youthfulness, I found this a very pleasant example of Gevrey-Chambertin. 15.5/20 (August 2000)

Domaine Tortochot Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corvées 1997: Quite a pale ruby red with a pink rim. On the nose attractive berry fruits mix with toasty oak. The palate has good body despite the pale colour, with berry and cherry fruits, and attractive oak. Most impressive are the silky, integrated tannins which, with correct acidity, afford a beautiful structure to the wine. Good finish, with quite good length. 16.5/20 (August 2000)

Baptiste Brunet Morey-St-Denis Cuvée Spéciale 1995: This is a well coloured wine, garnet with a pink-orange rim showing signs of maturity. Initially some berry fruits on the nose, but soon opening out to give prominent secondary aromas of mushrooms and leafy undergrowth. The palate is fairly full bodied, with powdery tannins and a firm, perhaps somewhat rustic texture. Some good blackberry fruit and acid balance, which persists through the finish into a pleasing length. 16/20 (April 2001)

Bernard Amiot Chambolle-Musigny 1994: This has to be the palest Pinot I have poured in a long time, with more than just a hint of tawny-orange age. The nose belies a mature wine, with aromas of rich undergrowth and organic compost. There are, however, persistent cherry and blackberry notes, together with a vein of toasty oak. A mature, softly textured palate, with good secondary characteristics, soft tannins and pleasing balance. It falls apart a little on the end palate, leaving a hot, alcoholic finish. Good wine, but in need of drinking up. 14.5/20 (March 2001)

Château de la Tour Clos Vougeot 1985: From a magnum. Proprietor François Labet owns a considerable section of the Clos Vougeot, 6 hectares in a T-shaped section along the northern edge, where the château is situated. A very mature hue here. Lovely maturity on the nose, with aromas of finely filed iron and bloody beef. Precise, minerally too. A good substance on the palate, broad with lots of structure, still showing a good tannic backbone too. Spicy, a touch grippy, with good flesh on its bones, this is a delicious wine for current drinking....although it still has the substance and structure to keep going in the cellar for now. Tasted at dinner in Bordeaux. 17.5/20 (March 2010)

Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru Aux Malconsorts 2001: Cathiard owns 4.5 hectares in 11 appellations, including 0.74 hectares in Malconsorts. This wine has a nicely maturing hue, with meaty fruit on the nose, and a wonderful and expansive perfume. Great definition on the palate, a vigorous style, mineral, with plenty of bright structure underpinning the body of the wine. Fine, maturing fruit, broad, overall defined and vigorous. Such life! And I am sure it will go for many years in the cellar yet. Tasted at dinner in Bordeaux. 17.5+/20 (March 2010)

René Engel Vosne-Romanée 1996: A good depth of colour is evident as the wine is poured into the glass. It takes several hours for it to open up, but when it does it gives aromas of cherry, blackberry and oak. There is a floral twist, but no great secondary characteristics. On the palate it is rich, supple and fleshy, with good fruit, and a firm backbone of tannin and correct acidity. There is just a touch of new oak. This wine has a lot of life ahead of it, and will give even greater pleasure in years to come. Good length. Delicious. 16.5/20 (January 2001)

Domaine De L'Arlot Nuits-St-Georges Cuvée Jeunes Vignes du Clos des Forêts St-Georges 1995: A classic Pinot Noir hue - a fairly pale red wine. Lovely perfumed nose, with violets, obvious farmyard notes and cherry fruit. A well structured palate, with soft, smooth tannins, correct acidity, and good cherry fruit. A touch of volatile acidity threatens to spoil the experience, but doesn't come through. Full bodied, alcoholic texture rather than delicate. Good, clean and slightly mouth-puckering finish. A little length. Overall good wine. 16/20 (July 2000) Retaste: With roast lamb. A pale hue, cherry-red, showing maturity at the rim. Good secondary character on the nose, still with a little cherry oak alongside the autumnal undergrowth. Full, sweetly textured, with a good Pinot silkiness. Good development – it’s four years since I last opened one. Firm, but lacks concentration, but it is the young vines cuvée. Enjoyable with this in mind. 16/20 (December 2004)

