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Domaine Font de Michelle

The name of this estate is derived from a hidden spring, in a hollow among the vines, called the Fontaine de Michelle. It is today run by the third generation, Jean and Michel Gonnet. They honour their father with Cuvée Etienne Gonnet, and Etienne was instrumental in developing the estate, bringing together numerous small plots to make up the 30 ha that the brothers have to work with today.

The vines are located in the Commune de Bédarrides, which is contiguous with Chateauneuf, near the south-eastern corner of the Chateauneuf-du-Pape AC, unofficially known as the quartier St Louis. The vineyards are on largely well drained clay-limestone soils, naturally covered by the galets roulés which are typical of the region; these are on largely south and southeast facing slopes, which run up to Le Crau, home to the Vieux Télégraphe vineyards. Indeed, Vieux Télégraphe is Font de Michelle’s closest neighbour, and it comes as no surprise to learn that Daniel and Frederic Brunier, proprietors of Vieux Télégraphe, are cousins to Jean and Michel Gonnet.

The range of wines includes several cuvées of both red and white Chateauneuf, together with a number of cuvées of Côtes du Rhône. The straight Chateauneuf, referred to as the Cuvée Traditionelle although not labelled as such, is 70% Grenache - from 50 year old vines - with 10% each of Syrah, Cinsaut and Mourvèdre. Unusually the Syrah is fermented using a method approaching that of carbonic maceration, with whole, lightly crushed grapes passed into vats filled with carbon dioxide. The wine sees malolactic, and between six and nine months en foudre, before bottling. Many would regard, however, the Cuvée Etienne Gonnet, first introduced in 1988, to be the brothers’ top wine. This is again 70% Grenache - from 90 year old vines this time - with 15% each of Syrah and Mourvèdre. This special cuvée sees twelve months en futs de chene. Overall, the style of the reds is somewhere between classic Chateauneuf and a more modernistic approach, with plenty of colour, fruit and structure, but without going overboard; the wines maintain freshness, balance and aroma, and are undeniably Chateauneuf. They offer good quality as well as, particularly with the Cuvée Traditionelle, good value. The white Chateauneuf Cuvée Traditionelle is 50% Grenache Blanc, with 25% Clairette, 20% Bourboulenc and 5% Roussanne. Malolactic is blocked. There is also a white Cuvée Etienne Gonnet, made from selected vats which is 50% Roussanne, with 25% each Clairette and Grenache Blanc, and which sees a period of oak ageing before bottling. My limited experience of the former suggests that this can be a very good example of the appellation, if not one of the leading wines. (22/3/05)

Contact details:
Address: 84370 Bédarrides
Telephone: +33 (0) 4 90 33 00 22
Fax: +33 (0) 4 90 33 20 27
Internet: www.font-de-michelle.com

Domaine Font de Michelle - Tasting Notes

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Domaine Font de Michelle Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc 2003: A pale colour. Fresh, white Grenache fruit on the nose. Ripe, rounded, fresh, fleshy white fruit. Very showy. Not for the cellar; enjoy it now. 16/20 (May 2004)

Domaine Font de Michelle Châteauneuf du Pape 2001: A very darkly coloured wine, good red but maturing pigment at the rim, a much darker hue at the core, and a little murky with a fine suspended sediment. It takes an hour or so to open up, then providing aromas of warm, slightly fuzzy but nicely poised Grenache fruit, dark and slightly organic and meaty, savoury rather than sweet. Scorched earth nose. Prunes too, and I sense this might go a bit orangey soon. Not overtly cooked/baked though. A good weight on entry, substantial with the depth and texture of warm fruit, but in no way jammy or unbalanced. Nice mostly savoury fruit profile like the nose, balanced midpalate with soft, chewy tannins, although it does show a coarser character and some heat in the finish. Medium-bodied at best - but that's not a problem! All the same, drinking well now, although the finish is a bit stark. From a 2001 Southern Rhône tasting. 16/20 (April 2010)

