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Clos de l'Origine
Marc Barriot wanted to make wine, without cutting corners, and without compromise. There was no chance of inheriting an established domaine, as his was not a winemaking family. What some might regard as a disadvantage, however, has not hampered Barriot; in fact, it allowed him to cast his net wide in the search for his vineyard, looking to the New World before he saw sense and settled on his native France, and in particular, Roussillon. And so was born Clos de l'Origine.
This
is a domaine of over 5 hectares, comprising Muscat à Petit Grain, Grenache Blanc &
Gris and Maccabeu for the white wines, Carignan, Grenache and Syrah for the reds,
grown in plots all carefully selected by Marc Barriot for their particular
terroir. These vineyards are spread between four local communes, Calce, Estagel,
Montner and Maury. The entire domaine has been run on biodynamic principles
from the outset, starting in March 2004, with all vine processes, including harvest, being manual.
Where the vineyards allow it they are worked with a tractor, although in many
places Barriot uses a mule instead.
The grapes are harvested into 15kg crates before they are pressed for three hours, prior to transfer to tank where they ferment using indigenous yeasts. There is no sulphur utilised here at this stage and thus the fermentations finish naturally, although a little may be added for stabilisation later on. The wines may rest on their lees in tank, allowing a natural clarification, and racking may follow according to the wine. The reds undergo a natural malolactic fermentation. On tasting the results, all Barriot's hard work does seem have paid off; I tasted three wines from his inaugural vintage, 2004, and found pleasure in all three. The Muscat Sec is particularly worthy of mention, showing much more body and structure than many a wine made from this particular variety, although both of the reds, a VdP des Côtes Catalanes and a Côtes du Roussillon, were also very good. (4/7/06)
Contact details:
Address: 66460 Maury
Telephone: +33 (0) 4 68 53 10 38
Fax: +33 (0) 6 75 03 71 71
Internet:
closdelorigine.free.fr
Clos de l'Origine - Tasting Notes
Clos de l'Origine VdP des Côtes Catalanes Muscat Sec 2004:
A cuvée of 100% Muscat, harvested by hand on August 28th. This has a very
typical, aromatic nose and yet is surprisingly full, grippy and structured on
the palate, presenting a very firm, not flowery, style. There is even a little
tannin here helping to create this very masculine mouthfeel. Lovely style, just
let down a little by the short finish. 16/20 (October 2005)
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Clos de l'Origine VdP des Côtes Catalanes 2004:
A blend of 50% Grenache with Carignan and Syrah, all three varieties fermented
together in used barrels between two and four years old. Marc uses no sulphur,
trusting batonnage of the lees to protect his wine, which has an appealing nose
of dark berry fruit, although still showing some unresolved, rather buttery oak.
Full and creamy palate, with firm tannins showing through the midpalate, but
with an attractive elegance as well. Lovely, spicy character and a coating
finish. Very good indeed. 16.5+/20 (October 2005)
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Clos de l'Origine Côtes du Roussillon 2004:
This is 60% Carignan, the balance being 20% each Grenache and Syrah, harvested
between 17th and 24th September. Half the fruit has been fermented using
maceration carbonique, bottled unfiltered and without sulphur. This has
great style on the nose, showing a pure, elegant style which I really admire.
Similar elegance on the palate, a firm and grippy structure overlaid with smooth
and creamy fruit. There is a fine persistence of character here, and this is
undoubtedly my favourite wine of this tasting.17+/20 (October 2005)
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