Home > Producer Profiles > Spanish Profiles > CVNE

CVNE

No examination of the old guard of Rioja would be complete without the inclusion of the Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España, more commonly known as CVNE. Founded in 1879 by two brothers, Eusebio and Raimundo Real de Asúa, the firm has remained in the hands of their descendants, currently in the fifth generation. The wines of this venerable bodega are popular, both on the home market and abroad, although it should be stressed that this is no family resting on its laurels. CVNE has long been an innovator in Rioja, the family readily embracing advances such as estate-bottling and the extensive use of stainless steel, a material found in abundance in the three CVNE wineries.

Eusebio and Raimundo established their new bodega near the railway station in Haro, where today many of the leading estates, such as Muga and Viña Tondonia, are to be found. CVNE maintains its presence in this historic part of town, but over the years the family have consolidated their position in Rioja with the development of two other winery sites; firstly the Viña Real site, an imposing, modern construction, and at the Contino estate, a traditional country house with 16th Century cellars. They also own sufficient vines to supply more than half of their needs, a remarkable level of vineyard ownership for Rioja.

Cuné and the Haro Winery

The distinction between CVNE and Cuné is an academic one, although it does seem to cause confusion from time to time. CVNE is the name of the original company, of which Cuné is a corruption which has entered common usage, and which is also used by the company as a brand name. The Cuné range is just one of several lines produced at the original Haro winery, and comprises a white, rosé, red crianza and also reserva. This is very much a commercial line, but it is of historical interest as the origins of the red Cuné Crianza can be traced back to the first wine produced here by Eusebio and Raimundo, which they sold as Cuné Clarette, after the claret of Bordeaux. Nevertheless, the range is today far surpassed by other wines vinified here.

CVNE The Haro Winery is also home to Monopole, a white Rioja made from Viura. At the time of its introduction in 1915 this was a revolutionary wine, although it started life in a slightly different guise to the one commonly encountered today; it was originally a Viura-dominated blend, fermented in steel, but there is now a barrel-fermented version also, and both have evolved into cuvées of 100% Viura. There is also Corona, which might perhaps be described as rather less successful than Monopole; this is a sweet wine, also 100% Viura fermented in American oak. It is described as being lightly botrytised, and having never tasted I cannot comment on this; I would think, however, that the sweetness is largely due to the racking, chilling and refrigeration employed to arrest fermentation.

Although these wines are of no doubt great commercial importance, CVNE has drawn on its extensive vineyard holdings, which top 600 hectares, to establish a reputation as one of the leading producers of red wines in the region, both in traditional and modern styles. Two of these wines are produced at the Haro winery; the Imperial Rioja Gran Reserva, which heads up a range of wines under the Imperial designation, and the Real de Asúa Rioja. The latter is a reserva first produced in 1994, the name honouring the founding brothers; it is a blend of 95% Tempranillo and 5% Graciano from 40 year-old vines in favoured sites in Villalba and Haro. Selection of fruit occurs at manual harvest and subsequently, following transport in small protective crates, on a sorting table. The wine is fermented in oak, followed by a five week cold-maceration with pumping to maximise extraction of colour and tannins, before gravity feed into new French oak. The finished product can be a joy to behold; I have tasted the 2001 vintage and it was a truly impressive wine, one that is certainly worth looking out for.

The Imperial range, however, which comprises a reserva and gran reserva, has been around a little longer than the Real de Asúa, since the 1920s in fact; the gran reserva (which has a production of typically 20000 cases per annum) is a great wine, which sits comfortably with the very best Spain can offer, and makes a fascinating contrast with the very modern Real de Asúa. Curiously it is named for the pinta imperial or imperial pint, the volume of the bottles in which it was exported to the United Kingdom early on its production. Both the Imperial wines are sourced from vineyards around Villalba and Haro, harvested by hand and then cold-macerated, before fermentation in stainless steel, and subsequent ageing for the prescribed time in a mixture of French and American oak. Do not overlook these wines; both can be excellent value.

