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Bordeaux: Odd Bottles

More than any other wine, my experience of Bordeaux is concentrated much more in tastings I organise or attend, rather than in the bottles I pull from my cellar. This is especially true when looking at the left bank communes of St Julien, Pauillac and Margaux. Click to locate stockists.

Chateau Haut-Lagrange (Pessac-Léognan) 2000: Vibrant colour with moderate depth. Ripe plum and black cherry fruit on the nose, with elements of violets. These are nicely carried through onto the palate, where there is a pleasing, fleshy texture, some extract and low acidity, providing for an obvious, upfront mouthfeel. There is little in the way of tannin and overall it seems loose-knit and lacking in focus. A pleasant mouthful though. 16/20. (April 2004)

Chateau Le Sartre Blanc (Pessac-Léognan) 2002: A property owned by the Perrin family of Carbonnieux. A pale hue. Fresh, aromatic, a little curdy. But a clean palate, quite correct, with light white fruit notes. There is a little roundness. It is very youthful. Some character to the finish, which is short. This is decent, with some potential. 14+/20 (November 2004)

Chateau Le Sartre (Pessac-Léognan) 2001: Another wine from the Perrin family of Carbonnieux. A very youthful hue. Rather a lightweight red fruit nose. Medium bodied, leafy fruit, and some tannins for backbone. A decent concentration, but a rather medicinal red fruit finish. I prefer the white. 14/20 (November 2004)

Vieux Chateau Gaubert Blanc (Graves) 2000: This has a rich, ripe, quite golden colour, followed up by an open, expressive nose, packed with aromas of crushed rocks and minerals, with notes of honey and acacia, and then waxy furniture oil. The palate is full, full of honey-edged white fruits with a mineral component. There is a firm grip and fresh, balanced acidity, which sits nicely with the very minor background notes treacle sponge notes and butterscotch. A savoury finish, and a good, vibrant length with a touch of grapefruit. 16.5/20 (April 2004) Label

Chateau Loudenne (Médoc) 2005: A dark appearance. A fine nose of dark, smoky fruit. Really rather complete and very nicely balanced on the palate, showing some fine purity of fruit and some elegance. It has intensity too. Moderate acidity, ripe backbone of tannins totally in keeping with the rest of the wine, just turning up the volume a little on the finish. A nicely composed wine, quite rich, with good short to mid-term potential. 16.5+/20 (May 2007)

Chateau Patache d'Aux Cru Bourgeois (Médoc) 1995: A vibrant red-purple wine. Ripe blackcurrant fruit on the nose, with subtle nuances of smoke and coffee. A light to medium body, still with fairly prominent tannins. Good, rich fruit, balanced acidity, and a smooth texture. Rich fruit foremost on the finish, with a flourish of alcohol. Drinkable now, this wine still has some development to do yet. From a half-bottle. 14.5+/20 (November 2000)

Chateau Tour-Prignac (Médoc) 2005: Moderate depth of colour, fairly dense rim. The nose doesn't really speak of Bordeaux, but talks much more of mint and vanilla, and there is clearly a huge amount of oak applied here, possibly American. A soft and attractive entry, with moderate weight, and a nice sour berry and plum skin character, although it is rather overshadowed by a somewhat bitter structure. A little leathery and cedary, and a dry and sour finish. 14/20 (May 2009)

Chateau Tour-St-Bonnet (Médoc) 1997: Moderate depth of colour, showing maturity. Slightly woody, red cherry fruit. Pretty lean palate, rather short on texture, and showing some tannin. Touch of oiliness to the mouthfeel, probably barrel derived, but with a hollow midpalate, lacking presence and flavour. Short, chalky finish, infused with a mild flurry of tannin. This wine shows, once again, that this is a vintage beset by pitfalls for the purchaser. 12/20 (June 2005)

Chateau Bel Orme Tronquoy de Lalande (Haut-Médoc) 2003: From a dinner at the château with the Quie family. A bright hue on inspection, with a rich but fresh fruit nose. A very firm style on the palate, which is naturally very rich in tannins, but it doesn't have the heavyweight composition of some 2003s. There is also plenty of good acidity for the vintage, which is a nice surprise. This can be approached now, but has a little potential for the cellar yet. 15.5+/20 (April 2008)

