The Patio

3 - 5 Church Road, Wavertree, Liverpool, L15. Tel: 0151 733 7474

A late hunt for a table one Saturday night led me to The Patio, yet another restaurant in the popular Allerton Road area. I have driven past this restaurant numerous times, and had never felt particularly drawn towards it, and had heard no significant comments about. As a consequence it has taken a little time for me to get around to paying a visit.

What a mistake that has been.

First impressions count. Inside, the Patio has clean lines and a very modern feel. Cream walls and dark blue linen make a pleasing combination, and the staff are turned out in similarly dark colours. The faux topiary goes perhaps one step too far, although it fits in well with many of the pictures that adorn the walls. There's no law against real plants in restaurants though.

The wine list is fairly standard. It has a nice breadth of coverage of the various regions and countries of the world, although it is spread a little thin at times. Some négociant Burgundies, co-operative wines from other regions of France, Cordier wines from Bordeaux, and so on. I spotted some Musar 1994 (one of the best Musars of recent years) and enquired, only to be told it had been sent back. "We opened bottle after bottle, and they all seemed off", came the explanation. An amusing image came to mind, of the restaurateur sniffing numerous bottles of Musar and complaining of the excess volatile acidity, which is of course Musar's well known trademark. Perhaps I should offer my services for some assistance with choosing the wine list? After another browse I plumped for something from reliable Chilean producer Errazuriz.

Errazuriz Syrah Reserva (Aconcagua) 1999: A dark, glossy red wine with a tinge of purple. The nose is all over the place, at first sweet and intense cassis fruit, then more complex with aromas of smoke and waxed paper. Then a harder, charcoal and stone character. Sweet, dusty, chewy fruit on the palate, with a good tannic kick coming through towards the finish. Charcoal and smoke. Very good. (2/8/02)

The menu at the patio seems to have no strong influencing theme or country, although there is a predominance of fish and seafood. Dishes based around prawns, mussels, oysters and lobster abound, although there is no shortage of alternatives - even ostrich, alongside more conventional meats. From the starter menu, a selection of Italian cured meats and chargrilled vegetables with a roast pepper dressing went down a treat, even though some of the 'Italian' meats bore a strong resemblance to Chorizo. A chicken boudin stuffed with spinach and roast pepper mousse, dressed with a balsamic reduction, was also well received. The main dishes were also nicely executed - a fillet steak, which came with a lightly peppered sauce, lay sandwiched between a bed of crushed new potatoes and some deep fried salad onions - a hearty dish indeed. From the specials menu that evening, a succulent rack of garlic lamb was also well received. The dishes lean towards well executed, rich and tasty rather than elegant, but they remain very enjoyable.

The desserts, however, were spectacular, both in presentation and taste. A strawberry and vanilla cheesecake was like no other I have experienced. Rich, thick and creamy cheesecake, peppered and adorned with pieces of fresh strawberry. Delightful. Similarly rich yet refreshing was a crème brulee, served with crème fraiche and fruits of the forest.

Excellent service all evening, which was rounded off by some good coffee, meant that The Patio is high on my list of Liverpool restaurant recommendations. It also has value for money on its side. Bravo!

Prices: A very reasonable £25 per head for three courses. Our wine cost £26 (200-300% mark up over retail prices), although prices go up to about £100 for Gruaud-Larose 1989. House wines are more reasonably priced.