Alain Michelot Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Cailles 1994: A fairly pale red hue, with a touch of orange-pink at the rim depicting this wines age. An exciting nose, with forward red fruits, charcoal and smoke, toasty vanilla barrel notes, and hints of animal fur. A nicely bodied forepalate, with more fruit and smoke. Evident tannins and nicely balancing acidity. Fairly smooth texture, although the midpalate and finish seem a little harsh, with some increasingly obvious tannins and marked acidity. Good fruit though. This wine still has plenty of potential, and although very slightly rough around the edges, was very enjoyable. 15.5/20 (August 2000)

Henri et Gilles Remoriquet Nuits-St-Georges Les Allots 1992: The nose of this wine gives off aromas of wild strawberry, blackberry with some suggestion of hung game and undergrowth. There is also a disconcerting level of volatile acidity, a problem with the 1992 vintage. Smooth but not silky tannins on the palate, with marked, harsh acidity but with some pleasing flavours, of hung game and berry fruits. The finish is disjointed and alcoholic. Overall a poor wine. 11/20 (January 2001)

Henri et Gilles Remoriquet Nuits-St-Georges Premier Cru Les Damodes 1995: On opening, this wine immediately gives off an elegant, floral aroma. The wine is too cold, but as it warms the nose develops into a rich expression of cherries, black summer fruits, mushrooms and a hint of chocolate. The palate is a little disappointing in view of the initial promise. Somewhat harsh and chalky tannins are prominent. There are some good secondary characteristics developing, however, as nuances of mushrooms and earth sit alongside the fruit flavours. Pleasant acidity. Overall pleasant, but unimpressive. 14/20 (January 2001)

Faiveley Côte de Beaune-Villages 1997: This wine has a typical cherry-red Pinot hue when it meets the glass. The nose is initially very dumb, and seems slightly confected. With time more pleasant strawberry and particularly cranberry fruit aromas develop, followed by a hint of gaminess. A typical Pinot nose, although it doesn't promise anything exciting. The palate has medium body, with soft, round, chalky tannins. The wine has good balance, but seems short on fruit, and has some bitter oak, which shows up especially on the finish. Overall this wine is drinkable, but does not really excite me. 13.5/20 (May 2000)

Caves des Hautes-Côtes, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune Tête de Cuvée 1996: Quite a pale pink-cherry-red hue. The nose carries barely detectable fruit, with a hint of smokiness. With time a gamy, meaty quality develops. The palate is light-medium bodied, with soft tannins and somewhat harsh acidity. Confected notes spoil what fruit there is. The finish is harsh, bitter and sweet at the same time. A poor wine, lacking balance. 11/20 (June 2000)

Rodet Château de Mercey Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Beaune 2004: A very attractive colour, cherry red fading to a little pink at the rim. The nose also has remarkable appeal, showing a feral character to the cherry fruit, with a smoky, tobacco-chocolate character as well. Medium bodied on entry, although quickly revealing a rather naked and rustic structure; slightly jagged acidity, some soft tannins beneath. Certainly a little coarse, hot and spicy on the finish, but this may soften up with some time in the cellar. And the wine certainly has some character and weight. Good enough, maybe better with a year or two...or possibly one set to fall apart. 14+/20 (October 2006)

Jaffelin 'Les Villages de Jaffelin' Pernand-Vergelesses 1995: This wine has a lovely purple hue when poured. A nose to savour - black cherry fruit, a lick of new oak, and delicious roasted herb and leafy undergrowth complexity. The palate has a lovely body, and an almost seamless integration of the chalky tannins. The acidity is spot-on, balanced and pure. Superb fruit, and more roasted herbs. Certainly not rustic, an elegant drink, and superb value for money. 16.5/20 (April 2001)

Green's Corton 1964: A bottling by Green's. A slightly paler mahogany red than the previous wine. Not a particularly impressive nose, initially a flurry of blackberries, with a hint of spice, but this very quickly fades to leave just a hint of earthy compost. On the palate, however, a lovely silky texture and well integrated but firm alcohol make for a good wine. Subtle flavour profile, terminating in a warming finish. 16/20 (October 2000)

Louis Latour Corton Grand Cru 1993: A moderately coloured, slightly mahogany-tinged red wine. The nose initially gives aromas of red fruits, but with time more obvious secondary characteristics of mushroom compost and leafy undergrowth. The palate has an attractive weight, well balanced tannins and good acidity, but subtle fruit. There is a really obvious house style. Finishes with a spicy flourish. Unimpressive for a Grand Cru. 13/20 (October 2000)

Louis Latour Aloxe-Corton Premier Cru Les Chaillots 1995: A pale yet vibrant cherry red hue in the glass, fading to a pink at the rim. Thin, oily legs. The nose initially has primary strawberry and black cherry aromas, opening out in the glass to reveal subtle, perfumed scents of violets, some blackberry and a hint of oak. An attractive full-medium, creamily textured body, smooth although not quite silky tannins which are still fairly prominent. Correct acidity, with predominantly fruit flavours. There is a spiciness developing through the palate, culminating with a tingling, peppery finish. Good length. 16/20 (September 2000)

Jaffelin Savigny-lès-Beaune 1997: The wine had a good cherry red hue, with average depth of colour. The nose is pleasing, bringing to mind fresh, ripe strawberries with some cranberry notes. There are also some earthy, almost peaty notes. A medium body on the palate carries strawberry fruit flavour, with soft, dry tannins and 'subtle' acidity. A pleasant fruity Pinot profile, but if anything a little simple. On the finish, those tannins really show, leaving the mouth puckered. A lack of balance, but nevertheless easy drinking thanks to at least some acidity and pleasant fruit. 14/20 (June 2000)

Tollot-Beaut Chorey-lès-Beaune Piece du Chapitre 2003: Dark, opaque, deeply coloured centre, cherry red edge. Nose; earth and beetroot, roasted cherry, coffee, rather flashy. Great texture, lots of tannic grip, a huge tannic presence very typical of the vintage whether from Burgundy or anywhere else. Big grippy finish. Very ripe, textured, low in acidity but it has a good bite. Wall of tannins in the finish. Will be interesting to see how it goes, but the tannins are a worry. 15+/20 (March 2007)

Bouchard Beaune du Château Premier Cru 2002: Pale hue. Very aromatic nose; roasted cashew nuts probably reflecting toasted oak. Nice weighty presence on entry, with rather raw, grippy, wood-derived tannins apparent here and through the midpalate. Very dry, savoury, wood spice finish. There is a little honey-edged, lemony fruit poking out from beneath. Good, although simple and raw at present; I suspect this needs a year or two to integrate. 15+/20 (June 2005)

Albert Morot Beaune Bressandes Premier Cru 1986: A red brick colour, but less tawny than seen on last tasting. On the nose it seems more primary than previous, with sharp strawberry and red berry fruit. Aromas of game, leather and notes of decay and compost are only really evident with extended aeration. There are some notes of oxidation creeping in at the edges. Nevertheless the fruit is evident on the palate, underpinned by the necessary acidity. Old coffee grounds, undergrowth and game characteristics on the palate, with good body. Just an astringent, dried out finish. This bottle seemed less developed than another I tasted recently, but my opinion remains the same. 13.5/20 (November 2001)

Albert Morot Beaune Premier Cru Marconnets 1997: This wine has a darker, deep red colour, when compared to last weeks Teurons Premier Cru 1996 from this producer. The nose, despite this being a younger wine, has richer, more opulent blackberry fruit, mushrooms, dark chocolate, and a hint of toasty oak. The body is substantial, with a fat texture, grainy tannins and lovely balancing acidity. A blackberry and chocolate flavour profile. Somewhat tannic finish. A good wine, again with ageing potential. 16.5+/20 (November 2000)

Albert Morot Beaune Premier Cru Teurons 1996: On opening this wine an intense cherry aroma fills the room, and pouring it into the glass shows that this is a non-filtered wine, there being a fine, suspended sediment. It has a vibrant red hue. The cherry aroma is followed by strawberries and raspberries, and with aeration the wine develops more complex coffee and then smoked meat aromas. On the palate, fairly prominent tannins sit with quite tart acidity, and a good amount of red fruit. Medium bodied and a full texture. Finishes with fruit and tannin. A pleasant Burgundy very much in its primary phase, with a good structure for future development. A superb food wine. 16.5+/20 (November 2000)