Viña Real and Contino

The second and third CVNE wineries could not be two more disparate structures. The Viña Real range has long been sourced from fruit grown in Rioja Alavesa, as opposed to Imperial which is all Rioja Alta, but now these wines have their own sparkling new winery also. This monument to modern Rioja, designed by Philippe Mazières, resembles the upper half of a wine barrel, constructed from Canadian cedar. Situated on the Cerro de la Mesa, a hilltop site which commands excellent views over Logroño, the building not only makes a very strong statement but also houses up-to-the-minute technology for the vinification of the Viña Real range, which was first introduced in the 1940s. The gran reserva (which has a production of typically 15-20000 cases per annum) is made from a selection of fruit, 95% Tempranillo and 5% Graciano, from around the Rioja Alavesa region, fermented in stainless steel with pumping over before ageing in a mix of French and American oak. It typically has a more silky finesse than the more structured, tannic Imperial. There are also reserva and crianza bottlings, a white barrel-fermented wine made from 100% Viura, as well as Pagos de Viña Real, a Rioja produced from vineyards between Logroño and Laguardia owned by CVNE, as distinct from many of the wines which are made using purchased fruit, as is the norm in Rioja. The fruit, 100% Tempranillo, is transported in small boxes, fermented in small oak barrels and aged in French barriques, so this would appear to be Rioja in very much the modern vein.

Contino is the opposite side of the coin; these wines are produced at a small estate located near Laguardia in the Rioja Alavesa region, not far from the Ebro which meanders around the estate in a great, sweeping arc. There is a farmhouse with cellars several centuries old, and 66 hectares of vineyards, all purchased by José Madrazo Real de Asúa in 1973 with the sole aim of producing single vineyard wines in the same vein as any leading Bordeaux chateau, here using a mix of French and American oak. José Madrazo was the fourth generation to run the business, a direct descendant of the original founders. Now his son, Jesús Madrazo, holds the reins, taking on primarily the role of technical director and winemaker at Contino. The descendants of Eusebio and Raimundo are still pivotal figures at CVNE, although this conglomeration of wineries is no longer a simple family-run affair; in 1997 the Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España was floated on the Spanish stock exchange, so this is big business. But at Contino, which is owned in part by the CVNE group, and in part by the Madrazo family, the concept is still small, and Madrazo has a direct, hands-on approach. The range of wines includes Viña del Olivo, a selection from a small plot within the Contino vineyards, and there is also, unusually in the land where Tempranillo is king, a pure Graciano bottling.

It seems to me that CVNE can be all things; good value, inexpensive and very drinkable Rioja, both white and red, or top flight Rioja in a classic style. Or new-wave, modern Rioja made with predominantly French oak. And there are even single-vineyard wines made at Contino, bucking the Rioja trend. And overall, quality seems to be very good; I have taken advantage of several opportunities to taste through the range over the years, and I have also added wines to the cellar, both thirty year-old bottles purchased in maturity and young gran reservas that will need decades to reveal their true metal. The top wines, such as these recent acquisitions, age superbly, for decades, and I am of the opinion that mature examples that come to the market from time to time are worth purchasing, provided there is some reassuring information regarding provenance. Rioja has also been blessed with a number of excellent vintages over the last few decades, and the wines become even more desirable when buoyed by the richness of a great vintage, such as 2001, as evinced by my tasting notes. (15/8/06, updated 4/3/08)

Contact details:
Address: P.I. Los Nogales, C/ Rio Duero No.1 nave 6, 28110 Algete
Telephone: +34 91 628 93 80
Fax: +34 91 628 93 81
Internet: www.cvne.com

CVNE - Tasting Notes

Click to locate stockists.