Chateau Bernadotte (Haut-Médoc) 2003: An estate purchased by May-Eliane de Lencquesaing in 1997, thus bringing it under the wing of Pichon-Lalande. For those interested, Bernadotte was a marechal under Napoleon, before taking the throne to rule in Sweden. It is very youthful on inspection, glossy, perhaps not as dense as some other wines from this vintage I have experienced. An exotic nose, deep and macerated cherry fruit, sweet with smoky oak and pepper. Clean, moderately concentrated, with a firm vein of ripe tannins immediately apparent. Not as flashy or fleshy as some 2003s. Good balance for the vintage, firm tannins on the end. A little hot here. Good though. 16/20 (May 2007)

Chateau La Rose de France (Haut-Médoc) 1995: Quite a dense purple hue. Nose is initially all wood, but over the first hour the bouquet opens up to provide some nice blackcurrant fruit and a hint of black pepper. By the end of the bottle there are attractive roasted vegetable aromas. The palate has nice weight, with some pleasant fruit but some slightly heavy, somewhat characterless and very drying woody notes. Good balance of tannin and acidity, however, and an unsurprising finish. Acceptable drinking. 13.5/20 (June 2000)

Chateau Soudars Cru Bourgeois (Haut-Médoc) 1997: A good red-purple hue. The nose has pleasant smoky, blackcurrant fruit and some butterscotch oak. The palate is a little thin, with green, hard tannins. There is some good, sweet fruit, however, with sensible oak. Medium bodied. Quite a tannic finish. Reasonable effort for the 1997 vintage, but needs more time in bottle. 13.5/20 (November 2000)

Chateau Lalande-Borie (St Julien) 2001: Youthful hue, good concentration, thin pink rim. Smoky black cherry nose, with a sweet, honey-roast nut sideline. Lovely presence of fruit, again dominated by black cherry, with a very slightly creamy mouthfeel. A seam of tangible extract, medium body, a gentle presence of ripe tannin to give a little backbone, and good acidity. Flows across the palate. This is very good. For drinking now and over the next five years. 17/20 (June 2005)

Chateau La Gurgue (Margaux) 2004: A nice depth of colour here, but on the nose a very primary layer of fruit, with some honeyed oak. Quite softly composed on the palate, but underneath there is grip and acidity. Towards the end it sows a very nice structure. Good substance and style here. A very impressive effort, which certainly has good potential. 16.5+/20 (February 2008)

Chateau Le Bon Pasteur (Pomerol) 2007: Crunchy, perfumed red fruits on the nose, with a little touch of chalk and blackberry too. A reserved texture and composition on the palate, with perfumed fruit like the nose, nice weight, and good background tannins. A nice style for a weaker vintage, with a lot of grip in the finish. Good. 15.5-16+/20 (April 2009)

Clos de Clocher (Pomerol) 2005: Rather reserved on the nose, but there is a refined purity which I am coming to associate with the vintage. With a little more time it opens out to reveal an even greater quantity of fresh fruit. Precisely textured palate, very fine, with great definition through the midpalate. Lovely structure beneath it all. This is very good indeed, with fine potential. 17.5+/20 (May 2007)

Chateau La Croix du Casse (Pomerol) 1996: A deep red colour. The nose has toasty oak, with ripe but crunchy black fruits, especially black cherries, and minerals. The palate at first seems to be lacking in body, a touch thin and dominated by tannins. The wine really opens up with time in the glass, however, developing a good body, a pleasing although not luscious or overly rich texture, and some mineral-edged fruit. The tannins still have quite a presence on the endpalate and finish, although the wine develops sufficient character to carry these along. There are some savoury notes and hints of emerging complexity. 16+/20 (June 2002)

Fleur de Boüard (Lalande de Pomerol) 2003: An estate purchased by Hubert de Boüard de Laforest of Angélus in 1998, previously known as Lafleur de Georges. This has a dense and serious hue, vibrant at the rim. Dense and smoky oak, deeply concentrated nose, youthful and flashy. Well delineated, fresh, ripe and creamy, a little confit fruit in keeping with the vintage, with ripe tannins well covered by the texture. Firm and very attractive. This is impressive, all the components coming together very nicely. 17+/20 (May 2007)