Domaine Parent Beaune Les Epenottes 1998: A lovely, vibrant red colour. Lots of dense, black fruit on the nose, with notes of mushrooms and fine, dark chocolate, as well as a lick of new oak. These promising aromas lead to a palate rich in dense and chewy fruit, with firm, gently spicy yet unobtrusive tannins providing a good structure. Balanced acidity, and a hearty rather than elegant texture persist through to the dry, slightly savoury finish. It's a pleasure to find such good drinking at an affordable price from Burgundy. 16.5/20 (January 2002)

Jean-Luc Joillot Pommard Les Noizons 1996: Les Noizons is a good sized vineyard on the slope above the premier cru sites of Les Charmots and Les Pézerolles, on the Beaune side of the village. This is richly coloured, although with a very mature, dark, oxblood hue. It takes a little while to open up, at first revealing a rather stretched-out, macerated strawberry and undergrowth phase with a little boot polish, and then a more disjointed, alcohol-dominated nose. Appealing, somewhat plump and full character on entry, but quickly disrobing to reveal what rusticity it can muster. More roughened hemp than silk or velvet, with rather spiky acidity, but in its favour it has body and an attractively mature, meaty, beef stock character. A bit disparate though. Some length, although I'm not sure that's a good thing in this case. 14/20 (August 2006)

Domaine Pillot Pommard Premier Cru Rugiens 1999: Very light sediment, but no need for decanting; improved over a few hours in the glass. Good deep colour for Pinot, with an expressive nose of crushed strawberry-berry fruit, chocolate and peppery mushroom, with a little coffee twist. Full yet fresh style on the palate, with a little immature toffee flavour, although good fruit and a decent grippy tannic structure. Balanced, cotton-like texture. Nice potential here for further development over the next 3-4 years. 16.5+/20 (September 2005)

Alain Gras St-Romain 2000: A pale colour with a hint of peach. There are white fruits on the nose, with some mineral, gunflint notes, and subtle honey-oatmeal notes belying the use of oak. The palate has ripe citrus fruits with a touch of succulence. Firm acidity that will help this wine to age well. Well balanced oak influence. Tasty now, but will improve over the next 2-3 years. 16+/20 (April 2003)

Jaffelin 'Les Villages de Jaffelin' Auxey-Duresses 1996: Nice mahogany red fading to a pink-red rim. The nose has good cherry fruit with a vein of new oak. Soft, chalky tannins on the palate, well balanced, with obvious cherry fruit, and a slightly gamey streak. A rustic, slightly coarse texture, but a good fruit finish. Good value drinking. 15/20 (April 2001)