2006

CVNE Cuné Rioja Blanco Monopole 2006: 100% Viura, no oak. Very fresh, steely and sherbetty on the nose. Clean, with quite punchy acidity. A smoky note on the finish. It has a decent weight but it is very sharply defined. Very clean, with lots of impact despite its fresh and lean character. Good. 15.5/20 (November 2007)

2005

CVNE Cuné Blanco Monopole Barrel Fermented 2005: 100% Viura, 30% fermented in oak, 70% in stainless steel, but then bottled in stages with no significant oak ageing. Appealing aromas on the nose, although they relate to the oak fermentation rather than Viura, which is not particularly aromatic. Notes of fennel and perhaps lemon fruit. Fresh, rounded, substance and grip. Some body here, although it has quite a fresh presence on the palate. This is good. 16+/20 (November 2007)

CVNE Rioja Viña Real Crianza 2005: A nice, lively, cherry-raspberry red appearance. Very light summer fruits on the nose, vibrant although presented with a steely edge. Light but nicely rounded on the palate, soft, not really a lot of focus. Liquorous finish, and nice gentle character. Just a little grip at the end. Good for what it is. 15.5/20 (November 2007)

Contino Rioja Graciano 2005: A 100% Graciano cuvée, a special bottle when one considers there are only about 600 hectares of Graciano planted in the entire Rioja vineyard. Only 5701 bottles of this produced. A raspberry-tinged purple intensity, with a nose of pure, forceful cherry brandy. Dense, creamy, with a very big structure on the palate. Lots of tannin, but there is a lot of fruit also. Very dense with a lot of grip. A unique style, and very good, but in terms of sheer quality there are better wines in the portfolio here. 16.5+/20 (November 2007)

2004

CVNE Cuné Rioja Reserva 2004: This is Rioja Alta fruit. There is good depth here. It shows slightly macerated fruit on the nose, with some fruit complexity. Ripe, rather soft and creamy, but behind this there is tannin and peppery acidity. Some grip at the finish. Quality components, but they are all over the place at the moment. But good potential when it all comes together. 16+/20 (November 2007)

Contino Rioja Viña del Olivo 2004: Named after a 200-year old olive tree at the centre of the vineyard. A good youthful colour on inspection. Evocative fruit on the nose, lots of character, quite precise in its presentation of vibrant, red summer fruits served with cream and a firm dash of oak. Quite a lot of tannin and acidity. Creamy texture. It needs to knit together somewhat but it has great potential. A lovely style. Excellent. 18+/20 (November 2007)

2003

CVNE Rioja Monopole Blanco 2003: This is 100% Viura. A lemon-infused, barrel-ferment nose, full of spicy, butterscotch oak. The palate is also unsurprisingly very oak dominated, but has a pleasing, clean style. A bit of a meal in a glass, and a chewy one at that. I suspect it may resemble the good-value Monopole of old when the oak has integrated somewhat. 15.5+/20 (November 2005)

CVNE Rioja Contino Viña del Olivo 2003: This is 85% Tempranillo, 15% Graciano. Only just bottled, and a very youthful hue which belies this fact. Plenty of meaty-cherry fruit character on the nose, with lots of primary fruit aromas, which has great appeal and potential for the future. Very pure, young palate, still a little angular, and very simple with lots of primary fruit, but it has clear potential for the cellar. Very good indeed. 18+/20 (November 2005)

2001

CVNE Rioja Imperial Reserva 2001: Lovely development here, in a classic vintage. Lovely fruit, with a liquorice edge, and a meaty richness. Stylish, rounded, fresh, classic flavours, well framed fruit on the palate also. Lots of bite and grip at the finish. Really very stylish and well set up for the cellar, although it is approachable now. Really very, very good indeed. 17.5+/20 (November 2007)

Contino Rioja Reserva 2001: This has more open fruit than the CVNE wines tasted alongside - although the vintages are different, so perhaps comparisons should not be made. It has a meaty and furry style, with a lovely fruit intensity, and even a honeyed edge, perhaps related to the oak? Rounded, creamy, but not overly rich or fat. There is a lot of grip at the end. Stylish it is, but I think I prefer a more traditional style. Nevertheless I can see plenty here that appeals. 16.5-17+/20 (November 2007)

