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Domaine de Nidolères
Domaine de Nidolères is home to local vigneron Pierre Escudie and his wife, Martine, who runs a restaurant here. The domaine is a long established one, the vineyards having been cultivated for eight generations. There are 50 hectares of vines in total, of which 35 hectares qualify for the Rivesaltes, Muscat de Rivesaltes or Côtes du Roussillon appellations, the balance largely bottled as vin de pays. They are located in a single plot in Les Aspres, a district between Perpignan and the Spanish border, the vines planted along terraces of clay-rich, stony, sandy soils. The varieties tended by Escudie are typical of the region; Grenache Noir, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Carignan for the reds, Grenache Blanc and Muscat d'Alexandrie for the white wines. The wines sell on many markets, but naturally they also find their way into the restaurant at the heart of Domaine de Nidolères, where they are served alongside the dishes from Martine's kitchen.
Pierre Escudie bottles a considerable array of wines, beginning with a rosé
vin de pays, the Rosé d'Un Soir, made from the white Carignan
mutation which contributes half of the blend, with 40% Syrah and 10% Grenache
Noir, destemmed and fermented at a cool temperature. The other vin de pays of
note is a Côtes Catalanes Grenache Blanc, made from 90 year old vines
harvested at just 25 hl/ha, before cool fermentation with the stems. At the core
of the Nidolères portfolio, however, is Côtes du Roussillon, of which there are
a number of cuvées:
- A domaine Côtes du Roussillon bottling: a straight blend of one third each Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache, hand harvested, macerated for three weeks, aged in vat.
- La Raphaelle, 80% Mourvèdre, 10% each Syrah and Grenache, grown on stony and silicious clay soils. Again hand harvested, macerated for three weeks, aged in vat.
- La Justine, 60% Grenache Noir, 20% each Syrah and Carignan, from 60 year old vines, similar terroir, macerated for two weeks.
- La Pierroune, 80% Syrah, 10% each Carignan and Grenache, again similar terroir, macerated for three weeks.
- L'Anglette, an old vines cuvée, comprising 60% Carignan from 90 year-old vines and 20% each Grenache and Syrah from 28 year-old vines.
As with the domaine bottling, all the Côtes du Roussillon cuvées are handled in a similar manner; hand harvesting with selection of fruit from the vine, traditional vinification and maceration for a period of two to three weeks, depending on the wine. In addition, all of these wines are fermented and matured in vats, with no oak contact whatsoever. This is a wonderful thing; a winemaker who allows the quality of the fruit to shine, who does not feel the need to smother his wine in oak so he can call it a prestige cuvée and charge a few Euros more. I applaud this practice wholeheartedly.
Escudie finishes with a fascinating selection of sweet wines, both red and white. The Muscat de Rivesaltes is made from 100% Muscat d’Alexandrie, hand-harvested, fermented with temperature control and then held in vat for up to a year before bottling. From Grenache Blanc there is a vintage Rivesaltes Ambre and a VdP d'Oc sweet late harvest style, the latter handpicked in October at a remarkable 3 hl/ha (no, that isn't a typo). And from Grenache Noir, another VdP d'Oc late harvest style (3.5 hl/ha for this wine) and the delightfully exuberant Grenat Rivesaltes. (13/7/06)
Contact details:
Address: 66300 Tresserre
Telephone: +33 (0) 4 68 83 15 14
Fax: +33 (0) 6 68 83 31 26
Domaine de Nidolères - Tasting Notes
Domaine de Nidolères Muscat de Rivesaltes 2004: An aromatic, rich,
rather forceful nose that plainly wants plenty of attention. Very typical Muscat
character on the here, showing a full, sweet, expansive style, reaching every
corner of the palate. Impressive wine, with a characterful, lingering finish.
15.5/20 (October 2005)
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Domaine de Nidolères VdP des Côtes Catalanes Rosé d'un Soir 2004: A blend of
Syrah, Grenache and Carignan. A vibrant pink, with a light strawberry nose. Dry
palate, infused with a little tannin would appeal to some. Summer fruit flavour
profile. This doesn't move me at all though. 14/20 (October 2005)
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Domaine de Nidolères Rivesaltes Grenat 2004: Another sweet wine, again
100% Grenache Noir. Nice smoky cherry fruit on the nose. This follows through on
the palate, which has a smooth, seamless composition, enveloped in a creamy
coating of smoke and juicy cherries that is just a little short of voluptuous .
Lovely presence of fruit and fine structure. This is impressively long. Lovely.
17.5/20 (October 2005)
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Domaine de Nidolères Côtes du Roussillon 2003: This blend of Syrah and
Mourvèdre has a deep, youthful hue, and although containing an aliquot of Syrah
it is the Mourvèdre that seems all the more apparent in this cuvée. Furry
animalistic notes on the nose, with a depth of brawny, brambly fruit. Showing an
appealing elegance on the palate, with creamy style, but the firm, meaty
structure of the Mourvèdre. Tannic finish; needs 5-6 years in the cellar.
16.5/20 (October 2005)
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Domaine de Nidolères Côtes du Roussillon La Pierroune 2003: Another
deep colour to yet another wine from the oven-like 2003 vintage. Dark berry
fruits on the nose, although it really is rather reticent. There is more given
away on the palate here, which offers aromas of plump, black, forest fruits.
Beautiful texture, seamless and cut through by firm ripe tannins which culminate
in a crescendo on the finish. A very good wine, but it shows the low acidity of
the 2003 vintage quite plainly. 16.5/20 (October 2005)
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Domaine de Nidolères Côtes du Roussillon La Raphaële 2003: A Mourvèdre
dominated cuvée. Very dark indeed on inspection. Very reticent on the nose,
showing just a little note of liquorice and a distant, animalistic, savage
character. Full, creamy palate with firm, muscular tannins beneath. There is a
more readily apparent varietal character here than on the nose. Rather brawny
and brutal at the moment, with a wealth of tannin on the finish. Will soften
with appropriate cellaring, needs five years at least. 16.5+/20 (October 2005)
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Domaine de Nidolères VdP d'Oc Les Feuilles Rouge Vendanges Tardives 2003:
A sweet wine, made from 100% Grenache Noir. A moderate depth of colour here.
Full, sweet, characterful on the nose, and on the expansive palate a set of
complex, meaty, undergrowth nuances. Very similarly structure though,
demonstrating an appealing wall of tannins and a touch more acidity. Very good.
16.5/20 (October 2005)
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Domaine de Nidolères VdP d'Oc Vendanges Tardives 2002: Rather deep hue, a burnished orange-copper
colour. One the nose, notes of baked earth more reminiscent of the Douro than
the Languedoc, with a curious medicinal, floral edge to the cooked orange fruit
that characterises this wine. Really fat mouthfeel on entry, more baked earth
character as the nose suggested, with reasonable acidity behind the somewhat
attractive bitter citrus elements. Short finish. A rustic wine which has some
appeal, but lacks the vivacity and freshness that brings true appeal to a wine.
15/20 (April 2006)
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Domaine de Nidolères VdP d'Oc Vendanges Tardives 2002: This is 100%
Grenache Blanc, harvested in October. A rather deep, burnished orange hue. A
heady nose, perfumed, orange marmalade. Intensely sweet on the palate, creamy,
with notes of orange blossom, barley sugar and honey. Lots of cooked-baked
fruit, very approachable and easy, but rather lacking in acidity and a desirable
balance. It lies heavy on the palate, and lacks freshness. 15.5/20 (October 2005)
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