Domaine Colin-Deleger Meursault 1997: Quite a deep, golden colour. An interesting array of aromas on the nose - mixed ground nuts, oatmeal and smoky notes from the oak. Treacle sponge character, and also some furniture polish notes of volatile acidity. Fairly rich on entry, although very dry, and with some grip through the midpalate. Nutty, savoury and flavoursome. Marred by some slightly bitter acid on the finish. Perhaps suffering from mild cork taint, although not to the detriment of the nose. A second bottle was better - less open on the nose, less giving on the palate, but tauter, finer, more balanced, and with greater potential for the cellar. 16.5/20 (February 2003) Retaste: A mid gold colour. An oatmeal and lemon fruit nose. Nicely balanced palate, reasonable concentration, and a good texture with a slightly oily edge. Some development since my last tasting, in that it seems to have settled down somewhat, with a less flashy presence on the palate, and a little coffee and walnut maturity. Drink over the next five years. 15.5/20 (June 2004) Retaste: Mid-gold hue. Honey, oatmeal, nutty-mineral nose with a touch of white pepper. Full palate, structured, nuts and cream flavours. Vinous, balanced, with a firm, nutty finish and warm, creamy length. This is a good, grippy style which although approachable now still has some maturing to do before it gets to the stage where I really appreciate white Burgundy. 16.5+/20 (February 2005) Retaste: Two bottles consumed, from a case purchased at a knockdown price from Seckford's a few years ago. Rich, maturing, honey-gold. There are - more noticeable with the second bottle - some very early notes of Madeirisation here; baked apple, caramel and golden syrup characteristics, which at their current low level provide good interest, alongside the complex aromas of aniseed and liquorice. Dry but rich on the palate, delicious flavour, full bodied and structured, with a little grip. Very firm, and very good. This has shown a lot of development over the last year or two and if the second bottle was typical then this needs drinking up fairly soon. 16.5/20 (November 2005) Retaste: A rich, golden hue. Very evolved on the nose now, with notes of coffee grounds, honey and nuts, mushrooms and a hint of Madeirisation; I take this as par for the course in village Meursault of nearly ten years of age, adding interesting complexity, and not a symptom of the Burgundy oxidation debacle currently ongoing. This has lovely, mature complexity, like an aged Blanc de Blancs Champagne (unsurprisingly!). Good acidity, a touch prominent, but fresh. Gathers itself up to a full, rounded, precise crescendo on the palate, but then dies away very quickly, with a short finish. I really like this, but it is certainly time to drink up! 16.5/20 (April 2006) Retaste: Only a few months since the last bottle, so no need for a detailed note, other to say this shows great consistency, again a mature, minerally, slightly honeyed wine. No sign of the Burgundy oxidation debacle here. Very good. 16.5/20 (August 2006)

Château de Meursault, Meursault 1994: This wine has a rich, deep golden hue. On the nose restrained stone fruit aromas mix with a more obvious oaty, nutty, slightly toasty bouquet. With aeration and warming a hint of Madeirisation suggests oxidation, but it is not problematic. The palate has real class, with moderate fruit, a clean streak of acidity, and a woody, nutty savoury note. The complexities are particularly clear on the finish, which leads into an attractive, clean length. 16.5/20 (October 2000) Retaste: Lots of buttered toast and mealy oak on the nose, with a rich mineral seam. The oak seems more obvious than when tasted last year and I wonder if this may indicate some deterioration in the wine. Indeed, although there are good flavours of butter and toast, with macerated limes and lemons on the palate, with good but gentle acidity, I do feel the wine is a touch disjointed. There is still a background note of madeirisation. Drink up if you have any. 16.5/20 (January 2002)

Louis Latour Puligny-Montrachet Les Champgains 1997: Pale lemon gold. An interesting nose, with baked apple notes of oxidation in the background, with oatmeal and pastry character. Good body on the palate, nicely balanced, although that note of oxidation remains. Savoury fruit. Bitter twist on the finish. 15/20 (December 2002)

Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru La Maltroie 1997: This wine has a lemon and honey-gold appearance, with just a hint of green. At first it is very dumb and unyielding on the nose, but with time it offers up honeyed oatmeal with mineral and aniseed nuances. An elegant texture on the palate, but as with the nose it is tight and closed. Character builds in the mouth, developing a typical rich, oatmeal endpalate, with bacon fat leading into coffee and nuts on the finish. Balanced acidity. Very young, but has very good potential. Drink 2003 onwards. 16.5+/20 (April 2001)

Fontaine-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1998: This wine has a vibrant red hue, depicting its youth. The nose carries good primary aromas of blackberry, with an attractive layer of smoky, toasty oak. On the palate, an elegant medium weight has pleasant chalky tannins and well balanced acidity. Lots of primary red fruit flavours, with more of that sensibly applied oak. A fruit finish, and a fairly short length. A wine full of primary characteristics, which demonstrates that you don't have to wait years to enjoy good Burgundy. 16.5+/20 (October 2000)

Verget Chassagne-Montrachet 1993: A rich, deep golden wine. It initially gives off an aroma of crab apple, but this disappears, leaving nuts, wheat, oatmeal and just the faintest touch of butterscotch. The palate carries similar flavours, with fresh, almost racy acidity, and a firm body. Being critical, it's a good drink, but I can't help feeling it lacks focus. It has the richness I enjoy in white Burgundy, but lacks the elegance of other examples, although this can be a criticism laid against all Chassagne-Montrachet, not just Verget's. Firm finish. 15/20 (February 2001)