Chateau Viaud (Lalande de Pomerol) 2000: Dark hue, showing early maturity. Burly nose, dark black fruits, smoky cherries, but restrained. Balanced palate, fluid, tannins in the background. Shows good grip. Some texture, ripe plum flavour, nice extract. Firm, upright palate. Good. 15+/20 (June 2005)

Clos des Jacobins (St Emilion) 1998: Good colour, still a hint of youth. A nose of cashew nuts, tart berries, plums and fruitcake. Quite firm and structured on the palate, with plenty of grip and a slightly bitter presence of tannins. But there's also a sweetness and a texture which is apparent from entry onwards, which gives plenty of pleasure. Nice, sweet, chocolate and raspberry edged finish and a decent length. I like this. Drink now and over the next eight years. 17+/20 (January 2005)

Chateau Guerin Bellevue (St Emilion) 1997: A moderate colour intensity, with an attractive mahogany-red hue. The nose is quite beguiling, and classically claret. Hints of smoke, raspberry fruit, a lick of pencil lead and a streak of vanillin (American) oak. During the evening develops a meaty, bacon-like aroma. The palate doesn't quite follow through, with a light body, low tannin and perhaps a little too much acidity. More meaty flavours. Drinkable, but not exciting. 13.5/20 (June 2000)

Chateau Haut-Plantey Grand Cru (St Emilion) 1996: An attractive red-purple hue. The nose has blackcurrant fruit, toffee barrel notes, and nuances of ground coffee. Unfortunately it is a little light on the palate, perhaps suggesting excessive yields. There is a distinctive goût de terroir about it, however, the sandy soils expressed quite nicely. Good fruit, good tannins which coat the mouth, and correct acidity. Pleasant, light-weight claret. 14.5/20 (August 2000)

Chateau Plaisance Grand Cru (St Emilion) 1998: Gorgeous aromas on opening, the nose full of smoke, smouldering charcoal and charred embers, on a cushion of ripe black fruit. Within minutes it clamps right down, leaving mere suggestions of these aromas. Fine texture and dry, dominant tannins on the palate. Good fruit and correct acidity. A wine on the way up, this requires another three or four years before I dare broach another. 17+/20 (April 02) Retaste: Three years since I opened one of these. The nose has really settled down, now showing hickory woodsmoke, with notes of blackcurrant, plums, minerals and roasted meats. The palate has really evolved, with now perfectly integrated tannins, showing a ripe, succulent backbone with maturing fruit. Medium body and texture, showing rather angular acidity on the endpalate, with a gentle coating of tannin. A little short too, to be critical. Nevertheless, a captivating nose and very good wine. 16.5+/20 (June 2005)

Vieux Chateau L'Abbaye Grand Cru (St Emilion) 1997: More closed than many other clarets from the 1997 vintage I've tried recently, this wine opened out only on the second day. A youthful nose, lots of crunchy blackcurrant fruit with a sandy, mineral character. Dry tannins are just a touch dominant on the palate of this wine which will benefit from another year or so in bottle. Nevertheless, ripe and tasty fruit with soft acidity make it a pleasure to try now. 15.5/20 (August 2001)

Chateau Les Alberts (Lussac-St-Emilion) 1997: A pale, orange-red wine. On the nose there is smoky, buttery fruit. Fairly typical sandy red fruits on the palate, with savoury tannins and adequate acidity. Medium body, leading into a clean finish. Not a great wine, but a nice example of the appellation. 15/20 (March 2001)

Chateau Plaisance (Montagne-St-Emilion) 1997: A touch of maturity evident on the colour, with a faint tawny tinge to the wine. The nose has some classic blackcurrant notes when served cool, with some cedar and pencil-shaving aromas, but also a fairly dull note suggestive of earth and undergrowth. Medium bodied, with some very peppery flavour, but a weak structure. Fairly bold acidity, contributing to that peppery sensation, with some tannins apparent towards the finish, make for a clumsy rather than elegant wine. Served at cooler temperatures this was a little more drinkable. 12/20 (January 2002)

