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Clos Triguedina
Clos Triguedina is one of the leading estates of Cahors, situated to the southwest of Puy l'Evêque on the left bank of the Lot River, and it has been steered towards success by the same family for eight generations. Quite why it has taken eight generations to get from the planting of the first vines by Etienne Baldès, in 1830, to modern day I’m not sure; after all, Hugel seem have to managed another two centuries, from 1639 to present day, with only thirteen. Perhaps the fine weather around Cahors affects fertility?
The Baldès family struggled through scourge of the late 19th Century, Phylloxera, eventually planting vines grafted onto American rootstock, the accepted solution to this problem. Other disasters, such as oidium and the great frost of 1956 have been weathered well, the result being that the eighth generation, Jean-Luc Baldès, has at his disposal 57 ha of vines, some of which are of considerable age. The vineyards are limestone and clay, and comprise mostly Malbec (also known as Auxerrois or Cot), as well as Merlot, Tannat and Chenin Blanc. Work in the vineyard includes a green harvest, and at harvest time the grapes are passed over a sorting table before vinification in Triguedina’s sparkling new winery. Combining history, tradition and modern winery equipment and practices, Baldès fashions an interesting array of wines.
The flagship wine is
Prince Probus, named in honour of Emperor Probus, who is
said to have replanted the vineyards of Cahors in the 3rd Century, the vines
having been uprooted two hundred years earlier. Cahors thus has a valid claim as
one of France’s oldest established regions for viticulture. The Prince Probus
cuvée is
100% Malbec aged in new Allier oak. Then there is Clos Triguedina Cahors,
Malbec-dominated, with some Merlot and Tannat. But one of the most intriguing
and unusual additions to the range is the Cahors ‘The New Black Wine’. Also made
from 100% Malbec, this is produced in a similar fashion to the ‘black wine’ of
Cahors which was exported to England as long ago as the 13th Century, when it
was drunk with gusto by Michael Broadbent. The process involves heating the must to 60
Centigrade for less
than thirty minutes, which I think improves extraction of colour – and doesn’t
lessen the tannin levels, something for which Cahors is renowned, either.
Finally Vin de Lune, a moelleux made using Chenin Blanc. Why Vin de Lune? Well,
the grapes are harvested in the cool early morning, but the name reflects a time
when local peasants would have their own nocturnal mini-harvest, relieving their
lords and masters of a quantity of grapes by the light of the moon.
(27/1/05)
Contact details:
Address: 46700 Puy-l'Evèque
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 65 21 30 81
Fax: +33 (0) 5 65 21 39 28
Clos Triguedina - Tasting Notes
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Clos Triguedina Cahors 'Prince Probus' 2003: Intense, sweet fruit on
the nose here. The palate is packed with tannin, acidity and texture, supporting
a layer of sweet black fruits. Very primary and needs a decade in the cellar at
least. 16+/20 (November 2004)
Clos Triguedina Cahors 'Prince Probus' 2001: Dark fruits on the nose
again. Super-ripe creamy fruit on the palate, with a rounded, textured feel
despite the wealth of mouth-coating tannins. A red fruit profile in the mouth.
This is good. 15.5+/20 (November 2004)
Clos Triguedina Cahors 2001: Fairly closed nose. Full, structured
palate. Intense, with piles of tannin and good acidity. Textured but showing
little fruit at present. Almost impenetrable. Has potential though. Needs ten
years at least. Another good wine. 16+/20 (November 2004)
Clos Triguedina Cahors 'Prince Probus' 2000: A very full, rich nose.
Black fruits. A big, lush, ripe and creamy texture, cut through by a seam of
tannin. This is just packed with structure. This is a very impressive package,
with the right structure for the cellar again. 16.5+/20 (November 2004)
Clos Triguedina Cahors 2000: A delightful nose. Very perfumed, with
sweet, crushed raspberry notes. This is showing lovely development. Full, sweet,
voluptuous and textured on the palate. Plenty of supple, ripe tannins. Acidity
borders on the low side but is there. Needs ten years. 16+/20 (November 2004)
Clos Triguedina Cahors 'The New Black Wine' 1999: Ripe dark fruits on
the nose. Soft, ripe palate. A little confected (I think this may reflect the
heated must) which I don't like. Still has a wealth of tannin in the finish
though, and needs eight to ten years for my palate. 13.5+/20 (November 2004)
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