Hubert Lamy St-Aubin La Princée 1997: Quite restrained on the nose at first, but there is good but subtle complexity if you look for it. Lean lemon and grapefruit, a touch mineral and stony. Faint nuances of toffee and melon. On the palate what impresses most is the savoury, balanced structure. A fleshy white fruit texture, medium body, with lemon and grapefruit citrus acidity. A good, fleshy length. Good value and easy drinking. 15.5/20 (February 2001)

Gérard Thomas St-Aubin Premier Cru 1997: A fairly pale wine. A delightful nose, bearing in mind the outlay on this wine, of smoky, oily, oatmealy oak, together with some fresh honeydew melon aromas. The palate has an elegant balance, the medium body mixing with a fresh. lemony acidity, with a touch of grapefruit, and a rich yet not luscious texture. Lovely lemon and melon fruit, and sensibly applied oak, which sits in harmony with the palate, rather than overpowering it. Finishes very cleanly, with the oak showing through a little. A lovely example of affordable Burgundy. 16.5/20 (November 2000)

Verget Santenay Clos du Genet 1999: A moderately deep, lemon-gold colour. Oaky, caramel and maple syrup nose, with some buttery, cashew nut notes. Fresh palate, with lovely acidity, although with many oak-derived elements, such as butterscotch, in the flavour profile alongside more fruit-derived lemon notes. It may integrate in the cellar and provide nice drinking for the future, but at present this is only for fans of wood. 15.5+/20 (November 2005) Retaste: A fairly rich, golden hue. Nose rather more subtle, hazelnutty, oiled oak, but with a more refined, reserved style than the obvious oak showing when last tasted. But still a little moist ginger cake. Bone dry palate right through to the finish, but with an appealing texture beneath. Still showing profound, lemony acidity. Good for cutting through the richness of a creamy dish, and certainly a little more integrated than last year. 16/20 (August 2006)

Henri et Paul Jacqueson Rully Premier Cru Grésigny 1992: A lemon-gold colour. Lovely toffee and ripe melon on the nose, developing smoky, oily notes with time. There is also some good, mealy oak. Deliciously elegant weight on the palate, with a fine balance of lemony, smoky fruit and moderate acidity. A slight astringency provides an interesting backbone to the midpalate, but towards the finish the wine rounds out to develop a fairly rich texture, still with that smoky and lemony streak. It has a mouth-watering finish. Lovely stuff. 17.5/20 (November 2000)

Jaffelin 'Les Villages de Jaffelin' Rully 1996: Quite a vibrant red-purple hue. Blackberry pie and sweet, new oak on the nose. Pleasant fruit on the palate, with slightly prominent acidity and drying, chalky tannins. Quite a rustic feel to it, but quite good nevertheless. 15/20 (April 2001)

Rodet Château de Chamirey Mercurey 1996: A deep red-purple hue promises an enjoyable experience. The nose at first carries very primary aromas, strawberries followed by blackberries and other dark fruits. It later develops much more interesting aromas, of potent manure and a hint of leather. The palate has a lovely weight and considerable although not excessive extract. An attractive sheen of oak complements the Pinot fruit nicely. Good, although perhaps a little rustic, but very peppery tannins show through particularly on the finish, and the acidity is fine. 16.5/20 (September 2000)

Baptiste Brunet Pouilly-Fuissé Cuvée Prestige 1997: The nose is subtle and restrained. It has just a hint of honeycomb and mealy oak, but otherwise there is nothing to find. The palate is a touch fleshy, with sour green apple acidity. A mealy edge. Overall it is sharp, thin and unyielding, although it seems a little better with food. A coarse finish, a touch bitter even. An unripe and unappealing example of this famous appellation. 13/20 (March 2001)