Chateau Teyssier (Montagne-St-Emilion) 1997: A vibrant and dense colour, the latter being atypical for the vintage. Lots of bramble and blackberry fruits on the nose. On the palate, the big, tannic backbone suggests that this wine still needs time. There is a good amount of fruit and some spicy oak which has yet to integrate. Good acidity. There is a touch of astringency through the midpalate, becoming more noticeable on the finish. Another nice wine from the '97 vintage, and although it seems a little angular and awkward at present it may settle down with time. 15/20 (July 2001)

Chateau La Croix Canon (Canon-Fronsac) 2000: Expressive nose, with Christmas cake and ripe plum, a little sooty, with some toasty oak. Full, balanced, textured, dark plummy fruit. Showing good structure, with some great ripe tannins in the background. But approachable now. Shows the strength of this vintage. 16+/20 (June 2005)

Chateau Fontenil (Fronsac) 2007: Quite open and accessible on the nose here, a touch herbaceous though, although with some sweet red fuits. A nice substance to it on the palate, gently textured, broad and sweet, with more juicy red fruits. There is a good backbone of acidity too. Still in a very primary phase. Good. 15-15.5+/20 (April 2009)

Chateau d'Aiguilhe (Côtes de Castillon) 2004: Ripe and plush fruit here. Dark, smoky, concentrated and no doubt immediately appealing. A bit jammy in style rather than just ripe, round and plump, although there is a decent grip underneath it all. Decent acidity too, and it is quite firm underneath. Simple but superfically very flattering composition. Good. 15/20 (April 2007)

Chateau Carignan Cuvée Prestige (Premières Côtes de Bordeaux) 1996: A rich looking purple-red, with moderate colour intensity. Initially there is new oak with red and black fruits on the nose. This develops into classic cabernet blackcurrant with a layer of varnished oak. A lovely weight, and quite creamy. Nice unobtrusive tannins, and good balance. Blackcurrants and slightly spicy oak. Smoky notes. The finish is pleasant but short. 15/20 (July 2000)

Chateau Côte Montpezat (Côtes de Castillon) 1998: An attractive red-purple colour. The nose has rich blackcurrant fruit, a touch of cedar and some toasted oak. Fairly hard tannins on the palate, with moderate fruit and good balance. This one is quite good, but it needs a little more time to come around. 15/20 (March 2001)

Chateau Côte Montpezat (Côtes de Castillon) 1997: Drunk over the course of two days, the nose was initially dominated by pencil lead and cedar aromas, despite the encépagement being predominately Merlot. By the following day the restrained, black fruit had opened out to give rich blackcurrant aromas, with some toasted oak. The greenness had disappeared from the palate, leaving a medium bodied, fruity wine with well balance tannins and acidity. Good, easy drinking Claret. 15/20 (December 2000)

Chateau le Grand Moulin (Premières Côtes de Blayes) 1999: A freebie thrown into the box by the proprietor of Perardel (Calais) when I last loaded up with Weinbach and Deiss. Nice colour, showing some maturity. Cedary, red berry fruit nose, with just a little acetic character to it. Light body, cedary fruit and a bitter toffee note. Fades on the finish. Drink now (if you have to). 13/20 (February 2005)

Les Moulins de Coussillon (Côtes de Castillon) 1998: This has a rich, glossy sheen, and a nose of weedy, leafy, ripe blackcurrant fruit. It has moderate acidity with a firm backbone of integrated tannins, and full, almost fatly textured fruit. Very stylish. 15/20 (May 2001) Label

Château Peybonhomme Les Tours (Premières Côtes de Blaye) 2000: A vibrant red colour. Classic right bank on the nose, with a sandy-mineral note, sandalwood and cedar aromas, crunchy blackcurrant and plummy chocolate notes. Good weight on the palate, although with a fairly hard texture. Plenty of acidity and some ripe, firm tannins, alongside ripe spicy fruit and more of that cedar and sandalwood. Dry finish. It closes down towards the end of the bottle - open and drink, or keep for a year or three. 15.5+/20 (August 2002) Label

Chateau Puyanché (Côtes de Francs) 1998: A classic Merlot dominated blend, with crunchy blackcurrant fruit on the nose, rolled tobacco leaves and a streak of oak. Good mineral and tobacco notes on the palate, over a layer of weedy blackcurrant and summer fruits. Slightly sooty tannins but good acidity. An elegant wine for the money. 15/20 (May 2001) Label

Dourthe No.1 Bordeaux Blanc 2002: A 100% Sauvignon Blanc cuvée. Very pale. Soft, plump white fruits on the nose, with a green vegetable edge. Clean, rounded, slightly creamy palate, with a little spritz on entry, and some decent crystalline fruit. Rather dull, hollow midpalate though, before more tingly acidity shows on the finish. Fair. 13.5/20 (December 2004)

Chateau Feuillas (Bordeaux) 1997: Quite a reasonable red-purple colour, and an attractive nose of smoky, raspberry and blackberry fruit, and as hint of toasty oak. Watery on the fore and midpalate, with some fruit and quite nice tannins, but it never develops enough body for me, and lacks interest. Weak finish. 12/20 (November 2000)

Chateau de la Garde (Bordeaux Supérieur) 2005: An old favourite but in a new and highly successful vintage, this wine has a dark and concentrated colour. There follows a rather hard nose, with dark fruits, cedar and smoke. The palate is fresh, stony-lean, well structured with good tannins and a nice extract leading into an attractive and drying finish. A good length too. Attractive, classic, and fairly priced I think. 16.5/20 (June 2008)

Chateau de la Garde (Bordeaux Supérieur) 2000: This wine really needs an hour after pulling the cork to show its best, so bear that in mind if you pop one. In the glass it displays a good depth of colour, and fires off aromas of powerful cassis fruit that fill the room. There are enticing notes of minerals, sand, cedar and oak too. This has a very classic style. The palate has piles of sweet fruit, with a clear, cedar and mineral edge to the fruit. A good lick of tannin on the endpalate, and moderate acidity. This is delightful, and the successful 2000 vintage has fostered a real triumph for this property, owned by Dutchman Ilja Gort. Drink over the next five years. 16.5/20 (March 2004) Label

Chateau de la Garde (Bordeaux Supérieur) 1996: Moderate red colour. Slightly austere nose of blackcurrants and charred oak. Pleasant light to medium body, with ripe, somewhat chalky tannins, and a good balance. Raspberry fruit on the finish. Inoffensive quaffing stuff, but nothing more. 14/20 (January 2001)

Chateau de Parenchère (Bordeaux Supérieur) 1998: Cedary blackcurrant and raspberry on the nose here. A nicely structured wine, with chalky tannins and good acidity. Medium bodied, with blackcurrant leaf flavours and pebbly, mineral notes. Clean finish. 14/20 (March 2001)

Chateau de Parenchère (Bordeaux Supérieur) 1997: This wine had a good ruby-purple colour and good legs. On the nose blackcurrant fruit with a hint of cassis richness. There are elements of smoke and a stony, mineral complexity. A dollop of oak backs it up. The palate is medium bodied. Soft tannins, low acidity, nice fruit and peppery oak. Some mineral notes again. Slightly harsh finish, quite alcoholic as it disappears. Little length, but quite enjoyable. 15/20 (May 2000)

Chateau Carsin (Cadillac) 1998: There is some botrytis on the nose, together with orange peel fruit. Simple but appealing. The palate is very nicely textured with creamy orange fruit, but it builds weight in the mouth developing a fat and oily character. Sharp, somewhat disjointed acidity, with a citrus and pineapple freshness help balance this out. There is also an unusual powdery edge to the texture. Interesting, but certainly not one to buy again. 13.5/20 (May 2001)

Chateau Haut-Bergeron (Sauternes) 1999: A classic deep golden-orange colour, and the nose carries handsome aromas of oranges, marmalade, quince, and a little pleasing botrytis character. The palate is fresh and tasty, loaded with typical flavours. The texture is good, with a chalky edge although this doesn't detract from the experience. Low acidity. 15/20 (February 2002) Label

Chateau Monteils (Sauternes) 2003: A Cru Bourgeois property I am unfamiliar with. Pale colour for such an exalted vintage. A little botrytis on the nose, with fresh, sweet, white fruits. Moderate weight on the palate, very fresh, with decent acidity and clean candied fruit flavour. Just a touch of fatness to the texture. A lightweight, for current drinking if you are desperate. 13.5/20 (January 2005)