Real de Asúa Rioja 2001: Produced since 1994. Aged in Seguin Moreau oak barrels. This is 85% Tempranillo, 5% Garnacha, 5% Mazuelo and 5% Graciano. Made using fruit from the Imperial vineyard, and it has spent 20 months in new French barriques. The first impression is that this is lovely. There is fruit intensity, mixed with classic elements of Rioja, meaty notes and liquorice. Very forceful palate, ripe and rounded, great impact. Dense fruit but with plenty of good acidity. Tannic grip too. This all comes together very nicely in a very firm style, showing a little silky element on the finish. I find this to be quite stunning, with wonderful cellaring potential. 19+/20 (November 2007)

2000

CVNE Rioja Reserva 2000: A moderately deep colour here, with a very furry, animalistic, feral nose. Rather full on the palate, with a softly rounded mouthfeel and a nice texture. A little elegance here in terms of style, still with a little tannin too. This needs just a year or so in the cellar to fully integrate, then it will make decent drinking. 16+/20 (November 2005)

CVNE Rioja Contino Viña del Olivo 2000: This is 90% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano, aged in French barrique for 18 months. A very dense colour with a glossy appearance. Deeply fruited nose, with a little oak showing, but apparent complexity too. The palate reveals this to be a finely presented, complex, deep, concentrated wine, on a structure of fine, grainy tannins. Very mouthfilling, with coffee and tobacco nuances alongside the fruit. Really lovely style here, which will do well in the cellar. 18.5+/20 (November 2005)

1999

CVNE Rioja Reserva Contino 1999: A good colour, deep, and plenty of dense, spiced fruit on the nose. Still youthful, with obvious oak. The palate has a chewy, mouthfilling, structured style, but with an appealing flavour profile of fruit showing unexpected but pleasingly mature characteristics. The oak seems better absorbed than expected also. This is a big, grippy style with a tannic finish, which needs 4-5 years to resolve. Very good. 16.5+/20 (November 2005)

1998

CVNE Rioja Reserva 1998: A mature hue, with a tawny-treacly hue which is much more advanced than I would have expected, although it shows a vibrant red when the light catches it right. Smoky coffee grounds, mature and vegetal nose, with roasted, leathery, meaty-berry fruit. Medium body, chewy fruit, integrating oak, somewhat burnt-roasted character and a polyphenol-influenced mouthfeel. Tarry finish. All a bit overdone here. 13.5/20 (August 2005)

CVNE Rioja Reserva Viña Real 1998: A rich Burgundy-mahogany hue. Meaty nose, with macerated blackberry and a hint of toffee-edged volatility at first. Complex, slightly feral, earthy and a touch beefy. Full, very fine but rich, toffee and high-toned fruit, deliciously wrapped up in a silky, seamless texture. Great depth here. Still some structure evident giving support to the wine, but less so than last time. A fine, elegant style. Very good indeed. 17+/20 (August 2006)

CVNE Rioja Reserva Viña Real 1998: This is made using fruit sourced from Rioja Alavesa. Rather an earthy tinge to the colour, evidence of maturity setting in, compounding the effect of oak ageing. Complex and earthy palate, with notes of undergrowth; this has interest and a good style. Full palate, fairly rich, with a lovely, rounded, seamless character supporting some spiced red fruits. A little bite of tannin beneath the texture gives some backbone. Overall a very nice, reserved, refined style. Will improve over a few years. 16.5+/20 (November 2005)

CVNE Rioja Reserva Imperial 1998: A deep, glossy, maturing hue. A denser nose, a deeper presence of dark, maturing fruits, with dark, meaty spices. There is the tiniest hint of volatility here too, although it rapidly blows off. Lovely, velvety, warm and welcoming palate, with a soft and cushioning texture. A little firmer, broader, deeper than the Viña Real, with fine fruit and lovely, silky-svelte but fading tannins, providing a very fine presence. A little behind the Viña Real, but lovely now despite my thoughts last year that it needed more time; this should drink well for several years. 17+/20 (August 2006)

