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The Newz Brasserie

18 Water Street, Liverpool L2 Tel: 0151 236 2025

This is another new addition to an ever growing list of recommended Liverpool restaurants. This one had me making my way down to the city centre, as The Newz Brasserie is located in New Zealand House on Water Street, not far from Liverpool’s wonderful town hall. It is impossible to report on a visit here without commenting on the design and decor employed at the Newz. Behind the front door is a dark corridor, with plush, gathered blood red drapes running from the high ceilings to the floor. Only the candles on the few tables to the left provide any light. This dramatic entranceway then releases you into the main hall, which is quite brightly lit, and houses a large bar, together with copious tables and leather chairs. There’s plenty to take in, but of greatest interest are the murals that adorn the ceiling, which are best viewed from the elevated dining area at the far end of the hall.

The menu is not lengthy but is nicely put together, so it should have something for everyone. I found a roast tomato and fresh corn soup made a tasty combination, in which the corn maintained its sweetness and crunch. A Foie Gras and chicken liver parfait with grape and raisin chutney was also a pleaser. Taken separately neither really wowed, but the combination was perfect, the light, flavoursome, juicy chutney providing a lift for the densely textured pate.

There are some appealing main dishes on the menu, not least the beef fillet in wild mushroom ragout, which comes accompanied by a red onion tart. The steak was perfectly presented, the wild mushroom sauce fascinating, and the onion tart divine. This was an excellent combination. Also good, although paling in the light of the beef fillet, was the escalope of veal and Risotto Milanese, with Parma ham and parmesan. A good combination of ingredients, with some nice flavours, but perhaps lacking in wow factor.

No disappointment with the dessert menu, however, despite a very limited choice. Pannacotta with forest fruits was a pleasing, tasty, although simple dessert, whereas a chocolate and orange terrine was terrific, possessing a marvellously dense texture and being packed with flavour. Superb stuff! The overall experience at the Newz Brasserie isn’t let down by the waiting staff either, of whom I cannot complain. The service was polite, efficient and helpful, with an appropriate touch of humour.

What does disappoint is the wine list, which is limited. Making an informed choice is made difficult as all but one or two of the wines are on-trade only wines, so the names are unfamiliar. Nevertheless my spirit lifted when I spotted Les Cailloux Châteauneuf du Pape 1999, Les Cailloux being a top producer of the southern Rhône, and this being an excellent vintage. Somewhat young, but I was more than willing to give it a try. The bottle, when it arrived at the table, turned about to be a Chateauneuf cuvée, the 1999 Innocent VI from négociant firm Les Grandes Serres, a very different kettle of fish. I’m glad to say that the wine service was excellent, however, the bottle having been brought to the table unopened, and so I did have the opportunity to refuse it should I so wish. As it happened I still thought it was probably the best option, and the bottle was opened at the table:

Les Grandes Serres Chateauneuf du Pape Innocent VI 1999: A pleasing garnet hue with a reasonable depth of colour. Very fruit orientated on the nose, predominantly cherries. On the palate there is a fair weight, together with a good structure of soft tannins and balanced acidity. Pleasant spice and cherry fruit. Ready now, lightweight for the vintage, but makes a nice restaurant wine. Good. (20/6/02)

Overall it’s a thumbs up for the Newz Brasserie, with a whole-hearted Winedoctor recommendation, even if their wine list needs a steroid injection. Great food, great service, great venue. It’s a winning combination.

Prices: £25 per head for three courses, wines about £10-40 per bottle, with fairly standard extravagant mark-up. Also the some good Champagnes if you want to flash (or should that be flush?) your cash, with Cristal, Dom Perignon and more available at a price.

The Newz Brasserie

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