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Domaine Font de Michelle
The name of this estate is derived from a hidden spring, in a hollow among the vines, called the Fontaine de Michelle. It is today run by the third generation, Jean and Michel Gonnet. They honour their father with Cuvée Etienne Gonnet, and Etienne was instrumental in developing the estate, bringing together numerous small plots to make up the 30 ha that the brothers have to work with today.
The vines are located in the Commune de Bédarrides, which is contiguous with
Chateauneuf, near the south-eastern corner of the Chateauneuf-du-Pape AC,
unofficially known as the quartier St Louis. The vineyards are on largely
well drained clay-limestone soils, naturally covered by the galets roulés
which are typical of the region; these are on largely south
and southeast facing slopes, which run up to Le Crau, home to the
Vieux Télégraphe vineyards. Indeed, Vieux
Télégraphe is Font de Michelle’s closest
neighbour, and it comes as no surprise to learn that Daniel and Frederic Brunier,
proprietors of Vieux Télégraphe, are cousins to Jean and Michel Gonnet.
The range of wines includes several cuvées of both red and white Chateauneuf, together with a number of cuvées of Côtes du Rhône. The straight Chateauneuf, referred to as the Cuvée Traditionelle although not labelled as such, is 70% Grenache - from 50 year old vines - with 10% each of Syrah, Cinsaut and Mourvèdre. Unusually the Syrah is fermented using a method approaching that of carbonic maceration, with whole, lightly crushed grapes passed into vats filled with carbon dioxide. The wine sees malolactic, and between six and nine months en foudre, before bottling. Many would regard, however, the Cuvée Etienne Gonnet, first introduced in 1988, to be the brothers’ top wine. This is again 70% Grenache - from 90 year old vines this time - with 15% each of Syrah and Mourvèdre. This special cuvée sees twelve months en futs de chene. Overall, the style of the reds is somewhere between classic Chateauneuf and a more modernistic approach, with plenty of colour, fruit and structure, but without going overboard; the wines maintain freshness, balance and aroma, and are undeniably Chateauneuf. They offer good quality as well as, particularly with the Cuvée Traditionelle, good value. The white Chateauneuf Cuvée Traditionelle is 50% Grenache Blanc, with 25% Clairette, 20% Bourboulenc and 5% Roussanne. Malolactic is blocked. There is also a white Cuvée Etienne Gonnet, made from selected vats which is 50% Roussanne, with 25% each Clairette and Grenache Blanc, and which sees a period of oak ageing before bottling. My limited experience of the former suggests that this can be a very good example of the appellation, if not one of the leading wines. (22/3/05)
Contact details:
Address: 84370 Bédarrides
Telephone: +33 (0) 4 90 33 00 22
Fax: +33 (0) 4 90 33 20 27
Internet:
www.font-de-michelle.com
Domaine Font de Michelle - Tasting Notes
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Domaine Font de Michelle Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc 2003: A pale
colour. Fresh, white Grenache fruit on the nose. Ripe, rounded, fresh, fleshy
white fruit. Very showy. Not for the cellar; enjoy it now. 16/20 (May 2004)
Domaine Font de Michelle Chateauneuf du Pape 2001: Super-ripe
smoky-cherry Grenache fruit on the nose. Sweet and rounded palate, ripe, supple
and chewy. Extracted and grippy. On the palate, super ripe fruit like that on
the nose. A lovely tannic flourish on the finish. Wonderful wine. This needs
three to four years. 16.5+/20 (May 2004)
Domaine Font de Michelle Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvée Etienne Gonnet 2001:
A deeper red here. A compote of Grenache fruit on the nose. A very big,
glossy, sweet rounded palate. Ripe and brawny, and still a little oak evident.
Plenty of potential here. Needs four to five years. 17+/20 (May 2004)
Domaine Font de Michelle Châteauneuf du Pape 1998: A good depth of
colour but showing a mature hue. Lots of depth and complexity here, with very
typical meaty, furry character with spiced fruits, orange peel and blueberries
peppered with cloves and cinnamon. A nice, rounded texture on the palate, spice
and pepper through the midpalate, still with a good current of tannins
underneath it all. Good grip here too. Smoky character. There is depth and
substance here but I don't find it to be overdone. Overall this is really rather
good and has a more appealing style than many wines of the vintage. From a
1998 Southern Rhône
tasting. 16.5/20
(February 2008)
Domaine Font de Michelle Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvée Etienne Gonnet 1998:
A meaty nose. A lovely palate, stuffed with roasted meats and a lovely
bitter fruit character. There are still plenty of tannins here, with firm
acidity to match. Still has super texture and extract too. Needs a little time
yet. 17+/20 (May 2004)
Domaine Font de Michelle Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvée
Etienne Gonnet 1996: Again, a
well established name, but the Etienne Gonnet Cuvée is
not one I had tasted before. There is good reason to,
however, as it is regarded by some as one of the top
wines of the appellation. A less dark, purple red colour.
A liquorice, toffee and caramel nose. The palate is big
and sweet, with summer berry fruits and bags of toffee
oak - too much for me at present. A luscious and full
texture, oaky, with a big, fruit laden finish. I would
have to leave this in the cellar in the hope that oak may
integrate a little more. From a
Rhône tasting. 16.5+/20
(January 2001)
Domaine Font de Michelle Chateauneuf du Pape 1989: A
darker wine. Hot, spicy nose, with an element of smoke.
Lots of fruit and some oak. On the palate some good
fruit, but marred by a harsh, bitter finish. This softens
with aeration, and more red fruit flavours appear. From a 1989
Chateauneuf tasting. 14/20 (July 2000)
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