La Tasca

Queens Square, Liverpool, L1. Tel: 0151 709 7999

I recently ventured into La Tasca, just part of what is apparently "the fastest growing chain of Spanish restaurants in the UK". In Liverpool La Tasca is situated in the pristine Queens Square complex, home to many new restaurants, bars and clubs.

The decor in La Tasca is bright and busy, and the music is loud. Perfectly suited to a fun, casual night out for a large group like ours, but I wondered what the many nearby couples thought of it as they tried to hear each other speak. The service, although very friendly, was patchy to say the least. For example, we requested glasses for our wine three times before they finally arrived.

The wine list at La Tasca is 100% Spanish, and there are few wines that excite. There are six house wines available, including a white and red from Casa de la Viña, a reliable if unexciting Valedepeñas estate. None of the white wines stood out at all. This section of the list is dominated by white Rioja, the few remaining wines including a Rias Baixas from Pazo de Villarei and a Chardonnay from Alsana y Sarda in Penedès. The reds included wines from Campo Viejo, Marques de Villamagna, Vina Alcorta and Dominio de Montalvo. Most of these estates are controlled by Bodegas y Bebidas, the massive Spanish wine company that also owns Bodegas Age and Marques del Puerto, and they are likely to be reliable if not particularly interesting. I sampled the following wines:

Casa de la Viña Blanco (Valdepeñas) 2000: A pleasant, fruit driven nose, that lulls you into a false sense of security. Then the off-dry palate hits you with an onslaught of harsh acidity and sour fruit. Battery acid finish. I've had my fill of Airen for 2001 (for life?). (14/3/01)

Casa de la Viña Tinto (Valdepeñas) 1999: This is the most drinkable of the three wines. Fresh blackberry fruit on the nose, mirrored on the palate, with sufficient acidity and soft tannins. Lacks body, but has a pleasant flavour profile. (14/3/01)

Campo Viejo Reserva (Rioja) 1995: Fairly light ruby red, with a soft, woody nose. Subtle red fruit and a touch of volatile acidity. Lots more of this on the palate, together with a note of wet wood reminiscent of freshly beached driftwood. Deficient in fruit, soft tannins and a similar texture. Unimpressive. (14/3/01)

Unsurprisingly the food is largely based around tapas, and these are available in set menus with a number of price options. Our choice included a good variety of dishes, ranging widely in style as well as quality. First to arrive were some simple cold tapas, Queso Manchego (Manchego cheese with fresh tomato and olive oil) and Ensalada Verde (a salad of leaves, cucumber, pepper, asparagus, olives and celery), together with Pan Fresco (fresh bread). The first two were quite acceptable - fairly tasty Manchego, and a crisp, refreshing undressed salad. The bread was, quite simply, stale. So much for 'Fresco'.

The next wave of tapas contained a couple of really well executed dishes. First up was Croquetas de Champinones (a blend of mushrooms and potato, breadcrumbed and served with a garlic mayonnaise). These had a good, creamy texture, and the mayonnaise was subtly flavoured. Also very good was Tortilla Espanola (Spanish omelette), which had a melting texture. Calamares Andaluza (deep fried battered squid with garlic mayonnaise) was also good - the squid having a correct texture, and again a well flavoured mayonnaise. At this point a serving of Pan de Ajo (garlic bread) brought us back down to earth - dry and leathery, this was very poor indeed.

A proliferation of meat tapas followed, starting with Costillas de Cerdo (pork ribs in a tangy sauce). This sauce had a superb flavour, but the ribs bordered on being declared a meat-free zone. Chorizo Frito al Vino (Chorizo sausage pan fried in red wine) was good, although the Chorizo itself was more firm and dry than I am used to. A very tasty dish was the Pollo al Chilindron (chicked breast cooked in paprika and white wine sauce with green peppers). The paprika really made this dish, adding a spicy twist to the tender meat. Most unusual was Albondigas a la Jadinera ("our famous meatballs"). These had an unappealing texture and a unique, unidentifiable flavour. I don't think they were popular with anyone. Accompanying these meat dishes was Patatas Bravas (deep fried potatoes in a spicy tomato sauce) and these were very good - crispy potatoes, and a rich and tasty sauce. Champinones al Ajillo (mushrooms sauteed in garlic and olive oil) were unremarkable.

Eschewing any dessert, a quick nightcap sufficed before leaving La Tasca. The food was variable, at times very good, sometimes very poor, but most often simply acceptable. The main weakness is the wine list, which lacks innovation. Spain has plenty of better wines to offer than these, and if necessary I don't think the proprietors should shy away from looking somewhere other than Spain to make it more interesting.

Prices: £12.50 and upwards for a set meal of tapas. Wines range from £10 up to £20 per bottle.