Domaine Font de Michelle Châteauneuf du Pape 2001: Super-ripe smoky-cherry Grenache fruit on the nose. Sweet and rounded palate, ripe, supple and chewy. Extracted and grippy. On the palate, super ripe fruit like that on the nose. A lovely tannic flourish on the finish. Wonderful wine. This needs three to four years. 16.5+/20 (May 2004)

Domaine Font de Michelle Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Etienne Gonnet 2001: Like one or two other wines this has a very light sediment, and in terms of colour it has a very dark hue, a dusty-tawny shade, cut through with red. Dark sooty fruit on the nose, the aromas suggestive of stewed-pruney fruit although without the sweetness, just the dark bitterness, like dark chocolate, followed up by intense smoky and gamey mulberry, with juniper berry, charcoal, liquorice and a little touch of mint alongside the fruit The palate is smooth, creamy, with a composed entry, quickly showing a bitter chocolate and firm structure. Not a fat wine, substantial though, well framed, upright and with a grippy character with lots of tannic substance, although it seems well composed overall. A touch hard in the finish, but it subsides gently, with a ripe, polished feel to the tannins. It needs time to develop a greater harmony. Despite my description of the aromas I like this, a wine with a very good style, although it will not have universal appeal thanks to that smoothly applied oak and finish. From a 2001 Southern Rhône tasting. 17.5+/20 (April 2010)

Domaine Font de Michelle Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Etienne Gonnet 2001: A deeper red here. A compote of Grenache fruit on the nose. A very big, glossy, sweet rounded palate. Ripe and brawny, and still a little oak evident. Plenty of potential here. Needs four to five years. 17+/20 (May 2004)

Domaine Font de Michelle Châteauneuf du Pape 2000: A fine and mature colour, oxblood red at the core, and a wide, paler rim. The nose has plenty of open and overtly mature fruit, sweet and slightly high-toned, with violets, cooked cherries and hot, slightly funky, animalistic, caramelised meat. The palate is fleshy, but with firm underpinnings, plenty of meaty extract, and a lovely tangible substance to the wine. There's a good seam of ripe and smoky tannins, rather firm acidity although this sits quite well within the overall substance of the wine. A nice wine, broad and spicy, with plenty of forward character and a little suppleness, and a little length too. Good wine. From a 2000 Southern Rhône tasting. 17/20 (September 2009)

Domaine Font de Michelle Châteauneuf du Pape 1998: A good depth of colour but showing a mature hue. Lots of depth and complexity here, with very typical meaty, furry character with spiced fruits, orange peel and blueberries peppered with cloves and cinnamon. A nice, rounded texture on the palate, spice and pepper through the midpalate, still with a good current of tannins underneath it all. Good grip here too. Smoky character. There is depth and substance here but I don't find it to be overdone. Overall this is really rather good and has a more appealing style than many wines of the vintage. From a 1998 Southern Rhône tasting. 16.5/20 (February 2008)

Domaine Font de Michelle Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Etienne Gonnet 1998: A meaty nose. A lovely palate, stuffed with roasted meats and a lovely bitter fruit character. There are still plenty of tannins here, with firm acidity to match. Still has super texture and extract too. Needs a little time yet. 17+/20 (May 2004)

Domaine Font de Michelle Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Etienne Gonnet 1996: Again, a well established name, but the Etienne Gonnet Cuvée is not one I had tasted before. There is good reason to, however, as it is regarded by some as one of the top wines of the appellation. A less dark, purple red colour. A liquorice, toffee and caramel nose. The palate is big and sweet, with summer berry fruits and bags of toffee oak - too much for me at present. A luscious and full texture, oaky, with a big, fruit laden finish. I would have to leave this in the cellar in the hope that oak may integrate a little more. From a Rhône tasting. 16.5+/20 (January 2001)

Domaine Font de Michelle Châteauneuf du Pape 1989: A darker wine. Hot, spicy nose, with an element of smoke. Lots of fruit and some oak. On the palate some good fruit, but marred by a harsh, bitter finish. This softens with aeration, and more red fruit flavours appear. From a 1989 Chateauneuf tasting. 14/20 (July 2000)