Domaine des Deux Roches Mâcon-Davayé 1999: Pale in colour, giving no suggestion of the richness that is to follow. The nose has aromas of peaches and pears, with tropical pineapple notes. Such is the intensity and sweetness of the aromas that hard-boiled fruit drops come to mind. Medium weight on the palate, with good balance. It is packed with sweet yet slightly mineral pineapple fruit, with a touch of lemon curd. More slate and mineral nuances on the finish. Deliciously easy to drink. 16.5/20 (February 2001) Retaste: The nose has a combination of fruit and style, with fresh, mineral aromas sitting comfortably with notes of pineapple and stone fruit. The palate is dry, has fine weight, with well balanced acidity and good fruit. It's not quite as exuberant as the 1999, but it has more style, with slightly mealy, mineral aspect to the character. 16.5/20 (February 2002)

Domaine des Deux Roches Saint-Véran Les Chailloux 1998: This wine is initially very closed on the nose, but soon opens up to reveal slightly honeyed stone fruit. The palate remains muted, with soft acidity and medium body at best, with a mix of mineral and peach fruit flavours. Certainly more subtle than the Mâcon-Davayé from this producer, but pleasant. 15/20 (March 2001)

Louis Latour Mâcon-Lugny Les Genièvres 1997: This is a pale wine, with appealing tropical fruit subtleties on the nose, and hints of a buttery richness. Quite a fleshy texture on the palate, cut through by a grapefruit and green apple acidity. None of the tropical fruits noted on the nose here, but it has a pleasant weight. The acidity dominates the finish. 14/20 (March 2001)

Marcel Lapierre Morgon 2009: From the hands of the late Marcel Lapierre, this wine has a dark yet vibrant character in the glass, the aromatics possess brilliant fruit, fresh and beautifully poised on the edge of ripeness. There are hints of blackcurrants and a raspberry tartness, intense and concentrated but not sweet or creamy. It has a perfumed, floral, crunchy-skin style which lends it a wonderful vibrancy. There is some super savoury-edged fruit, an intense backbone of vibrant acids, and overall a supple, lively, vigorous and vibrant midpalate leading into a linear, crunchy finish. Super stuff. 16.5/20 (January 2012)

Blasons de Bourgogne Crémant de Bourgogne 2002: This is one of those Sélection de la Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin bottles that you see from time to time, often in French supermarkets. There is a little hint of sunset-pink at the base if the light catches it right, but otherwise this has a remarkably pale hue, not quite water-clear but close, and with a surprisingly fine bead. Fresh, slightly grapey, slightly chalky, but little else on the nose really. Full, slightly foamy-creamy on the palate, with a good fresh acidity. It is unfussy, pleasant and cleanly composed, but has a rather perfumed character reminiscent of Edinburgh Rock confectionery. It is alright, but overall I don't really warm to its style. 14.5/20 (July 2007)

Vincent Girardin Cuvée Saint-Vincent Bourgogne 1997: A rich, yellow-gold hue in the glass. On the nose, delightful oatmeal and cinder toffee notes are combined with attractive white fruit aromas, and a hint of lemony acidity. The palate is crisp and clean, with more oats, good fruit and a hint of toffee. There is a creamy suggestion to the texture, nicely balanced with the crisp acidity, which pervades through to the finish. A lovely example of the quality basic Bourgogne can achieve, and good value too. 16+/20 (October 2000)

Château de Meursault 'Clos du Château' Bourgogne Chardonnay 2002: Pale gold. Notes of nuts, dessert apples and ripening melons on the nose. A fine palate follows. Classic style, with fine acidity and good balance. The texture build through the midpalate and it shows some grip here too. This has quite a bit of substance. This is very good for the appellation. 16/20 (May 2005)

Rodet Bourgogne Pinot Noir de Vieilles Vignes 1996: In the glass the wine has a vibrant, cherry red hue, and slow to form legs that at least promise something. The nose is initially earthy undergrowth accompanied by aromas of animal hair, with strawberry and cherry nuances. The palate has good body, with evident tannins and a pleasing texture. The acidity makes for good balance. There is a mouth-watering, meaty savouriness to the flavour profile, with those drying tannins evident on the finish. Little length. Overall quite enjoyable. 15/20 (May 2000)