CVNE Rioja Reserva Imperial 1998: In contrast this is 100% Rioja Alta fruit, and it has a markedly different, much paler hue. Yet on the nose it seems more masculine, showing firmer fruit with a biting, fruit rind character, and spicy oak. Quite creamy and textured palate, with a firmer presence of ripe tannins. Much broader style, needing more time to come around I think, 2-3 years at least. Very good again. 16.5+/20 (November 2005)

CVNE Rioja Viña Real Gran Reserva 1998: A nice depth of colour here, although paler than the Imperial, and showing a little more maturity too I think. A very gentle nose, stylish and reserved, with soft meaty fruit. Nicely structured on the palate, textured and silky. Takes a little time to open out, revealing a lot of character. Nice acidity, very nicely composed. This is very admirable and certainly has potential for the cellar. 17-17.5+/20 (November 2007)

CVNE Rioja Imperial Gran Reserva 1998: A good colour, and meaty fruit, presented in a refined fashion, on the nose. Good weight and no shortage of style on the palate. Lots of good acidity, textured, with a spicy grip. There is even some evolving silkiness here, and certainly plenty of depth on the finish. Another very, very good wine with excellent potential. 17.5-18+/20 (November 2007)

1997

CVNE Cuné Rioja Blanco Monopole 1997: A pale golden colour, and a promising nose of tropical fruits and buttery, barrel ferment character. Superb texture has developed on the palate, with great yet elegant fruit, candle wax and bitter almond complexity, and a background hint of woody tannin. Correct acidity. A honey and herbal tea edge to the finish, and a full and persistent length. This is one of the finest, and yet also most affordable, examples of barrel fermented white Rioja of which I am aware. From a Rioja tasting. 16.5/20 ()

CVNE Cuné Rioja Blanco Monopole 1997: Two bottles tasted within a couple of months of one another. A lemon yellow hue. An exciting nose of spicy oak mixed with lemon curd and buttery fruit. A rich and mouth-filling palate, with more lemon curd and new oak. Good acidity ensures nice balance, and the flavour profile pervades right through to the finish. A classy wine, rather like a mini-Meursault. Will try again. The second bottle has a similar lemon-gold colour. The nose carries some typical spicy American oak, but at times this seems rather oatmealy and Burgundian. Some buttery fruit. On the palate, a nice weight combined with savoury, buttery fruit, pleasantly integrated oak and an aromatic, lemony acidity makes for a good wine. Finishes well. 16.5/20 (September 2000)

1996

CVNE Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Real 1996: A fading red hue here, with a pink-orange rim. Macerated forest fruits on the nose, with notes of undergrowth and cherry stones. Full, elegant style on the palate, but a lovely creamy texture with a good presence. Quite a broad wine, still with a firm core of tannin. This is a lovely wine with great potential, as suggested by the gorgeous length. 18+/20 (November 2005)

CVNE Rioja Gran Reserva Imperial 1996: Again a firmer, fuller style than the corresponding Viña Real from the same vintage. Even broader, and showing a greater spread of fruit and supporting oak. A big, structured, tannin-infused palate, although there is a rounded texture, and a lovely smoky-feral-tobacco complexity to it. Showing lovely notes of maturity, although this has years ahead of it yet. Again a lovely length. 18+/20 (November 2005)

1976

CVNE Rioja Gran Reserva Viña Real 1976: Decanted, more sediment here than I am used to with old Rioja. I was pouring and drinking within the hour. It has a wonderful colour, still quite deep in appearance, mahogany-red core, with a tawny, golden brown rim. The nose certainly has complexity starting off with some volatility, in the shape of some highly polished wood and leather, then roasted, macerated fruits. Then follow aromas of sweetly cooked meats, tobacco, cigars and even a little coffee which is appealing, although I tend to associate this aroma with young wines rather than old. The palate has finesse; it is full, with soft, chalky tannins having a background presence, behind a fine texture and wave after wave of complex flavours, like those characteristics found on the nose. It is warm, balanced, firm and still with quite a little grip, but elegant, rather silky and certainly delicious, with its broad, complete, harmonious presence. It ends with an admirably warm, lingering finish. This is really very, very good indeed. For label images and more see my Wine of the Week write-up. 19/20 (May 2007)