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Sherry 2004: Conclusion
Over the past couple of weeks this series has looked at the wines of four great Sherry producers. All four turn out some remarkable wines, with the Lustau Almacenista range being my top tip for finesse and excellence in dry Sherry which is widely available. Gonzalez Byass produce a number of very good Sherries, both dry and sweet. I found the Valdespino range a little weak when it came to the dry wines, although the sweeter styles, even the commercial Cream Sherry, were very good indeed. Hidalgo was good, sometimes very good, across the board, and I would like to sample more of this firm's range, especially the other Napoleon wines and rarer Sherries.
Sherry is, undoubtedly, a challenge for the uninitiated. It has a unique profile of aroma and flavour, which makes the wine seem almost of another world to those encountering it for the first time. In addition, consider the fact that many wine drinkers of my age cut their teeth on ripe Aussie Chardonnay that seemed to taste of sunshine more than anything else. Wine today, for the mass market at least, needs to be clean, fruity and free of what many would regard as faults such as volatile acidity and other unusual characteristics. Sherry does not fit this pre-conceived notion of what is fit to drink. Depending on the style, it is more likely to resemble baked earth, spices, cured meats, nuts, sea salt, raisins, woody musk, iodine, dried leaves, toffee or even the certain vegetal-like axle grease that characterises Pedro Ximénez.
I firmly believe in training my palate to accept new foodstuffs. I confess I did not enjoy my first ever taste of dry Sherry, which was a Valdespino fino if I remember right, sampled many years ago. The sweeter styles I have never had any issue with, but it took several attempts before I began to see the positive attributes of dry Sherry, and to subsequently enjoy them. This is natural for all foodstuffs that don't have immediate appeal on the palate - foodstuffs that aren't obviously laden with sugar, fat, protein, or all three! An appreciation of more unusual flavours, to which we have not become accustomed in childhood - olives is one that springs to mind in my case - requires a little work, tasting and retasting. Sherry is a similar case. But it is worth persisting, because once the door is opened, a whole range of new experiences awaits. Sherry has a great heritage; a range of styles, some great producers, and some truly memorable wines. I'm glad I persisted.
Oh, and just in case you are curious, Santa did imbibe when he visited our house - a no doubt hastily glugged glass of Bodegas Toro Albalá Don PX Gran Reserva 1972. Delicious! (27/12/04)
Sherry 2004
This series focuses on a small group of the best Sherry producers. I tasted all these wines in November 2004. Articles in this series include:
